DavidB
Well-known member
Nightshift, your restos turned out great! Those jaws look nice too. Can you post another picture showing the entire pedestal?
Vise restoration procedures, techniques, and parts acquisition...
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Nightshift
Well-known member
I found the page where I'd posted my pedistal Wilton before ... here: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1056393&postcount=739
Cheers, Bill
Cheers, Bill
ZRX61
Well-known member
I need 4 lockdown nuts for a couple of Craftsman vises... anyone have a source?
ZRX61
Well-known member
No real hurry, I don't use the 2 vises that require them. Do MacMaster Carr have them?
ZRX61
Well-known member
I just had a look.. $75 each!!!!!!!!!!!
ZRX61
Well-known member
I think I can live without new ones, I actually have 3, they just look a bit tatty.
Mjozefow, I just picked up a D45 Columbian in nice shape, but the handle is bent. I've searched for the answer to what seems a simple question, but can't find it: How do you remove the handle? Are the ball ends treaded on?
Thanks for the help, and all of the great info you and others have posted!
dho
Thanks for the help, and all of the great info you and others have posted!
dho
bczygan
Well-known member
Does anyone know how to disassemble the movable rear jaw on a Parker?
Photos:
Photos:
PCO6
Well-known member
This is timely, not helpful, but timely. I bought 2 Record vices recently; a No. 3 and a No. 8. Both work well but the handles are rusty and 1 is bent. I took the No. 8 (bent handle) into 2 machine shops today. I asked if they could machine a new handle for me. Coincidently both shops had several Record vices so I figured they would at least show some interest. There was none. Both suggested I straighten the handle. One suggested a press and the other suggested a heavy hammer. Between us we felt that the knobs were pressed on. Neither felt it was worth making new handles. To them they were vices that they figured I would just be beating on. Both of these shops were quite good with a variety of machinery that appeared to be in good shape and well maintained. I guess they didn't have much time for what they felt were amateurs.
Attachments
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BanjoSavesTheDay
Well-known member
Bill, now that I've seen pics it looks like if you get that pin out that goes crossways through the vise, the rear jaw should just come straight up. I bet it is almost exactly like this one: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68478. I'm really curious now to see if you can get it. Good luck!
PCO6
Well-known member
That's a good question. I'm not convinced yet that they are pressed on but it seems reasonable and expanding them with heat to take them off would probably work. I think if I can get standard rod and either weld, press or screw on new knobs I can dupliate the look and it should work well. I don't have a lathe so I'll probably have to farm this out. The 2 shops I mentioned above basically felt it wasn't worth doing. Neither would even tell me how they would do it or give me a price quote.
Has anyone else on here replaced a vice handle?
Freeborn John
Well-known member
I vaguely remember reading somewhere that Record forged their handles in one piece, looking at the one on my No 25 that seems to be true.
The handles were carefully designed to bend before the vice broke, if you replaced the handle with one of your own you would lose this handy safety feature...not good.
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crankshaftdan II
Well-known member
They might be pressed or silver soldered on the one end. I have replaced a few with shock absorber shafts-they seem to work well and just purchase a round adapter w/set screw at hardware store and rubber o rings if politically correct is not an issue. Otherwise you might have a problem chasing down the correct stuff to put back to original condition!
bczygan
Well-known member
Kole,
Here are 2 photos with the parts labeled. Both photos have the body of the vise on it's side. The "pin through body" in the second photo (with the round head) is the one I think holds the rotating jaw in. I'm thinking of heating the vise in the oven and driving or pressing the pin out. What do you think?
Bill
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Cezza
Member
Hey mjozefow, great thread, I'm looking at restoring an old woden (made in England) vise I recently got and have picked up plenty of great tips here from you and fellow GJ members.
PCO6
Well-known member
John;
I can see that they could be forged and "bending before breaking" makes good sense. IF I do replace them I would certainly try to duplicate that.
I agree, that's an important safety issue.
Dan;
The machinists I spoke with thought that they might be soldered on too. I'm only considering replacing the handles for "cosmetic" reasons. A shock absorber shaft would be interesting. That would look like chrome
I'm restoring the vices and the handles on both are rust pitted and one is bent. Both vices work well and it's hard to believe the previous owners let the handles get so bad. My guess is that they sat unused in damp conditions.
