Details on ceiling fluorescent lights and prep before drywall

[thammel]

You guys must have dealt with this...

I'll be installing about 8 8' long fluorescents in my garage. I've installed these before and run wire directly to them - affixed via a romex box clamp. Planning to drywall the ceiling so what's the best way to prep for these lights? I envision boxes in the ceiling and then mounting each light strip directly on top of each box, so the box will be hidden by the light fixture. Is this what you all have done?

Thanks,
Tom

 

[larry4406]

I did not use boxes for my fluorescents. I had "hang wires" stapled to the ceiling joist/rafter where I intended to mount the fixture. I left 16 to 20 inches of wire extend down When hanging sheet rock, cut a small hole in the rock, feed the wire(s) thru. The fixture then has the romex connector to its housing, all terminations and bonding inside the fixture. Screw thru the fixture to attach to the ceiling joist/rafter.

 

[merlin]

I just recently finished 8 fluourescents in mine, and did it just like Larry406.

A lot easier, fewer boxes, connections........

 

[tfi racing]

Unless you are insulating before the lights are installed,I would just leave the loomex coiled tail up above the drywall.Take the knockout closest to where your wire is coiled out,install the fixture,cut with drywall saw then poke the wire and connector through the drywall.This method is a bit easier than wrestling that flimsy tin light fixture to the exact spot where the wire is stuck thru the ceiling.

 

[thammel]

Here's the plan: I will insulate before the lights are hung. First all wiring is done, then insulation, then drywall...after drywall I'll put up the fluorescent lights. I could do what you all recommend except I'm probably going to pay the CL guy who just did some drywall for me to do the garage drywall. I'd be surprised if he will work with wires poking through the drywall - these guys usually work with boxes. We'll see.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[lynchmob723]

I am in the same spot as you. I will leaving one coiled wire from the switch above in the attic, then drywall. then I will mount the lights where I want them, run the coiled wire to the nearest light, then feed all the other lights from above. Then insulate. Not only is is easier electrically, but also much easier to sheetrock because you dont have to cutout for boxes etc. The fixture itslef acts as the electrical box.

 

[larry4406]

Hang wires are a very common way of surface mount fixture rough-ins, under cabinet lights, oven wiring, etc.. If you drywall contractor won't deal with them, I would find a different drywall contractor.

 

[toddah]

I actually went a different route. I mounted and wired duplex outlets for each light and then I wired each light with a rubber coated 14/3 whip and a plug on the end so if I need to service the lights or decide I want to change them out for the next generation of T? lights It's a simple matter of unplugging them and taking them down. I hate working on light fixtures overhead! But then I do tend to do things a little different than most people!
Also anything with a plug on it is of no concern to my electrical inspector so far as building codes are concerned as long as the pigtails does not exceed a given length.

 

[meddac]

I did exactly what Toddah did not so much for the reason of changing out lights but I had a plug in the middle of the room right over my head everywhere there was a light. I just left the whole duplex switched so it was hot when the light was on.

 

[irisservice]

Why use 8footer very inefficient versus T8 4 footers

 

[thammel]

In reality what I will use are 8' long fixtures that are comprised of four 4' long T8's. They work well.

Tom