Vise restoration procedures, techniques, and parts acquisition...

[mjozefow]

Alright, this is meant to be a thread about the general procedures for restoring vises. It is not the only way it is done, but it is the way I feel is most efficient. Perhaps more importantly though, is that people will be able to see how they come apart, so that there will be fewer specific questions in the "General Tool Discussion" forum. A vise can be a great restoration project, due to their relative simplicity. The end result is a beautiful, functional, and rugged tool. This thread is designed to lessen the number of head-scratching moments.

I will organize this into "Types" of vises as I see them. These include the exposed screw vises, the rectangular slide vises, the stamped steel slide vises, and the Wilton's. These are not universal, it is just how they seem to fit into my head.

"Exposed screw" Vises:

I will be using Selkirk's Littlestown vise for this. He has asked me to restore it for him, so I hope he doesn't mind it being used for demonstration purposes.



1. Unscrew the dynamic jaw all the way.



2. There will be either an E-clip, a crimped on ring, or a cotter-pinned washer in a groove on the leadscrew. Remove it. Try to bend things as little as possible, and remove the crimped rings over the rest of the screw, don't pull them straight off.


3. Remove the leadscrew.

4. Remove the swivel base if so equipped.



5. The main nut will either slide right out now, or it may be pinned in. Drive out the pin from below if it is pinned.

6. Remove the jaw inserts. I use an old screwdriver sharpened to a chisel-like point. If they use two screw and a pin like the Shop King pictured, then work the jaws of slowly, concentrating in the center.



7. Blast

8. Polish slide 9. Prime/paint/lube/ reassemble/enjoy!

"Rectangular Slide" Vises:

Perhaps the most common we see in the vise category. These are the workhorses of the industry.

I'll be demonstrating between a Prentiss and a Rock Island. I'll need good Reed pics, so Banjo can bring in some of those.




1. Remove the dynamic jaw assembly. This often is the most difficult step.

1a. Check the rear of the slide for deformation, and file as needed.



Once you are sure it is not binding, you can spread the jaws apart:



Or you can hold the static side static, and hammer the dynamic slide out with a lead/brass/deadblow hammer. A vise helps when restoring vises. So everyone needs at least two. Again, they should separate fairly easily, otherwise, refer to 1a.



Or you can pry/wedge the two apart with 2x material.

If you need more force than this, refer to step 1a. Sometimes they will simply slide apart and none of this is needed.

2. Remove the leadscrew. Some prefer to do this before removing the dynamic jaw. It is your call, sometimes it is nice to be able to pull on the handle A BIT (keep in mind, pulling too hard on the leadscrew is bad, as you will be pulling opposite the direction of greater strength.

The anti-reversal machanisms are usually one of these three.

A front collar, this is an older style favored in most (maybe all?) Parkers and Wiltons. Others too I would imagine. This is A_Pmech's Ridgid 4" swivel vise.



A shaft collar, as this Rock Island has:



A split nut found in most Reeds.


Whatever the mechanism, remove/loosen it and take the leadscrew out.

3. Take the swivel base off if it has one.

This is pretty straight forward. Unscrew everything connected to the swivel base and it should all come right off.



4. Remove the pin holding the main nut by driving it out from the bottom. This pin can be replaced with a roll pin you can get at virtually any hardware store.

(will get pic)

5. Slide the main nut out of it's dovetail.

6. Remove any jaw inserts if they are removable.

7. Blast/prime/paint/reassemble/enjoy

[mjozefow]

"Stamped Steel Slide" Vises:

These vises are an odd cross between an exposed screw and a rectangular slide. Columbian and Desmond-Simplex are the ones that I have seen that use this style of cunstruction. They are considered by many (myself included) to be a medium duty vise (compared to a heavy duty USA/Euro vise, they will outclass a cheap import by a huge margin). I will be using the Columbian 3.5" that Selkirk has asked me to restore for the pics.

The steps for one of these is essentially the same as for an exposed leadscrew vise. The challenge with these is simply getting the crimped anti-reversal ring off of the damn screw.



For this job, I use a screwdriver, wedged into the split in the ring. Then I twist the flat-head driver, and it will give me a bit of room. Then I insert my special tool, and spread it open the rest of the way.



