mrbill7788

mrbill7788 · May 22, 2013

I have a 3 phase 220v pizza oven that I need to test for functionality I only have 1 phase 220v power at my shop I need to know what is the best way to wire this thing so I can see if it is working correctly

Norcal · May 22, 2013

mrbill7788 said:
I have a 3 phase 220v pizza oven that I need to test for functionality I only have 1 phase 220v power at my shop I need to know what is the best way to wire this thing so I can see if it is working correctly

You need to post a pic of the oven data plate showing make & model number,exact electrical data as 220 is very odd voltage for modern ovens, plus there could be something like this:

wyliesdiesels · May 22, 2013

Norcal said:
You need to post a pic of the oven data plate showing make & model number,exact electrical data as 220 is very odd voltage for modern ovens, plus there could be something like this:

Norcal- I think the OP means 240v and confused the correct voltage w/ 220v like thousands of others have and continue to do!

Norcal · May 23, 2013

wyliesdiesels said:
Norcal- I think the OP means 240v and confused the correct voltage w/ 220v like thousands of others have and continue to do!

My point is the EXACT data is needed. The oven will most likely be 208 or 240V and the difference is important.

mrbill7788 · May 23, 2013

here is a pic of the data tag

nehog · May 23, 2013

That thing draws 75 amps at 220 volts. That's just over 28 KW of power. Even if you connected one phase at a time (that's the way I'd test it, even my big three phase generator would gasp at that power requirement...) you're talking a major power drain.

I'd connect each phase, check current draw, then do the next phase. But you don't probably even need to do that: just use an ohm's meter and measure the resistance of the elements. I doubt there are any complex electronics in this oven (perhaps a simple thermostat with a big contactor is all there is.)

You're going to make that many pizzas? :bounce:

Aceman · May 23, 2013

Call Hobart or read the manual.

Larwyn · May 23, 2013

Sometimes it just doesn't pay to change the facts before answering the question.

nehog · May 24, 2013

Larwyn said:
Sometimes it just doesn't pay to change the facts before answering the question.

<confused, who changed the facts?>

Larwyn · May 24, 2013

nehog said:
<confused, who changed the facts?>

It was meant in good humor. Let's just say that there were attempts to modify the facts stated in the question by someone who doubted the OP's ability to read a nameplate. Just a simple case of "I never heard of that, so you must be wrong.". Even though the OP correctly stated 220 volts, one responder stated that 220 volts was highly unusual and insisted on a picture of the nameplate so that he could correctly read it for the OP. Others just assumed that the oven actually operated on 240 volts or even 208 and the OP just called it 220 because it is such a common error. I just find it amusing that it was requested that the OP prove the validity of his question as challenged by "the experts". The man did ask for help, he did not ask to be accused of being unable to read. If I were to ask if I could run a 100 volt 50 cps clock on 120 volt 60 cps service, I would expect to be told something like "yes, but it will gain 10 minutes every hour", NOT "Send me a picture so I can tell you what you really have."

Norcal · May 24, 2013

Larwyn said:
It was meant in good humor. Let's just say that there were attempts to modify the facts stated in the question by someone who doubted the OP's ability to read a nameplate. Just a simple case of "I never heard of that, so you must be wrong.". Even though the OP correctly stated 220 volts, one responder stated that 220 volts was highly unusual and insisted on a picture of the nameplate so that he could correctly read it for the OP. Others just assumed that the oven actually operated on 240 volts or even 208 and the OP just called it 220 because it is such a common error. I just find it amusing that it was requested that the OP prove the validity of his question as challenged by "the experts". The man did ask for help, he did not ask to be accused of being unable to read. If I were to ask if I could run a 100 volt 50 cps clock on 120 volt 60 cps service, I would expect to be told something like "yes, but it will gain 10 minutes every hour", NOT "Send me a picture so I can tell you what you really have."

This situation is a rare case where the OP did state the correct data, but 220 is rather odd for commercial cooking equipment, if it had been 208V I suspect it would have most likely been too expensive to change elements since parts are costly & Hobart even more so.

Some companies post their manuals online, Hobart is real tight w/ their information the OP is going to have to contact Hobart to see if it is permitted to reconnect the oven for a single phase supply.

mrbill7788 · May 24, 2013

so what I am getting from all this is to test it phase by phase. This unit has 3 ovens with 3 separate digital thermostats.Now is it safe to assume that each oven will operate on 2 of the 3 legs of power? And remember that I am just TESTING this for functionality not a permanent install.

mrbill7788 · May 24, 2013

so I guess the proper question to ask is can I take my 2 legs of 240v 1 phase power and connect it to 2 of my 3 legs of input power and not burn anything up?

mrbill7788 · May 24, 2013

thank you larwyn for your support.

