2 Post Lift vs 4 Post Lift

Gunslinger99 · Apr 8, 2010

I have been reading around on this site about automobile lifts but haven't found a thread that discusses the difference between a 2 post and a 4 post.

For a few years now I always thought that when I got down to buying a lift I would go with a 2 post no questions asked. Now that I am getting closer and starting to think about the purchase more realistically, I am wondering if my initial decision is correct??

The main advantage that I can see for a 4 post lift is the storage feature, one car on top and one underneath and having 4 points of contact on the floor, possibly easier to install/use? Disadvantage cost seems higher and it has a bigger foot print.

I'm a DIY'r and will be using this at home, light auto repairs.

Seems to me the extra cost of a 4 post may be worth it as I can reclaim some of the floor space by stacking cars BUT am I giving up anything? Is a 2-post better for working on cars? Seems it would be in some cases.

I'm hoping someone has been through a similar decision and could provide some insight.

Is the main use of a 2-post lift for auto work and the main use of a 4-post for storage?

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

sirsloop · Apr 8, 2010

Why can't you stack cars with a 2 post?

Stuart in MN · Apr 8, 2010

The search function doesn't always work very well here, as there have been a bunch of debates on which one is better. It'll depend on your needs; a four post is nicer for storing two cars one above the other, since a car on a two post lift will have its suspension hanging down unloaded, which some people feel isn't good for the car if it's done for long periods of time. A four post is also easier to install since you don't need to bolt it down to the floor.

On the other hand, a four post usually isn't as good for working on the car, especially if you're doing brake or suspension work since the car is still sitting on its wheels. You can get a crossmember for four post lifts so you can use a to lift the car up, but it's not as convenient.

DavidTK · Apr 8, 2010

Another possible advantage with a 4 post lift is that many of them have casters, so you can move it around.

Busted_Knuckles · Apr 8, 2010

Yes, the search function on the site is less than functional, I usually use google to search the site.

It has become painfully apparent to me when this subject comes up, that most posters on this subject have either never seen, or just dont know what a "Rack Jack" is in reference to a 4 post lift.

Ive owned both two and four posts, and now only have a 12K 4 post Challenger with rack jacks.

Time and again, all I ever here is " 4 post is great for parking" and thats it. If it doesn't have rack jacks, then I would almost agree.

At this point in my life, you can not give me a two post for free, if that is what I had to use.

A 4 post kicks a two posts *** up and down the street, but it HAS TO HAVE RACK JACKS, TWO OF THEM!!!!, pnuematic or hydraulic.

For those who dont know what a rack jack is, its a rolling jack in the center of 4 post that lifts the car up off the rack so you can pull all 4 wheels. Then the racks themselves turn into a work platform for setting tools and parts, which is the bomb!

The 4 post is twice as stable, especially on larger vehicles, you dont have to crawl around on the F'in floor to set the lift points, and you can get in and out of the vehicle without obstruction (hitting a post). Oh, and you just drive on, and put her up, no screwing around, no dropping the car off the rack, because yo didnt get it right or an arm slid up a leaf spring and then dropped on the floor, can you tell I hate 2 post lifts?

Yes, it takes up amassive foot print, in comparison to a 2 post and here is the real reason I think most don't like the 4 post, cost. A new 4 post with rack jacks is probably 3 times the cost of a new 2 post of the same quality.

You can only appreciate a 4 post after working under a 2 post. By all means, if you have the $, and the space, do yourself a massive favor, and go with 4 post. I would also recommend buying one built with leaf chains and not cables.

The only thing a 2 post has on a 4 post, if you dropping sub frames out, as in FWD drive cars, then you dont want a 4 post. I work on light trucks and suvs exclusively, so I only have a 4 post.

I went through this with a good friend, he went and bought a 2 post (only told me after it was delivered), I installed it for him, when I got there to start the install, I asked "why didn't you buy a 4 post" to which his reply was "I dunno?", 1 year later I was removing the 2 post and installing a new 4 post. He really likes his 4 post, he damn near gave away the two post just to get it out of his shop.

