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Bolster's "Toolbox for Cleaning Stuff."

Bolster

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Bolster's "Toolbox of Cleaning Chemicals."

EDIT: Please note this list has been significantly updated and extended, Jan 29 '13. The list got too long for one post, so it spills over onto post 11.


Toolboxes for every conceivable purpose! That's my goal.

Recently I created a "cleaning toolbox" (a 5-gal bucket with bucket-boss) with various cleaning chemicals. This entailed quite a bit of research into which cleaning agent was good for what task. Herewith are my research results for discussion, correction, commentary, general edification, and perhaps amusement:

Acetone
A strong solvent, but relatively safe for humans (low toxic, VOC and HAP exempt). Dissolves plastic, paint, polyester, label adhesive. A last-ditch cleaner for removing oil stains from marble. Leaves virtually no surface film behind so cleans glass, porcelain. Solvent for oil, epoxy, paint, wood putty, superglue, resin, ink, rubber cement. Warning, it eats paint and plastic. Highly flammable.

Ajax
Powdered cleaner with abrasive. Traditionally it was ammonia based, now Ajax is advertised as bleach-based. Caution with glass, ranges. (Remember, don’t mix ammonia and bleach!)

Alcohol (Ethanol)
Semi-aggressive cleaning agent. Dissolves shellac, thins lacquer, dissolves aniline dyes. Removes overspray from some finished woods (not shellac, obviously). Also removes pencil marks from wood, removes dried latex paint. Removes vinyl paint. Wear gloves, removes protective oil from skin.

Alcohol (Isopropyl)
aka “Rubbing alcohol.” Cleans electric contacts, lens cleaner, glass cleaner. Also for resinous stains on clothing and gummy tar on ashtrays. Removes dried latex paint. Removes mildew stains from leather.

Ammonia
Grease-cutter, dissolves filmy residue. Excellent for glass, mirrors, stainless steel, enamel, painted doors, painted wood, painted walls, ceramic, concrete. Removes mildew stains. Cleans chrome. Cleans barbecue grills. Deodorizes sink drains full strength. A bowl of diluted ammonia in the oven overnight softens the grease. A last-ditch chemical for removing organic stains from marble. Use up to 1/2-1 cup per gallon of water (1:32 to 1:16) or even 1:8 for a strong solution. Do not use on aluminum or aluminum screens, will oxidize it dark. Do not use on brass, will pit. Do not use on plastic or acrylic, can haze. Do not mix with bleach, yields toxic fumes. If ammonia gets on skin, flood with water and rinse with vinegar. In eyes, flush with water for 15 minutes. Respirator highly recommended.

Baking Soda
Cleans chrome, stainless steel, wrought iron, plastic dishes and utensils. Used after a vinegar wash to remove hard water stains from glass. For cleaning refrigerator interior, mix 8 T soda with 1 gal warm water (1:32) and sponge walls—remember no bleach or petrol cleaners on the door gasket. Removes stain and film around faucets on porcelain. Mix 1:8 to clean microwave interior. Mix 3:1 to make a paste to remove baked-on food; OK for cast iron. Add 2 T to coffee maker to “sweeten” it.

Barkeeper’s Friend
Oxalic acid is the active ingredient, with abrasive powders. For aluminum, copper, brass, glass cook tops, tile. Good for removing rust, mineral spots, cuts soap scum. Do not use on silverware, marble, pewter, or anything that could scratch. Can scratch glass. Oxalic acid is poisonous.

Bleach
Cleans and sanitizes floors, walls, sinks, porcelain, refrigerators, toilets, garbage cans, patio bricks. The best treatment for mildew. Removes gasoline smell from cloth. Maintenance for bathrooms and showers. Repeat every couple of weeks at 1:32 for mildew abatement. 1:16 often recommended for surface cleaning, toilets, mildew removal. Removes persistent mildew stains at 1:3 in water. Mixed with laundry detergent, it removes stains from concrete and brick. Do not use on asphalt, which it will soften. Will dull porcelain and enamel if left standing. Never mix bleach with ammonia.