Thanks,
Stew
I can see that they could be forged and "bending before breaking" makes good sense. IF I do replace them I would certainly try to duplicate that.
I agree, that's an important safety issue.Dan;
The machinists I spoke with thought that they might be soldered on too. I'm only considering replacing the handles for "cosmetic" reasons. A shock absorber shaft would be interesting. That would look like chrome
I'm restoring the vices and the handles on both are rust pitted and one is bent. Both vices work well and it's hard to believe the previous owners let the handles get so bad. My guess is that they sat unused in damp conditions. Thanks,
Stew
BanjoSavesTheDay
Well-known member
I've read that a lot of people have had success with a 1:1 ATF/acetone mixture when trying to free up seized parts. I've never tried it, but I think this would be a great time to. Once you drive the pin out, try rotating the rear jaw so that it looks like it does in the two labeled pictures. Then you could use the corners that stick out to gently tap it upwards.
bczygan
Well-known member
Kole,
Do you think the jaw needs to be in the non rotated position to press out the pin?
Bill
BanjoSavesTheDay
Well-known member
Ehh I would say it probably doesn't have to be, but that's what I'd do.
jjarrell4
Well-known member
Any update on the wilton?
i just stole one and I am looking to refurb
i just stole one and I am looking to refurb
disaster1277
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2010
- Messages
- 14
today i came across a north bros. yankee swivel vise no. 1992 that has been abused i decided to buy it for 10 bucks their is a small crack mounting base plate and the handle to the spindle had apparently had tried to be repaired (bad job) i would like your advise. the vise operates smoothly but does not swivel , any help would be great
I just acquired a parker 63 1/2. Its a beautiful little 3 1/2" vice, small, but i am primarily a goldsmith and my shop is in my living room so it suites my needs well. Everything seems to be in good shape, but it seems like the retaining ring on the lead screw is welded on. Is this common or am i just seeing something wrong? Thanks for your input!
"Stamped Steel Slide" Vises:
I'll show my method for re-crimping when I actually do it tomorrow.
I have a Rock Island that I 'sprung' the collar.
How do you re-crimp it?
Thanks
Tom
widerberg
Well-known member
Hi, Amendel:
Mine is the same way. I'm still trying to decide what to do. I may grind off the weld and try to reuse the ring, or I may tape the area off and leave it in place when I strip and repaint the body of the vise.
Bo
Catalyze
Well-known member
What I have done is to discard the crimped collar and use a set screw retaining collar. I have 2 Prentiss vises that owners in the previous 90 years converted before I got them.
Craig
Craig
bradleykd
Well-known member
I'm about to restore a parker 954 and was wondering what you guys were doing about the end of the lead screw where the handle slides through. I've seen painted and polished, how did they come from the factory? And, are there any parts that arent safe to be sandblasted?
darkk
Well-known member
Great article, I have three of the vises you show here...
Just cleaned up this abused Columbian (504-M2) bench vise. Could barely get the slide out and had to grind a little on it to get it to work smoothly. Apparently a former owner did some pounding on it instead of using the hammer surface. It didn't come with a swivel base and was wondering if it would be possible to find one. I can still use it regardless but the swivel would be handy.
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Lost Road
Well-known member
Great thread! Thanks for the info.
IndyGarage
Well-known member
Just a couple things to add.
I've got a few old vises that I cleaned up after looking at this thread. First, the quickest way to clean one up is a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a 4 inch diameter braided wire brush - the flat one, not the cupped one shown earlier in this thread - the cupped one is wimpy, the flat one strips paint like there's no tomorrow. I've stripped entire machines with one. (P.S - do it outside or with ventilation and wear lung protection - no doubt some of this old stuff has lead paint.)
I find my Jawhorse to be the ideal tool to hold the vise parts for wire brushing.
