asp
Well-known member
I'd call that a dimple die, not a flare... Looks like you made it out of aluminum. What sort of material are you stamping? I don't think I'd attempt anything very thick. It would wear out fast. Looks good though.
- Thread starter Ryan
- Start date
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Darn I've been calling em Flaring tools for years
Yes they are Alu.6061T-6.The part in this case is .065 6061 T-4.I only had four holes to(dimple).As odd as it sounds when made correctly there is almost 0 friction and you could (dimple).065 cold rolled sheet over n over.I have some more common sized ones that I made 15 years ago that look almost as good as when I first made them.
Yes they are Alu.6061T-6.The part in this case is .065 6061 T-4.I only had four holes to(dimple).As odd as it sounds when made correctly there is almost 0 friction and you could (dimple).065 cold rolled sheet over n over.I have some more common sized ones that I made 15 years ago that look almost as good as when I first made them.
asp
Well-known member
Cool. I'm glad they've worked out so well for you. The offroad wheeling community uses those quite a lot when fabricating sheet metal parts. Saves weight and adds stiffness. I guess I'm used to seeing thicker stuff get dimpeld. I guess it all boils down to what you use them for. A few of my friends have dimple dies and they're all heat treated; my friend tested his at 46 RHC. The same friend used his dies to dimple 11ga sheet steel in his 20T press.
No doubt you are saving yourself a significant amount of money by making your own though. Check this out: http://www.polyperformance.com/rally/JMR-Dimple-Die-Sets-p-491.html
No doubt you are saving yourself a significant amount of money by making your own though. Check this out: http://www.polyperformance.com/rally/JMR-Dimple-Die-Sets-p-491.html
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Heavy Metal Doctor
Well-known member
A couple of recent additions:
Spreader frame to lift with limited overhead room:
in use:
And now that they are unloaded i need a giant furniture dolly to roll em inside the shop:
Spreader frame to lift with limited overhead room:
in use:
And now that they are unloaded i need a giant furniture dolly to roll em inside the shop:
This is a crankshaft holding tool I made for Subaru engines. It lets me take the crank bolt loose without having to use an impact so I can leave the radiator in while doing a timing belt.
a buddy helped me setup gears in an axle and had somethign VERY similar for holding the pinion in place, while tightening the pinion nut down enough to compress the crush sleve.
asp
Well-known member
haha, my friends and i use a monkey wrench on the yoke for that
I needed this special wrench to put together a rifle I was building and there was no way that I was going to shell out the $300 for the factory one (that isn't sold to civilians in the first place) So I said screw it and made my own.
Solid model
Rapid prototype
Waterjet the pieces out
Test fit on the nut
Clamp them
weld them together
Parkerize the steel
Torque the nut
All assembled
Test Fire
Solid model
Rapid prototype
Waterjet the pieces out
Test fit on the nut
Clamp them
weld them together
Parkerize the steel
Torque the nut
All assembled
Test Fire
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
WoooH,too cool!
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Very cool unclemoak! What alloy did you use for the wrench?
Some mild steel scrap that was laying around the shop. I was going to go all out and CNC or sinker EDM one, but this one worked well enough, so I got lazy and didn't pursue it further.
Clarifixer
Well-known member
A lot of BIG tools shown on this thread. Here's a little one. Needless to say, musical instrument tools appeal to a very small audience of offbeat folks, but what the heck? The black wrinkle finish fixtures for centering the clarinet joint between centers and the little support jack are the items of interest. There are interchangeable plugs for other instruments that fit into the dividing head as well.
Attachments
lol, seems that way huh? unclemoak, tell us more about your SBR above. After all, it IS a "home made tool" so it fits in this thread.I swear Arfcom follows me wherever I go.
lol, seems that way huh? unclemoak, tell us more about your SBR above. After all, it IS a "home made tool" so it fits in this thread.
