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Old 08-06-2011, 08:02 AM   #21
mpire
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnyperBob View Post
This one is a little taller with swing out doors on the front so you can put your mower inside:
This is the one I have. Its just about perfect.



Now I keep the mower, trimmer, gas, fertilizers, and insecticides in it. Its very versatile.

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Old 08-06-2011, 10:31 AM   #22
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Wow, it's great to see a real life garage on here. I would love to have a garage like BB 767 and some of the others here. Problem is you either have the time to work out there but not the money or you have the money but not the time. I have 3 little ones with all the bikes, power wheels and "general stuff" I find my garage in various states of "clutter". Keep up the good work! One day I'll try and post some before and after work.
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:42 PM   #23
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

How are you liking the race deck? It is one of the running considerations for my project. It seems that daily I am flip-flopping between porcelain tile, race deck, and just saying screw it and making a floating wood plank floor out there.
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Currently looking for the following vintage Craftsman tools:
1940-1941 Craftsman 101.02180 9" cabinet saw - link
1956-1957 Craftsman 12" Foley-Belsaw planer - link
1940s floor press model 103-0304
1939-1940 10" band saw model 103.0101
Also looking for a 1942 Craftsman shop vise:
http://images116.fotki.com/v693/phot...49_01PM-vi.png
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:03 AM   #24
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingnut65 View Post
But we’ve told the girls that they can’t date until they are engaged!
So if we ever have a girl, I'm stealing this
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Currently looking for the following vintage Craftsman tools:
1940-1941 Craftsman 101.02180 9" cabinet saw - link
1956-1957 Craftsman 12" Foley-Belsaw planer - link
1940s floor press model 103-0304
1939-1940 10" band saw model 103.0101
Also looking for a 1942 Craftsman shop vise:
http://images116.fotki.com/v693/phot...49_01PM-vi.png
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:39 AM   #25
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

20 pounds of stuff in a 10 pound box ! LOL but some very nice stuff !
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:09 PM   #26
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

iatros: This is a work in progress and will take time. Job and family keep taking my time, which make the Hideout completion further away. So, how's the 3T Garage coming?

flybefree: Shaun, there are many take off's on the 'Salt Life' theme. I've seen 'Salt Wife' and 'Swamp Life' (UF) stickers too. There probably are stickers like what you thought you read.

shopnut: Theme Park Central. Well, when in Rome... I figure that I have to have fun writing this to keep it from becoming a burden to write and even worse to read it. Besides, my girls were probably five before they realized that 'Cuzzin Goofy' really wasn't related to their dad's side of the family. Although he should be!

Dittle Fart Around: I still love your 58 Single and enjoy your posts. At this point, I'd like anything air cooled that actually runs - bus, bug, gia, 911 - anything would be great!
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:11 PM   #27
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

D.J.: Cabinets can have a life of their own. They just keep going from one wall to another. Just look in a Habitat Restore and how they just keep on living. And for the bobbers, it took me a while to find the pic with them. They are easy to use when teaching little ones to fish. Also helps so I don't spill my drink.

SnyperBob and Mpire: I've thought about the storage sheds you mentioned, but not sure I could get one large enough that I would need past the HOA. I have the mower, blower, trimmers and wheelbarrow and hopefully, the hand tools. And, sheds are out. BUT, if I build one attached to the wall with stucco on the outside and shingles on the roof to match the house, I'd be good. That is a consideration down the road. But I do like the simplicity of the one Mpire posted.

fullthrottle24: Thanks for the comments. I've been drooling over other GJ garages for a while, but have to accept that this is where I live now. I am just blessed that I was able to purchase a 3-car garage with the house. We do have plenty of 'general stuff' out there too - garbage cans, recycling, 2 bikes and 2 scooters. Hopefully I will figure out how to fit it all in and still have room to work.

Red Leader: Feel free to use the quote. The girls haven't tested me on it yet, but they are going into sr high soon.

I love the RaceDeck floor. I was impressed with with the customer service Jorgen, Kia and the others at RD provided. The product is great and fits my need - slip resistant floor that I can put down in sections while I moved workbenches, shutters, a VW and lawn stuff. Its only taken me 3 months and 12 hours so far to put it down. I still have 10 sf at the back door and some pieces to finish.

