Does anyone here own any one of the three Snap-on PH3050 series? I am having a problem but the experts disagree if there is anything wrong with it. Some say it is acting normal and others that it needs to be rebuilt. Let me know and I can PM you with the details. I'm beside myself if it is or isnt working properly.
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Q: Does anyone here own anyone of the Snap-on PH3050's
- Thread starter diyer999
- Start date
volvo92906
Well-known member
Yep. Air hammer with a quick chuck and rubber grip? I love it.
You pull the trigger and it has a lot of power. If it doesnt, you need to ask yourself "Is it used? Is it old?" I bought mine specifically because I used one and loved it. We use em at work for knocking out races and seals and old bearings. Not so much like the automotive guys knocking out balljoints and whatnot.
You pull the trigger and it has a lot of power. If it doesnt, you need to ask yourself "Is it used? Is it old?" I bought mine specifically because I used one and loved it. We use em at work for knocking out races and seals and old bearings. Not so much like the automotive guys knocking out balljoints and whatnot.
redwrench60
Well-known member
Why so criptic? Just post what it's doing or not doing and we'll help.
PS I have one.
PS I have one.
Why so criptic? . . . .
Why? Because I didnt want to waste my time typing if no one had one -- I hate typing
Ok, the model is the A version. If I point it downward it blows air. If I point it upward it works more often but not always. If I keep it horizontal it works intermittently, sometimes works, other times blows air. If I put my hand over the working end in the (barrel horizontal) it works all the time; but I have not tried that in a downward position. So, I'm thinking it is on the verge of needing a rebuild. Then I went to U-tube and a contractor has the first version (all metal handle) and he squeezes the trigger while horizontal two times and it operates each time, so now I'm convinced it needs a rebuild. Of course, I call Snap-on and they said it doesnt seem to work properly; and then I call one of their dealers and he thinks its ok. However, he might have said that to avoid any warranty issue (he doesn't know who I am). Then I discovered that some hammers are designed to be pushed to operate [possible safety feature], but if that is true, then the U-tube one is broken, which I doubt. Other than that I can hear something sliding around inside if I point it upward and then downward, back and forth like that, but I figured that is most likely the piston. First time I have owned one of these hammers so its all a guess.
Btw, this came with a beehive spring, and inside the spring is a part that is loose, referred to as a bushing. I purchased the quick coupler for the hammer, so, does this loose bushing also go into the coupler, because I can put a bit in the coupler with or without that bushing.
PS. Yes I set the psi at 90 and made sure it had oil. Under 90 psi, wont run at all. Although I havent tried the hand over the barrel trick under 90 psi -- should I?
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jrlp
Well-known member
This is a tool forum, there are thousands of people here with Snap On tools, and that tool in particular is held in very high regard here.
Bushing goes around the neck of the bit to give the beehive spring more grip on the bit, and prevent the bit from forcing it's way through the hole in the spring. It doesn't get used with the coupler.
So you're saying with a bit inserted into the air hammer, that when you press the trigger it doesn't start hammering every time? broke.
Bushing goes around the neck of the bit to give the beehive spring more grip on the bit, and prevent the bit from forcing it's way through the hole in the spring. It doesn't get used with the coupler.
So you're saying with a bit inserted into the air hammer, that when you press the trigger it doesn't start hammering every time? broke.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Some air hammers need the tip against something to get "motivated" otherwise the air bleeds past the tool bit when its half in/out.
Also, it is well oiled and is the coupler flowing sufficient air? How is your Air source/hose? you can lose a lot of pressure to parasitics...
Also, it is well oiled and is the coupler flowing sufficient air? How is your Air source/hose? you can lose a lot of pressure to parasitics...
MattPersman
Well-known member
My cp gun won't do **** with out a bit never tried it with my snap on. Jack up your air pressure 90 isn't much in reality
FunkyfullWidth
Well-known member
I've seen several snappy air hammers that act like that. sometimes you need to bump the tip in order to get em to work. I'd say it's normal depending on how often it happens, or how long it takes to get it to work..
What kind of tips are you using? Snap on or other?
What kind of tips are you using? Snap on or other?
Rezeppa
Well-known member
Yep. Air hammer with a quick chuck and rubber grip? I love it.
You pull the trigger and it has a lot of power. If it doesnt, you need to ask yourself "Is it used? Is it old?" I bought mine specifically because I used one and loved it. We use em at work for knocking out races and seals and old bearings. Not so much like the automotive guys knocking out balljoints and whatnot.
This is correct. I am also a heavy equipment guy but I work on concrete pumps and shockcrete pumps. I go through 2-3 air hammers a year (Until I bought my snapon). First as stated earlier if the hammer piston doesn't have anything depressing it the hammer wont work properly. you can not test an air-hammer without a bit in place. I am assuming you have never taken one apart but there is very little that can go wrong with one. The number one cause of failure is dirt. If you are afraid to take it apart spray an extremely liberal amount of brake clean in it then oil. The inside is just a piston in a barrel with vanes that let the air go from one side to the next. Snap-On makes one of the finest hammers made. I have rebuilt dozens of inline hammers and pistol grip kinds the second most common problem is a scored barrel and or broken piston.
So you're saying with a bit inserted into the air hammer, that when you press the trigger it doesn't start hammering every time? broke.