Here's the parts list:
Magpul UBR
Magpul MOE pistol grip
Magul Aluminum trigger guard
Denny's Super Duty BCG
Geissele SSA Trigger
Noveske Rifleworks 12.5" Crusader barrel in 5.56
Knights Armament URX II <-- this is what required the special wrench
Knights Armament BUIS
Knights Armament Triple Tap muzzle break
Knights Armament Hand stop
Larue Tactical upper receiver
Spike's Lower Receiver
Rock River Arms lower parts kit
Aimpoint M4s w/ Larue Mount
I really didn't have a particular purpose in mind when I built it other than being a high end rifle. I'm honestly pretty surprised at how accurate it is, even when shooting mil-spec bulk ammo. I can get hits on man-sized steel out to 500yds even with the red dot.
Here's another little quasi tool I made a while ago to help bend sections of rebar to make clay pigeon holders.
Started with a block of steel
after putting some grooves and set screws in it
There's another set screw in the bottom to adjust the height of the rebar, so the legs are both the same size.
heating and bending the rebar
a finished stand that is used to put stationary clay pigeons on to practice for action shotgun shooting matches.
Started with a block of steel
after putting some grooves and set screws in it
There's another set screw in the bottom to adjust the height of the rebar, so the legs are both the same size.
heating and bending the rebar
a finished stand that is used to put stationary clay pigeons on to practice for action shotgun shooting matches.
Very, VERY nice build but DAYUM, a $500 handguard that requires a $260 wrench to install? That's too rich for me.
Have you thought about making those special wrenches for sale? I bet there are folks who would buy 'em.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
My Rube Goldbirdish Mandrel bender.Powered by my 10hp iron worker coupled to a 25Ton hydraulic cylinder.Over the years I have built dies from 5/8 thru to 2 1/2 in.dia.The last picture is a set of cloned High Tech stainless Formula ford headers using bends off of this thing.Primitive but works quite well.
Attachments
scott37300
Well-known member
Nastyzen that is just amazing!
I starting doing some research on building a mandrel bender last year. Wanted to build a tube bender and figured might as well go all out. I don't have a lathe or a mill so it would be a challange to say the least. My thought was to use an electric motor and gear boxes to get the torque needed and the final drive speed way down. It is still on the list of things to build but on hold for now, started building a rim clamp for changing tires and a pneumatic strut compressor. Finished the strut compressor but still need to finish the rim clamp.
Any details or advice you might be able to share about your build would be great. I really like to design/build my own things like this, I always go big but I learn so much along the way.
Once again, amazing!
I starting doing some research on building a mandrel bender last year. Wanted to build a tube bender and figured might as well go all out. I don't have a lathe or a mill so it would be a challange to say the least. My thought was to use an electric motor and gear boxes to get the torque needed and the final drive speed way down. It is still on the list of things to build but on hold for now, started building a rim clamp for changing tires and a pneumatic strut compressor. Finished the strut compressor but still need to finish the rim clamp.
Any details or advice you might be able to share about your build would be great. I really like to design/build my own things like this, I always go big but I learn so much along the way.
Once again, amazing!
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Nastyzen that is just amazing!
Gee thank's Scott,it is amazing that it works.What would you like to know about this contraption?
Oh and sorry Rube I misspelled your nameI meant Golburgish. lol
RTrac1
Member
made this wrench from some cheap HF tools for adjusting the valves on a suzuki 1.6L 16v engine. I needed the offset of a socket for clearance, but it needed an open end so you can hold the valve adjuster in place with a screwdriver while you tighten the jam nut.
scott37300
Well-known member
Nastyzen that is just amazing!
Gee thank's Scott,it is amazing that it works.What would you like to know about this contraption?
Oh and sorry Rube I misspelled your name
Sorry I didn't see your reply before, your work is truely amazing.
