2 car garage heating opinions???

Steve91T · Nov 8, 2012

Hey guys. I've been reading for a couple of days and I'm about to give up there are so many options, many too expensive for me. First of all, here's my garage. 20x20 insulated attached garage. Please excuse the mess. I'm in the process of organizing.

Space is tight, but I'm thinking of mounting something above the breaker panel. Now, Charlotte, NC isn't exactly bad as far as winters go, but I hate working in a cold garage. I have a couple of Lowes $20 space heaters that are OK if they are right next to me, but as soon as I move away, I'm cold again. I don't have much money to spend, but would love something to take the chill out of the air.

I really think some sort of wall or ceiling mounted heater with a blower would be perfect. I love the idea of waste oil heat. That Camaro is a road race car. I'm going to have a ton of used synthetic oil, transmission fluid, and brake fluid. That's a lot of wasted fuel to just throw away. Is there any way to have a ceiling mounted heater that burns waste oil?

I assume that isn't an option. What is my other options? Floor space is really tight. I don't want a propane heater to deal with. The water heater is gas, so I do have natural gas in the garage. Would this be more economical than electric?

I just want something to keep it comfortable during the winter. I also don't want to go broke running it.

Thanks guys.
Steve

JohnK007 · Nov 8, 2012

Your garage size and climate would be a perfect place for a 5000 watt Fahrenheat (or similar brand) electric heater. It comes with a blower. The fact that the panel is right there would make installation a snap. 5K watt puts out around 17,000 BTUs. This would be enough to make things toasty. Electric typically costs more to run than gas but unit cost and straight forward installation would offset this. No flue, no chimney, no gas lines. An electric heater like I described runs about $220.

NUTTSGT · Nov 8, 2012

I think the biggest problem you will have is that other car. Bringing it in from the cold is going to sap alot of the heat you're trying to build in there. The only way to overcome it would be to get the concrete warm and keep it warm.

Since you have NG available, some guys will mount a ventless heater on the wall.

Travisnd · Nov 8, 2012

Nice maro!

Steve91T · Nov 8, 2012

That electric heater looks good, but I really want to use NG if I can being that the gas line is right there.

What do you guys think of this guy?

http://www.qcsupply.com/mr-heater-ventless-gas-heater-20000-30000-btu.html

Steve91T · Nov 8, 2012

NUTTSGT said:
I think the biggest problem you will have is that other car. Bringing it in from the cold is going to sap alot of the heat you're trying to build in there. The only way to overcome it would be to get the concrete warm and keep it warm.

Since you have NG available, some guys will mount a ventless heater on the wall.

Yeah, I know that'll be a problem, but winters are pretty mild. I think I'd use it mostly when my wife's car is outside, garage door closed, and it's starts to get cold as the sun goes down. Or if it is one if those those days that never gets out of the 30's, run the heater an hour before I go out there and make it comfortable. It's not like I'm trying to get a garage to 70 degrees when it's -30 outside. But that's why I'm asking you guys for help.

Travisnd said:
Nice maro!

Thanks! I used to live in Virginia Beach a few years ago. I miss the beach.

fury9 · Nov 8, 2012

Mr heaters are pretty nice, heats my 500sqft garage easily,(45k unit) I found mine on CL, If you are patient and look a lot you will find a heater.

58Yeoman · Nov 9, 2012

Bite the bullet and go with a Mr. Heater style furnace on NG. DO NOT use a ventless heater, you will regret it (don't ask how I know). If you don't want to go electric, go vented.

xrdad · Nov 9, 2012

Had a similar issue with my shop... especially the $$ part :lol_hitti

Ended up install a gas fireplace on the wall!
Small NG fireplaces are cheap (new home owners often upgrade the builder special) and the venting couldn't be any cheaper or easier.

I didn't use a blower, so it has no electricity to it... just a gas line.
No moving parts, little maintenance and super efficient. It's on all winter, keeping the shop at 65F (my preferred working temp). The floor and walls are warm, so even opening a door to get the car in doesn't cool the space off very long.

