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Old 12-22-2009, 03:33 PM   #1
Hiball
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Default Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Well After a Good Night Sleep, I decided that pulling this How-to didnt have any affect on what i was trying to steer away from. I created this thread for the Junkies who wanted to work on there own jacks, Pick up there parts Locally and try and save a buck. I do ask that the "Search" function be utilized for future problems prior to contacting me. There is Tons of Good information inside and outside this thread in regards to these jacks.


Well after numerous requests ive decided to put together a tutorial that will assist you do it yourselfers resurect/maintain your Taiwan Jack. This tutorial will cover the Main version of these jacks and i will try to include any variances that you might encounter. Again your jack might be different in color or possible fastener type but it will share the same hydraulic system along with location of key componenets for your typical Overseas 2-3 ton floor jack, This doesnt include Quick Lift Jacks as they will be a tad bit different and include another valve system. If you have any questions feel free to contact me with a Picture and I will assist you. Enjoy GJ and Have a Happy Holidays.



This is your typical Overseas design that i had sitting in the back of the shop, I had cabbaged the rear casters off this jack and it was a perfect candidate for this write up.


Well to start off you will need to remove the handle assembly, This particular jack requires a 15/16" socket to accomplish. I used a impact to speed up the process.


Once both upper bolts are removed you can remove the Handle assembly and the handle return spring, On some jacks you will have 2 of these, 1 on each side. This particular model only has 1.


Handle assembly Gone.


Next you will remove the lower bolts, these are fastened by a 3/8 allen head so you can get to them without removing the wheels. While you are here you will notice the silver bar at the rear of the jack this is just a stiffening brace held on by nuts that protrude thru the frame, this needs to come out.


Once you remove all bolts you can pick up on the rear of the frame and slide it forward, This will expose the next step.



Using a Prybar or Screwdriver slip the return spring off, On some jacks there will be 2 of these, This one has only 1.



Using a Cotter Key remover tool or side cutters Pull the key out.

We are now ready to head over to the vise.


Once secured in the Vise you can pull the Pump straight out, There will be no seals on it as they are inside Jack.






This particular style uses a flat recessed seat that uses a ball to seal the unit, There are different models and yours might have a Needle valve instead of this one. If thats the case there wont be a small ball as indicated by the next Pic. Remove the ball and keep it seperate.



Next step is to take the working valve apart, This particular model uses a allen head, Most use standard screwdriver Head.


After removing the socket head you will need a small pen magnet to remove the inner workings. This particular model uses 2 balls, the biggest ball on top and the smaller ball in the bottom seat. (keep these ball seperate from other parts) There will also be other styles in different models etc, Some will use spacers in between the balls and even springs can be found etc. Regardless keep track of how things come apart and in which order and you will be good.


The next valve to the right of the release is your overload valve, i cant tell you how many jacks ive had brought in that the only thing that was wrong was this valve had backed itself off and wouldnt let the jack lift the apropriate tonnage. Anyways First you must take the Dust cover off, Sometimes it will have a warning "DO NOT ADJUST" sticker on it. As you can see there is another Standard Screwdriver Socket inside the Valve, Using a small enough screwdriver so that you dont muck in the internal threads up. IMPORTANT****** First count the revolutions it takes to tighten the inside set screw completely down, On this particular jack it took 6. That is too many and as i stated earlier these do back off over time. If your jack was working fine except for leaking write down how many revolutions it took and upon reinstallation set it back to factory settings. If you dont remember or fail to head this warning 2 full turns back from full set is a good starting point. The overload is very important and is designed to keep you from overloading the jack and possibly rupturing a seal. This is why it is important you follow the tonnage guidlines and DO NOT crank this down all the way. There is NO way to set this Properly without having a Test station.


