Whats the best way to repaint/restore a Snap-On Taco wagon

rsieracki · May 23, 2013

I currently have a thread on a Snap-On KR562A i recently aquired..

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199857

Id like some advice on restoring it...

I plan on using it in my woodshop as an out feed table behind my table saw with tool storage below

So I still want a good quality durable paint. I plan on sandblasting it in my back yard and primering it myself with an epoxy primer, doing some straightening/bondo etc. shooting it with a sandable/filler primer and then color. I bought a HVLP gun at hongkong freight the other day.

I’m considering either snap-on red (or similar) in either valspar tractor or rustoleum or ??? some other brand... just want durability and I figure painting it snap-on red will make a potential resale down the road (if i ever do sell it) easier.

**OR** after primer/filler etc rolling on rustoleum hammered in gray (matches current metal shop cab's)

My question is seeing as I’m doing this myself, have never used a HVLP gun, not sure on the top coat etc. what primer would be best? I read good things on PPG DP line but I really don’t know what the best option is. This project is likely going to 'drag' out over time like most DIY projects but id like to know what I can do for now to get me started and figure the topcoat out later. I plan to blast primer box frame/carcass first so I can put drawers back in a few at a time as I paint them.

Thanks,
Ron

jabberwoki · May 23, 2013

I used rustolium red on mine out of the spray can as well as their rattle can primer.
Came out great and the red is a fantastic shade.
All these were done like this except for the yellow locker and the upper Mac box on the left.

Modifieddriver · May 24, 2013

I always have a problem with Rustoleum drying.

I'd load up a spray gun with a good acrylic enamel with some hardener. It'll dry, give you a high gloss, and last a long time. Proper pre-paint prep is a key.

Aberdale · May 24, 2013

Just about any epoxy based primer would provide an excellent base for a top coat. I use PPGs budget line of Omni paints and primers. They are readily available at my local NAPA and provide automotive quality at a budget price.

'dale

afirover · May 24, 2013

I rhino lined mine 14 or so years ago bright orange and i love it inside and out

rsieracki · May 24, 2013

i thought about the rhinolining or some brand of DIY friendly bedliner but being as its for use in my woodshop im thinking fine dust would get into all those nooks n cranises of the texture.... im not certain of that though as ive never "touched" rhinoliner. i remeber i rolled a lining in an old pickup years ago and it was rather rough to the touch.

dandan111 · May 24, 2013

+1 on the rustoleum. If you thin it down and spray it I bet it would dry much faster. It doesn't look like you have much money in the project. I would use rustoleum for best bang for the buck. I have never tried to thin and spray it,might be real nice.
I know a guy that has restored a few wheelhorse garden tractors with rustoleum rattle can with rustoleum rattle can clear over the top. I would have never guessed it was a rattle can job. Looks automotive quality.

rsieracki · May 24, 2013

i just worry about rustoleums durability... i redid a KR555 a few years ago.. to bare metal, prime and paint in sunrise red and i have chips on the drawer handles and is barely had anyuse.

i know they make a hammered in red and when i rolled the hammered grey on with a foam roller on some other metal cabinates i felt it looked awesome. just not sure on overall durability. i plan on doing drawer sides and bottoms also as the box is pretty beat.

rsieracki · May 26, 2013

sorry to be a bumpwhore but im looking for more opinions

stltikn · May 26, 2013

If it were mine I would not sandblast it. I would just machine, hand sand and primer only the bare metal. Snap-On boxes have a good base paint. Just use lots of grease and wax remover and scuffed paint. Depending on the paint used make sure you have compatable primer. A clean well prepped surface is necessary and if sandblasting is your only option then go for it.
However, with all the nooks and crannies, sand will be coming out of that box for years. Into the drawers, slides, tools, etc.. I've used Snap-On paint and had great success. If you use Snap-On paint you will not need to primer. Do some more research on sandblasting toolboxes. Great project! :beer:

NUTTSGT · May 26, 2013

rsieracki said:
i thought about the rhinolining or some brand of DIY friendly bedliner but being as its for use in my woodshop im thinking fine dust would get into all those nooks n cranises of the texture.... im not certain of that though as ive never "touched" rhinoliner. i remeber i rolled a lining in an old pickup years ago and it was rather rough to the touch.

I rolled on some Herculiner on the back of my box when I did a repaint. I also rolled the inside of the drawers with it too.

EDIT; here's a link to the thread, easier than posting pics.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68893

May Pop · May 26, 2013

May I suggest Carbit brand epoxy primer. About 2800 west North Ave. in Chicago. Ive used it for over 25 years on all sorts of projects. Around 35 a gallon last time I bought some. I thin it with laquer thinner so it dries fast and ready to top coat next day.

Ron

ZRX61 · May 27, 2013

Once all the welding & straightening etc was sorted, I'd load it up & drive it over to the local powder-coater for a quote. I was quoted $240 for 2 colors on my Mac box (not as big as a taco wagon) but that came down to $80 in materials after I traded him some ammo that I got for free.

rsieracki · May 27, 2013

ZRX61 said:
One all the welding & straightening etc was sorted, I'd load it up & drive it over to the local powder-coater for a quote. I was quoted $240 for 2 colors on my Mac box (not as big as a taco wagon) but that came down to $80 in materials after I traded him some ammo that I got for free.

good idea. except for the trading ammo part.. i'll hang onto that for the appocolypse :pimpflash

is there a bodyfiller that can be used under powdercoating?