I see you use a rack and pinion set up, I was thinking of using one or two 60:1 gear reduction boxes I have combined with gear and chain reduction to drive mine with a 1 HP motor. I also have a green lee 555 conduit bender I bought for cheap that I was thinking of using as my drive, combined with some additional reduction to get the torque I would need.
But any info you can provide on how it's all put together around the business end would be great. The frame, bearings, how the dies and clamp dies work would be much appreciated! Basically how everything works on the business end. Do you use a wiper die at all? And is your mandrel power operated to remove it?
Thanks
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=975&pictureid=7935
Made this flycutter using a boring bar.
Made this flycutter using a boring bar.
kbeitz
Well-known member
I'm wanting to build an homemade ironworker... I think it will be a good challenge...
scott37300
Well-known member
I would love to see a thread about this! I like seeing homemade tools, especially the bigger mechanical ones. Two years ago I built a pneumatic strut spring compressor and I also starter to build a rim clamp tire changer.
I don't know how much experience you have with hydraulics, bearings, and other parts of an iron worker. I didn't have to much experience with pneumatics and different bearings, I had a pretty good knowledge of how they work and had used them but when I started trying to design and put things together I had to make a lot of changes and trial and error with different parts. Ended up buying lots of parts that I ended up changing out for others. Not a "waste" of money but it did add to the overall costs of the build. If I totalled up all the parts and material to make my rim clamp it would be around 500 bucks, now this includes the costs of other parts I ended up not using. So for a couple hundred dollars more I could have just bought a rim clamp that has more features than mine. But I enjoy making my own machines and the knowledge I gained was well worth the price I paid in materials. One of the biggest hurdles was doing this without a mill or lathe. The would have been very nice.
My next project I want to build is a mandrel bender that is driven by electric motor with gear reduction instead of the more common hydralic driveen ones. Mainly because I have 3 extra 60:1 gear reduction boxes laying around and many other parts that I have bought for my last projects that I ended up not using. So I shouldn't need to much besides the metal, but I also said that about my last projects! I figure a mandrel bender is several thousand dollars so I can have a higher budget to play with and still build cheaper than buying. My spring compressor came in around 150-200 bucks after all was said and done, the model I was using as a plan isn't sold in the US but converting it's euro price it was around 1100 bucks.
Guess my point is that my bigger projects that I thought I could build for far less than buying ended up costing more than what I thought. But well worth the price for the knowledge I gained threw the experiences!
eyeboltman
Well-known member
Thanks now I have to make some too !!!
BCCHOPIT
New member
My buddy needed a 3" socket for his tractor
My buddy needed a 3" socket for his tractor
I like that a lot, looks like the weld placement took care of any hardening and tempering that it could need. Pretty welds too.....
scott37300
Well-known member
My buddy needed a 3" socket for his tractor
Looks nice, nice welding also!
How did you make the hex part?
I'm gonna guess a CNC plasma/waterjet/laser table. But there are a lot of other ways it could be done.
BCCHOPIT
New member
thanks Guys
the hex was done by laser
2 pcs 3/8 thick welded
the hex was done by laser
2 pcs 3/8 thick welded
Ditchdigger
Well-known member
A few older simple pieces
A valve spring compressor
A few fender rollers
This one was based on a VW jack
This tool was made to pull dents out of wheels
A valve spring compressor
A few fender rollers
This one was based on a VW jack
This tool was made to pull dents out of wheels
I needed this special wrench to put together a rifle I was building and there was no way that I was going to shell out the $300 for the factory one (that isn't sold to civilians in the first place) So I said screw it and made my own.
Solid model
Rapid prototype
Waterjet the pieces out
Test fit on the nut
Clamp them
weld them together
Parkerize the steel
Torque the nut
All assembled
Test Fire
I've been working on machining a little more refined version of the wrench.
Here's the aluminum prototype I made yesterday:
Love it! Nice welding, too...
Alchymist
Well-known member
Got one like it, only with mine the screwdriver shaft is brazed into a 1/4 inch socket.