Bon Ami (“low-abrasive cleaner”)
Bon Ami is made of feldspar, hardness 6 is less than glass 7, so it won’t scratch glass. OK for mirrors, ceramics, porcelain, ceramic range tops, appliance surfaces, tile countertops. OK for plastic laminate like Formica. Not for plastic, Lucite, laminate floors, etc. Use nonabrasive cleaner if in doubt.

Brake Cleaner
A powerful solvent (tetrachloroethylene). Possibly more aggressive than carb cleaner. Brake cleaner is oil free. Bad for the health. Tetrachlorides are toxic. Don’t breath it. Irritating to skin. When heated, even small amounts can create deadly doses of phosgene gas. Some brands will damage plastic, others won’t. Can swell o-rings and deteriorate rubber. Kills nitrile gloves. A last-ditch solvent.

Brushes: Nylon, Brass, Steel
Don’t use nylon brush with acetone or lacquer thinner. Brass brushes are fragile and will bend. Steel brushes leave scratches.

Carburetor Cleaner
A powerful solvent. May have some oil in it, may leave a little residue. Generally brake cleaner is preferred for cleaning, but it’s even more dangerous. Bad for health. Don’t breathe it. Kills nitrile gloves.

Citrus
Lemon juice and salt remove many stains in cloth. (Or lemon juice and borax.) Lemon juice a traditional deodorizer. Citrus rinds with ice will clear the smell from a garbage disposal. Lemon rind removes smell of onions from hands. Similar uses to vinegar.

CLR,
Lime-Away
(or other
sequestrant)
Advertised to remove calcium, lime, & rust from tubs, toilet bowls, sinks, glass, chrome, fiberglass, stainless steel, humidifiers, dishwashers, washing machines, shower heads. Mix 1:1 with water for toilets, tubs, sinks, porcelain, cement, stucco, brick. Scrub and rinse promptly (2 minutes). If stain doesn’t disappear, use CLR full strength and rinse promptly. Also cuts soap scum. Wear rubber gloves, work in ventilated area. Do NOT use on: natural stone, marble, terrazzo, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, anodized metal, plastic laminates, Formica, aluminum, copper, brass, steam irons, refinished tubs. May etch older sinks tubs and tiles. May bleach older cement to white. Toxic if mixed with bleach.

Detergent, Concentrated
Fantastik, an “all purpose cleaner,” is made of ammonium chlorides. Fantastik is advertised for appliances, countertops, sinks, floors, stainless steel, cabinets, chrome, tubs, glazed tile, porcelain, sealed fiberglass, and showers. Effective for removing grease, tar, road film, & “grime.” Kills mold and mildew with 3-min. contact. Also anti-bacterial, anti-virus, and a deodorizer. Wash hands with soap and water after handling. Pine-sol is a detergent and general cleaning solution, a wall detergent like Mr. Clean. Simple Green & Greased Lightning & Purple Power are similar (?). Also removes pitch from saw blades. Simple Green full strength can dull/etch epoxy paint.

Detergent, Liquid
aka Dishwash
Liquid
aka “Liquid Detergent.” Dawn is one of the most popular for cutting oil & treating oily stains, but also formulated not to harm hands. (Also Gain, Ivory, Joy, others.) For dirty exterior walls, for plastic laminate such as Formica, for acrylic, plastic & vinyl. First solution for marble. One of the only safe cleaners for fiberglass. (For fiberglass, you can’t use abrasives, except when surface is dull, then use automobile rubbing compound. Have seen fine steel wool rec’d for scuffs and scratches).

Germicide
Lysol. Great for killing mildew.

Glass Cleaner
Removes decals, too. Never use glass cleaner on a computer monitor.

Gloves

Goof Off
Spot remover and degreaser. Advertised for removing dried latex paint, pen and marker, ink, grime, oil, shoe polish, makeup, stickers, residue, grease, crayon, gum. (Note: Pre-wash laundry spray will remove label adhesives safely.)

Lacquer Thinner
Strong solvent mix of acetone, ketone, toluene, alcohol. Dissolves any water-based finish. Softens tar and plastics. Removes ink, adhesives, decals. Attacks surfaces and fabrics. Dangerous. Don’t breathe it. Wear gloves & respirator.