As for the durability and ease of installation that shopnut asked about, no problems with either. When I received the order, I was anxious to see how they worked. So I opened the boxes and installed the 2'x2' sections (packed that way for shipping) in the one bay actually used for a garage. I put them in the standard checkerboard pattern and added the yellow roll-up trim across the front. We used it that way for 11 months and had no slips, stains or fading. A rubber mallet is all that I used to install. To take them apart, I'll post pictures in my flooring post how my daughter took the checkerboard pattern apart by herself so we could do the whole floor. I got a gallon of RD All Purpose cleaner with my floor. Mixed up a spray bottle and hit the bad spots with either a damp mop or towel. No problems.

Vernmotor: Thanks. I don't even want to think about what's in the attic... Another 3-4 pounds up there, too.
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:52 PM   #28
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Space Creates Vacuum!

I’m not sure when I discovered this or when I started using this phrase, but it is true. Buy a house bigger than you currently have and when you move in, you don’t have enough room to put everything because stuff just multiplies. Clear off a table and the next day it will have stuff on it. And the workbench… I’ve never had it all clean at once. By the time I am halfway done cleaning it, the other half starts to gather stuff again.

This post will explain how a 6 cubic foot cabinet has been replaced with a 40 cubic foot cabinet and it is now full to overflowing. The space created with the new cabinet created a vacuum stronger than the cubic volume available… It just happens.

Sliding Door Storage Cabinet Build…

As I was surfing GJ one day, member ChristopherLutz asked how much weight some cabinets shown in the Family Handyman magazine would hold. The cabinets were about 10’ wide by 4’ tall 24“ deep with sliding door. There was even a picture of two people standing in the built cabinet. Here are the cabinets. (Thanks Christopher. If you had not posted that, I would not have this thread or my handy cabinets.)

I was impressed with the simplicity of the cabinets and how flexible the design could be. I kept this design in the back of my mind as being an option.

The Concept…

In planning my makeover and get rid of clutter, I decided I wanted cabinets to store items. I had to determine what I wanted to be stored in the attic for the occasional or seasonal use and what to keep in the garage for more readily accessible. Our folding sports chairs are used frequently by all family members and my goal for cabinets was to put them in and close the door. That may change in the future, but that was the goal on the size of cabinets I would need. The tallest chair is about 39” tall, so I feel they should be able to fit in a standard 42” tall cabinet with no shelves.

I must always remember that while I remodel my garage to make the ‘Salt Life Hideout’, I must also keep the Minister of Finance satisfied with her garage needs as well. One thing she wants is to be able to actually park her car in the garage. I never did understand that concept, but it is working on me. So, the layout I have come up with allows for her car in the left bay with both driver's side doors able to be opened. So, the cabinets can only be 60” wide, starting from the Kitchen door to allow room for my hurricane panels before the clearance needed for her open car door.



The top view of the cad sketch that I started with shows 42” tall upper cabinets and 36” lowers. I started shopping to see if I could get off-the-shelf cabinets that would fit the need. Both Lowes and HD did not have 42” tall cabinets in stock. Everything would have to be a special order and more expensive than the unfinished cabinets in stock. Also, any cabinet I purchase would most likely have swing doors that would open into a parked car. Not the best solution.

That’s when I came back to the Family Handyman cabinet concept. This is the inspiration and basic plan that I started with.


But, here is where my path changes to make things more complicated. To get the storage space I need, it needs both upper and lower cabinets. . I am building two of these at the same time, one over the other. To this sketch, I will have another set of doors and another bottom frame added below this frame. And, mine will only be two bays wide.

By making my own, I could go all the way to the ceiling. An 8’ tall cabinet (standard lumber size) starting from the ceiling would leave me 12” below it for my jack storage. The spacing of the verticals was loosely based on the existing studs in the wall. This gave me uneven cabinet widths, but that would allow more flexibility with the stuff I have to store in there. Since the spacing has the left side narrower, it became the storage for the chairs.

Always Plan Ahead…

The overall cabinet is 5’ wide by 8’ tall (1.54 meters by 2.43 m) and extends 12” from the wall. The spacing of the shelves was carefully calculated based on the size of existing bottles, cans and stuff that needs to be stored in it. This resulted in the top section being 45” tall and the bottom 51” tall. Bottom shelves were 12-1/2”, 11-1/2”, 11-1/2” and 11” clear. These sizes allowed the storage I needed. The vertical brace is 22” from the left and 38” from the right.

Since there is a vertical brace is a solid plywood panel, it made sense for me to split the doors into 1/3rds and allow about a 1/2” for overlap. The actual door widths were tested with cardboard samples before cutting the plywood. I also learned what direction NOT to cut thin plywood.


If you read though my current garage photos, you will realize that I don’t have a table saw. It is a luxury I just don’t have space for right now. So, for my woodworking projects are built with just a miter saw, a circular saw, a cordless drill and various hand tools. Maybe a little primitive, but its functional with adequate results. OK, these cabinets Rock! Or at least they will be when I replace the OOPS doors I made!


