shenders
Member
How big is this garage?
Thought I'd throw some pics of the project up (dial up warning)
- Thread starter IntrstlarOvrdrve
- Start date
IdahoJoe
Well-known member
shenders said:
Go back to the first post:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=28210&postcount=1
OP
IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thank goodness the sanding is finally over with!!! I was about ready to kill myself. I had thought about throwing myself off of the scafolding numerous times so that I couldnt work on it anymore (jk)
We painted the ceilings today..and for cheap too. Actually all of the paint we have used in the garage has been clearance paint. The grey on the base was one of those 'oops' buckets of paint they sell at home depot for whatever price, because they mixed the wrong color. The ceiling paint was a 5gallong bucket, but unfortunately it was not enough to cover the loft, so we mixed all of the white paints we had and got our lofts ceiling. Tomorrow we will be painting the walls
I must admit, the sheetrock work we did is superior to many houses I have been in, where professionals had done the work. I really dig the color, too.
We painted the ceilings today..and for cheap too. Actually all of the paint we have used in the garage has been clearance paint. The grey on the base was one of those 'oops' buckets of paint they sell at home depot for whatever price, because they mixed the wrong color. The ceiling paint was a 5gallong bucket, but unfortunately it was not enough to cover the loft, so we mixed all of the white paints we had and got our lofts ceiling. Tomorrow we will be painting the walls
I must admit, the sheetrock work we did is superior to many houses I have been in, where professionals had done the work. I really dig the color, too.
OP
IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Ok, over the past two days we got the walls painted a darker grey, and put our HID's up. This is what a lot of money in lighting looks like.
I love it, and we still have 13 other lights to hang! Its friggin bright in there, I took that pic at 11:30pm
I love it, and we still have 13 other lights to hang! Its friggin bright in there, I took that pic at 11:30pm
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I can't really tell you what specs they are, as I don't remember (my dad will) but I can assure you its VERY bright, the pics really don't show it. My cameras auto-darkening mode won't let me take a good pic of it. The larger holes are for more lights, and the smaller holes are for access holes into the attic.
OP
IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Got some more fixtures in, all along the sides and down the center. They look a little yellow in the pictures, not sure why. Some of them may be though, we alternated 34w lights in every other fixture down the center, because we ran out of 40w's when we were installing them. Soon we will replace all of them with the cool white's that occupy most all of the side lights. Hard to capture how bright it is, but it is pretty bright in there.
REFLEXX
Well-known member
You need a box of welding glasses and sunscreen for guests!
FANTASTIC!!!
You could also rent it out for studio photo sessions!!!
FANTASTIC!!!
You could also rent it out for studio photo sessions!!!
Craig Balzer
Well-known member
IntrstlarOvrdrve
Your comment about the bulb/light appearing yellow has nothing to do with the wattage of the various bulbs. The criterion that determines how the human eye registers the color of the light has everything to do with the light source’s Color Temperature.
Not all fluorescent tubes are created equally. Some have a pleasing color, others look hideously greenish. There are two numbers important to the color: the color temperature and the color rendering index (CRI). A color temperature around 2800K will give a color that has the warm, reddish hue of an incandescent bulb. A 4100K is cool white. Look for a CRI of at least 80, or expect some colors in the room to not look right – like maybe a bit yellowish.
A lamp marked F40T12CW is a Fluorescent, 40 watt, Tubular shaped bulb, 1½ inch diameter (the T number is in 1/8 inch increments so 12 = 12/8 or 1.5 inches) Cool White lamp. Other color designations are used such as Lite White, Deluxe Cool White, White, Soft White, Natural, Plant Lite, Plant & Aquarium, and so on.
Lamps utilizing rare earth phosphors have additional markings denoting color rendition index (CRI) and color temperature markings (chromaticity). Hence, a lamp marking of RE 835 would translate as follows: RE=Rare Earth, 8=80 to 89 % CRI and 35=3500K Chromaticity (color temperature). Color Rendition Index (CRI) is marked as 7, 8 or 9. Seven is from 70 to 79 % (good); 8 is from 80 to 89% (excellent); and, 9 is from 90 % or higher (superior).
And that is probably a WHOLE lot more about light bulbs than you ever caresd to know.
Craig (with lots of time on his hands)
Your comment about the bulb/light appearing yellow has nothing to do with the wattage of the various bulbs. The criterion that determines how the human eye registers the color of the light has everything to do with the light source’s Color Temperature.
Not all fluorescent tubes are created equally. Some have a pleasing color, others look hideously greenish. There are two numbers important to the color: the color temperature and the color rendering index (CRI). A color temperature around 2800K will give a color that has the warm, reddish hue of an incandescent bulb. A 4100K is cool white. Look for a CRI of at least 80, or expect some colors in the room to not look right – like maybe a bit yellowish.
A lamp marked F40T12CW is a Fluorescent, 40 watt, Tubular shaped bulb, 1½ inch diameter (the T number is in 1/8 inch increments so 12 = 12/8 or 1.5 inches) Cool White lamp. Other color designations are used such as Lite White, Deluxe Cool White, White, Soft White, Natural, Plant Lite, Plant & Aquarium, and so on.