Lime
Chlorinated lime, sprinkled, removes musty mildew and mold odors.

Mineral Spirits aka Paint Thinner
Aka Paint Thinner, Solvent Naphtha, Stoddard Solvent, White Spirits, Petroleum Spirits, Mineral Turpentine, & Turpentine Substitute. Mild and low-toxicity solvent, but stinky. The odorless variety is less powerful. The standard oil-based brush cleaner & safe de-greaser for metal. Thins & removes oil-based products, varnish, carbon, wax. Removes wood gums from blades. Brush cleaner, but only dissolves fresh paint.


...due to length, continued on post 11.
 
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#1SomeGuy

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How about Goo Gone? Is that covered by something in here?
Gloves - Nitrile/Latex (see recent thread)
Paper Towel/Shop Towels?
Rags? Microfibers? etc
SOS/Scouring Pads?
Brake Clean?
 
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Bruce Lancaster

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Two spray cans: Brake cleaner, which removes lots of difficult stuff and will also drop that fly bothering you INSTANTLY. Must be used with some discretion. Probably as good for you as plutonium.
Carburetor cleaner...if nothing else will do the job, this will either dissolve the mess off of target object or remove your object and leave the mess...

I once removed ground-in chewing gum from a carpet with carb cleaner. The lingering fumes also removed my family from the house for quite a while, but whatever.
 

signcrafter

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That's a nice list and details about the products.

I recently discovered bar keepers friend and love that stuff for cleaning our stainless pots and pans. I have a 16qt stock pot that I made a huge batch of jumbalaya in for a Christmas get together. Somebody reheated it later in the night in the pot and the bottom layer of rice and stuff burned to the bottom of the pot. This was a nice stainless steel pot with a nice heavy bottom and I was bumming since it was expensive and I'd never had anything burn in it before. Regular dish soap just didn't do anything. Did some research and found bar keepers friend and it worked amazing!
 

Pantsfall_McFixit

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Thank you for this information, it's good to know which cleaners will clean what. I always wasn't sure which product would work best for the type of cleaning to do, since I don't want to destroy the item but still want it clean!
 

larry_g

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I use Hopps #9 to clean old measuring instruments. Removes crud without harming the surface.

lg
no neat sig line
 

metaleltr

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That's a nice list and details about the products.

I recently discovered bar keepers friend and love that stuff for cleaning our stainless pots and pans. I have a 16qt stock pot that I made a huge batch of jumbalaya in for a Christmas get together. Somebody reheated it later in the night in the pot and the bottom layer of rice and stuff burned to the bottom of the pot. This was a nice stainless steel pot with a nice heavy bottom and I was bumming since it was expensive and I'd never had anything burn in it before. Regular dish soap just didn't do anything. Did some research and found bar keepers friend and it worked amazing!
I had a similar problem one time, macaroni burned in a small cooking pot, my mom wanted to know if i could get it out. After the power washer didn't do anything-2800 psi-red tip; I switched to a wire brush mounted in my drill-took it right out!
 

SteveL

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Special note for oven cleaners.....removes anodized finishes whether you want it to or not!

CLR - see Oven Cleaners. Learned the hard way in our master bath. :(

Dawn dish washing cleaner - quickest way to remove all the wax off your car and oils from your skin.

Something I would add to your list:

Simple Green - full strength will remove just about anything including the nice glossy finish on your fresh epoxy floor. Diluted makes a good general purpose cleaner. Removes built up pitch on wood working saw blades.

Greased Lightning - almost as strong as Simple Green but a little safer full strength.

White vinegar - May remove bird sh!t stains on your cars paint if caught early enough. Oh, and removes rust if you leave it on so be careful!

And to add to a previous post - Brake cleaner, will also drop that fly bothering you INSTANTLY. Must be used with some discretion.

Works especially well if you happen to have a cigarette lighter handy! :)
 
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Bolster

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...continued from first post...

Non-abrasive Cleaner
aka “all purpose cleaners” such as “409.” Helps with mild hard water deposits and mild soap scum.

Oven Cleaner
A de-greaser. Many (Mr. Muscle) made of ammonia-like monoethanolamine (MEA). Attacks carbon and grease. Removes anodization.