The Build…

Borrowed a pick-up to make a Lowes run. Went there because they had the Iso board I wanted to insulate my garage doors. That will be another story. All plywood for the sides and shelves is 5/8” thick and the doors are 1/4".
01

This is the wall that I started with. The space between the panels and the garden tools is the clearance for car doors. The 6 square foot cabinet on right will be replaced with a new 40 s.f. cabinet. That should be plenty for a while. Not!
02


Old cabinet and shelf over door are removed and studs are located. There are 4 studs on the right at the edge of the door and then 16” on center.
03


Because the drywall will be the back of the cabinet, I wanted to paint the wall before I started. The stud line was transferred to the top of the wall and nails were put in to mark them. I realize now I should have painted the wall and THEN locate the studs. Oh, well…
04


The whole wall is painted the lighter color tan that will be the upper wall color.
05


Then the 2x2 frame members were attached to the wall studs using lag bolts. Since I wanted to maximize the amount of storage, I moved the left side over 6” from the blue tape at the stud. I used a total of seven 3/16” Toggler brand heavy Duty Toggle Bolts (each with 238 lb load capacity) bolted into the drywall for the left side framing.
06


The top, middle and bottom horizontal braces will be pre-built frames that I insert and attach to the wall. Therefore I left a space in the verticals for a horizontal 2x where the frame will go.
07


Here is my very elaborate substitute table saw. I use 2x lumber as spacers off the concrete slab. The plywood to be cut is placed down first. I use another sheet of plywood as my straight edge that I clamped to the cut-ee piece of wood. I made sure my saw blade was deep enough to go through the plywood and not the lumber below in case they get turned and in the way.
08


By having two blocks below the cut-ee, when the saw breaks through the final inch, it is fully supported and doesn’t fall.
09


I got so excited at the way the cabinet was turning out that I forgot to take any pictures until the frame was up. This shows the top, middle and bottom frames in place with the outer two sides in place. The top and middle frames are all 2x2. For the bottom frame, I used a 2x4 for the front piece just for the added strength. If anybody would stand in it to reach higher, this could be a good idea.
10

Hold that thought... Be right back
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:57 PM   #29
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

OK, On with the build...

The top frame is mounted to the back wall and to the ceiling. BUT, this first had to be perfectly level to get the sliding doors to work.
11


Likewise, the middle and bottom also had to be measured off the top frame and be perfectly horizontal.
12


Here is the 2x4 on the bottom
13


Here is a close up of the bottom frame and how I cut the 2x4. This also shows that the left most vertical frame is actually off of the stud were the lag bolt is in the bottom. I figured that a cantilever that much shouldn’t be anything to worry about.
14


The side panels are just 12” wide, cut, glued and fastened. For fastening, I countersunk #10 wood screws.
15


The center panel is only 10-1/2” wide to allow the doors to pass in front. It had to be notched on the back at the top, middle and bottom frames. BUT, I realized at this point that the front horizontal 2x2 that the middle panel is leaning on had to be removed so I could get the middle panel into the frame. Luckily I screwed it in from the front and it came off easily.
16

See, it really does fit.
17


Here’s how it fits in at the top. The 10-1/2” panel also clears the 2x2’s.
18


I actually had to notch both corners on the bottom. This also shows that a 2x2 piece will need to fill in on the face of the bottom panel to support the shelf.
19


To get the bottom frame level, I had to use an old floor jack to get it level before attaching to the center plywood panel.
20


Here is where my OOPS occurred for the doors. When measuring the door sizes I needed and then estimating how to get the most out of the two sheets of 1/4” plywood that I purchased. If I could be creative in the cutting, I could save pieces for another project. BUT, it wasn’t until I installed the doors and let them sit that they started to warp on the grain line. See how the little voices in my head told me to cut the wood ACROSS THE GRAIN??? Well, actually I did cut two doors
21


Doors and shelves were painted on the floor on cardboard and some old 1x shelves. I actually used a 5” roller for all the major painting and a brush for cutting in.
22


Missed a couple photos along the way again, but this shows that there are 2x2’s added for the shelves to sit on. Shelves are not secured in place. In fact this top shelf was removed to fit my paints up there.
23


Here the doors are starting to be installed. The Front door MUST be in the front track in my setup. The two sides are in the back track. Forgot to mention that the door tracks are from our local Woodcraft store (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...-14-Doors.aspx, item 27Q02)
24


This shows that the shelves are 11” deep to allow the doors space to slide past. This also shows the 1x birch face frame that I installed to cover the door tracks
25


For the door pulls, I used 3/4” sliding closet door finger pulls. Please Note that the 1” pulls were too deep to fit in a 1/4” thick door.
26


Before I installed the doors, I rubbed the top and bottom edges of the door panels with wax from an old candle. This helps the doors slide easier.