This is the workings of a typical overload, You will have a small ball that sits in the seat, A Upper seat with a tit to sit inside the heavy spring, Then top piece and as you can guess the tit goes down inside the spring and set screw tightens down on top of the flat. Sometimes theses are tricky to reinstall so here is a hint: Insert the small ball verifying that its is in the seat, Grab some wheel bearing grease or a heavy grease, Dab a little on the tip, insert into the spring and do the same for the top piece then drop as 1 piece down int the valve. Ive seen people get that first piece in there sideways and then when you crank the set screw down it damages things. Take your time and visually check what your doing.


Next you will need a Pipe Wrench or the apropriate Socket to remove the Tank nut. Keeping a pan handy to catch the oil.


Once you unthread the Tank nut the pressure will be released from the resevoir and you dissasemble.


And here we are at Paydirt, We finally got to the Ram Cup to verify what version we have. This particular version is the Oring sitting inside the Hollow Cup shell. It by far is the Most common found in 95% of your newer jacks and is Not the Best designed sealing surface, but it is Cheap.


Verify that there is no internal Damage, The jack was full of oil so there wasnt any Rust or Pitting. Looks Good


Ok now that we have the jack apart lets get working on removing the seals, 1st off lets remove the Orings on the Pump. Using a small Pic (I prefer the Snap on angle) Dig the Orings out being carefull not to damage the Backups, As they can probably be re-used. This particular jack has 2 Oring grooves machined inside, Some only have 1. If you have 2 the order of the Oring/backup is ORING on bottom in each groove and beveled side down Backup on top of the Oring. Lost? Keep Following?



Its hard to determine by these pics but this is a backup, Its not broken its split to allow easier installation. A back up has a flat side and a beveled side to allow the oring to sit inside and keep it properly shaped under pressure.

This Picture shows everything that came out of the Pump side.

Next seal is the Tank Nut seal, Using a Pic Remove this and set aside.
__________________
Im Currently not taking any orders or shipping Kits/parts. It's always best to patronize local business's when possible, if not available there are numerous online suppliers. Below, you will find a phone number to HPS .

Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247


I'm Not as Active as I used to be, No need for repeated PM's, Please be patient or do some searching, as there is a good chance your question has been answered previously.

Thanks for understanding

Last edited by Hiball; 11-24-2012 at 01:00 AM.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:45 PM   #2
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.


Next seal is the Main Ram seal, IMPORTANT***** Make sure you pry from the inside Out as illustrated, Do Not get into that outer shell on the sealing surface. These are Harder to find and generally dont go bad unless someone gets rough with them. You will need to inspect the sealing lip to make sure there isnt any splits, rough areas etc.

NOTE: I replace all these Cheap seals with Quality Ucups and Keep all the Common sizes in stock.


Once you remove the Oring the outer shell will slip right off. You now have your jack completely tore down and your ready to find replacement seals. I recomend finding a local Hydraulic shop and they should have everything you require. If your jack is Older 15+ years you might have a Ucup on the end instead of the one shown. If it has good suction and seal by sliding it in and out of the cylinder i wouldnt mess with replacing it unless it is extremely hard and showing stress cracks etc. Also dont try and remove it unless your intentions are to replace because they snap on and with any age they break off. Im sure ive left something out so if you have any questions feel free to ask and will get it figured out. Enjoy the Write up and i hope you guys can benefit from this.

Hiball.
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Im Currently not taking any orders or shipping Kits/parts. It's always best to patronize local business's when possible, if not available there are numerous online suppliers. Below, you will find a phone number to HPS .

Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247


I'm Not as Active as I used to be, No need for repeated PM's, Please be patient or do some searching, as there is a good chance your question has been answered previously.

Thanks for understanding

Last edited by Hiball; 02-16-2012 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:34 PM   #3
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.


hiball,

Thanks for the be best article on hydrolic jacks on the web.

