My Powermatic 1150 and Craftsman 100 thread

alan camby · Mar 2, 2013

Love showing off the junk i am curently working on. Have been wanting to do a DP for a long time. Something to replace my China Craftsman and get some slower speeds for metal.
So, I drug home 2 well used craftsman 100 Dp's and quickly found that I was going to need both in order to make one good unit. Paid $50 for one and $75 for the other.

What I really wanted was a large old USA industrial Powermatic or Clausing. Found a decent 1150 Powermatic for $350. This thing will get a total rebuild and a VFD so that I can get the slow speeds i want.

Here are the two Craftsman 100's

Here is the 1150. This is the sellers Craigslist photo.

These will not be getting the full restoration to the factory look. I will be adding my own ideas and what i feel are improvements. Colors will not be correct and there will not be any highly polished parts. They will be clean, functional and I will have no fear of using them on greasy grimy gopher guts (dirty parts :lol:

).

alan camby · Mar 2, 2013

Here is the thread that has the bearing I used in the Craftsman 100
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188628.

My down feed handles on the 100's were all bad. 3 of the handles were broke and the rest were bent at the threads (out of the 2 DP's)

Here is how I made some simple handles. Yes I did Check Mcmaster-Carr for a replacement rods but all were to short or to long. The black knobs came from Mcmaster and the SS bolts i had. They are 3/8-16x6" 18-8 SS.

Packard V8 · Mar 2, 2013

Good work. The Craftsman 100 will be handy for smaller workpieces and smaller diameter holes. The Clausing will be the horse for the large diameter holes, hole saws. You'll be glad you have both.

jack vines

alan camby · Mar 5, 2013

Today I received a new spindle/quill, pinion, spring housing, spring and collar for the down feed handles.
This is all for the 1150

Here the 1150 is stripped of most of the parts. You can see that the table is in poor shape.

Here is what the table looked like. It has some kind of epoxy maybe JB weld filling the holes.

I took a pick and dug out most of the epoxy, sure was easy. Don't think it was JB, since this stuff came out pretty easy. Used the sandblaster to get the holes cleaned out.
I have two choices that I see. Make a plate that goes over the top or weld and grind as best as I can.

metal1313 · Mar 5, 2013

what about brazing the holes?

alan camby · Mar 5, 2013

I want the repair to be as clean as possible.
Won't brazing look like a big smile on my table?

Trey T · Mar 5, 2013

Are you planning to mill using the Powermatic?

metal1313 · Mar 5, 2013

it will but i'd also be worried about stressibg the table with too much welding creating a weak point

alan camby · Mar 5, 2013

Trey T said:
Are you planning to mill using the Powermatic?

I have a mill for that.

The spindle of a drill press is not designed for that anyhow.

alan camby · Mar 5, 2013

metal1313 said:
it will but i'd also be worried about stressibg the table with too much welding creating a weak point

The side cast webbing has not been touched by a drill. The webbing under the table has seen very little abuse.

I am planning on trying the welding and if that does not work, will consider making a plate for the top.

Might just have to keep an eye on ebay for a table. Powermatic is not the only choice imo. Any 15" DP with a 3" column should work. I would only consider a USA unit though.

Davefr · Mar 5, 2013

I wouldn't take a torch to that table. If you create a hairline expansion/contraction crack from the heat then it'll crack in two.

Clean out those holes real good and use JB Weld or another high end repair compound like this:

http://beta.mscdirect.com/product/05451836

Then hit it with a DA to make it flat and smooth.

Old fashioned auto body dent repairs were often done using solder filler and then smoothed out. I wonder if that would also work?

If you eventually replace the table try and get one has rack and pinion table elevation.

RCStocker · Mar 5, 2013

metal1313 said:
what about brazing the holes?

Once you braze it you can not go back and weld it.

Weld in the wholes and take the top to a machine shop and have them surface grind the top smooth. My bet is that you can get it done for free.

I would grind it for you if I were close. I have a farm in Indiana West of Frankfort on 26. I flew in last night to go to the dentest and sign a new contract for leasing the farm. I fly home tomorrow night to California. I will not be back until June or July.
If I was going to be here longer I would tell you to drive up. I am only 60 or 70 miles from you.

evintho · Mar 5, 2013

Awesome job on the handles! I'll be following this thread. Can't wait to see how the PowerMatic turns out! I would go with what RCStocker's recommendation on the table or keep an eye out for another one.

alan camby · Mar 5, 2013

Just noticed that the new 1150A collar that the down handles go on are tapped to
1/2-20. My 1150 has handle shafts with 1/2-13 ends. Looks like i can use my old collar though. Want to save the old handle since the previous owner had them chromed and they are in great shape.