wyliesdiesels · May 24, 2013

Larwyn said:
It was meant in good humor. Let's just say that there were attempts to modify the facts stated in the question by someone who doubted the OP's ability to read a nameplate. Just a simple case of "I never heard of that, so you must be wrong.". Even though the OP correctly stated 220 volts, one responder stated that 220 volts was highly unusual and insisted on a picture of the nameplate so that he could correctly read it for the OP. Others just assumed that the oven actually operated on 240 volts or even 208 and the OP just called it 220 because it is such a common error. I just find it amusing that it was requested that the OP prove the validity of his question as challenged by "the experts". The man did ask for help, he did not ask to be accused of being unable to read. If I were to ask if I could run a 100 volt 50 cps clock on 120 volt 60 cps service, I would expect to be told something like "yes, but it will gain 10 minutes every hour", NOT "Send me a picture so I can tell you what you really have."

Semantics asside, verifying the correct voltage IS important because there is some equipment that truly does need to be fed 220v and NOT 240v! If the OP had a motor and stated it was 220v, I would have still questioned the voltage because there's motors that run on 220v and a buck/boost transformer is needed to run them on 240v. People confuse and interchange 220v and 240v all the time, which in some cases can fry stuff. Its always good to double check ratings for this reason. However, for the OP, the oven is most likely capable of running on 240v and is just rated at 220v, much like motors are rated at 230v/460v for 240v/480v systems, and thus the oven will draw less amps at nominal utility voltage. But he needs to check the manual first!

mrbill7788 said:
so what I am getting from all this is to test it phase by phase. This unit has 3 ovens with 3 separate digital thermostats.Now is it safe to assume that each oven will operate on 2 of the 3 legs of power? And remember that I am just TESTING this for functionality not a permanent install.

mrbill7788 said:
so I guess the proper question to ask is can I take my 2 legs of 240v 1 phase power and connect it to 2 of my 3 legs of input power and not burn anything up?

U need to find the manual and check the wiring schematic.

nehog · May 24, 2013

mrbill7788 said:
so I guess the proper question to ask is can I take my 2 legs of 240v 1 phase power and connect it to 2 of my 3 legs of input power and not burn anything up?

You probably can do this... Personally, I think you don't have the experience to do this safely, however. If it is three ovens, (let's assume they are equal) it may be possible. However, if they are digital then their control systems may well have the ability to detect a lost phase and shut off the oven as this would be a power supply fault condition.

mrbill7788 said:
so what I am getting from all this is to test it phase by phase. This unit has 3 ovens with 3 separate digital thermostats.Now is it safe to assume that each oven will operate on 2 of the 3 legs of power? And remember that I am just TESTING this for functionality not a permanent install.

My comment on the current draw, 75 amps, was meant to frighten you. I failed. This is not a home-test situation for someone who doesn't have the experience or skills to work with higher power equipment.

I think you will need to test it after installing it.

I'd recommend you do ohms testing (resistance) of each element, disconnecting the elements for the test. They (each phase) should be roughly equal in resistance (remember, we're talking cold resistance which will be lower than hot resistance.) This will tell you if the elements are still OK. As for the controller/thermostat(s) you need to determine if they are capable of working on single phase or require three phase to power them. I suspect they use single phase for power to the controller/thermostat and some three phase contactors for the ovens.

mrbill7788 · May 24, 2013

nehog I AM NOT asking for your opinion on whether I am capable of testing this equipment. I am however asking for guidance so that I may SAFELY test this equipment. so on that note my question still stands can I hook up my 240v 1ph hot legs to 2 of my 3 legs of 220v 3 ph

mrbill7788 · May 24, 2013

thank you gentlemen for your input I WAS able to hook up the oven as we discussed and test the unit as needed. I think it is important to remember that people like myself look to your expertise for answers to questions, whether it be for confirmation OR lack of knowledge, so we DONT do things unsafely or make mistakes that could be potentially deadly in our efforts to help ourselves and others who do lack mechanical ability. And putting someone down or making snide comments about ones abilities is counter productive. I do understand that you as experts DO run into a good many people who don't have the mechanical abilities to do many of the things discussed on this site, but as experts I would think it would fall on you to explain these hazards in a manner not degrading to a layman but to such a degree that a layman may understand the potential dangers.

Again THANK YOU to all of the experts that offer there time to help those with questions they are searching for answers to. I found this site to be very helpful and will continue to seek my answers here. And maybe one day I to will be able to help someone with my expertise with questions they have.

Sincerely, MRBILL7788 :thumbup:

nehog · May 24, 2013

mrbill7788 said:
nehog I AM NOT asking for your opinion on whether I am capable of testing this equipment. I am however asking for guidance so that I may SAFELY test this equipment...

Sorry your feathers are ruffled. Please just ignore all my posts from now on.

There is certainly no need to SHOUT at me, either.

Regardless, please ignore me from now on. There is a forum feature to allow you to do this.

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