Look into it and you'll see what I mean... :3gears:

disclaimer: you need to look at insulation/vapor barriers/codes/etc... Mine passed all because I wanted it inspected. I did all the work myself and it was super easy. The NG guy checked for leaks and set up. :thumbup:

Interex · Nov 9, 2012

I run a 5000W Dayton G73/Fahrenheat FUH54 in my 2 car garage and it's perfect. Brings the garage up from freezing temperatures outside to a comfortable 70 degrees in good time.

Someone else's install: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124657

Steve91T · Nov 9, 2012

So what's wrong with the ventless NG 30,000 BTU heater?

It's cheap, easy instillation, and cheap to install.

Is it that it doesn't put out enough heat? The ventless heater puts out nearly double the BTU's that the 5000 watt heater that was recommended. That electric heater is more expensive, costs more to operate, and puts put half the heat.

The vented requires me to cut holes in the house. I really don't want to do that.

Keep the opinions coming. I'd love to order something tonight.

Thanks again,
Steve

58Yeoman · Nov 9, 2012

Ventless will put a lot of moisture in the air, and if you don't have outside ventilation, the air inside can get pretty bad, even bad enough to shut off the stove with its' CO detector. Any cold metal will have condensation running off it, which could cause rust. I used one in a 28x28 insulated garage, but sold it when I moved. The new shop is 24x40 with a vented Mr. Heater...just haven't had the chance to use it yet.

pfarber · Nov 9, 2012

I don't think 'heating the concrete' is a viable option. When a guy is on a budget, ripping up, installing radiant heat, pouring a slab, then the heaters to heat it is NOT a viable option.

It doesn't look like the garage door is insulated. That would help, also put in a weather strip at the bottom and seal up the sides. You already said the garage is attached and insulated... so that will limit your options.

My first choice would be IR via NG. It warms surfaces, not the air. After that you are left with electric. A 5000-7000watt heater would most likely be the best size. I don't think unvented is a good option, not because of condensation (you can simply leave the door to the house open) but you really don't want to use indoor air for combustion... use outside air... so you might as well vent. It is more expensive to vent, though.

Seeing that you have little space below the 6 foot mark, you are going to have to hang something. An IR tube or electric blower above the far wall (centered) on a pivot so you can aim it seems like the easiest and lowest cost way to go.

Steve91T · Nov 9, 2012

What's wrong with using inside air for combustion?

The reviews are full of people using them in basements and rec rooms and they love it.

I'm afraid the IR heater will only feel hot if I'm directly under it. I could be wrong though.

Steve91T · Nov 9, 2012

I just read more opinions on ventless NG heaters. Some people say they couldn't stand the moisture, some said they didn't notice much at all. It seems people had problems when they heated an ice cold garage. But people who use it to just take the chill out if the air, or those who let it maintain had better luck.

Let me put it this way, if I have to go ventless, I probably won't be able to afford it. I hate the idea of an electric heater being that its more expensive to run.

I will most likely only use the heater 1-2 days a week. I travel a lot and I'm not home more than a couple of days a week. You guys really think I'm going to hate the $220 ventless that much?

creativecars · Nov 9, 2012

Steve91T said:
I just read more opinions on ventless NG heaters. Some people say they couldn't stand the moisture, some said they didn't notice much at all. It seems people had problems when they heated an ice cold garage. But people who use it to just take the chill out if the air, or those who let it maintain had better luck.

Let me put it this way, if I have to go ventless, I probably won't be able to afford it. I hate the idea of an electric heater being that its more expensive to run.

I will most likely only use the heater 1-2 days a week. I travel a lot and I'm not home more than a couple of days a week. You guys really think I'm going to hate the $220 ventless that much?

I built mine with a circulating blower and kick it on when I want a warmer working environment. When it gets up to a better temp I open the door into the house to equalize temps, unless I am doing something with fumes or really noisy. I do not have moisture problems (from the ventless), maybe because I am mixing the ventless and furnace heat. This works for me and no gas odors from the ventless. I like it.

