Starting utilities from house to garage and need suggestions

Big_Ben · Sep 9, 2014

I am in the stages of planning to run utilities from the house to the NEW garage. I have attached a rough sketch of proposed utilities incoming to the garage. My first line to get in the ground is my water supply. The distance between both buildings is roughly 120ft and going to use a 1" line. I have a constant pressure water pump in my well so volume & pressure should not be an issue.
I am looking for some suggestions:
1. Given I bury the water line at 48"-50" depth, should I still take measures to insulate to protect from freezing? I did give thought to corrugated protected insulated pex twin line as used in wood boilers, but I only need (1) line...
2. The biggest problem is how to enter the garage?? The concrete guys missed the call out on the print to place PVC to allow for future water. So now I need to core drill through wall and floor. My question is what would be the best solution for piping the water from horizontal to vertical then over to 2x6 wall and end with a wall spigot? :headscrat

over40pirate · Sep 9, 2014

If the plans called for it, and the concrete guy missed it, I would have him come back and fix it. You did pay for him to do it.

onefastermonte85 · Sep 9, 2014

I'm interested in how you do this. I want to run an outside spigot to mine.

BFBOB · Sep 9, 2014

Spigot?

NUTTSGT · Sep 9, 2014

You could literally use a piece of pipe to hollow out a pathway under the slab to the cored out hole if it's fairly close. To do it though, you'll need to be under the footer, which entails digging a deep hole along the outside.

One you make the path, you can use a frost free hydrant as the shut-off for the water supply. I'm guessing you are in a northern state or Canada if you're burying it 48-50 inches.

Bib Overalls · Sep 9, 2014

You, my friend, have a dirty, nasty job to do. I think dealing with the pea gravel under your floor is going to be the hard part.

You can actually open up a rather large hole in your stem wall/foundation without compromising strength. I would use a small rented electric jack hammer.

yucholian · Sep 9, 2014

Don't worry about insulating as long as you've below freeze line.
I just did this (before pouring concrete) and used an outdoor hydrant spigot placed inside the garage. I will plumb inside and connect to this spigot so if I have to, I can turn it off underground and not worry about freezing. As others said, have concrete guy fix it for you.

onefastermonte85 · Sep 9, 2014

BFBOB said:
Spigot?

Yes. I never won a spelling bee challenge

RossABQ · Sep 9, 2014

How deep is that gas line? Around here, it's below everything else.

Big_Ben · Sep 10, 2014

Ahh... Note to self, Spigot not Spiket. :bowdown:

Concrete contractor subtracted the error from my bill nicely. So I was good with it at the time.

Located in southern Michigan almost to Indiana line. So minimum depths required by code in our area are as follows:
Water - 48", Electric - Direct Bury 24" or In Conduit 18", Natural Gas - 12".

mgilde13 · Sep 10, 2014

I would suggest burying your power in over sized conduit along with coax, telephone, internet or anything you think that you may want in the future. In addition to those, run a few lines of strings to allow for anything in the future to be pulled through. Digging trenches ***** big time and you won't want to do it a second time.

nmk_61802 · Sep 10, 2014

mgilde13 said:
I would suggest burying your power in over sized conduit along with coax, telephone, internet or anything you think that you may want in the future. In addition to those, run a few lines of strings to allow for anything in the future to be pulled through. Digging trenches ***** big time and you won't want to do it a second time.

Low Voltage should be in a seperate conduit

bjcouche · Sep 11, 2014

I looked at your proposed plans but it doesn't show what you plan to do inside the garage. If your garage is not heated and is subject to freezing, I would recommend coming up through the floor using an outdoor hydrant as others suggested. You'll have to core drill down through your floor 48" on the inside of the garage. Then from the outside, core drill the wall horizontally (48" below grade). Then hope the horizontal and vertical holes line up.....
I did something similar with my detached shop, but I had the concrete guy's place 6" PVC in the poured wall forms. Then after the wall forms were removed there was 6" holes through the walls or routing water, electric, wastewater, etc. All of this came up inside the garage and was stubbed up in the garage _before_ the concrete floor was poured. My garage is not heated, however, the water line comes up through the floor inside a walled in and heated bathroom. Gotta have a 1/2 bath in a detached garage....
Brian

Big_Ben · Sep 11, 2014

I plan to spray foam the first 1-1/2" and fiberglass the rest of the cavity on the 2x6 walls. Blown insulation in ceiling. So with natural gas heat, I really didn't think a Frost Free Hydrant was needed, but maybe I should rethink that idea?? I really was unsure if a hydrant was used protruding through floor and plumbing back into the 2x6 wall was proper, and would it all drain back down to the hydrant weep hole or need to install a check valve?? Or am I looking at this the wrong way and open the hydrant handle and leave open (serving as a main shut off) and let all the other spigots and fixtures do their job.