The other day I cleaned up and repainted an old Parker 5 inch in exactly 2 hours with one. That included stripping off the old red paint with the wire brush; touching up some weld spatter around jaws and on the slide with another grinder and a 120 grit flap wheel - wipe the whole thing down with an acetone rag. Mask it off with frog tape and aluminum foil. I stuff foil inside the stationary jaw to cover up the nut. I tape off 3/8 inch or so on the end of the jaws. Prime with spray on automotive sandable primer - 20 minutes dry. Two coats of Rattle can Rustoleum Satin Dark Red. Anti seize on the thread and that thing looks like a million bucks.
I recommend the Rustoleum Satin Finish can spray over the gloss for any kind of machinery - it has just the right amount of shine to it, but doesn't accentuate any flaws.
Also whenever spraying from a rattle can use a can handle - it makes a huge difference.
I've got a few old vises that I cleaned up after looking at this thread. First, the quickest way to clean one up is a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a 4 inch diameter braided wire brush - the flat one, not the cupped one shown earlier in this thread - the cupped one is wimpy, the flat one strips paint like there's no tomorrow. I've stripped entire machines with one. (P.S - do it outside or with ventilation and wear lung protection - no doubt some of this old stuff has lead paint.)
I find my Jawhorse to be the ideal tool to hold the vise parts for wire brushing.
The other day I cleaned up and repainted an old Parker 5 inch in exactly 2 hours with one. That included stripping off the old red paint with the wire brush; touching up some weld spatter around jaws and on the slide with another grinder and a 120 grit flap wheel - wipe the whole thing down with an acetone rag. Mask it off with frog tape and aluminum foil. I stuff foil inside the stationary jaw to cover up the nut. I tape off 3/8 inch or so on the end of the jaws. Prime with spray on automotive sandable primer - 20 minutes dry. Two coats of Rattle can Rustoleum Satin Dark Red. Anti seize on the thread and that thing looks like a million bucks.
I recommend the Rustoleum Satin Finish can spray over the gloss for any kind of machinery - it has just the right amount of shine to it, but doesn't accentuate any flaws.
Also whenever spraying from a rattle can use a can handle - it makes a huge difference.
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IndyGarage
Well-known member
Just my opinion, but a machinist vise shouldn't have a swivel.
Every heavy shop I've ever been in had solid mounted vises.
I hope that's not mounted on the table crooked like that. Looks like you can't close it all the way without banging the handle into the table.
Conc: Columbian (504-M2) bench vise
It has a couple different mounting positions (due to lack of the swivel base). It opens and closes fine at this angle and allows me to hang some odd shaped pieces.
So this vise never came with a swivel base? Can anyone else confirm this?
It has a couple different mounting positions (due to lack of the swivel base). It opens and closes fine at this angle and allows me to hang some odd shaped pieces.
Pupuhd
Well-known member
Over a month ago I also picked up a Columbian 504 1/2 M2 at a yard sale for less than $4. No rust, worked fine, just used. The 500 series are stationary vises while it sister 600 series come with a swivel base. However my vise and yours has a 5/8"-11 threaded hole at the bottom center. I believe it's so you can add a swivel at a later time.
Yesterday while shopping at my favorite surplus store, on a bottom shelf of used but huge milling vises hiding in the shadows I found a swivel base wrapped in duct tape. Cost $7, came with everything, both nut clamps on either side. Only thing that was missing was the center bolt. Got it home and it was a perfect match for the 504 Columbian vise. Only issue was that the cneter hole for the swivel base has a 1/2" hole.
So just measure the diameter for your vise and see if you can find somewhere a matching swivel base. It should work fine. In my opinion, having a swivel base makes it more verstile and useful, unless you are a machine shop doing tons of and heavy work. For the average joe-blow like us, a swivel base is the way to go. Good Luck.
BTW: If anyone is interested, I can take photos and post here of the swivel base I got so you can compare it to what ever you find. Different manufactures had different methods to marry the swivel base to the bottom of the vise, so it would be wise to check if it'll be compatible with yours.
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http://www.viseparts.com/505_605_M3_Machinist_Vise_Repair_Parts_s/26.htm
I'm guessing that screw fit alot of years. Also the center bushing.
I'm guessing that screw fit alot of years. Also the center bushing.