I have small larin floor jack- do not know how many tons- and it stopped working,after it leaked oild when one day the piston came out. I tried to put hydrolic oil .
I opened the screw that was next to the piston, and noticed a heavy spring and a small ball that came out and fell on the table without my noticing it.
Was there another ball do you think in there which may have fell on the floor; which way the ball sits when you put it back? is that spring directional. when i put it in it went
inside the spring.
I tried adding oil and closed it and opened the rubber tap on the top and put more oil till it was flush. I filled it first with the piston compressed down no working than filled oil with piston comressed up no working. what am I doing wrong. Please help.
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:56 PM   #4
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joejoek View Post

hiball,

Thanks for the be best article on hydrolic jacks on the web.

I have small larin floor jack- do not know how many tons- and it stopped working,after it leaked oild when one day the piston came out. I tried to put hydrolic oil .
I opened the screw that was next to the piston, and noticed a heavy spring and a small ball that came out and fell on the table without my noticing it.
Was there another ball do you think in there which may have fell on the floor; which way the ball sits when you put it back? is that spring directional. when i put it in it went
inside the spring.
I tried adding oil and closed it and opened the rubber tap on the top and put more oil till it was flush. I filled it first with the piston compressed down no working than filled oil with piston comressed up no working. what am I doing wrong. Please help.
Always Add Oil when the Cylinder is Retracted (Down), Do you have a picture of the spring and Ball? Actual Picture of the Valve location where you removed the plug? If the Ball is entering the Spring you have something out of Kelter.
__________________
Im Currently not taking any orders or shipping Kits/parts. It's always best to patronize local business's when possible, if not available there are numerous online suppliers. Below, you will find a phone number to HPS .

Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247


I'm Not as Active as I used to be, No need for repeated PM's, Please be patient or do some searching, as there is a good chance your question has been answered previously.

Thanks for understanding
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:25 PM   #5
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiball View Post

Next seal is the Main Ram seal, IMPORTANT***** Make sure you pry from the inside Out as illustrated, Do Not get into that outer shell on the sealing surface. These are Harder to find and generally dont go bad unless someone gets rough with them. You will need to inspect the sealing lip to make sure there isnt any splits, rough areas etc.


Once you remove the Oring the outer shell will slip right off. You now have your jack completely tore down and your ready to find replacement seals. I recomend finding a local Hydraulic shop and they should have everything you require. If your jack is Older 15+ years you might have a Ucup on the end instead of the one shown. If it has good suction and seal by sliding it in and out of the cylinder i wouldnt mess with replacing it unless it is extremely hard and showing stress cracks etc. Also dont try and remove it unless your intentions are to replace because they snap on and with any age they break off. Im sure ive left something out so if you have any questions feel free to ask and will get it figured out. Enjoy the Write up and i hope you guys can benefit from this.

Hiball.



Tools used to dismantle the Jack.
I've been rebuilding jacks and cyls since the early 80's. Must be you do to. Good job! I've got a place where i can get just about every metric cup or seal. Any problems give me a shout.
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:32 PM   #6
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiball View Post

Next seal is the Main Ram seal, IMPORTANT***** Make sure you pry from the inside Out as illustrated, Do Not get into that outer shell on the sealing surface. These are Harder to find and generally dont go bad unless someone gets rough with them. You will need to inspect the sealing lip to make sure there isnt any splits, rough areas etc.


Once you remove the Oring the outer shell will slip right off. You now have your jack completely tore down and your ready to find replacement seals. I recomend finding a local Hydraulic shop and they should have everything you require. If your jack is Older 15+ years you might have a Ucup on the end instead of the one shown. If it has good suction and seal by sliding it in and out of the cylinder i wouldnt mess with replacing it unless it is extremely hard and showing stress cracks etc. Also dont try and remove it unless your intentions are to replace because they snap on and with any age they break off. Im sure ive left something out so if you have any questions feel free to ask and will get it figured out. Enjoy the Write up and i hope you guys can benefit from this.

Hiball.