Normal pliers work too, but require more cussing.

I'll show my method for re-crimping when I actually do it tomorrow.

Wilton Vises: To follow within a week or so. Got a nice C-2 for this demo.

[pfbz]

Originally Posted by mjozefow

Wilton Vises: To follow within a week or so. Got a nice C-2 for this demo.

Anxiously awaiting your update on this!

I'm in the process of doing my first vice resto on a 1979 Wilton 4" Machinist 400N.

Also, are you using cup-style wire brushes?



I have one like this, but I'm undecided if I want to do a full repaint, or just a clean up and wax. Afraid this might take off the remaining paint as well.

Thinking of getting a milder wire cup brush like this...

[leg17]

Originally Posted by mjozefow

"Stamped Steel Slide" Vises:

I'll show my method for re-crimping when I actually do it tomorrow.

I have a Rock Island that I 'sprung' the collar.
How do you re-crimp it?

Thanks
Tom

[jcorbin]

Originally Posted by mjozefow

"Stamped Steel Slide" Vises:

These vises are an odd cross between an exposed screw and a rectangular slide. Columbian and Desmond-Simplex are the ones that I have seen that use this style of cunstruction. They are considered by many (myself included) to be a medium duty vise (compared to a heavy duty USA/Euro vise, they will outclass a cheap import by a huge margin). I will be using the Columbian 3.5" that Selkirk has asked me to restore for the pics.

The steps for one of these is essentially the same as for an exposed leadscrew vise. The challenge with these is simply getting the crimped anti-reversal ring off of the damn screw.



For this job, I use a screwdriver, wedged into the split in the ring. Then I twist the flat-head driver, and it will give me a bit of room. Then I insert my special tool, and spread it open the rest of the way.



Normal pliers work too, but require more cussing.

I'll show my method for re-crimping when I actually do it tomorrow.

Wilton Vises: To follow within a week or so. Got a nice C-2 for this demo.

Has anyone come up with any techniques for re-crimping the retention ring shown in post #2? Mjozefow mentioned posting his technique but I didn't see anything. I just finished restoring my Columbian vise and I'm having an awful time re-crimping the ring.

I was thinking about trying to heat up the ring with a torch but I'd love to hear any other techniques from the experts on this board.

Thanks!

[daus300b]

Here's some photos of a Kurt machinist vise I restored:



Diassemble and dump it in a tank of washing soda and use the eletrolytic rust removal technique (it removes the paint too)



Paint it with rustoleum hammertite paint



Reassemble the parts (rebuild kit available through Enco)





Link to the restoration:

http://totravelisbetterthantoarrive....vise-restored/

Daus

[C.BRAXMAIER]

Originally Posted by daus300b

Here's some photos of a Kurt machinist vise I restored:



Diassemble and dump it in a tank of washing soda and use the eletrolytic rust removal technique (it removes the paint too)



Paint it with rustoleum hammertite paint



Reassemble the parts (rebuild kit available through Enco)





Link to the restoration:

http://totravelisbetterthantoarrive....vise-restored/

Daus

WOW, looks great im gonna have to try that nice job..

[zacker01]

Originally Posted by daus300b

Diassemble and dump it in a tank of washing soda and use the eletrolytic rust removal technique (it removes the paint too)





Daus

wow, whats that electrolytic rust removal system? got any plans or instructions on making one??

[cegreen]

Originally Posted by daus300b

Paint it with rustoleum hammertite paint

So Rustoleum and Hammertite are two different brands of hammered finish paint.

That is, there is Rustoleum hammered finish paint, and there is Hammertite hammered finish paint, but there is no such thing as "Rustoleum hammertite paint"

I like the look of the paint on your vise - but which paint (and color) is it?

Thanks.

-Chris

[phy6]

Originally Posted by cegreen

So Rustoleum and Hammertite are two different brands of hammered finish paint.

That is, there is Rustoleum hammered finish paint, and there is Hammertite hammered finish paint, but there is no such thing as "Rustoleum hammertite paint"

I like the look of the paint on your vise - but which paint (and color) is it?

Thanks.

-Chris

I think hammertite is an adhesive.

