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#41 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 2,192
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mdbeck1: Yes, the handle of both jacks are removed. The orange HF jack has a 1/4" bolt to lock in the handle and still allow it to twist. I only hand tighten it so I can remove it and stand it up near the garage door track. Then they can both fit under the cabinet. As for the bungee cords, I've had some securing stuff and through time and the heat of the garage, they loose their bungeeness. If the chairs are not tightly held in place, the door will not close or will be stiff to open. Not sure they would work for this case.
A1an: Thanks, neighbor. Hope you've gotten settled in your new place. Bob: Some more nice pix. I agree that doors help hide all the clutter. I don't hoard, but I do have cool collections of 'valuable property' that I keep gathering! I like your cabinet set-up. My problem is if I would have that many, I'd fill them too. Having the full cabinets at the front would be nice to have. BTW, Nice rides you have. Love the engine on the C3. The C3 is my favorite and is on my bucket list. couchmechanic: Funny you should mention a tankless water heater. Its in the works. Behind the water heater is the Laundry Room. Earlier this year we had an opportunity to get a second fairly new washer and dryer for a song. My wife always wanted two stacing W&D's. So, when I ripped off the Laundry Room drywall for adding the plumbing, electric and vent, I had a hot, cold and drain lines pushed through the wall and capped behind the water heater. So, whenever the water heater tank decides to give up its life, we will go with a tankless and I get a utility sink. Problem is with these newer tanks, it'll probably last another 15 years.
Last edited by Wingnut65; 08-09-2011 at 09:24 PM. |
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#42 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,118
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Gettin' thangs done! I like it!
Great job on the cabinet build. Whats next?
__________________
Stop on by the Currently looking for the following vintage Craftsman tools: 1940-1941 Craftsman 101.02180 9" cabinet saw - link 1940s Craftsman-badged Darra James 12" cabinet saw - link 1956-1957 Craftsman 20" self-contained scroll saw - FOUND! 1956-1957 Craftsman 12" Foley-Belsaw planer - link ...and other rare/vintage Craftsman items! |
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#43 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 2,192
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Thanks, RL. Next up is a spray paint cabinet to fill a normally useless space...
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#44 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Englewood, FL
Posts: 206
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It looks like you have a high enough ceiling that these might help get some of the clutter off the floor:
http://www.hyloft.com/products-by-ca...g-storage.html I've got two in packages waiting for the right garage to install them in. Put all the holiday decorations into a bunch of Rubbermaid storage bins and get them out of the way. |
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#45 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,018
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Quote:
This is exactly what I have been looking for to get my mower out of the the garage. Still working on it...I am sure that will always be the case but I'm hoping I'll get more time to get out there and get stuff done soon. |
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#46 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,231
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Quote:
The mower handles have nylon lock nuts to hold the handles on, I drilled out the nyloc part and now its a snap to put in and out. I still keep the rakes and shovels in a cabinet in the garage, but I clean them after use and give them a coat of WD40. The garage doesn't smell like gas or fertilizer anymore. |
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#47 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,115
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New avatar, upgraded garage - you got it going on Wingnut65! Both look great.
__________________
The Committed (Shop)Nut - Working on the Lighting Control Panel and covering up the rafters (finally!) My cars: 1970 Chevelle // 1977 Corvette // 2003 Avalanche My bikes: 1972 H1-500 // 1975 H1-500 // 1984 RZ350 // 1985 RZ500 // 2001 DR650 // 2001 Tiger 955 // 2007 FJR1300 Mrs. Shopnut's toys: She's too modest Click to check out: The ASYLUM (w/ apt) //My City Garage // My parents' garages |
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#48 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 2,192
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1991Syclone: Great idea, but I've got a lot already happening on the ceiling to go and take up that much space. I will be having some projects where I need the head room. Besides, I've got a tall attic still to fill.
A1an: Those are great cabinets. I will consider them before I go much further. And for your shop, give it time... When I think I have my plans all set, someone posts another cool idea that I want to include. I've found that I don't find time for anything, I must make it. Set an hour a week, half an hour a night, just make some time for positive garage progress. At the end of the week, you could be 2-3 hours further along than if you wait for the time to come to you. Good Luck with it. mpire: You are disciplined! Usually I am thrilled if I can get all the tools in the garage before the rain. I really should treat them with WD40. I DID sharpen all my shovels last year! Does that count? shopnut: Thanks for noticing. Sort of an 'Inspiration' shot... I took the photo a while ago and tried to make it into an avatar when I started this thread, but the programs I have won't save it compressed enough. I had to use an online avatar maker. Works great. Now I want to work on the bus, too. |
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#49 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 51
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Ah, I didn't think about the weight issue with the shutters!
