Sealing baseboard trim to floor or not?

NitroShark · Dec 18, 2013

I bought the trim below and was wondering what would be best. I never use a hose to wash out my epoxy floor but will use a mop on occasions.

One thought is if water would ever get caught under the trim it would not dry out and maybe promote rot? Or I could seal the lower edge with some type of caulk. Dicor makes a real good sealant for RV use, maybe that.

Any thoughts on sealing the trim to the floor and what to use or Just don't do it?

Shawn

JimVonBaden · Dec 18, 2013

I don't think you will have an issue since you are using composite trim. I don't think you need to seal it in your case. It may be hard to make it look clean unless your floor and trim fit snugly, in which case you do not need it anyhow.

Jim

NitroShark · Dec 18, 2013

Jim,

Funny you should mention that! I bought an $8 miter box to do the trim.. and guess what it gave me an $8 cut :lol_hitti

 So now I’m waiting for this Dewalt miter saw to arrive so I can do the job proper…. :thumbup:

Shawn

tncatadjuster · Dec 18, 2013

Please keep in mind that each environment is different, and requires different designs.

Unless I was putting water on it every day, I would not seal it.
As a matter of fact, leave as much space as you can esthetically tolerate.
Having air enter the structure at that point, on that scale, is a good thing. Wood can get wet as long as it dries out, relatively quickly. Wood that stay wet, rots quickly.

NitroShark · Dec 19, 2013

Saw will be here tomorrow... Anybody else care to share their thoughts?

Shawn

Ch3No2 · Dec 19, 2013

tncatadjuster said:
Please keep in mind that each environment is different, and requires different designs.

Unless I was putting water on it every day, I would not seal it.
As a matter of fact, leave as much space as you can esthetically tolerate.
Having air enter the structure at that point, on that scale, is a good thing. Wood can get wet as long as it dries out, relatively quickly. Wood that stay wet, rots quickly.

I agree...let it breathe as long as your not hosing it out.

Jim B · Dec 19, 2013

Just one more data point. I had an epoxy floor in my last house for 23 years. I have a nice mop bucket w/wringer and a good mop. I mostly mopped my floor but on occasion I got out the hose, scrub brush and squeegee. Not often but sometimes the floor got really wet. In my new garage I have a concrete stem wall but I've built a number of cabinets that sit on the floor. I still like to sweep and mop the floor but I still have the squeegee and hose. I think it would be nice to be able to hose the place out without worrying about the wood.

There are lots of sealant available and if you mask the floor you'll get a nice sharp line.

NitroShark · Dec 28, 2013

starting the baseboard installation now....

Question: What is best to use to fill in the brad holes from the nailer . since this is a white composite it won't be painted.

Shawn

bazzateer · Dec 29, 2013

Maybe use liquid nails or something similar instead? No nail holes to worry about then.

RSOllie · Dec 29, 2013

As above in the UK skirting is often applied with "grip fill"
You could have one or 2 braid nails just to hold in place while it goes off due to the long lengths you might be fitting
"Sticks like sh*t" is a favorite adisive of mine that I use here alot
It is honestly called that lol

bazzateer · Dec 29, 2013

My brother swears by it!

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=sticks+like+****

NitroShark · Dec 30, 2013

I'm just not comfortable "gluing" the baseboard to drywall. I am going to use brads.

Question: What is best to use to fill in the brad holes from the nailer? . since this is a white composite it won't be painted.

I have "goop nail hole filler" and "painters putty 53" anybody used either or have a recommendation for some kind of White filler?

Shawn

CNGsaves · Dec 30, 2013

For the brad nail holes, just use high-quality caulk that is color matched to the composite trim boards. Use a scrap piece of trim and see what you like best for filling the brad nail holes.

Likely too late now, but I would have sealed the trim to bottom of floor (and top to sheetrock) with caulk as well since you will likely be mopping down floor to keep it looking top notch. With sealed bottom trim, it would prevent dirt, debris, and water from getting behind the trim. Also, by sealing the air envelope this would help at insulating the shop.

Great looking shop either way ! :thumbup:

Kevin54 · Dec 31, 2013

For what you have as far as the wall going to the floor, or almost going to the floor, I would use a PVC trim....something like a 1x4 or 1x6, fasten it up with some small finishing nails or even a pin nailer, then run a nice bead of caulk around the bottom. That way, if you ever decide that you want to wash it out with a hose, you will have no worries about water running against the bottom plate. And even if you would happen to get some water, it will dry out. The only way it wouldn't is if you had water on a constant basis.

BTW...the floor looks great, and I hope I can get mine done at some point in life.

And when you get the saw and give it a small workout, you'll wonder why you never bought one years ago. Mt DeWalt CMS is my go to saw for almost everything, and I have got my money's worth out dozens of times over.

-Brent- · Dec 31, 2013

CNGsaves said:
For the brad nail holes, just use high-quality caulk that is color matched to the composite trim boards. Use a scrap piece of trim and see what you like best for filling the brad nail holes.

This.

Also, keep a couple damp rags with you as you fill the holes. Wipe off the excess and 99% of people will never notice.

hammlm · Dec 31, 2013

I love that saw and wish I had one. I do have a DW 12" compound miter saw, but not the slide version.

Your garage looks great. I would only be using the mitre approach on outside corners (and the only one I see readily is the stair post). For the four inside corners, using a coped joint would be a better way to go.

That being said, your composite material should be much more dimensionally stable than wood, so perhaps a good tight miter with a bead of color-matched caulk will work well on the insides for you.

I'll say it again --- Your garage looks great. Can't wait to see the photos with the trim installed.

NitroShark · Jan 2, 2014

Love the new Saw!

Got to finish the steps but here are a few shots. I used the “amazing goop” Basically caulk in a squeeze tube. Worked well.

Getting ready to do the other 752 sqft side next after I move everything back in here and setup..

Shawn

BJ42LX · Jan 2, 2014

I would seal both edges of the trim. If water never gets in it doesn't have to dry out. Little holes at the bottom aren't going to provide enough ventilation to dry the wall anyway.

This information is worth exactly what you paid for it!

And your setup looks awesome!

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