Paint Stripper
Contains methylene chloride. Attacks plastic and skin.

Powdered Cleanser
(aka
Scouring
Powder)
Ajax = Used to be an ammoniated abrasive cleaner (don’t mix with bleach). Comet = Comet is a powdered abrasive cleanser (sometimes called “scouring powder”) with bleach, & modern formulation claims “no scratch.” OK for ceramic bathtubs, sinks, toilets, probably OK for tile with care. Disinfectant. Attacks stains with bleach. Do NOT use on aluminum, paint, walls, rubber, plastic, acrylic, fiberglass, or mix with ammonia. Bon Ami = Bon Ami is a mild abrasive powder made of feldspar, hardness 6 is less than glass 7, so it won’t scratch glass. OK for mirrors, ceramics, porcelain, ceramic range tops, appliance surfaces, tile countertops. OK for plastic laminate like Formica. Not for plastic, Lucite, laminate floors, etc. Use nonabrasive cleaner if in doubt. Many scouring powders can harm porcelain, glass, plastic, fiberglass.

Putty Knives

Q-tips

Rags & Towels

Razor Blades

Respirator.
Handy for ammonia, bleach, CLR, others!

Rubbing Compound
Automobile paint rubbing compound such as DuPont No. 7 is recommended for dull fiberglass.

Scotch Brite Pads
Spun polypropylene with 9 grades of abrasive grit added. Can disguise scratches in steel wool if rubbed ‘with the grain.’ Can scratch, depending on grit.

Scouring Pads
SOS, Brillo are stainless steel wool – will scratch. Don’t use on ranges. Chore boy and Chore girl are copper.

Scrapers, Plastic

Sponges & Rags
Including “Magic Eraser” and “Easy Erasing Pad.” Creates melamine foam that works well for particular stains: crayons, scuff-marks, pencil. Take care with painted and polished surfaces.

TSP
Trisodium Phosphate. A strong general purpose “soapless” cleaner/detergent. Emulsifies grease into tiny particles that wash away. Removes wax, helps with hard water stains. TSP used to be the main ingredient in many floor and wall detergents such as **** ‘n Span, Soilax. Use only 1-2 T. per gallon or 2-4 T. for a heavy dose. Used to: clean floors, outside house walls before painting, clean mosaic tile and terrazzo, clean kitchen exhaust fan filters, house siding, linoleum, flushing auto radiators, cleaning and softening paint brushes, cleaning concrete. Soak brushes in 15% solution overnight. Good for refrigerator, oven, range surfaces and countertops. A prewash to loosen grease stains in clothes. Not for wood floors. TSP softens paint (therefore painters use it to prep surface for new coat.) It can be mixed with bleach with no adverse reaction to clean mildew. Mixed with mineral spirits to remove carbon residue. TSP softens paint, and can stain metal and damage grout, so not used for cleaning bathrooms. Environmentalists don’t like it because phosphates cause algae growth in water systems, so hard to obtain now. Substitutes exist. Laundry detergent may sometimes be substituted (?).

Vinegar
5% acetic acid. Grease cutter. Deodorizer. Removes soap scum. Good mirror cleaner. Removes white drink stains on furniture, washes glass and porcelain. 1c to 1 gallon (1:16) of water is often rec’d solution. Combine with baking soda, table salt, or scouring powder to enhance cleaning ability. Deodorizes tobacco/cigarette smoke if set out in bowls in room. Cleans coffee makers. Removes kerosene & gasoline smell from hands. Good for greasy stains on chandeliers, ceramic tiles. Can remove some spots from glass windows that ammonia can’t. Brings out bright colors in fabrics. Removes wood gums from blades. Soak 50% solution (1:1) to remove tea and coffee stains and lime scale in water pots. Remove brown discoloration from hard water with 50% vinegar solution followed by baking soda scrub. Remove hard water marks and soap scum with a paste of vinegar and baking soda, let stand and rinse. Vinegar has been reported as very mild for soap scum and hard water deposits.

WD-40
For water disbursal, but also works to dissolve “sticky.” Composed 50% of mineral spirits. Do not use as a rust preventive, as it’s just not good at it.
 