If you look at the pics I posted, you will notice how the wheels are not touching the rack ? They come with vertical adapters if you need more lifting height.

mad57 · Apr 8, 2010

I love my 4 post and the foot print really isnt that bad, when its full or empty i just put it all the way up and the floor plan opens up again, i love it, i too only work on older stuff and can pretty much do all i have to do.

hilld · Apr 8, 2010

I went through this decision about a month ago and was waffeling between the 2 choices for almost a month. I have worked as a auto tech using both 2 and 4 post lifts, above and in ground, so I did have the experience of what the strengths and weaknesses of each were. I work on several FWD/AWD cars, so I need the openness to work on those, but also have a F350 crew cab diesel pickup (heavy). I did not have a need for storage, so that reason went away. While I do have a barn for the hoist, a 4 post hoist would have to be in the middle and block access as I have storage racks on the sides. One other issue I faced was that the pickup is fairly tall, plus the height of the ramps, I would have truss issues and would have to modify all of them, with the 2 post, I only had to modify 2 of them.

Cost was not the deciding factor, as I went with a Mohawk lift (System 1A), but I am happy with my decision. If I have to leave the vehicle up overnight or during the week, while at my day job, I just lower it to the lowest possible position (Mohawk lifts have locks every 4", starting 5" off the ground) so I can sleep better at night and not have to worry about an anchor/concrete failure.

To make a long story short, it is really a personal decision, depending on YOUR needs, not what everyone else's opinion is. I know this is not a 2 or 4 post endorsement, but you really need to think about what you will be using the hoist for, realizing that there might be times where one or the other clearly wins, but what about the majority of times.

Happy hoist shopping.

Derek

sirsloop · Apr 8, 2010

I've only worked with 2 posts lifts... seems good for me. Hitting the doors on the posts is a minor inconvenience. Getting down on the ground to set the arms is a minor inconvenience. Not having this massive hunk of metal 4 post in your garage is nice! A service cart or a rolling toolbox is a nice alternative to using the lift as a toolbox, and you don't have to remove all the tools from the ramps to get the car off.

I do see what you are saying about the 4 post though. That's a nice setup with the rack jacks, but heck ya its pricey. I think for a hobbyist... just having a 2 post rack is luxury. If this was your bread and butter, then I would probably give a second thought to a 4 post. It does seem like a most solid platform too. How stable is the car once its on rack jacks??

Busted_Knuckles · Apr 8, 2010

sirsloop said:
I've only worked with 2 posts lifts... seems good for me. Hitting the doors on the posts is a minor inconvenience. Getting down on the ground to set the arms is a minor inconvenience. Not having this massive hunk of metal 4 post in your garage is nice! A service cart or a rolling toolbox is a nice alternative to using the lift as a toolbox, and you don't have to remove all the tools from the ramps to get the car off.

I do see what you are saying about the 4 post though. That's a nice setup with the rack jacks, but heck ya its pricey. I think for a hobbyist... just having a 2 post rack is luxury. If this was your bread and butter, then I would probably give a second thought to a 4 post. It does seem like a most solid platform too. How stable is the car once its on rack jacks??

Like I said, you only can appreciate a 4 post after working under a 2 post, and BTW, Ive been doing this for 25+ years...bought my first 2 post (mohawk) in 1985. Its like the difference between a 21" walk behind mower, and a 35 hp Kubota diesel powered Zero Turn mower with a 72" deck, both cut grass and make for a good looking lawn, from the tool user side, they are hard to even compare. My first 4 post was a 12k Ammco, purchased new because I was afraid of dropping light trucks (I did allot of fleet work) off my 9k Mohawk (read that as unstable), some how I was able to do the mental math that twice the lift had to be twice as stable. Once the Ammco 4 post was installed next to the Mohawk, my guys would fight over the 4 post... as to who got to use it on what job. Nobody wanted any part of the 2 post anymore. So I saw first hand, that I was not the only tech that was exposed to a 4 post after a 2 post and didn't care for the 2 post anymore.

No, the runways don't turn into a "tool box", when ever you are doing suspension, brakes, bearings, ball joints, you have hand tools out that you are using on that specific operation and at some point you set your ratchet down and pick up another tool, and you either have a cart next to you, or you are walking back and forth to a bench or large tool box. The "runways" allow you to set down a tool, and lay out your rotor, bearings, seal, nut, washer, etc, like a work bench, except its right under you work. You don't unload your whole tool box on the runway, just whats needed at the moment, that you know you will need again before its over. Example, Lug nuts, hub cap, wheel assembly, parts, impact, flashlight, tools, torch, penetrate can.. and so on. And yes, when you are done, you put your tools away, from where ever they came....