Steve91T · Nov 10, 2012

That's good to know. Thank you.

Steve91T · Nov 10, 2012

Is waste oil completely out of the question? I know it would have a higher initial cost, but then free operational cost.

Kevin54 · Nov 10, 2012

I had a ventless heater in my garage and the best thing I did was give it away. I wouldn't recommend one of them to anyone.

Jackfre · Nov 10, 2012

You have a nice garage. The best option in my opinion is the Rinnai EX22C for your situation, but it is pricey. That said, you get what you pay for. Direct vent and you have to only drill a 3" hole in the wall. I'd put it on the left side of the garage next to the door. That way it blows its warm air across the face of the garage doors. That has worked out well for me.

Vent free heaters are fine but you need to understand how they work. You will have a cold garage and all cold surfaces. You may well get condensation on surfaces. When you vent into the living space you are introducing moisture from the combustion process. There is approx 1.1 gallons of moisture entrained in the flue gas by-products per gallon of propane, fuel oil or NG burned. Your 30kbtu heater will put out a bit more than a pint per hr of operation. When it is really cold the moisture is not as much of a problem because the air is so dry. Cold air cannot hold moisture.

To my mind, the biggest problems using a vent free heater in a garage is the odors. First I have to say that I am sensitive to the by-products of combustion. If you have that heater running in your garage, within seconds of entering the space I get hit right in the back of the throat with it. Most people aren't sensitive to it. Check with your wife, because if she is and you aren't....well :eyecrazy:

If you paint in the garage, refinish furniture, spray WD-40 or heaven forbid, carb cleaner you will have the door open. Anything that is airborne will go through the heater and whatever it smelled like going in, it will smell worse coming out, guaranteed.

A direct vent heater is your best option. That said, there are millions of VF heaters operating especially across the south and as you point out. Some people love them. If you go that way, please post back and let us know how it works out for you.

Oh, one other thing. Infra-reds are the best VF's. They burn hottest down in the meniscus of the plaque, giving a cleaner burn than the blue-flame heaters. YOU MUST KEEP THE PLAQUES CLEAN. Compressed air is best but be careful. When Rinnai was selling IR's and I represented them we used to tell people to clean the plaque with 100# of air. You hit most others with 50# and you will blow the burner away. If the plaques are not kept clean it will drive you out of the place with the odor. Happy Heating!

Jackfre · Nov 10, 2012

Steve91T said:
Is waste oil completely out of the question? I know it would have a higher initial cost, but then free operational cost.

Well, let's see. You'd have to get rid of one of the cars as you will need a storage tank and check out the size of the "used oil burners". They are built to heat shops and other areas and are quite large for your situation. As well, how much oil do you have? Some people don't mind going and collecting used oil from others, but I think it would be kind of a pain. You want to work in the garage on the projects you want to work on. Do you want to be filtering oil?

BTW, your other best option is a 12kbtu mini-split heat pump.

Steve91T · Nov 10, 2012

My truck alone holds 15 quarts of oil, my race car 6. I'll be going through a ton of oil with the race car. That's the only reason I wanted to at least entertain it. I wasn't sure if there was an option for a small one with an exterior tank. I know, a lot more work, just had to ask in case there was something out there.

Thanks for the explanation about natural gas. That really helps.

Maybe I should just get that 5000 watt electric heater.

nehog · Nov 10, 2012

Steve91T said:
Is waste oil completely out of the question? I know it would have a higher initial cost, but then free operational cost.

Most people under estimate the amount of (waste) oil they will need, over estimate the amount of waste oil they generate and end up buying fuel oil (or kerosene) to make up the difference. These waste oil heaters are less efficient on fuel oil, so operating costs climb. Then add on the cost of the unit (compared to a standard heater) and you'll realize that it (a waste oil heater) is unlikely to be very cost effective. Places with many vehicles (truck or bus companies) can do it usually, but not always. I know of one place that tried, and realized after a couple of seasons that it would not work for them--they didn't have enough waste oil, could not get any (remember any waste oil you get for 'free' may be contaminated with all kinds of ****, such as dirt, anti-freeze and gear oil) additional oil. They regretted getting the heater.