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Dberglind

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I try to keep a lot of job specific tool boxes as well.

If you make any additions to this list, please keep it updated. I think I might print it out and use it as a cheat sheet. :thumbup:
 

Mohawk Dave

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I love INDUSTRIAL PURPLE for heavy degreaser. It will take off paint etc. VERY STRONG.

Also, I use AWESOME from the 99cent store. Great all purpose cleaner. Can damage paint. Great on fabrics like old dirty truck seats.
 

Dberglind

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During your research did you come across anything specific to "Pet Stains"?
 
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Bolster

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During your research did you come across anything specific to "Pet Stains"?

OH YES...well, PET SMELL more than stain. I had a serious problem in a house someone kept a cat in. All my efforts, to no avail. Including all the formulations you see that are specifically for pee, and the products sold at pet stores precisely for that problem. Finally went on a research bender, started to understand the chemistry (urea salts, etc) and discovered WEE CLEANER, sold online (not in stores I could find). Solved the problem in two applications and the house was habitable. (That was after two weeks of throwing everything at the smell that I could buy, with no discernible results.) WEE CLEANER is expensive and WORTH IT.

Damned cats.
 
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Bolster

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OK, new and updated list, 1/15. Remember I could be wrong--I'm known more for my good looks than my intellect-- so verify with your own research.
 
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Acosi151

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No armor-all or paste wax? Does applying a protective coat after cleaning count as cleaning?

What about Fast Orange to clean yourself?

Probably wouldn't hurt to throw a $5 mini-pick set in the box too to scrape crud out of cracks that the brushes aren't getting.
 

signcrafter

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Do you carry all these with you? You said you use a 5 gallon pail, do you have smaller containers of these chemicals in that? Or do you take them as needed?
 

goodspeed

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Great read. I'll definitely be putting together a cleaner box in the near future. Most likely with a copy of this.
 

Gort the giant robot

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I guess i am pretty lucky. At work we have a Storm Vulcan parts washer and a Mac glass bead machine. I have a piece of plywood with a bunch of nails driven thru it to put socket on to degrease them in the Storm Vulcan washer. Most of the time i only use the glass bead machine to derust the inside of sockets. I have short pieces of extenstions that i stick in my drill press to spin and polish sockets.

Gort.
 

Outlawmws

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Simple green: Degreaser, general purpose cleaner, used full strength in a soak it can save house painting brushes, and other painting tools, I've used it to remove rattle can spray from tool box logos, and my son uses it to remove paint from models so he can reapaint it in another schema.

Lighter fluid (Ronsonoil)/Coleman fuel/White gas/Naphtha (AKA Panel wipe across the pond). (pretty much all the same stuff)

Cleans gummy cud from almost anything adn normally won't danage the finish.

Spot Shot: Carpet cleaner and works wonders! I've cleaned grease spots, red wine stains, curdled milk black spots, you name it.
 
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Bolster

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Do you carry all these with you? You said you use a 5 gallon pail, do you have smaller containers of these chemicals in that? Or do you take them as needed?

Working on that. The research and the list kind of ran away from me, and now the list is much longer than the current contents of the bucket. Looking for good, chemical proof, smaller bottles. Maybe a pint or a cup each. I think they are called 'reagent bottles.' Suggestions welcomed. (What can hold Acetone without melting and/or spilling, other than the original can?)
 
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machine_punk

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Windex: Degreases ANY shiny surface. Not just good for the glass 'front' of the oven, but good on the painted stove top, after a session of deep frying, too. I see you have ammonia, which is the active ingredient.

I noticed you have both ammonia and bleach in your tool box. BE VERY CAREFUL...if you mix these two, you can produce a gas which will kill you.

Kev
 

Dberglind

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Working on that. The research and the list kind of ran away from me, and now the list is much longer than the current contents of the bucket. Looking for good, chemical proof, smaller bottles. Maybe a pint or a cup each. I think they are called 'reagent bottles.' Suggestions welcomed. (What can hold Acetone without melting and/or spilling, other than the original can?)