Rack Jacks are as stable as the rack itself. Nothing moves. And yes, the 2 posts arms, and the post themselves are a major PIA (after you don't have to deal with it, it sure seems that way). To get into a car in the air on a 2 post to start it while in the air, is a Massive and very unsafe PIA. Not the case with a 4 post.

oiler · Apr 8, 2010

I've spent 20 years under 2 post lifts
latest one is a 12K rotary
can't stand 4 posts and wouldn't take one if it was free
big footprint,interferes with work,have to duck under it all the time,need 2 railjacks$$
buy a quality 2 post and you're set

sberry · Apr 8, 2010

My Mohawk 1A is super stable, not sure what kind of footprint the 9000 had but this is huge and is rock solid with light trucks on it. 90% of ours is brake stuff, wheels off work. Takes up 0 space in our shop design when not in use. I don't have a pic but did engine R&R a bit back on a mini van, super easy.
Knuckles has the 4 post experience I don't though, my master wanted this when we got it, but I don't have problems with not getting lift points secure. I can see the getting in the car issues, so far not a real big deal, but as for being solid, don't see it as a problem or unsafe at all. I see the Bendpak deals have a very small print on the floor though. This 1A is 6 times bigger.

manansal · Apr 8, 2010

interesting arguments on both sides. i do not have as much experience as people on here.

i just built my garage and i have one of each. i do not have those rack jacks for the 4 post though.

i have yet to do any work on the 4 post. i dunno if it would be worth the expense to get them.

i do have a jack tray.

hmm...maybe i should try doing some work on the 4 post and see how it goes.

sberry · Apr 8, 2010

I think the jack racks are a must for a 4 post, good for changing oil without them or for storage. I made some brackets to swing the air hoses around the columns.

Busted_Knuckles · Apr 8, 2010

Sberry, from what I can tell, the 1A replaced the earlier 9000 lbs I dont remember it having a "name", they look identical to the eyeball (I think it was nothing more than a name change). Same tower/foot, locking system, dual cylinder, leaf chain, etc. When I say Unstable, I mean E350 extended cargo diesel, F350 box or stake diesel, 3/4 Suburban 4x4, etc., so yes, at the top of the light truck scale, I don't like the way they "rock" on the lift. So I'm talking about trucks that where just a ton under what the lift was rated for. I rarely had a car on the lift. I was maintaining 3 delivery fleets, all most exclusively ford one tons, and some Ford/Step Vans that where duallys as well. That lift is still in a service today, as a primary lift in a buddies shop and it has not yet had a repair since new, its a good lift, I'm not knocking the lift in anyway. Just compared to a 4 post WITH RACK JACKS, its an apple/pear comparison, if youre without limitations.

One other note, I remember from an earlier thread on this subject, on this site, on poster wrote " Ive heard of guys going from a 2 post to a 4 post, but never from a 4 post to a 2 post.... so I know its not my imagination.

Clearly if you don't have the room (for the large foot print), the money for the rack jacks, or need to do FWD service that includes dropping the front or a rear subframe, its the wrong lift (4 post). However, if you do have the room, the money, and your not dropping sub frames,....I dont know why you wouldnt.

On that note, I would take a 2 post over a 4 post with out rack jacks. A 4 post with out rack jacks, is like a car without a trans, it really loses all utility, unless all your doing is oil changes or RWD transmissions. So when I see somebody talking down a 4 post and they have worked under a 2 post to compare, I can only assume the 4 post didn't have rack jacks. Otherwise I just dont get it, all ups and no downs...thats my 2 cents.

One other caveat I should mention, when I sold my Mohawk to my buddy, of course I got sucked into installing it, anyhow, we got to do it twice, the first lift about 3/4's of the way up, his floor let go on one side. So we got to unhook it, move the posts out of the way, cut, dig, pin, pour, re-drill, and re-set. If you guys are doing your own install and dont know how thick you pad is, try putting a heavy, not so nice car up on your maiden lift...best to find out up front if all is going to go well before losing something nice or expensive, just a thought, it does happen.