I'd suggest you consider a vented ceiling hung gas heater (a Mr. Heater thing) and go that route. Get a 45 K unit (or smaller if you can find it) and that should be good.

Steve91T · Nov 12, 2012

You guys are probably going to kill me, but I just purchased a Procom dual fuel 30k BTU ventless garage heater from Northen Tool. I'm picking it up tomorrow. It was only $219. It accepts either propain or NG with no modifications. I'm going to have it plumbed into the water heaters NG line. For what I'm doing, I think it'll be just fine.

I really do appreciate all of the opinions and help. I hope this doesn't come off wrong, but I had to make a decision.

I'll let you guys know how it goes!

heavypaws23 · Nov 13, 2012

Jackfre said:
You have a nice garage. The best option in my opinion is the Rinnai EX22C for your situation, but it is pricey. That said, you get what you pay for. Direct vent and you have to only drill a 3" hole in the wall. I'd put it on the left side of the garage next to the door. That way it blows its warm air across the face of the garage doors. That has worked out well for me.

Vent free heaters are fine but you need to understand how they work. You will have a cold garage and all cold surfaces. You may well get condensation on surfaces. When you vent into the living space you are introducing moisture from the combustion process. There is approx 1.1 gallons of moisture entrained in the flue gas by-products per gallon of propane, fuel oil or NG burned. Your 30kbtu heater will put out a bit more than a pint per hr of operation. When it is really cold the moisture is not as much of a problem because the air is so dry. Cold air cannot hold moisture.

To my mind, the biggest problems using a vent free heater in a garage is the odors. First I have to say that I am sensitive to the by-products of combustion. If you have that heater running in your garage, within seconds of entering the space I get hit right in the back of the throat with it. Most people aren't sensitive to it. Check with your wife, because if she is and you aren't....well

If you paint in the garage, refinish furniture, spray WD-40 or heaven forbid, carb cleaner you will have the door open. Anything that is airborne will go through the heater and whatever it smelled like going in, it will smell worse coming out, guaranteed.

A direct vent heater is your best option. That said, there are millions of VF heaters operating especially across the south and as you point out. Some people love them. If you go that way, please post back and let us know how it works out for you.

Oh, one other thing. Infra-reds are the best VF's. They burn hottest down in the meniscus of the plaque, giving a cleaner burn than the blue-flame heaters. YOU MUST KEEP THE PLAQUES CLEAN. Compressed air is best but be careful. When Rinnai was selling IR's and I represented them we used to tell people to clean the plaque with 100# of air. You hit most others with 50# and you will blow the burner away. If the plaques are not kept clean it will drive you out of the place with the odor. Happy Heating!

You are a big proponent for Rinnai heaters, do you work for them? I priced one of their units for my garage (40 by 16) and it was almost $4,000 installed. You can't buy the unit from a dealer, you have to buy the unit and their installation. This unit may be great, but it is really pricey for a garage setting. The furnace in my home didn't cost that much for the unit & installation and that's to heat 3,000 sq feet. :scared:

Jackfre · Nov 13, 2012

heavypaws23 said:
You are a big proponent for Rinnai heaters, do you work for them? I priced one of their units for my garage (40 by 16) and it was almost $4,000 installed. You can't buy the unit from a dealer, you have to buy the unit and their installation. This unit may be great, but it is really pricey for a garage setting. The furnace in my home didn't cost that much for the unit & installation and that's to heat 3,000 sq feet.