Here’s how the 3-panel doors are able to work. The right door will slide behind the center one and the front door can slide left or right. It looks better with the face frame installed.
27


Here is the finished product. See how the doors are warped. They rub as they open now. BUT, I bought some 1/4” hardboard (masonite) sheets to make new doors, someday.
28


And this is how the ‘Space-Creates-Vacuum’ concept works… Build it and it will get filled. Quickly! Space for everything. Except there is no space for future purchases. I NEED MORE STORAGE…
29


To keep the chairs in place and not fall out, I installed a 1/4” rope with an S-Hook hooked on an eye bolt on the side panel
30

If anyone wants to build one like this, let me know if there is anything else that may be of assistance.
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:23 PM   #30
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Very nice headway, Wingnut65. You'll have that garage ship-shape in no time if you keep that up! Great idea to build the cabinet off of the floor. Florida's humidity can play havoc with wood - could some aluminum angle or channel edging be added to straighten those doors without having to redo them someday?

I was trying to find a good source for the sliding door tracks - thanks for sharing the link.
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Old 08-08-2011, 04:40 AM   #31
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Wingnut, bonus points for the Bucs chair!

And nice handiwork with the cabinet build. Looks great.

I had a similar problem with storing those hurricane shutters. Before finding some room in an outside closet behind my place, I was contemplating building a rack above my garagedoor to store them, like the one below that's used for pieces of wood. Perhaps something to consider?

I am determined to get everything OFF the floor, so a simple blower can keep the place clean!



And thanks for asking about my place... the struggle continues to get it emptied out and get things out of sight. I'm about to put an order in for some racedeck as well, maybe that will get me moving faster
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Old 08-08-2011, 04:45 AM   #32
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Wingnut Oh how I hate the humid air in Florida that warps your new cabinet doors! The air in Ohio would never have been so cruel. Neat build, like that the cabinet "floats"... good Salt Life tie in....
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:15 AM   #33
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

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Very nice headway, Wingnut65. You'll have that garage ship-shape in no time if you keep that up! Great idea to build the cabinet off of the floor. Florida's humidity can play havoc with wood - could some aluminum angle or channel edging be added to straighten those doors without having to redo them someday?
Thanks shopnut. I don't think aluminum angles would work as the tolerance between the doors and the shelves behind are tight. Anything added to the doors would need to be so thin to fit that they would be too thin for any structural improvements. Someone else on GJ did the same doors with Masonite and had no warpage.

flybefree: Not sure if the warp wacs beacause I temporarily leaned all the plywood against the wall until I could get around to building it, painting the thin doors with latex paint, or maybe our famous humidity. I know its a lot less in Ohio. Do you need some sliding doors in this size?? Maybe they would straighten out up there...

Quote:
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Wingnut, bonus points for the Bucs chair!
I am determined to get everything OFF the floor, so a simple blower can keep the place clean!

And thanks for asking about my place... the struggle continues to get it emptied out and get things out of sight. I'm about to put an order in for some racedeck as well, maybe that will get me moving faster
iatros: Go Bucs! I'd love to get everything off the floor, but my wall and ceiling space are getting filled up pretty quickly. My hurricane panels are big and heavy. I have a couple 10'+ panels on the ceiling. The rest are so big that each one is heavy and 1) I would need to strengthen the trusses to add a thousand pounds concentrated loads on the ceiling, and 2) it would take more than 1 person to get the panels up there and back down. With them against the wall, its a 1 person job with a hand truck and a cordless drill to get the panels installed. Work on a garage project is always a struggle. Let me know if you would like to see some RD installed.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:42 AM   #34
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Wingnut - looks great!

As I was reading about your leveling.....I became a littl concerned. How hard was this to do? I suspect my walls and ceiling are anything but plumb.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:28 AM   #35
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

Because you live in a gated community, I suspect outside storage is not an option. Being a fellow Floridian, I have the storm shutter storage problem as well. I started out standing them up against the wall in the garage, just like you. I wanted more wall cabinets so I stacked them flat on the floor on some concrete pavers. Walking past those razor sharp corners was too much of a safety hazard so I moved them outside.