Hmmm, probably still not big enough, but how about a long modified carpenter's toolbox. Could hold quite a few cans and spray bottles in large version of something like this:

P1010038.JPG
 

signcrafter

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Working on that. The research and the list kind of ran away from me, and now the list is much longer than the current contents of the bucket. Looking for good, chemical proof, smaller bottles. Maybe a pint or a cup each. I think they are called 'reagent bottles.' Suggestions welcomed. (What can hold Acetone without melting and/or spilling, other than the original can?)

I have ordered some stuff from these guys, http://www.freundcontainer.com/. Pretty sure they have containers for just about everything.
 

Bruce Lancaster

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Carb cleaner, spray type, not the real stuff for actual carbs: Smells like most other solvents, just fiercer, good fast cleaner for anything in the range that could be dissolved with gas or alcohol or thinner. Will destroy some plastics and rubbers, most kinds leave a light film of oil that is in the formula. The oil will evaporate after a while.

Brake cleaner: Somehow smells like it is going to give you lung cancer, really ugly and disturbing chem smell in my opinion. HATE the stuff, but excellent cleaner, leaves no residue at all, quick evap, generally not dangerous to plastic/rubber because made to be safe for brake cups and stuff. It leaves things reallydamnclean with no residue, so is good final shot when planning to paint whatever you are cleaning.
I have used it to shoot flies and wasps...INSTANT death, flies just drop straight down from their flight paths and you can hear the corpse hit the floor. More reason to fear the stuff...
 

AL`

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Suggestions welcomed. (What can hold Acetone without melting and/or spilling, other than the original can?)
Finger nail polisher remover bottles; i.e., glass. The primary ingredient of fingernail polish remover is acetone. Uh, don't ever put it in a styrofoam cup. Learned that early in life as it was a primary ingredient in my chemical warfare arsenal when concocting agents for ant piles :D. And don't give it to momma's pet bird to drink because you thought it was thirsty. But it will stop the annoying chirping :lol:. The bottles are thick and less prone to breakage.

Edit to add: Another suggestion would be to purchase smaller metal cans of acetone, mineral spirits, varnish, etc, and save those cans, then refill from the larger economy size ones. I've got a can of Kroil that would work great for that when it gets used up. I wonder if the seafoam cans would work for it as well. I can't recall if the inside of the cap is plastic or not. I just went and looked at a can of berryman's carb cleaner I have (not an aerosol can, just for pouring). It has a plastic cap that can handle the carb cleaner sure enough, but I don't know how it would deal with acetone.

Damned cats.
I have cats, btw, and they use the litter box. No smell, no messes, no problem so long as the litter box gets regularly changed. I think you should have said, "Damned trashy pet owners." :3gears:
 
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Bolster

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Here's the kit, so far. I count 14 chemicals + brushes, rags, sponges, gloves, etc.

At this point I'm using Boston Brown Bottles for their chemical resistance. THey're double-bucketed (a smaller bucket is in the larger bucket), and packed with sponges and rags between them, to keep them separated and cushioned. Sturdy little bottles, I have little concern about breakage as long as they're well packed inside the bucket.

CleaningKit.jpg


Done several trial runs and--so far, what I have needed, has been in the bucket. Off to a running start, but still learning. For example, you really DO want a respirator if you're using ammonia.
 
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Outlawmws

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Here's the kit, so far. I count 14 chemicals + brushes, rags, sponges, gloves, etc.

At this point I'm using Boston Brown Bottles for their chemical resistance. THey're double-bucketed (a smaller bucket is in the larger bucket), and packed with sponges and rags between them, to keep them separated and cushioned. Sturdy little bottles, I have little concern about breakage as long as they're well packed inside the bucket.

CleaningKit.jpg


Done several trial runs and--so far, what I have needed, has been in the bucket. Off to a running start, but still learning. For example, you really DO want a respirator if you're using ammonia.


Get a small cardboard box and make cardboard separators for them. ;)
 

Dust

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We're using a product called Green 1 at our shop. Works pretty damn well on engine oil, grease, coolant, and cleaning up brakes, but the number one use we have for it is cleaning our hands. It has glycerin in it, and it completely destroys any crud we have on our hands.

One lube guy has also drank it with no ill effects.

http://green1environmental.blogspot.com/
 
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