Still going to keep my eye open on a good used table. Put mine on the grill tonight for about 20min. Welded up the holes and let it cool in front of the 220vac milk house style heater. Used a grinding wheel to get close to flat. Then changed over to a 80grit flap wheel and got as close as i could without going below the surface. Attached some 120 sanding roll to a 2 foot or so piece of 2x2 square tube and sanded for quite some time.

I don't know, It is better then it was. Might still bolt a piece of plate to the top. I am just really picky about this table for some reason.
Yes this is MIG

alan camby · Mar 5, 2013

RCStocker said:
Once you braze it you can not go back and weld it.

Weld in the wholes and take the top to a machine shop and have them surface grind the top smooth. My bet is that you can get it done for free.

I would grind it for you if I were close. I have a farm in Indiana West of Frankfort on 26. I flew in last night to go to the dentest and sign a new contract for leasing the farm. I fly home tomorrow night to California. I will not be back until June or July.
If I was going to be here longer I would tell you to drive up. I am only 60 or 70 miles from you.

Thanks for the very nice offer :thumbup:

alan camby · Mar 5, 2013

I painted and assemble the Craftsman DP a week or so ago. It is done besides a motor.
Going to wait and see what comes up. The majority of this thread will be devoted to the Powermatic as I redo it.

Mohawk Dave · Mar 5, 2013

Alan, I think it is way cool that you put your own twist on things. (Get it, lol)

My stuff gets painted whatever color I think looks good...which is often black & OD Green.

Good stuff man!

Trey T · Mar 6, 2013

Besides the paint on that CM DP, did you do anything internally on that head?

alan camby · Mar 6, 2013

Trey T said:
Besides the paint on that CM DP, did you do anything internally on that head?

completely disassembled, cleaned, Sandblasted, and new bearings.
Bearings i used are in this thread.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188628

alan camby · Mar 13, 2013

Update
I am a little further along on the Powermatic.

Here is the column when I received the DP

After a lot of cleaning

Sandblasted and painted the base. Went with a darker green then Powermatic used.
I like the color better. What do you think?

454ragtop · Mar 13, 2013

Green looks great. How did you clean up the column?
Jim

alan camby · Mar 13, 2013

454ragtop said:
Green looks great. How did you clean up the column?
Jim

I used a acid rust remover and scotch brite to get the heavy rust off. I then used 3 steps of sand paper down to 400 grit on my DA sander.Then went over it with some metal polish. I could have gone to finer and finer grits on the DA. Really did not want to go to far. Feared that I would not want to use the DP out of fear of scratching :lol:

It is not like new, but now the table should move up and down without jamming up on rust.

Thanks, could not go back to that light green Powermatic used. Old job of 12+ years had everything in the plant painted that green.

alan camby · Mar 24, 2013

All the parts for the Powermatic are painted now

The old 3 phase drive motor ended up having worn out end bells where the bearings ride. I know a motor shop can repair this but thought It would be better to find a newer motor. Ended up finding and buying a Baldor all stainless steel washdown motor. It is 3 phase, 1 hp, 56 frame, and 1150rpm. So made a 1/4hp jump and went from 1750 to 1150rpm.

Here is the main casting.
Should go pretty quick at this point.

nine4gmc · Mar 24, 2013

looks good!

alan camby · Mar 25, 2013

Made a little more progress tonight.

Could not beleive how big of a pain it was to get the spring into the spring housing. Also took a long time to figure out how to get the snap ring on :eyecrazy:

Crazy as it sounds, this was the hardest part so far.

Before picture

Todays pictures.

alan camby · Mar 29, 2013

Made a plate for the table. the welded smile was still bothering me. So, decided to cover it up.

Here is what it did look like before the plate

Here is my plate.

I will remove the plate and round the corners a touch.
Later I will be adding a table lift assist to deal with the weight.

alan camby · Mar 29, 2013

Here is where I am on the pulleys.

I ordered a electrical enclosure and a VFD a few days ago.

MPOWERD · Mar 29, 2013

Looks great... The table your C-Man 100 came on looks almost identical to mine.

