Well I thought I would show my progress on my garage sale find Saylor Beall air compressor.
Here is the housing cleaned and the crank in it.
The crankshaft checked out within my specs. and in really good shape.
All of the misc. parts
Here is the cylinder barrel cleaned and ready for honing. It has two 3 1/2" bores x 3 1/2" stroke which equals around 33cfm at 100psi.
Cylinder head cleaned and ready for valves. But, it took three days of P.B Blaster + Torch heat + Hammering + impact + homemade tool too remove the valve caps. I HATE RUST
Here is the under side of the head. Some how a bolt got in there and out sometime in its life. But, thanks goodness for overkill USA made cast iron piston and head
Here is one massive 17" double v belt cast iron flywheel. Trust me it's not light by any means.
Valve spring from disc valve assembly. And if anyone knows where i can find a few please let me know because, I need to find some. I think it's a called a pyramid spring but i'm not sure.
My 3 phase paper weight that came with the compressor. But I think that I can/will make the magnetic starter work with a new 5hp, 1750rpm, single phase motor. Please correct me if i'm wrong.
And last but not least my Curtis 80gal tank after I wire wheeled, OSPHO, and painted it. I wasn't the most perfect conditions for painting, but for a air compressor tank I think that I turned out great. And the tag on the tank said that in 1984 it was pressured tested 200psi and passed and since the pump will only go up to 100psi I know that I "Should" be safe. And for all the safety police out there, I checked the inside of the tank and there was no pitting in the metal.
Now when I get my pistons back from the machine shop with new wrist pins and bushings in them, I will start reassembly it.
Here is the housing cleaned and the crank in it.
The crankshaft checked out within my specs. and in really good shape.
All of the misc. parts
Here is the cylinder barrel cleaned and ready for honing. It has two 3 1/2" bores x 3 1/2" stroke which equals around 33cfm at 100psi.
Cylinder head cleaned and ready for valves. But, it took three days of P.B Blaster + Torch heat + Hammering + impact + homemade tool too remove the valve caps. I HATE RUST
Here is the under side of the head. Some how a bolt got in there and out sometime in its life. But, thanks goodness for overkill USA made cast iron piston and head
Here is one massive 17" double v belt cast iron flywheel. Trust me it's not light by any means.
Valve spring from disc valve assembly. And if anyone knows where i can find a few please let me know because, I need to find some. I think it's a called a pyramid spring but i'm not sure.
My 3 phase paper weight that came with the compressor. But I think that I can/will make the magnetic starter work with a new 5hp, 1750rpm, single phase motor. Please correct me if i'm wrong.
And last but not least my Curtis 80gal tank after I wire wheeled, OSPHO, and painted it. I wasn't the most perfect conditions for painting, but for a air compressor tank I think that I turned out great. And the tag on the tank said that in 1984 it was pressured tested 200psi and passed and since the pump will only go up to 100psi I know that I "Should" be safe. And for all the safety police out there, I checked the inside of the tank and there was no pitting in the metal.
Now when I get my pistons back from the machine shop with new wrist pins and bushings in them, I will start reassembly it.
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