Hammerite Paint

[Outlawmws]

Originally Posted by jcorbin

Has anyone come up with any techniques for re-crimping the retention ring shown in post #2? Mjozefow mentioned posting his technique but I didn't see anything. I just finished restoring my Columbian vise and I'm having an awful time re-crimping the ring.

I was thinking about trying to heat up the ring with a torch but I'd love to hear any other techniques from the experts on this board.

Thanks!

Late response, Those rings are pretty soft, so heat is not required. Depending on clearance, I used pliers or duckbills to get it started, and used a small chisel on each side as wedges to get opposed pressure if the stronger pliers wouldn't fit; I rotated it and kept at it until I got it seated all the way around.

[coleman10]

Originally Posted by mjozefow

"Stamped Steel Slide" Vises:

These vises are an odd cross between an exposed screw and a rectangular slide. Columbian and Desmond-Simplex are the ones that I have seen that use this style of cunstruction. They are considered by many (myself included) to be a medium duty vise (compared to a heavy duty USA/Euro vise, they will outclass a cheap import by a huge margin). I will be using the Columbian 3.5" that Selkirk has asked me to restore for the pics.

The steps for one of these is essentially the same as for an exposed leadscrew vise. The challenge with these is simply getting the crimped anti-reversal ring off of the damn screw.



For this job, I use a screwdriver, wedged into the split in the ring. Then I twist the flat-head driver, and it will give me a bit of room. Then I insert my special tool, and spread it open the rest of the way.



Normal pliers work too, but require more cussing.

I'll show my method for re-crimping when I actually do it tomorrow.

Wilton Vises: To follow within a week or so. Got a nice C-2 for this demo.

Just got a Columbian D45 M3 from my dad. I estimate it to be roughly 40 years and old and remember it well when I was a kid. I'd love to restore it and hand it down to my son when the time comes. Everything works well and is nice and tight/smooth. Amazing since I know my dad never once lubricated it. It does have a bit of rust on it, unfortunately. I can easily extend the dynamic jaw out all the way so the vice separates into two, but I'm left with the lock ring. The inside of the slide has some rust in it, so I'd like to preserve the inside, too, but I'm fearful of not being able to get the lock ring back on.

I didn't see anywhere in this post where it describes how to reclamp the lock ring.

Is there any other way to clean up the inside of the slide without taking off the lock ring?

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!

[mjozefow]

I hope to list part sources and such here. I have a few leads, but many parts are hard to find.

[mjozefow]

Ok, I actually got around to writing this up. I have a lot more to do. If this helps even one person I will consider it time well spent. Go restore those vises!

[autopts71045]

Again, another great thread for the millions of guys that want to restore, but just need to get their feet wet. They will thank you for your time, knowledge and the simple way you explain and show the steps visually. Show and tell on all restores, on any equipment, I think is alot of what GJ should be about.

[BanjoSavesTheDay]

What brand is that steel slide vise? I've never seen a picture of that style from the bottom. Pretty cool.

[mjozefow]

Originally Posted by BanjoSavesTheDay

What brand is that steel slide vise? I've never seen a picture of that style from the bottom. Pretty cool.

It is a Columbian. Pics of the restored unit will be up soon.

[mjozefow]

Originally Posted by BanjoSavesTheDay

What brand is that steel slide vise? I've never seen a picture of that style from the bottom. Pretty cool.

[reinhardt]

what primer/paint are u using for your vise(s)? i have a mammoth wilton vise, how do i i.d. it? model #, year built, etc.... thanks!

ben

[mjozefow]

Originally Posted by reinhardt

what primer/paint are u using for your vise(s)? i have a mammoth wilton vise, how do i i.d. it? model #, year built, etc.... thanks!

ben

See the link in my sig on vises. Your Wilton will have a number stamped on the bottom of the round slide, in the keyway. Check out the Wilton video in the same article.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAuUioT5IdA

skip to the end

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9xPM...eature=channel


I use Rustoleum self-etching primer. The reasons are twofold. One, it is a good primer. Two, it is in a can that will spray in any direction. It is $1/can more but it is worth it in my book. It dries quickly too. Top coat in 1/2hr.

If I don't sandblast I'll use Rustoleum Stops Rust primer and paint.