High Lift Garage Door Questions

Last year I purchased 2 new Ideal Doors with High Lift Options to utilize the 10' ceilings in my garage to stack two of my cars on top of each other with a four post lift.

Unfortunately work got in the way, as it usually does and I did not have a chance to finish the install prior to the weather turning on me. As the weather is getting warmer, I am getting getting back to finishing the install.

When I first installed the doors, I noticed that the high lift kit was not quite what I expected:

- Instead of breaking the doors back, Ideal took the tracks straights up above the header. This combined with full riveted tracks has the door so tight to the header I do not see how the door could open. Ideals answer to this was that I had to drill out the rivets and purchase bolts so I could adjust the tracks further away from the header/ wall.

- I also asked Ideal about extending the doors closer to the ceiling than 14". Ideal was unwilling to consider that option, and at the time the car I had would work with the 14" ceiling clearance. I have since purchased a different car which is approx. 4" taller and pushes my lift to the next lock, so I need to go up higher with the door.

I have come up with two different options to accomplish what I want. Both are variants on the standard high lift method of cutting the curved track and inserting a section between:

Option 1 appears to be the best way to go about the additional lift, as it would allow optimal clearance around the door header, and can be done cheaply. My only concern is the clearance around the drums, and the modifications required to the upper flag brackets.

Looks to me like they didn't send you a High Lift kit, they sent you longer vertical tracks and a larger radius horizontal track. Even if you drilled out the rivets in the flag bracket, there's no adjustment left.

I would try talking to your Door co, explain to them what you are trying to do, and see if they will work with you. If you're looking to raise your spring assembly you're will need new cables anyway. Good luck.

upndown said:

Looks to me like they didn't send you a High Lift kit, they sent you longer vertical tracks and a larger radius horizontal track. Even if you drilled out the rivets in the flag bracket, there's no adjustment left.

I would try talking to your Door co, explain to them what you are trying to do, and see if they will work with you. If you're looking to raise your spring assembly you're will need new cables anyway. Good luck.

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I think they gave me 1/2 of a lift. The drum and cables are where they should be, but the track appears to need some work. I have also already spoke with them a couple of times. Again they are not willing to lift to the height I need, nor are they willing to address any issues with the track aside from standard adjustments.

I have also reattached a portion of the sketch I did for those without Adobe.

Looks like what you are planning to do will work if the cables you have are long enough to reach the additional 6 or so inches. The one minor complaint I have about my highlift garage door is it doesn't break away from the door jamb quite enough and the window edge catches on the top jamb weather gasket when opening. It I didn't have the windows it would be no problem.

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pattenp said:

Looks like what you are planning to do will work if the cables you have are long enough to reach the additional 6 or so inches. The one minor complaint I have about my highlift garage door is it doesn't break away from the door jamb quite enough and the window edge catches on the top jamb gadket when opening. It I didn't have the windows it would be no problem.

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That is what I was expecting, only on a smaller scale when I ordered it. I have also been working with DDM to help solve this issue. My initial plan was to order the parts separate from the door thru DDM, but I let Ideal talk me into ordering their High Lift Kit.

Your drawing looks good to me but I would add the 6" section between the vertical track right before the curve where there is a break already. Much less cutting and drilling.

GreyOwl said:

Your drawing looks good to me but I would add the 6" section between the vertical track right before the curve where there is a break already. Much less cutting and drilling.

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Would love less cutting and drilling, but if I understand your suggestion, it looks as though this would not correct the issue I have with not clearing the header, unless you are still thinking that I add the angled back portion. I think the larger issue would be driving the door into the drums before the break away though.

The cable drums and torsion springs may not work so well if you add additional vertical lift. The more vertical lift there is, the greater the weight the springs must lift to get the door into the horizontal section of the track. Also when the door is open there is still some of the door in the vertical section of track, that additional weight must also be supported by the springs. You may also need a cable drum with steeper steps (larger circumference toward the outside edge of the drum).

Quick update for those searching. I did resolve this according to my sketch.

I want to get mine lifted so when im using my scissor lift i can have the door open. Whats it run to get them lifted usually? I have 10 ft ceilings.

cspcrx said:

I want to get mine lifted so when im using my scissor lift i can have the door open. Whats it run to get them lifted usually? I have 10 ft ceilings.

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Can't comment on cost, as I did the work myself



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OK thanks! Glad you got it worked out.

The cable drums and torsion springs may not work so well if you add additional vertical lift.

cspcrx said:

I want to get mine lifted so when im using my scissor lift i can have the door open. Whats it run to get them lifted usually? I have 10 ft ceilings.

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Several years ago I had 3 new Liftmaster 8500 openers, new springs and track extensions for a 10' ceiling was $2300 fully installed. My tracks run about 2" below the ceiling with just enough clearance for my 12 4' fluorescent light fixtures...

I have doors now but they hand down 2 feet below the ceiling. So I was looking at getting it raised so I can use my lift more easily. In my ignorant thinking it would just be the track, spring if needed and longer cable.