KenC · May 27, 2013

I really like Hammerite for durability, but limited color choices. And, really hard to spray well. I've used a small foam roller with it with success.

CudaChick1968 · May 29, 2013

rsieracki said:
good idea. except for the trading ammo part.. i'll hang onto that for the appocolypse

is there a bodyfiller that can be used under powdercoating?

There's a few fillers that are made "just for" powder coating -- ThermoBond3 et al. -- but with 14 years in the industry, none of them have ever impressed me. They're difficult to work with, shrink so much that additional coats and setup time are necessary, and don't really blend in with the surrounding metal after the coating is done.

I like Permatex High Temp Metal Filler. Though it's pricey at $12 a tube plus $8 shipping from Caswell for a 1-ounce blister tube (larger metropolises might find it where other Permatex products are sold but I live in the sticks), it's easy to handle, sandable, grindable, and good to 2,000 degrees so it's perfect for my purposes.

You can also use JB Weld but make sure you don't introduce ANY air into it while you're mixing the compounds. Air bubbles trapped in your metal filler turn into blow outs in your powder coating.

Hope this helps! Feel free to hit me up if I can ever help out with stuff like this.

rsieracki · May 29, 2013

Well I wish you were local, I'd drop my toolbox off in the morning.

So just for a comparison when I'm shopping around here for powdercoating what would you estimate blasting and powdercoating at?

CudaChick1968 · May 29, 2013

I bill by the hour but couldn't even venture a guess because I really doubt that I work like "they" do (i.e., blast, [then hopefully wash / dry / phosphate] and coat it).

I'd get rid of all the Tijuana beatings and dents and get the metal as close to perfect as possible ... remove all your handles and hardware and either powder coat or polish it (up to you) ... take the wheels off, clean everything, polish up the bases on the casters and regrease them if needed ... and then put it all back together for you and call you to come pick it up. But I'm not your average powder coater.

Seriously though, I'm in the boonies of Tennessee and count on the internet to keep myself fed. "Wutz power coatin?'" as the locals spit Skoal on my shoes ... so it would be like comparing country apples to big city apples. They'll probably hit you for at least $200 and probably quite a bit more -- that looks like a lot of blasting. But the dents and "character" it has now are going to still be there when you get it back from them.

rsieracki · May 30, 2013

id be willing to pay you for that level of service... i cant however pay the arabs for that much oil/gas for roundtrip drop off and delivery lol.

i figured $200-300 was about right. When i figured between a pressure pot, hvlp, and assorted chicom crop from HF i got the other day plus paint that i have yet to buy (ive also never sprayed before and have a 30 gal cman oil less compressor) id have about that 'into' it anyways plus a day or 2 of my time vs a few hrs for someone who knew what they were doing would be worth it to me... more i look at it i just wanna rustoleoum it but i know doing it right aint much more.

as far as good old boys spitting skoal on your shoes... i just about spit out a mouthfull of my crown on the rocks im enjoying when i read that :spit:

btw, you do beautiful work

jwhcars · May 30, 2013

It's a nice time to go for a drive to Tennessee. You would then have a box like no other.
Sometimes ya just have to say what the heck and do it.

BMWFatherFigure · May 30, 2013

Did not read every reply so sorry if someone beat me to it. I would media/soda blast clean and then paint with whatever you are happy with. Top I would paint and then fit an aluminum checker plate cover.

mindbllue · May 30, 2013

Carbit brand epoxy primer.Always have a problem with Rustoleum drying.I think its' very essential to have a box.

j p smith · May 30, 2013

rsieracki, I would be crating that taco wagon and use Fastenal to ship it to the "Redhead with a Hot Rod".
I am fan of powder coating and like the durability and how it cleans up. I wish I had more things in my shop Powder coated. Jeff

CudaChick1968 · May 30, 2013

Awwww, thank you gentlemen! I appreciate the kind words and all the support.

Even if the job doesn't end up here on my bench, I'm always happy to help out if I can.

rsieracki · May 30, 2013

Well... I've always been a fan of redheads

So Fastenal ships things? News to me... BTW its 369lbs per snapons website

CudaChick1968 · May 30, 2013

Now THAT'S a tool box! LOL

5-foot nuthin' and 115 pounds versus a 369-pound Snap On Taco Truck ... now you see why I take things apart.

If you do end up shipping it or other big stuff somewhere, check out LTL ("less than a load") freight companies. All you need are loading dock terminals at each end of the trip, such as a lumber yard, grocery store, etc. It's a lot cheaper on bulky, heavy items.

CudaChick1968 · Jun 1, 2013

rsieracki said:
Well... I've always been a fan of redheads

So Fastenal ships things? News to me... BTW its 369lbs per snapons website

Did you get my Private Message?

rsieracki · Jun 1, 2013

I did... I was a bit busy yesterday, ill get back you today at some point

CudaChick1968 · Jun 1, 2013

No rush! It was just kind of long and I wanted to make sure it went through. (Some message boards have a character limit but I'm not sure if this is one of them or not.

)

Whats the best way to repaint/restore a Snap-On Taco wagon

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