I didnt say that > read the OP
SKAutomotive
Well-known member
PH3050B here, they now offer locking chisel bits for better control. Just bought one myself.
jethro29
Well-known member
i own two of these,you need to have a bit in it and have the bit against something,if it works this way everytime then there is nothing wrong with it.
redwrench60
Well-known member
Alright, first up I have a PH3050 and the predecessor the PH2050. Both kickass hammers but this applies to most air hammers.
You do need a chisel bit installed and pressed up against work for constistant operation, then it won't matter if its vertical, horizontal or upside down.
Next since you have the quick change chuck you no longer need the beehive spring and collet bushing.
And yes you're right, it is the piston sliding back and forth you are hearing. It's normal.
Last turn up you're air pressure. You need 90psi measured at the tool under full throttle load. In other words the tool needs 90 continuous psi while in use. Your 90 psi at rest drops way down under use. Unless you have a SERIOUS compressor you won't hurt it.
You do need a chisel bit installed and pressed up against work for constistant operation, then it won't matter if its vertical, horizontal or upside down.
Next since you have the quick change chuck you no longer need the beehive spring and collet bushing.
And yes you're right, it is the piston sliding back and forth you are hearing. It's normal.
Last turn up you're air pressure. You need 90psi measured at the tool under full throttle load. In other words the tool needs 90 continuous psi while in use. Your 90 psi at rest drops way down under use. Unless you have a SERIOUS compressor you won't hurt it.
Back to all the responses:
Thank you all for your input. I did what most of you suggested and put a bit in, then it worked everytime, at 90psi, and down to 60 psi also.
Well, at least this is now consistent with what I discovered, that the "used" snap-on tools do not have the defects like the new ones do (another story entirely) . . . see ya'll next year, when I have a new problem, I rarely post, mostly read. Good tool forum/bb/website.
Thank you all for your input. I did what most of you suggested and put a bit in, then it worked everytime, at 90psi, and down to 60 psi also.
Well, at least this is now consistent with what I discovered, that the "used" snap-on tools do not have the defects like the new ones do (another story entirely) . . . see ya'll next year, when I have a new problem, I rarely post, mostly read. Good tool forum/bb/website.
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devoncoolman
Well-known member
Have the first version all aluminum handle. Had similar problem with mine. About 4 yrs old. It was doing same as urs but it also would do it under load would just blow air. Then fiddle with trigger then would work. Just sent it out 3 weeks ago to snappy for repair.
volvo92906
Well-known member
We run our shop air so high I have never had a problem with any of my air tools... Thats what makes forums like this good. If I ever do go back to a basic auto shop or something where the air pressure is way down, I may wonder why my tool doesnt work the same.
devoncoolman
Well-known member
We run our shop air so high I have never had a problem with any of my air tools... Thats what makes forums like this good. If I ever do go back to a basic auto shop or something where the air pressure is way down, I may wonder why my tool doesnt work the same.
Yeah i know what your saying. My father runs his air pressure at 175 psi. All his old pos angle grinders and cut off wheels work great. But they really are junk. If u dropped the pressure down to 120 they wouldnt be worth a damn.
Obviously you are speaking from experience. I noticed that a pneumatic brake bleeder I have runs way better when my compressor is at the max psi [125]. Its a rinky-dink Craftsman 22 gal. I got for free with another purchase, but it does the job to some extent, until the psi drops (I need a much better compressor, most especially a quieter one). The brake bleeder, which says I can use 175 max psi. I cant reach 175, but I if I could I think it would perform much better, cause I noticed that if the air bubbles are too far from the bleeder ******, like up at the MC, it cannot draw them down against gravity (there is a trick to get around that problem but that is another story).
Concerning your comment, I noticed that when I get brave and run my impact wrench at the max psi nothing dire happens. But every air tool I own has this same old 90 psi max warning in the owners manual, except the brake bleeder. So, why is it that forever we have been told not to exceed 90 psi, even on commercial air tools, like Snap-on, MAC, Matco, SK, I-R???
Btw, I'm not referring to Industrial air tools that operate at way higher cfms and use at least a 1/2" id hose, and often a 3/4.
Last question, it also seems that I'm always told to use 3/8 id air hose. But wouldn't a 1/2 id give me better performance ???
Concerning your comment, I noticed that when I get brave and run my impact wrench at the max psi nothing dire happens. But every air tool I own has this same old 90 psi max warning in the owners manual, except the brake bleeder. So, why is it that forever we have been told not to exceed 90 psi, even on commercial air tools, like Snap-on, MAC, Matco, SK, I-R???
Btw, I'm not referring to Industrial air tools that operate at way higher cfms and use at least a 1/2" id hose, and often a 3/4.
Last question, it also seems that I'm always told to use 3/8 id air hose. But wouldn't a 1/2 id give me better performance ???
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. . . Had similar problem with mine. . . It was doing same as yours but it also would do it under load would just blow air. Then fiddle with trigger then would work. Just sent it out 3 weeks ago to snappy for repair.
When I was trying to figure out what was going on with mine, a mechanic told me that the o-ring in the trigger housing often goes bad.
redwrench60
Well-known member
Don't exceed 90 psi......under load. In other words your regulator should read 90 psi with full throttle air flowing through the tool. It takes a good compressor to do it.
With the regulator set to 90 at rest it may drop by half under use limiting total power output.
With the regulator set to 90 at rest it may drop by half under use limiting total power output.