Are you still using it? If so how well did it clean up?

alan camby · Mar 30, 2013

The table model 100 was on a homemade table. If you saw it up close you would not be very impressed with it.

Right now the 100 is still waiting on a motor. My priority, at least in the garage, is to get the 1150 up and running.
The 100 will be getting a radial 5 cylinder air motor. Why... because I like thing different.

Thanks, Alan

MPOWERD · Mar 30, 2013

Sounds great... I subscribed for pics when the 100 is completed. You do good work!

Todd.Brock · Mar 30, 2013

Nice job Alan! I got lucky and found my Clausing repainted sanded, etc. I had to deal with a broached variable speed pulley set up. I was lucky I didn't have to really clean it or paint. I found mine for $150 so my search has ended for a drill press. The only thing I would trade it for is a powermatic! Nice build!!

I had to reassemble the quill return spring as well. I was wondering how bad it was going to hurt. somehow, I managed to not take a spring to the face. I like what you did to fix the arc of shame. That bolt on table looks nice! Sometimes you aren't happy with others mistakes!

alan camby · Apr 6, 2013

Had to make a new bearing holder for the variable speed unit. The one a previous owners made will not allow the pulley to go into the slowest speed without binding. It was also kind of ugly.

I am holding the old bearing mount. The new one is in the machine.

I made it out of a 20mm bolt, a 3/16" piece of stainless, a long coupling nut, (2) 1/4-20 flat head screws, a button head screw and a piece of 1/2" hose. I don't know why that hex head bolt is in the picture. :headscrat

alan camby · Apr 6, 2013

Today I worked on a mount for the electrical box and made a switch plate for the front of the machine.

Used a piece of 3" DOM as a jig.

Here is the column mount.

Here it is mocked up. Still need to clean it up and paint it.

Here is the controls for on and off and a switch to shut it off quickly.
The potentiometer will be mounted on the large panel.

alan camby · Apr 16, 2013

I made a little more progress. Think I am done with all the painting.

My 10 year old Sony camera finally stopped working. Sorry about the cell phone pics.

alan camby · Apr 26, 2013

Almost done. Just a few more small details.

These rings hold the cord for the magnetic light and the main power cord.

tarbellb · Apr 26, 2013

Simply WOW! details details details

Jack Burton · Apr 26, 2013

Great thread. Old machines with modern touches.

Can you rig a momentary footswitch for forward/reverse? I use that feature alot but I'm not sure if it's the motor or the gear train that's switching directions.

jtbinvalrico · Apr 29, 2013

So what's the skinny on these air motors? Is the speed variable? How's the torque? Thanks!

:beer:

alan camby · Apr 29, 2013

jtbinvalrico said:
So what's the skinny on these air motors? Is the speed variable? How's the torque? Thanks!

The air motors are my current pick for the Craftsman DP. (for those who are wondering where this idea will be used)

i am not sure on the torque but believe that they are very strong. The speed can be changed with the air pressure but my plan is to put a step pulley on top for speed choices. It might not work out but figured i would try it out anyhow. I have no clue what to use these motors for, so why not

All I know is that they are made in Japan and they have very few hours on them. They were originally installed on garage doors in a paint booth. Assume they used the air motors so that there would not be a spark around the paint mist. The company ended up never using the paint booth though. The motors set on a shelf for about 10 years and they wanted to get them out of the way.

Once again I apologize for the poor cell phone pictures.

The crankcase has a spin off cover

alan camby · Apr 29, 2013

Added a few more items to the Powermatic.

Someone is probably shaking their head and cussing my name, but yes, I relocated the factory name plate to the side of the belt guard. I figured that I don't need to stare at that serial and part number every day if the space could be put to better use.

Ended up putting a rpm chart made out of laminated paper there that corresponds to the display on the VFD. I will always use the variable speed Reeves belt drive for speeds over 370rpm and use the VFD for speeds under 370.

You can also see my Reeves dial speed markings. The factory label was for a motor that spun at 1750rpm. My motor is 1150rpm. I tried to find a replacement Powermatic label but came up with nothing. Actually these Dymo labels are easier to see then the factory label. It would be really cool if i could find someone to make a custom aluminum plate but it really would not be worth the cost that would go into something like that.

Also visible is my replacement scale for the depth gauge. The factory one had some bad spots and I did not want to put it back on. I used thicker 1/8" x 3/4" wide aluminum and found a scale sticker from Mcmaster.

My Powermatic 1150 and Craftsman 100 thread

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