I originally stacked them on concrete blocks on the ground next to the garage. Unfortunately water collected between the panels and they started to corrode. Now I have them stacked on their sides on a shelf mounted with heavy-duty tubular storage brackets (ladder and patio floor channels for the shutters store below the shelf). The sprinkler system and house water maiin are also down there.


I used all-thread screwed into the wall to keep the panels from falling off the shelf.


If I had to store the shutters inside the garage, I'd probably hang them under my wall of cabinets where I now keep the recycle bins and garage rags.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:58 AM   #36
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ChristopherLutz: Leveling the frame was not a problem. Before I tightened the frame to the ceiling, I leveled it out and jammed some popsicle/craft sticks to fill the gap. Tightened it up carefully and it was level. The lower level front to back, but I wanted to make sure it had the same space vertically to the upper frame, before I secured it with screws in the side panel. Bottom was not a real problem either, but by being a 2x4, and 12" off the floor, it was easier to use a jack than to manually persuade it level. The main point of those pictures were to make others aware that one frame relates to the others by having the doors slide between them. They wouldn't slide well if they weren't the same distance apart. BTW, thanks for your post to get me to build this one-off Family Handyman cabinet!

Bob Heine: I hadn't really thought about storing the panels outside. They would probably be safe out back, but I wouldn't want to buy them again if they walked. Your idea of a shelf with all the channels nearby keeps them out of the way and make them handy. Looks like you have them bolted to the wall. That way they won't blow away in a storm... Wait, never mind, They won't be on the shelf in a storm. Thanks for taking the pix for me. And those cabinets look great. I'd love to have a wall of cabinets, but my garage is about 2' too narrow. I should have made the builder widen the garage instead of the dining room, but I like to eat too.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:56 PM   #37
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

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OK, On with the build...

And this is how the ‘Space-Creates-Vacuum’ concept works… Build it and it will get filled. Quickly! Space for everything. Except there is no space for future purchases. I NEED MORE STORAGE…
29
Did you remove the handle to your floor jack?

Quote:
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To keep the chairs in place and not fall out, I installed a 1/4” rope with an S-Hook hooked on an eye bolt on the side panel
30
You might think about using bungee cords instead of rope. They are easier to put up and remove.

...and no matter what you do you will ALWAYS need more storage space.
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:13 PM   #38
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Wow...I really like that wall mounted cabinet. Nice work!
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Old 08-08-2011, 04:03 PM   #39
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Quote:
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And those cabinets look great. I'd love to have a wall of cabinets, but my garage is about 2' too narrow. I should have made the builder widen the garage instead of the dining room, but I like to eat too.
Wingnut65:
Actually, I have the same problem. Space between the overhead door track and the wall is only 7.5". I made eight cabinets from poor grade 1"x8" pine with 1"x3" nailers in the back. Each cabinet is 30"x30" so I was able to cut 16 identical sides, 16 tops/bottoms and 16 nailers. Home Depot used to sell door packs for their standard Mills Pride cabinets so I used those. Came with european hinges and plastic handles. Made shelves to fit inside the cabinets and mounted them on the same kind of pegs you see inside kitchen cabinets. Just drilled four 1/4-inch holes for each shelf position. A gallon paint can is 6.75" diameter and fits perfectly inside the cabinet, even with the nailer taking up some of the depth. I would use 1"x6" or even 1"x4" pine if the space was shallower. Deep shelves are like black holes in my garage -- once my stuff is more than one item deep, it's invisible (that's why I have a lot of duplicate stuff).

I realized that some of my stuff wouldn't fit in the 7.75" deep cabinets so there are two slightly deeper and taller (42") cabinets. Used 1"x10" pine for those and they are the perfect depth for shop manuals, catalogs and magazines. Home Depot carried door packs for the taller (42"hx30"w) Mills Pride cabinets so I avoided having to make those doors as well. The shelves in those cabinets are permanently screwed in place (they're ripped-down scraps from a dumpster expedition). The garage looks a lot neater with the doors closed -- I'm a hoarder trying to become a hider....


The original owner of this house had the builder make the garage a bit deeper so I have room at the back for some additional standard base and upper cabinets, Like most guys, my stuff expands to fill available storage space. By the time the counter top went on, I had to start on the wall of shallow cabinets.
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Old 08-08-2011, 04:17 PM   #40
couchmechanic
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Default Re: Salt Life Hideout

If you ever win a partial lottery you could install a tankless hot water heater? You and I share the same problem too much stuff too little space. Love the metal roller also, have some DiArco equip at my work. Really can't wait to see your next steps. Thanks

Last edited by couchmechanic; 08-08-2011 at 04:24 PM. Reason: comment too late
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