I am a big proponent of them. I introduced these heaters to the New England market in '91. I was their manuf rep for 20 years. I sold my business and moved west. I now consult with them. I've sold over 180,000 of them into the NE market and they have been a terrific product. I have heated my own home with them since '93 and when I moved to CA 16 mos ago I removed a 5 year old furnace and associated ductwork and installed two EX22C's. I like them. I also heated my garage with an older model 1001 (10-38 kbtu). I just went up to Portland and installed one in my sisters house when she pulled her old oil fired furnace and it is heating her small house very well.

The actual installation of the heater, installing the vent, setting and trimming out the unit takes two hours. Running the gas line to it may add some cost and time, but I think $4k is a pretty stiff, but I don't know what your job entails and can't speak for your dealers business.

When I lived in MA and had the predecessor to the current EX22C, the 556WTA, I also had a central boiler system. I heated about 750 sq ft with the Rinnai. Generally, if you have central heat you will use it and occasionally run the "other" heat when necessary. As it worked for us, we had 3000 sq ft but lived in only the kitchen and family room area, the 750 sq ft the Rinnai was in. I would turn the boiler down to 60 max and heat the area we lived in, the 750 sq ft, to a very comfortable temp with the Rinnai. It worked really well and was economical. Next year, I will be building a new shop/garage. I won't spend the money for a radiant system. I don't think I need it. I'll put in a Rinnai Energysaver(s) and be very comfortable.

Yes, I am biased, but I have put my money where my mouth is

, and the heaters have been excellent. The other category of products I am biased towards is mini-split heat pumps. I represented Fujitsu for 12 years and promote them strongly too. I have them in my home as well.

Steve91T · Nov 14, 2012

Hey guys. I got my heater mounted last night. The book says it must be 36" from the ceiling and 8" from any wall on either side. It also said it must be 36" from any combustible (curtains, exe). I thought long and hard about the breaker box but decided that because the metal face plate of the box is flush with the wall, and the box itself is actually sitting inside the wall, that it'll be just fine.

The gas company called this morning and said they charge $150/hr even though the gas line is right there 10 feet away, it'll be a minimum of 2 hrs. That's $300 right there. Then about $75 for parts and a $75 fee for an inspection. That's $450! He also said they consider the breaker box a combustible, so that location won't work.

What do you guys think? I think common sense goes a long ways here. If the wall itself has no danger of getting too hot, how would the breaker box that's flush mounted? Also, as far as paying $450 to hook up the gas line, would you guys pay that? That seems absolutely insane.

DPelletier · Nov 14, 2012

The extra expense of the gas line is one of the reasons I would have recommended and electric resistance heater for your application but the real reason is air quality as the previous poster pointed out. Lack of oxygen and moisture issues prevent me from advocating ventless gas heaters though.

Dave

pfarber · Nov 14, 2012

Run the line yourself. Its not rocket science and as long as you have the test and permit they really can't say no. They really can't force you to use THEIR service, but you must pass code. My local gas co doesn't care what happens after the meter, but they will inspect and I have to do a leak test (which is free) which is 30 min no pressure loss.

The reason I don't like vent less is that it will **** air in from outside. Maybe a lot, maybe a little. The NG water vapor thing is a myth... ditto for propane. You can't burn enough to put a significant amount of RH into the air. Plus in winter, YOU WANT warm, humid air. Increases the comfort.

Electric would have been easier, but you have to weigh install cost vs fuel costs. Electric may be 'free' to install... but $300+ electric bills may make it unsustainable.

Steve91T · Nov 14, 2012

I'm anxious to see how I like the gas heater. I know it goes against what everyone says, but I agree that some moisture in the air will be welcome.

So, I can run the gas line myself and do all the commections and test it myself, right? Then have it inspected? ($75)

I know I can do it myself, I just need to read up on exactly what to do to make sure it's to code.

Plump · Nov 14, 2012

I have that exact heater and plumbed it myself. I run it off propane and love it. Moisture in the air!?!? I'll take it. Makes it more comfortable for sure and not nearly enough to have any affect on my tools.

