How do you torque?

[sdguy55]

http://www.machinetoolhelp.com/Repai...que-chart.html
there it is for ya. It may not be amazingly accurate but it hasnt failed me yet. I compared the specs for CAT bolts (since thats what i primarily work on) and it was within 10 or so lbs (which was in the 10-15 lbs variance that they list in their manuals)

[metaleltr]

Thanks

[jetmech09]

Here is another good reference for torque, along with a standard torque table. It's a pdf excerpt from 14 CFR 43.13 1b/2b.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...EAtJkgs2s_VaSA

[greasemonkey44]

......i just look up and follow manufacturers procedures for torque
they tell you the pattern, the steps, what to lube the threads with, what angle you need added
if more people followed the directions they would save themselves alot of work

[CJKaz]

Read up, manufacturer of equipment used by auto, aerospace industry.

http://www.mountztorque.com/learning-center

[buening]

I may have been living under a rock, but this is the first I've ever heard of someone dividing the torque spec up, i.e. 3 steps of 25 ft-lbs to get to 75 ft-lbs. If a spec calls for 75 ft-lbs I slowly apply the torque to the particular bolt until I get to 75 ft-lbs. None of my old Ford service manuals mention using multiple torque steps other than the "pattern" of bolts and when to use lube. Does anyone else divide the torque up like that? I would expect it to be undertorqued.

[gotwheels]

Do Automotive Techs on this site install and torque fasteners with "clean/dry" threads or with "clean/wet" (lube, antiseize, etc) threads?

If you apply antiseize/lube to the fastener, do you reduce the fastener torque by a 20-30% value?

This assumes one is torquing the fastener to the Manufacturer's suggested value. I, always, feel a need to lube a steel fastener in an aluminum housing to prevent galling. sometimes I am reluctant to reduce the torque value by 20-30%, especially in a critical service. I, typically, have not found manufacturers to address torquing and lubed threads. Thanks.

[jetmech09]

Always a different torque wet. Some manuals do call out for stepped torque, I see it all the time. If you have 20 or so bolts all going to 75 ft-lbs, it would be very easy to warp an aluminum part.

[jrlp]

Always reduce torque if using anti-seize or any type of thread lubricant. If it's critical, you're over torqueing them by going full torque. I step-up torque on cylinder heads, water pumps, front covers on Cummins, pretty much any large surface area part. I always break it loose, then go to the next step.

So, all 7 to 25ft/lb. Then break loose #1 and torque to 50, break loose the next.. 50.. Once done, next step, break loose -> 75. Doing headstuds on Cummins is a pain, and I do a set at least once a month (usually upgraded ones, arp 425 or 625's, including bottom tapping) and by the time you're 50% done, you wish you were done. The torque is stepped on every fastener...

[ncautoshop]

Originally Posted by jrlp

Always reduce torque if using anti-seize or any type of thread lubricant. If it's critical, you're over torqueing them by going full torque. I step-up torque on cylinder heads, water pumps, front covers on Cummins, pretty much any large surface area part. I always break it loose, then go to the next step.

So, all 7 to 25ft/lb. Then break loose #1 and torque to 50, break loose the next.. 50.. Once done, next step, break loose -> 75. Doing headstuds on Cummins is a pain, and I do a set at least once a month (usually upgraded ones, arp 425 or 625's, including bottom tapping) and by the time you're 50% done, you wish you were done. The torque is stepped on every fastener...

Then add in the retorques on a 12v lol. By the time your done frustration isn't even able to describe the mood.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[sdguy55]

Originally Posted by jrlp

Always reduce torque if using anti-seize or any type of thread lubricant. If it's critical, you're over torqueing them by going full torque. I step-up torque on cylinder heads, water pumps, front covers on Cummins, pretty much any large surface area part. I always break it loose, then go to the next step.

So, all 7 to 25ft/lb. Then break loose #1 and torque to 50, break loose the next.. 50.. Once done, next step, break loose -> 75. Doing headstuds on Cummins is a pain, and I do a set at least once a month (usually upgraded ones, arp 425 or 625's, including bottom tapping) and by the time you're 50% done, you wish you were done. The torque is stepped on every fastener...

Wow thats dumb. Im so glad i dont work on cummins. The only thing thats a PIA so far on CATs is the torque turn on main caps. (effin TIGHT!) although i had to do an injector swap on a 3406E today and that was alot more work than i had anticipated.

[jrlp]

Originally Posted by ncautoshop

Then add in the retorques on a 12v lol. By the time your done frustration isn't even able to describe the mood.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Exactly! I did my 12v about 3 years ago.. sigh. I'm just waiting for a lull in work to throw some 625's on my 6.7.. not looking forward to it... at all..

[ncautoshop]

We do atleast one set of studs in a 12v a month, by the time ringed customers come back we can usually get a half turn from your initial mark. Ill say if you don't retorque a ringed head it will blow.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2