air compressor plumbing questions

[jdough]

All,
I recently bought a used old vertical Quincy compressor that appears to be 80 gallons. I want to plumb my garage and have decided to use 3/4 " type L copper plumbing for it. I have studied previous posts in this forum. I am getting ready to purchase a filter/regulator for it. I want to spend as little as possible for it but I don't want junk. Any suggestions for a decent quality economical filter? If I have 3/4 inch pipe do I need a 3/4 inch filter inlet/outlet? Most I have seen have smaller diameters then that. I am also looking for some specific suggestions on the connection from the compressor to the plumbing. I know I want something flexible, but I am not sure how to do it. Any suggestions/ pictures would be appreciated.

If anyone wants to provide pictures of how they have done their air handling system, I would love to see them.

Since I am just in the planning stage, if there are any other suggestions you may have or ideas that have worked well for you, I would like to here those.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

jdough,

Here is my Quincy that was just plumbed up in type "L" copper that was silver soldered at the joints. I used a Wilkerson water trap/filter coming off of the tank (3/4 NPT inlet/outlet) and running from there thru a 24" hydraulic line from Northern Tools (flexible joint to hard lines) and then to the manifold. This is the room the compressor is in but the garage outlets are done similar to this. The drops are all 1/2" with a IR water trap/filter/regulator on each drop. I used threaded valves for ease of replacement (if needed) and unions to isolate sections where the filters are located.

I can get you a pic of the drops in the garage tomorrow if you would like to see them but they are very similar to this one. Not a cheap way to go but then again, my airtools are not cheap either. I don't have a problem with water or oil in the air with this setup and living in Georgia, we do have a "little" humidity in the air.

[G-force]

You can get a decent flex pipe from Harbor Freight for cheap. It may not be the best but it's held up well to the 175 psi my Quincy puts out. For filters/regulators go with an industrial brand like Norgren or Wilkerson. I usually try and get matching size inlet to my pipe. I'm running about 75 ft of 3/4" L copper across the barn to my shop. Each of my drops reduce to 1/2" L. Right now I only have three drops but plan more in the future. I also run a regulator after my coalescing filter near the tank. This way I can regulate all my drops to the same pressure if I want to.

[D KRAGER]

Hydraulic hose works well from compressor to plumbing and can take the heat. You can find at any farm dealer or farm supply. (Make sure to get pipe thread)

Napa carries a filter system, it has a replaceable spin on filter. It takes moisture out of the system. I think it was under $100.

[hetkind]

For 3/4 copper line you will need to put on pipe threads for the filters and regulators. Since 1/2 line will already handle the max flow of the compressor, 1/2 water traps, filters and regulators should be adequate for your compressor output.

Looking at the McMaster-Carr catalog, the price difference between 1/2 and 3/4 pipe threads isn't that much on moisture traps and regulators...

Don't forget the big cost of a compressed air system isn't the compressor, a good distribution system will run as much or more than the compressor will, you can easily spend $100 a drop on moisture trap, regulator, piping, and quick connect fittings.

[saabman]

One of the roles of the metal main line is to act as a condenser. The air coming out of the compressor is hot and has water vapor. Generally you are not very successful getting the water out when the air is hot. In my garage I have a Quincy plumed with black iron running the perimeter of the garage (at 10 ft high). The drops feature 1/2 pipe and each has a regulator and water seperator.

Also, copper may be more forgiving to vibration that black iron, but a flex coupling does help to isolate the compressor from the piping. Flex coupling can be custom made by a hose shop or sourced as a commodity at Grainer or McMaster Car.

[pcmeiners]

Purchase a number of 1" particulate/Coalescing filters and regulators on Ebay for less then 25% retail cost ($20-50), all were new. Search individually Wilkerson, Parker, Watts, Norgren, Numatics,Devilbiss, Master Pneumatics (+) filter or pneumatic filter, coalescing (some coalescing filters have particle elements some don't); get the manufacturer's spec sheet. A filter with a auto drain float definite plus. I would not get one with less then 3/4" NPT, as the larger the filter, less the pressure/cfm loss; if you get a 1", bush it down to 3/4" you will get almost no loss and less filter changes. Best to get one with a ferrule which locks the bowl, screw in types less preferable but OK. Aluminum bowl not plastic, as they are safer and handle higher temp and pressure. There are some which have a détente clip to hold the bowl, definitely stay away from those.. purchased one, clip broke which could make them dangerous. I would stay away from little known brands.

Few, but I did not look up the specs....

http://cgi.ebay.com/NORGEN-PNEUMATIC...item19b53252a7

http://cgi.ebay.com/WATTS-Coalescing...item4a9b179169

http://cgi.ebay.com/WATTS-FILTER-REG...item5d2662f5cb

http://cgi.ebay.com/WATTS-FILTER-F60...item518c0a8c78

[Falcon67]

>I am also looking for some specific suggestions on the connection from the
>compressor to the plumbing. I know I want something flexible, but I am not
>sure how to do it. Any suggestions/ pictures would be appreciated.

If you have a Tractor Supply close by, a 36" 3/4 hydro hose is about 15$. And they have different lengths. I used a 3/4 gate valve at the compressor.

[mustangmccance]

falcon67 what kind of drain valve did you put on your compressor. mine still has the stupid little radiator style petcock and it is a pain to drain it. (so I don't do it near often enough)

[jdough]

Thanks for the quick responses. The pictures took some of the mystery out of the hook ups. pcmeiners, thanks for the links.

[Torque1st]

Keep the flex hose straight if you can to cut down on vibration transmission.

[bkvanbek]

I am finishing off my garage, about 3400sf, right now I have no floor, no ceiling and ICF walls. I would like rough in concealed plumbing for air lines. Done a little research and heard of guys using air brake line, sounds nice won't rust or corrode. Found this diagram, http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Files/YTCJYTCK/$File/pipe-layout.pdf?OpenElement

What line material and size to use, maybe seven outlets?
Can I run the line in the unconditioned space of the attic, here in MN?