Lamps utilizing rare earth phosphors have additional markings denoting color rendition index (CRI) and color temperature markings (chromaticity). Hence, a lamp marking of RE 835 would translate as follows: RE=Rare Earth, 8=80 to 89 % CRI and 35=3500K Chromaticity (color temperature). Color Rendition Index (CRI) is marked as 7, 8 or 9. Seven is from 70 to 79 % (good); 8 is from 80 to 89% (excellent); and, 9 is from 90 % or higher (superior).
And that is probably a WHOLE lot more about light bulbs than you ever caresd to know.
Craig (with lots of time on his hands)
Craig Balzer said:
Thanks for that, Craig. I actually find it very interesting.
I think I must have some of those greenish lights in my office at work, because it makes me sick to be there....
Seriously, which flourescent flavor would you recommend for lighting a small garage space? The tubes in my little 4' shop lights tend to give off a harsh, unnatural light.
I tend to leave them on a lot to deter thieves, so power consumption is an issue as well.
Will
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Craig Balzer said:
Wow, that was intense! Took me a few timse to comprehend it all, but thats neat. We need to just pick one bulb, and fill the garage with it. Most of the fixtures we bought surplus and they had a mix of lights. We did buy a lot of cool white plus's to put up, but still didn't have enough to finish it out.
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Since my last post we have gotten a lot accomplished. We sprayed in about 50 bags of R13 blow in insulation, with a machine we rented from home depot. That was a great experience, the machine was broken and we had to fix it. One of the motor mounts had broken and the motor had fallen closer to the floor, and rubbed a hole in the hose...which made it nearly impossible to spray insulation, we riged it up to work, but it took much longer than it should have. After we had blown the insulation in we were finally able to put the covers over the attic access holes.
After that we were able to move onto other things, because the insulation was finally out of the way. We sprayed the pegboard with an aluminum oxide paint, and put a clear over it to make it semi-reflective. In the pics it looks splotchy, but it's really not nearly as splotchy as they appear, they are just dirty from sitting. We also got around to putting all of the switch and outlet covers on. We hung trim as well, using some sort of vinyl that was supposed to be used to seperate the individual pieces of pegboard, but did not work out. Since we had lots of extra pieces of it left over, we used trim nails to hang it as trim..and it actually looks pretty friggin good.
We finished all of that yesterday, last night my dad put shelving in on top of the block, we have 8in on one side and 12in on the other. It really doesn't get in the way of anything, and seems plenty sturdy.
We also got the loft finished out, painted the loft floor, installed base trim and got all of the covers in place, but my battery ran out before I had a chance to snap a pic or two of it. We've also gotten a lot more 'invisible' work accomplished, and we are steadily moving along. The fact that I have started school again has taken a hit on our progress though, but its still not that big of a problem. Hopefully this weekend we will be able to pressure wash the floor and start coating it.
After that we were able to move onto other things, because the insulation was finally out of the way. We sprayed the pegboard with an aluminum oxide paint, and put a clear over it to make it semi-reflective. In the pics it looks splotchy, but it's really not nearly as splotchy as they appear, they are just dirty from sitting. We also got around to putting all of the switch and outlet covers on. We hung trim as well, using some sort of vinyl that was supposed to be used to seperate the individual pieces of pegboard, but did not work out. Since we had lots of extra pieces of it left over, we used trim nails to hang it as trim..and it actually looks pretty friggin good.
We finished all of that yesterday, last night my dad put shelving in on top of the block, we have 8in on one side and 12in on the other. It really doesn't get in the way of anything, and seems plenty sturdy.
We also got the loft finished out, painted the loft floor, installed base trim and got all of the covers in place, but my battery ran out before I had a chance to snap a pic or two of it. We've also gotten a lot more 'invisible' work accomplished, and we are steadily moving along. The fact that I have started school again has taken a hit on our progress though, but its still not that big of a problem. Hopefully this weekend we will be able to pressure wash the floor and start coating it.
IntrstlarOvrdrve said:
How much is "a lot of money?"
Do you have a breakdown of the costs?
We're looking to use HID's in some areas (mostly the shop area).
Friends company makes some really nice HID units, so we're hoping to go with some of thier units, mixed with some other stuff.
Lights look good, the wedges are not a bad idea but they look a little out of place. Are you planning to make them blend in a bit more, or are they there purely for function for a specific task?
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I *think* they were around $300 a fixture, but don't quote me on it.
The wedges are great, I really don't think they look all that out of place, but then again we were the ones who put them up. They really throw light well, and fill in a lot of places.
The wedges are great, I really don't think they look all that out of place, but then again we were the ones who put them up. They really throw light well, and fill in a lot of places.
OP
IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Alright, it's been slow lately but here are some pics of what we have done. We went ahead and got some shelving in, and started populating the shelves. Not to jump the gun or anything, but we really needed the room and everything was sitting on the garage floor..which we are tyring to prep to paint.
Our manuals
And we qiuckly figured out that it was a bear to get a lot of stuff up onto the loft, so we invested in a crane type operation. Here that is, and its great to have.