JakeKohl · Nov 14, 2012

I know it's a bit late for this...and maybe a bit much for the budget, but have you considered a ductless mini-split heat pump? I have one in my 24x36 garage in Greenville, SC and it's keeping up marvelously with the frost laden nights...and I have air conditioning with it in the summer. I put in my own 18k BTU unit for about $2200 including installation materials (not necessarily tools). I actually did one upstairs and down and have been thoroughly impressed with them.

kngelv · Nov 14, 2012

I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I have a question. Why did you start this thread? You didn't listen to anyone's advice. You should have put up the 5k electric as was recommended by JohnK007 in the first response you got. Ventless gas is a bad idea for this application. If you have that inspected by a competent inspector he's going to fail it for being right next to the electrical panel. You paid exactly one dollar less than than the Fahrenheat would have cost so you didn't save any money. Sure it might cost a few cents more to operate but you'll have air you can breathe comfortably and no condensation in the garage. Again I'm not trying to be a jerk but you need to reconsider this.

James

Steve91T · Nov 14, 2012

Steve91T said:
What's wrong with using inside air for combustion?

The reviews are full of people using them in basements and rec rooms and they love it.

I'm afraid the IR heater will only feel hot if I'm directly under it. I could be wrong though.

Plump said:
I have that exact heater and plumbed it myself. I run it off propane and love it. Moisture in the air!?!? I'll take it. Makes it more comfortable for sure and not nearly enough to have any affect on my tools.

I'm glad to hear it. The reviews are very positive. Can you tell me how hot it gets on the sides? Think my breaker box will be a problem?

JakeKohl said:
I know it's a bit late for this...and maybe a bit much for the budget, but have you considered a ductless mini-split heat pump? I have one in my 24x36 garage in Greenville, SC and it's keeping up marvelously with the frost laden nights...and I have air conditioning with it in the summer. I put in my own 18k BTU unit for about $2200 including installation materials (not necessarily tools). I actually did one upstairs and down and have been thoroughly impressed with them.

Maybe for my nex garage. That's something I definitely want, but way out of my price range. Good to know though, I thought it would have been more than that. The summers are killer down here. I would die if it weren't for my box fan. Greenville is probably even worse than Charlotte.

kngelv said:
I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I have a question. Why did you start this thread? You didn't listen to anyone's advice. You should have put up the 5k electric as was recommended by JohnK007 in the first response you got. Ventless gas is a bad idea for this application. If you have that inspected by a competent inspector he's going to fail it for being right next to the electrical panel. You paid exactly one dollar less than than the Fahrenheat would have cost so you didn't save any money. Sure it might cost a few cents more to operate but you'll have air you can breathe comfortably and no condensation in the garage. Again I'm not trying to be a jerk but you need to reconsider this.

James

No worries, I was expecting something like this. The point of anyone asking questions on any forums is to gather information from other people. That information given is used to help make an educated desicission. Just because most of the people recommended an electric heater doesn't mean that's what I have to do. The moisture put out by the ventless actually is something I want. Every review I've read with this heater says the moisture isn't a problem. But who knows, it might be a problem. I can always return it.

The electric heater has half the BTU'S and costs more to operate. That is not what I want. I about fell out of my chair when I got the quote for the gas line. I'm going to do it myself. I just need clarification on that breaker box. Is it considered a combustible like curtains are? Or is it considered a wall? I still don't see how it could possible do any damage at all to that box. There's just no way it'll get the wall that hot. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to mount it at all.

I could just mount it 8" away from the box if you guys think its necessary.

Again, I really appreciate everyone's help.

creativecars · Nov 14, 2012

kngelv said:
I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I have a question. Why did you start this thread? You didn't listen to anyone's advice. You should have put up the 5k electric as was recommended by JohnK007 in the first response you got. Ventless gas is a bad idea for this application. If you have that inspected by a competent inspector he's going to fail it for being right next to the electrical panel. You paid exactly one dollar less than than the Fahrenheat would have cost so you didn't save any money. Sure it might cost a few cents more to operate but you'll have air you can breathe comfortably and no condensation in the garage. Again I'm not trying to be a jerk but you need to reconsider this.