Tools used to dismantle the Jack.
I've been rebuilding jacks and cyls since the early 80's. Must be you do to. Good job! I've got a place where i can get just about every metric cup or seal. Any problems give me a shout.
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:35 PM   #7
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave's View Post
I've been rebuilding jacks and cyls since the early 80's. Must be you do to. Good job! I've got a place where i can get just about every metric cup or seal. Any problems give me a shout.
I think Hiballs grandpaw started working on jacks when they were ratcheting mechanical jacks before juice jacks came out. Come to think of it, Hiball might be getting that old....
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:14 PM   #8
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

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Originally Posted by GeorgiaHybrid View Post
Come to think of it, Hiball might be getting that old....
Ouch! LOL

Hiball is still a young man. At least he was when I met him few months ago... LOL

Or maybe I'm just older than I thought....
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:07 AM   #9
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Super job! Thank you
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

thanks for posting that on this site. great info, but my jack has four screws on top to account for the foot feed. your article really helped me out for the most part. Do the springs have a preload, or do I just tighten them down tite?
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:08 PM   #11
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

never mind. I just read your help thing and got my answer. Wish I were the one to take this apart first. This really helped me out alot. Thank you very much.
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:54 AM   #12
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

I know this is an old thread...but thanks again hiball!!!! It just helped me out. I know you said it took longer to document than to do an actual repair for you...but when something can still help others after all this time, that was time well spent.
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:14 PM   #13
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

I'm new to this forum and not sure if my post ended up in the right thread.
Your post from 12-22-2009.
GJ 1 Wilmar Floor Jack
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:00 PM   #14
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Awesome thread idea Hiball,I'm sure there will be a large number of us who really appreciate the work you put into this.I know I do.I have a couple old jacks hanging around waiting for attention.
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Takes about two minutes once you have the shaft in hand.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:05 PM   #15
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

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Originally Posted by caper View Post
Awesome thread idea Hiball,I'm sure there will be a large number of us who really appreciate the work you put into this.I know I do.I have a couple old jacks hanging around waiting for attention.
Thanks, It took me over a hour to type all this up and only 5 min to dismantle that jack. Im just glad i can give back for all the info and deals i find here.
__________________
Im Currently not taking any orders or shipping Kits/parts. It's always best to patronize local business's when possible, if not available there are numerous online suppliers. Below, you will find a phone number to HPS .

Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247


I'm Not as Active as I used to be, No need for repeated PM's, Please be patient or do some searching, as there is a good chance your question has been answered previously.

Thanks for understanding

Last edited by Hiball; 12-22-2009 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:09 PM   #16
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Excellent information. Thank you for taking the time to document the internals on one of these jacks. Your time and effort is much appreciated.

Where do you add the stop leak?
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:10 PM   #17
Hiball
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

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Where do you add the stop leak?
No comment.. I dont want to get in to that again.
__________________
Im Currently not taking any orders or shipping Kits/parts. It's always best to patronize local business's when possible, if not available there are numerous online suppliers. Below, you will find a phone number to HPS .

Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247


I'm Not as Active as I used to be, No need for repeated PM's, Please be patient or do some searching, as there is a good chance your question has been answered previously.

Thanks for understanding
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:23 PM   #18
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

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No comment.. I dont want to get in to that again.

An excellent response from a cool operator. Good for you.
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:51 PM   #19
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

I have jack that looks like yours. Who makes this one ,what is model I don't know.Where canI found any lables on body. I need rebuilt plunger seeal but I don't know NAME for order parts.
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:19 PM   #20
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Default Re: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Greetings: It is 2/1/2012 and I have been reading your article on jack rebuild. I have a 2 ton Sears floor jack #328.12030 and it quit holding up and would slowly sink down. I read your article and followed it and when I got it taken apart, I found the main seal which is some kind of plastic to be cracked and chipped. The seal looks like a thick cup with no "o" ring and it seems to be made of some type of hard rubber or plastic. I cannot find the manual and the jack is so old Sears does not have any record of it.
Measurments are as follows, OD=45mm or 1.770", ID=25mm or .995", thickness =12mm or ,487". I was wondering if you had or know of some place I could get the seal? As this is my first PM I am not sure if I am doing it right. Incase it is wrong my email is tm0711@comcast.net. Thanking you in advance Tony
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