Anyways, thats got it covered
Our manuals
And we qiuckly figured out that it was a bear to get a lot of stuff up onto the loft, so we invested in a crane type operation. Here that is, and its great to have.
Anyways, thats got it covered
Looking good!
One word of caution...be VERY careful how much weight you put on the white wire shelves. I put some up in my garage when I first moved into the home. Within 2 years, a huge section came down on the hood of 1 of my cars at night. Did a pretty fair amount of damage. The factory plastic loops anchoring the back of the wire rack to the wall had simply deformed (they had one screw at the bottom, and formed a hook, like a curled up finger), and the shelf fell.
I went back to the store where I bought them, and surprise, surprise, they no longer sold 1 screw wall anchors. They now have two screws (one above and one below the hook that surrouds the shelf wire). I put one at each stud, and thought my problem was solved. Just to be sure, I greatly reduced the load on the shelves.
About 10 years goes by, and I'm working in the garage. I look across the shop, and notice that the shelf appears to be drooping on one end. On closer inspection, the "new" double screw anchors are failing. The plastic is actually turning yellow, and fatiguing right where the wire shelf hooks into it. (The screws were fine in both cases, but it was the plastic wall anchors/hooks that failed in both cases). So, back to the store for MORE anchors. I replaced them all, as on close inspection, about half of them had cracks.
I really like them as a storage solution, but I don't think I'm going to be able to bring myself to put any of them up in the new shop.
One word of caution...be VERY careful how much weight you put on the white wire shelves. I put some up in my garage when I first moved into the home. Within 2 years, a huge section came down on the hood of 1 of my cars at night. Did a pretty fair amount of damage. The factory plastic loops anchoring the back of the wire rack to the wall had simply deformed (they had one screw at the bottom, and formed a hook, like a curled up finger), and the shelf fell.
I went back to the store where I bought them, and surprise, surprise, they no longer sold 1 screw wall anchors. They now have two screws (one above and one below the hook that surrouds the shelf wire). I put one at each stud, and thought my problem was solved. Just to be sure, I greatly reduced the load on the shelves.
About 10 years goes by, and I'm working in the garage. I look across the shop, and notice that the shelf appears to be drooping on one end. On closer inspection, the "new" double screw anchors are failing. The plastic is actually turning yellow, and fatiguing right where the wire shelf hooks into it. (The screws were fine in both cases, but it was the plastic wall anchors/hooks that failed in both cases). So, back to the store for MORE anchors. I replaced them all, as on close inspection, about half of them had cracks.
I really like them as a storage solution, but I don't think I'm going to be able to bring myself to put any of them up in the new shop.
OP
IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks for the words of advice, I'll have to discuss this with my father.
About the crane, its just a harbor freight boom (I know, I know) with a Powerwinch 800lb winch on it. The boom is supposed to support that much too, but we're not planning on loading more than 200lbs at a time on it anyways.
About the crane, its just a harbor freight boom (I know, I know) with a Powerwinch 800lb winch on it. The boom is supposed to support that much too, but we're not planning on loading more than 200lbs at a time on it anyways.
PAToyota
Well-known member
How is the crane fastened to the floor? I'm sure you have taken precautions, but even a couple hundred pounds could be an issue with just wood subfloor and joists...
OP
IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
PAToyota said:
We have metal brackers mounted the the joists on the underside, as wel as the metal plate on top.
BoCRon
Well-known member
Is this a light box that you built, or is this something you can buy? Most of my ceiling space in my garage will have hyloft or hoist storage racks, so the only way I can add lighting would be down the center beam, or in the way you've done here. If this is a light one can buy, what is it called?
Love your shop!
Annette
Love your shop!
Annette
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
BoCRon said:Is this a light box that you built, or is this something you can buy? Most of my ceiling space in my garage will have hyloft or hoist storage racks, so the only way I can add lighting would be down the center beam, or in the way you've done here. If this is a light one can buy, what is it called?
Love your shop!
Annette
We built those
Thanks!
6567GTO
Member
Incredible garage! Way to go! 
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Got the floor coated this past weekend
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Been a while since I have had any updates, just nothing exciting going on. We got on of the two side garage doors installed a few weeks back, waiting on some hardware to come in so that we can put the other side in. We've also gotten a lot more shelving put in, re-organized things a bunch, and generally just been trying to move stuff in.
Our shop manual corner:
Sorry its a huge mess right now, but like I said..we are still trying to make some sense of the place
Our shop manual corner:
Sorry its a huge mess right now, but like I said..we are still trying to make some sense of the place
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IntrstlarOvrdrve
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Surprised me seeing this back on top
But yeah, my dad really digs Harry Gant. He collects various chunks of sheet metal from everywhere..
But yeah, my dad really digs Harry Gant. He collects various chunks of sheet metal from everywhere..
thetastelingers
Well-known member
Hey im in Chattanooga as well. (Ringgold to be exact)
place looks good man.
place looks good man.
safetyfast
Well-known member
How did you mount those shelves on the peg board?