To further a previous post... If core drill both floor and stub wall and I drive a larger pipe to keep the sand & pea stone in place, what would anyone recommend filling the hole up with with the hydrant inside place?? Would anyone foresee any maintenance needing to be performed on the bottom of the hydrant??

Our ground is gravel with a decent amount of large 3"-5" stones. I plan on using fill sand to fill the trench between conduit/piping levels to reduce any kind of damage from the stones. I am planning on running electrical in its own 2" conduit and running cable and network line in a separate 3/4" conduit.

bjcouche · Sep 11, 2014

If you are heating the garage, you don't need a hydrant. The plumber that did mine just came up through the garage floor with the plastic pipe. I haven't finished it yet, but I plan to just have a ball valve installed at the plastic pipe and then conect to the rest of the garage plumbing. In my case the water feed comes from the basement in the house, and the basement is the lowest point. I'll install a ball valve in the basement as well, but with a drain, so that if I ever want to turn off heat in the garage, I can just turn off the ball valve and drain the entire garage.

Big_Ben · Sep 11, 2014

bjcouche said:
Gotta have a 1/2 bath in a detached garage...

The more I keep working out there, the more this idea may become a reality sooner than later!! :thumbup:

boomer12831 · Sep 11, 2014

I installed a hydrant type faucet in my garage. I am very happy with how it works. I have heat in my garage but I do not keep it on all the time. When I wash my car or truck I have to make sure I disconnect the hose and drain it after I am done otherwise the hydrant does not drain and it froze up on me once. Where it connects to my water supply in the house, I put a T with a ball valve and then a piece of pipe angled down toward the floor. If it is extremely cold ( below zero ) for several days, I shut the supply off in the house, hook up the compressor set at 30-40 lbs. I bring in 2-5 gal buckets and place one under the piece of pipe, open the ball valve and drain the whole line from the garage to the house. My water line is deep enough but its just insurance and would save me alot of time should it freeze up. Ed.

Big_Ben · Sep 16, 2014

I started my excavation this past weekend and thought I would share a couple pictures of my progress. Excavator blew a hydraulic line with less than 10' to go!!

Oh well, I will finish later in the week.

tlmartin84 · Sep 16, 2014

Make sure to install an in ground shutoff valve close to the house. Ask me how I know...

tlmartin84 · Sep 16, 2014

I would saw about a 12"x12" hole in my slab, and dig down with post hole diggers. then backfill with 57's and cap with concrete, or just fill the whole thing with concrete. We have replaced several outdoor frost proof spigots. The tend to rot from the inside out.

Big_Ben · Sep 16, 2014

tlmartin84 said:
Make sure to install an in ground shutoff valve close to the house. Ask me how I know...

I was going to install a ball valve on the inside of the house just before entering the wall. Another is going to be placed on interior line just exiting the floor in garage. I thought that should satisfy any required shutoff issues. If you care to elaborate, I am all ears (or eyes in this case).

tlmartin84 · Sep 16, 2014

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262045

There is the thread

Charles (in GA) · Sep 16, 2014

tlmartin84 said:
I would saw about a 12"x12" hole in my slab, and dig down with post hole diggers. then backfill with 57's and cap with concrete, or just fill the whole thing with concrete. We have replaced several outdoor frost proof spigots. The tend to rot from the inside out.

Buy a Baker Monitor Magnum frost proof outlet. Water doesn't contact the steel pipe, just a PVC pipe inside it. Much better design than anything else on the market. less effort to open and close, and no seal problems. Simple O-rings that are easy to replace if needed.

Starting utilities from house to garage and need suggestions

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