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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 323
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Just wondering if anyone has it or knows alittle about how to control it.
I understand radiant and the systems very well, Im not fimilair with snow melt systems . How do you control it, only thing I can think of is some kind of timer that you can manually adjust and turn on when there is inclimate weather. Obviously Id only want to run it if it was snowing out not by temp. Reason I ask is I have a small driveway, And ill need to add another half when I build my 2 car in august. Im going to get a price on a concrette driveway to compare, and if its reasonable Im going to drop in some radiant tubbing and heat exchanger . Since my garage will have radiant aswell . Last edited by maxspeed96ct; 06-21-2012 at 07:01 AM. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 1,078
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I know a very little. I was checking out one a couple of weeks ago at a new building where they were using it to keep the sidewalks free of ice. This was at a business, and I think the way they justfiy the cost is: If it prevents 1 broken hip that we get sued over, it will pay for itself.
I think that's the only way you can justify it. It would be expensive to operate. I guess if you figure it could save you from having a heart attack shoveling snow...then maybe it makes sense? The system I looked at had return lines buried about 6 inches deep in the landscaping. It was all glycol out under the sidewalk....so it uses some sort of heat exchanger. Phil |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Slate River, ON
Posts: 2,472
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I do not have it yet but I intend on running my shop system into the driveway once I get it done in concrete.
I am going to set mine up on a switched valve so that I can turn it on once I plow the driveway or if we get an ice storm. That would be the only time I would turn it on and not necessarily after every time I plow. Just when it gets built up. If have seen this type of system in action and it works great and pretty fast. In the winter it is dry enough that as it melts, it evaporates. I would not use it as an alternative to shoveling or plowing as that would get expensive fast.
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"Success is when you reach a point in your life when you don't feel the need to go back and change things." Johnny S. www.LauraMyersPhotography.com |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: N CA
Posts: 639
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Not in the driveway, but I did radiant in my sidewalks back in MA. Lot of elevation change, steps, etc. I ran it as a manual system which worked out fine for my wife and me. I'd suggest you go to Rehau.com and look at their snow melt design manual. Plenty to digest. I figure that it cost me about $50 per yr to run, but when we had a 3' storm and I'd look out the window in the morning and the snow would be deep and the sidewalk dry...well, worth all of it. If I missed the timing and the system ended up chasing the snow/ice, I'd leave it on and it would catch up. Due to the lay-out of the sidewalk, again, the absence of ice was the biggest deal for us.
Snow melt is an ideal application for solar. Low temp give sky high collector efficiencies. When in the solar business I used to use 1.68 gal/sq ft of collector. Also, people will frequently not do the whole driveway but just the skirt in front of the garage. That too is an option. You decide how long that skirt is. For system controllers check out Tekmar. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Grass Range, MT
Posts: 129
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My radiant guy likes using Tekmar controls with a sensor in the concrete for people that want it automatic.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 323
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Sounds good guys , Im still doing research trying to decide if I want to run glycol in my garage slab or not .
If I don't run glycol in the garage slab I will definatly install a seprate heat exchanger with glycol in the driveway part if I do go ahead with the project. Going to look further into manual timers and switches, I dont think im ready to get to pay the $$ for a fancy automatic systems. Id like to find some type of timer that I can set to run on/off for 15 minute intervals for lets say a 12hr period. That way I can set it at the begining of the storm, somewhat save on not having to run the system through the entire storm. And it wil lalso prevent the slab from over heating. any input on that ? |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Western NY
Posts: 1,157
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I was facility director at a public school that had two ice melt systems that circulated glycol. They work well and do not consume a lot of energy, because the surface is kept just above freezing and our area gets cold, but not excessively cold for long periods. You can get a controller that will idle the system when it is not snowing, allowing for warming faster when snow starts. There are also snow sensors available. The school used a sophisticated computer controlled system (tied into our overall energy management system) so outdoor temps were monitored, along with surface temp, boiler water temp, etc.
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Why a cool garage? Chicks dig 'em. Alcohol may intensify the effect. As John Belushi said in Animal House, "I suggest you drink and drink heavily." |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,151
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40 years ago I knew a guy that bought a show home in a subdivision. He had outrageous electric bills and had electricians and the utility company and they didn't find anything wrong. This was in south Georgia and this went on for about two years till one day in the winter it snowed. They only thing not covered with 2" snow was his driveway and sidewalks. Snow was hitting the concrete and hissing like on a hot stove. He had electric heaters in the concrete on for over two years and didn't know it. They do work but are expensive if you had to run them all the time.
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#9 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 323
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Greentown, IN
Posts: 347
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 527
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Yes, I installed electric driveway heat in my last house. The website was deltatherm an I used their MI cable. This was a pita job. It was not cheap either but the driveway aimed straight at the house and the house was at the bottom of the hill. It was expensive to operate but I expected to use it only a few days to few weeks of the year. I installed it under the replacement asphalt driveway. I ran a lot of conduit, had an extra 200 amps service brought to the house and had timers and water and temperature sensors to control the system. It worked quite well! This way I didn't have to install a boiler, etc.
Tom |
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 323
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 1,078
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Phil |
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#14 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
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Actually in this scenario, electric resistance heat is not more expensive to use, gas or any hydronic system is more expensive - see this calculator to compare.
http://www.tycothermal.com/design-to...Estimator.aspx There are many systems on the market from low voltage to line voltage, what really matters with cost of operation is if it is designed to ASHRAE standards or not. Many system are over designed such as the Delta Therm system mentioned before. Certain regions require certain heat some more some less and unless you use those standards you are either not providing enough heat or you are wasting energy. Activation is key with any snow melt system, using a temp/moisture sensor so the system activates fast and eliminating catch up mode is key to efficiency with any system. The main difference towards operating cost with hydronic and electric is: electric systems are either on or off while hydronic systems idle idle idle at low capacity until a storm which = waste of energy$$$$. I know heatizon designs strictly to ASHRAE standards, not sure about the othters. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 6,632
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The Tyco website referenced above has some good information on sizing and calculations for driveway and sidewalk heating. They also have a lot of info on heat tracing for pipes and rain gutters.
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Franklin, MA
Posts: 155
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I was considering when we were having the driveway replaced. Decided not to in the end.
Here is a thread with some info.. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=88452 |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Toronto Ontario Canada
Posts: 137
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We have, or had an electric radiant heat in our 40 year old down slope drive. I say had because the city repaved our street and removed & replaced 5' of our drive nearest the street and in the process cut all the radiant lines and was unable to repair the system.
Many others in the neighborhood have radiant snow melt in their drives or walkways. |
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 323
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 323
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Mines about 1/4 the lenght of yours. But im still on the fence on what I want to do. Going to wait and see how the garage build goes first .... |
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#20 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hiawatha, IA
Posts: 21
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Interesting stuff - with these systems, I'm wondering how the concrete holds up to the changes in temperature. Nobody has mentioned increased tendency to crack/heave, and some of these "thawing systems" have apparently been installed a long time. Still, I'm curious if there's any special preparation *under* the concrete, or specific concrete mix, or.....?
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Walt |
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