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#241 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 154
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You could make that bracket out of a piece of tubing too couldn't you ZT, by just cutting out a little triangle and bending the portion left back into itself and welding that and adding the bottom piece...........absolutly the way to go and the best looking ZT....nice illustration.
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#242 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 154
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I too have one of those to do on a lower unit of a volvo-penta drive..........do you guys worry about heating up the guts and seals in there??
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#243 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 397
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Quote:
In order to get the most contact surface area and simplify the fabrication I would start with one piece at a time to ensure the best fit-up. Also, using individual pieces allows for the addition of internal ribs or gussets and any internal welding if necessary. ...but that is just how I would go about it. There's a million different ways to skin a cat.
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When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the United States you're standin' in...as to just how dumb you are. My Fab Shop |
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#244 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Between the PNW and the Emerald Triangle
Posts: 393
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Mine was far enough away no worries pull the plugs drain the lube, and if it goes bad I can use the (it was like that when I used it)
Glad mine is a jet sled...
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#245 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,151
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This was in my 12-Gauge thread. But hey, it was this week's homeowner's welding project. And sometimes even mediocre fab work can produce a nice product.
![]() These sconces came with the house. The wife thought they were too small, relative to the big sun face thing and other stuff in the room. ![]() So I cut up some leftover material. ![]() The plan was to re-use the arm part (although I would flip it, which meant tapping a new threaded hole), and also re-use the goofy old man face. Here was the test assembly. ![]() Then the welding. And the grinding of the unsightly welds. I used flat Rustoleum, which does a nice job of hiding metal-working sins. Here's a picture with an idea of the new 'proportion:' ![]() And closer in: ![]() The most expensive part of the project? The two $10 retro filament bulbs. Nothing fancy, but I think they pass the 'you wouldn't notice that something on the wall was made in the garage if you just walked through the house' test. Last edited by Jack Olsen; 12-01-2011 at 08:00 PM. |
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#246 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Turnersville, NJ
Posts: 1,833
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Quote:
I think with your input above and ZTFAB's help, I have a plan for what I'll be doing now. It's a one man show in my garage, and I need all the help I can get!
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My garage renovation: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=43030 My '54 Ford Resto: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=62416 |
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#247 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: manitoba
Posts: 91
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here`s a quick sketch i threw together, the first one is if you leave your suspension in the same location it is right now, the second one is if lower the suspension and graft it into the frame, kinda like doing the volare swap.
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Gil 55 f100chopped &modified |
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#248 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: WM louisiana
Posts: 1,031
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here was is my first welding project. i did a motor swap about 4 years ago. went from an I4 to a v6 in my DD sentra. the shorty headers never would seal up good with the y pipe and always blew gaskets and sounded like shit. sooo i did the next best thing considering nobody made a long tube and equal length y pipe for this car...i made my own.
started with this: ![]() cut the 2 y pipes to make one and tacked everything under the car. ![]() ![]()
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#249 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: WM louisiana
Posts: 1,031
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i had some serious problems when i got it out from under the car and welding in the open. it kept blowing holes through the material. i tried eveyrhting to fix it and then i realized that the wind was blowing really hard that day. i closed the garage door and everything was better. it aint pretty but its been doing the job for a year or so now.
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#250 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The thumb (Michigan)
Posts: 486
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Looks good, how about a pic of the car or vid of it running?
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Che·ap·five·point·O /ˌCheap5.0/ Show Spelled[Chea-p-five-point-O] Show IPA noun 1. Username create circa 2004 to describe a ridicoulous deal on a 1989 Mustang GT 5.0. 2. Not a cheap person. |
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#251 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: WM louisiana
Posts: 1,031
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my twins, good is on the left and evil is on the right
![]() all of the exhaust work will be redone soon on this car
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#252 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: MCBH
Posts: 453
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heres a rust repair job i did yesterday. cut rusted area out w/plasma, found some angle iron for the flush patch, welded it back and cold welded handrails back on.
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#253 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Land of Living Skies, Canada
Posts: 362
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So I was at the local Princess Auto looking through the "random bin" and came across a 1" box end wrench for $1.00! I know its "china made garbage" but for this purpose it was perfect.
Ive wanted to make a tig torch holder for awhile now, this is mine. Used half of a box end wrench, magnetic base, two nylon washers with a 1/2" o.d, 5/32 set screw and some 1/2" cold roll. Oh ya, 1/4" bolt to mount the base to the cold rolled. The washers insulate the wrench from the base so there is no arcing out! The initial idea was to tap the wrench and use the set screw to push against the cold roll, but who would have thought even a POS wrench would be too hard to tap. Anyways here are a few pics, please take in account all holes were drilled with a basic drill press so the holes are not perfect. ![]() ![]()
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#254 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Newmarket, Ontario
Posts: 2,558
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Nice job CAOS. That's better than what Princess Auto sells as a "real" tig/mig torch welder stand ... and I bought. I buy a lot of cheap wrenches from PA. I use them for dedicated tools for my cut off saw, drill press, polisher/buffer, tool stands, etc. I usually cut one end off and dip the "handle end" in Plasti-dip.
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#255 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 959
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Nice torch holder!
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When I'm dead I hope my wife doesn't sell my tools for what I told her I paid for it. Quote:
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#256 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Turnersville, NJ
Posts: 1,833
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Here's Round 3...
![]() ![]() I ran out of wire when I completed the fronts (I was using Lincoln's 0.35 wire). I ran out to Sears Hardware and bought some no-name crap - I couldn't get a good weld for the rest of the job - I'll be trashing this stuff ASAP. Here's the rear mounts, with 3/8" plates to reinforce where I cut in the tubing for "round 2": ![]() I was pissed how bad my vertical welds looked with the new wire. Same prep, welder settings, etc. Oh well - just more grinding for me before paint. How's this look? I have to make 2 more mounts for the rear bolts, but that should be easy.
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My garage renovation: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=43030 My '54 Ford Resto: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=62416 |
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#257 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Brethren, Michigan
Posts: 6,701
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They call them gorilla welds. they ain't pretty but look strong. I have seen worse in service and they held just fine.
First, I cant recall everyones details but I would say you could become a pretty decent welder for that type of stuff with a little help. What machine are you using? A lot of this work can be done vert down, poor ragged fit up and gaps can be your friend in many cases, with small machines 030 wire. With a 250 class 035 turned up about 3/4 throttle most structural to a truck could be down. I am not at my old computer and need to load some files on a new unit.
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www.urkafarms.com |
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#258 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Brethren, Michigan
Posts: 6,701
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Here is a little frame repair, ripped a couple factory rivets out, I didn't patch the frame really, just blew the busted bent out so it was flat and I could work on it, welded around the shock mount, at first I went, oh shit then simply clamp up and weld all around. I don't worry much about welding on these frames, its already busted and it was done by engineers, ha. I ran a big ole fatty on after to cover up some spiderweb cracks, hasn't give any trouble since.
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www.urkafarms.com |
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#259 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Turnersville, NJ
Posts: 1,833
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Quote:
. I'm using an Eastwood 175 MIG. On the rare occaisions that the stars align for me, I can get some nice looking welds out of it, but I'm learning every time I pull the trigger, so I struggle for consistency.
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My garage renovation: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=43030 My '54 Ford Resto: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=62416 |
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#260 |
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Senior Member
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My first Mig Welding build ........
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