One recommendation, when I built my spray can rack, I wish I would have enclosed it! It's great to get all that stuff out of the way, but out of sight would have been even better. Thanks for the RD invite, I've seen some garages already with it, and I'm pretty much sold. Just waiting to have my Release of Funds approved by the Happiness Czar ![]() Whats the latest update on SaltLife?? I need some more motivation lol |
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#50 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 2,192
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Quote:
Quote:
Next up… Spray Paint Cabinet Build… In this build, I created a cabinet that fills what normally would be wasted space. Maybe others can use this concept to gain more storage for stuff. Not just any stuff, but Garage Stuff! Most time consuming part was the design and planning. Spacing of the shelves was based on spray paint cans. I measured all that I had and planned the shelf spacing accordingly. On my ‘Before’ cabinet, I had only one shelf for those ‘Bonus Size’ spray cans. Now I can fit them in. This is what I started with. Majority of the contents is spray paint, but if its tall or short, liquid or powder or dried solid in the can, it’s probably in here – paints, glues, stains, lubricants, polishes, etc. This cabinet was born out of necessity when I moved in and needed a place to store stuff. I made it from some 1x6’s I found in trash piles as other houses in my neighborhood were being built. A 1x6 will allow stacking of two spray cans deep. The door is a 24x36” single piece of plywood to act as a bulletin board if needed. 01 ![]() Here is the ‘Before’ shot. Besides the clutter, I just don’t like looking in the garage and seeing the water heater and the A/C unit. 02 ![]() Here is my plan to fix this area. I want to put doors across the water heater and the A/C unit to conceal it. (There will be a vented panel above the gas water heater.) But, someone here gave me the idea of putting shelves on the inside of those doors for added storage. Great! More free storage that doesn’t take up floor or wall space! But, the middle section is the A/C return air duct where THIS project takes place. (In the photo, the dashed lines are doors, pointing toward the hinges) 03 ![]() At the bottom, there is about 5-1/2” from the face of the plenum box below and the duct. 04 ![]() The top of the duct offsets to miss a truss. So, the sketch shows that I can only extend up to this angle. BTW, this is actually insulation wrapped around a sheet metal duct. It has no structural integrity and it’s easy to perforate. 05 ![]() Here are my supplies for framing this cabinet and the other two doors that I am planning. (Also, this was RaceDeck layout concept 1) 06 ![]() The left side will be the just the side of the cabinet and a 1x6 is fine. The right side will also be the hinge point for the A/C door. I used a 2x6 for that vertical to carry the load of storage shelves on the inside of the door. I added bracing in the attic between trusses and added plenty of #10 screws into it. This 2x will be carrying a load and needs to be secure. 07 ![]() Since the duct is not perfectly plumb, in order to get the top shelf to fit and the cabinet to be plumb, I had to pull the bottom out a little. 08 ![]() Nest step, the shelves… 09 ![]() Once I measured and marked the shelf spacing on one side, I held a shelf in place with spring clamps while I leveled them. I then secured with 3 screws per side. 10 ![]() The shelves are done and ready for the back of the cabinet. 11 ![]() Due to my spacing I needed, the top shelf actually went above the angle on the ductwork. So, I had to plane down the top corner to make it. 11 ![]() The doors are 5/8” plywood. I painted everything from a spare can I had. The wall colors will be painted on the face when the other two doors are finished. This also shows how critical my planning had to be. Since I will have the hinge side of a door on the right, I need these doors to open and not swing outward into the other door. So… 12 ![]() …On each door, I used 3 surface mounted hinges for frameless cabinets. First time I’ve tried these and they were not that bad. The hardest part was the doors had the Florida humidity warp started and they were not straight when standing open. I guess through time they have accepted their place in this world and have conformed to my wishes. 13 ![]() Here is the finished product! I wish it could have been bigger, but that’s all the space I had available. And remember… Space Creates Vacuum! 14 ![]() HINGE LOCATION NOTE: I must also note that I wish I had loaded the cabinet before mounting the hinges. All I did was to mark the center and then measured in from the top and bottom and mounted them. With these hinges, they need someplace to go when they close. Now, I can’t have tall cans where the hinges are or they will be pushed in when the door closes and jump out of the cabinet when opened. I learned that one quickly! If I would do this again, the hinges would be mounted immediately below the middle and lower shelf and possibly above the top shelf. But if you plan this in your shop, maybe you could use more traditional hinges that would not cause a problem. Thanks for all the great comments and ideas the GJ members have been offering. These are helpful to me and others. Now you have been motivated… Go Forth And Build! |
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#51 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,018
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I am stealing your air handler idea. I have the exact same setup in my garage and I've been scratching my head trying to figure out what to do with it.