James

LOL... Maybe he didn't follow your advise, but he did take in peoples comments and had communication back and forth until he came to his decision, for his application, at his house...

kngelv · Nov 14, 2012

creativecars said:
LOL... Maybe he didn't follow your advise, but he did take in peoples comments and had communication back and forth until he came to his decision, for his application, at his house...

You are right. It's his garage, heater, decision etc. my point was related to the fact that he seemed to already have his mind made up and then wanted some kind of affirmation with his decision. The point of the thread escapes me. So I'll stop commenting.

James

Steve91T · Nov 14, 2012

kngelv said:
You are right. It's his garage, heater, decision etc. my point was related to the fact that he seemed to already have his mind made up and then wanted some kind of affirmation with his decision. The point of the thread escapes me. So I'll stop commenting.

James

Not true. I at first really wanted waste oil when I started this thread. Then I nearly ordered the 5000 watt heater. Then I finally decided on the heater that I have now.

Steve91T · Nov 14, 2012

So back to my question about the location of the heater to the breaker panel....

CarreraX · Nov 15, 2012

Steve,
Great thread BTW. Im also considering what type of heater to put in my attached 3 car. Regarding the gas lines, I just had gas lines run into my kitchen for a new gas range my wife wanted. I paid to have it done. After it was done I realized that I needed to make some changes to it. I was concerned about moving lines etc until I actually did it. Pretty sure you are mechanical since you have a race car.

Do your homework and do the lines. Make sure all the gas is off etc and be careful. That is my .02. You can use soapy water to check for leaks. That said, I am not a plumber or certified at these things. Take my opinion with a grain of salt etc. You should then have it inspected to make sure it is ok. As for the breaker box.....Im pretty sure I would move it....the heater that is.

Kevin54 · Nov 15, 2012

That's the first that I have ever saw one of those heaters mounted up that high. That won't do you any good at all trying to heat the garage unless you have a ceiling fan to move the heat down from the ceiling. Are you positive that you read the instructions right?

If you didn't buy a blower motor for it, you had better get one now. You'll need it.

As far as mounted beside your breaker box, I'm not for certain, but I don't think anything is allowed around a breaker box for a certain distance. You may have to ask that in the electrical section and let the expert weigh in on that.

BTW...as dar as mounting the heater, this pic is from Northern Tools site. They have it mounted close to the floor where it should be. You may want to reread the mounting instructions because it either comes with, or you can purchase mounting feet so it sets on the floor. http://www.smgeneralstore.com/md300tbabb-procom-blue-flame-dual-fuel-heater.aspx

BTW...this was from one of the customer reviews. You may want to take heed and get a CO2 monitoring device

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars READ AND HEED: Great item, but BEWARE.., November 8, 2012
By
The Rabble - See all my reviews
This review is from: ProCom Blue Flame Vent-Free Wall Heater - 30,000 BTU Output, 1000 Sq. Ft. Heating Capacity, Model# MD300TBA (Misc.)
As mentioned these heater work well. I have three of them in operation.
Now this is IMPORTANT....DO NOT take the "vent free" at face value. These things put out co2.
Quite a bit. You MUST insure tht the space you are heating is vented. In a 15 x 15 room I have seen the co2 level rise to over 4000 using a 10k model in a space of 4-5 hours. The same with the 30000k model in a 25 x 25 room. I beleive the US gov has decided that anything under 5000 ppm on the co2 is "o.k." Do not fool yourself. 3000+ for a sustained period is enough to cause headaches in some people. As far as the "automatic sensor" goes I ran a test in a small room with a 30k model and a 10k model and neither one shut off when the co2 was over 5000. If you use one of these in a tight room ESPECIALLY if someone is to sleep in said room get a co2 monitor and VENT the room. Period. I doubt that all three of my heaters are defective. Do not take chances. Staying warm ain't worth someones life or health.

2 car garage heating opinions???

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