Good point about allocating a little time each evening to the garage. Luckily for me I work from home so I can get out in the garage during my lunch hour when I'm not doing other things on my break. Last edited by A1an; 08-10-2011 at 08:08 AM. |
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#52 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,018
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Also...where are you getting your lumber for this project? Looks too straight to be from HD or Lowes.
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#53 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Englewood, FL
Posts: 206
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#54 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ohio/Kentucky
Posts: 986
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Wingnut...we have to end this warping madness...can you frame the doors with a little 1 x 2...maybe use some pocket screws to hold it all together and paint the frame with a contrasting color? Would something like that stop the warping you think?
Shaun
__________________
Hyperbole Alert! My AMAZING Mr. Jack Olsen 1930s Auto Bunker Geobarn Homage Build http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=110364 All Men are Created Equal...the difference is what they do after that. |
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#55 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Savannah, TN
Posts: 305
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Quote:
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My garage reorganization thread... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=108382 |
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#56 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 2,192
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A1an: If I give you permission, then it wouldn't be stealing, so I won't and you'll have to steal.
1991Syclone: Exactly. Took me a while, but I found enough for the project. flybefree: I think I am to blame for some of it. For a while, the only acreage I had to store plywood was leaning against the wall. That probably added the sag in the middle. These doors I really wanted a smooth finish. But a frame on the inside might still work. I will have this solved on the next two doors - they will be reinforced big time! ![]() Quote:
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#57 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The 2.0.6.
Posts: 183
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subscribed! nice work!
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#58 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 294
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Jeff, I've been fighting the Florida warping problems for more than 35 years. In my first Florida house I tried Masonite for the sliding doors and it was horrible. Not sure if it was the tempered kind or not but they were far more warped than your plywood panels. Mine were obviously too big (47"x48") but they actually bowed out - and in - to form an 'S'. I even put them in the driveway with 2"x10" planks and concrete block to try to flatten them. That's why my current garage has the laminate-covered doors. My next cabinet (for the garage electronics) will be MDF.
Those European hinges have grown on me over the years but I hated having the cabinet doors start snapping - followed by flopping - when the hinges wore out. Between the kitchen, bathrooms and garage there are about 120 hinges and every year one or two go bad. I hate to buy a whole new hinge when only the moving part is bad. I found Specialty Supplies in Pompano Beach, FL that sells the individual pieces. Every five or six years, I go there and buy a dozen pieces. The first set ran about $0.80 each but last time they were close to $1.50 each. Still better than paying more than $5. The store now has a web site: http://www.specialtysupplies.com/
__________________
Hire the handicapped - we're fun to watch! |
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#59 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Shawnee, OK
Posts: 73
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Great work! Thanks for describing in detail what you are doing. This will help myself and countless other newbies when we start building cabinets, etc.
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#60 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 2,192
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Ole Red: Welcome to the Salt Life Hideout! Glad you stopped by. Feel free to jump in any time. I can still make room for your Stude in there... Nice wagon!
Bob: We've had a lot of humidity this week, and I mean it was think - 4" yesterday and 3" today. For the doors, a while ago, I discussed with 28HopUp about the hardboard doors he put on his workbench and he had great success. Since my 1/4" didn't last, I figured I would give masonite a try. My biggest door is 21-1/2". Now that you bring it up, I may just store mine in the attic until I'm content or need to change back. For the hardware, I haven't had any problems with the ones in my house. Thanks for the info on Specialty Supplies - http://www.specialtysupplies.com/ I've got to save their address. I guess I wasn't aware I could buy just the pieces. I DID learn something new today! walker450: Thanks for the comments. Last edited by Wingnut65; 08-10-2011 at 08:16 PM. Reason: spellcheck |
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