I managed to dig up a picture that shows both side by side...the picture is circa about 1990. The lift is really not that tall, at the time I only hired vertically challenged mechanics...they had a special going on them, 2 for the price of one....

sberry · Apr 8, 2010

I bolted a hanger to keep the ladder off the floor for storage but will likely fab something up at some point, still need to add some wiring yet.

sirsloop · Apr 8, 2010

manansal said:
interesting arguments on both sides. i do not have as much experience as people on here.

i just built my garage and i have one of each. i do not have those rack jacks for the 4 post though.

i have yet to do any work on the 4 post. i dunno if it would be worth the expense to get them.

i do have a jack tray.

hmm...maybe i should try doing some work on the 4 post and see how it goes.

sigh....

Why not get another 4 post with rack jacks. You'll have room for a new aston martin and a maserati then...

sberry · Apr 8, 2010

I have a ton of different equipment, some heavier trucks but only 1 one ton with box that I haven't picked yet, several 3/4 and lots of cars/vans. I had an irrigation pumping unit up the other day but didn't snap a pic. I made brackets for the mower but carts are easy with the factory arms.

Busted_Knuckles · Apr 8, 2010

sberry said:
I have a ton of different equipment, some heavier trucks but only 1 one ton with box that I haven't picked yet, several 3/4 and lots of cars/vans. I had an irrigation pumping unit up the other day but didn't snap a pic. I made brackets for the mower but carts are easy with the factory arms.

We used the Mohawk for a bunch wierd uses, like unloading a load of steel before I bought a fork lift, and swapping truck cabs, both big and small, I changed roll back wrecker body with it, and lifting whatever you could get under off the floor... I even used it a an anchor fulling pulling out body work with.

The picture was originally a polaroid... that's why its soo poor.

sirsloop · Apr 8, 2010

makeshift engine puller! HAH!

PurdueSD · Apr 8, 2010

I recently got a Bendpak HD9XW. So far i am totally happy with my decision. I too had a hard time deciding. In the end the 4 post was more useful for me because it serves a purpose when not being used as well. Effectively i gain another bay in my garage by being able to store vertically.

The guy that made the "4 post lifts are only good for oil changes" comment has no idea what he is talking about. (Pull a ******/ drive shaft/ cv-joints etc.) I have a rolling bridge jack that i haven't had a chance to put to much use yet.

Now, all this being said, if i had a bunch more space, i would have went 2 post... or one of each. Its amazing how quickly my 1700sq ft filled up.

sberry · Apr 8, 2010

I think if I was to expand a bit more on auto repair I might be tempted to go Bendpak 9 or something similar as a second lift, mainly due to cost. I do have a few customers but I cherry pick them and don't take everything thrown at me from everyone, I have enough of my own stuff. I bought the Mohawk because I had only one unit and to get some features, etc I would have had to go up a class so to speak so the price gap narrowed. It was USA and the pumping unit was made in Michigan. Had a lot to do with the decision.

bill9860 · Apr 8, 2010

I have a friend who has a 4 post and a Mohawk A7. He seems to always have a car on the Mohawk and under it (the 4 post is full too the lucky devil). When he needs to, he services his Suburban on the A7 too, though he does not leave it up there in storage mode.

keflaman · Apr 8, 2010

Gunslinger,

If I were to recommend one over the other, I'd say 2-post based on your statement, "I'm a DIY'r and will be using this at home, light auto repairs."

If oil changes, brake and basic exhaust work is all you'll be doing I think the two post will suit you fine.

Like everything else, once you have a lift you may be inclined to venture beyond routine maintenance and then...well, you know the rest.

Based on personal experience I am getting ready to buy a four-post lift, but another thought just came to me: I'm in my early fifties and looking twenty-plus years down the road I may not be as spry about getting down on my hands and knees to set up the arms on a two-post!

OldCarGuy · Apr 8, 2010

I’m a home garage mechanic and restore antique cars as a hobby. I started out with a single Stinger four-post lift for both mechanical work and car storage. For the times I needed to do suspension and brake work, I used a sliding center bridge with bottle jacks and jack stands. Over time I eventually purchased another four Stinger lifts for storage.

In building my retirement complex, I decided to add another lift for mechanical work. With the comfort zone I acquired using four-post lifts, it was difficult to even consider a two-post lift. But after much deliberation, I purchased a new 10,000 pound capacity Mohawk System 1. Mainly because of its’ massive construction and large footprint. I have since added a BendPak 10,000 capacity asymmetric. And feel safe using either one...

For the home hobbyist, and only owning a single lift. I would recommend a four-post with the auxiliary sliding hydraulic jacks. It’ll accomplish anything a two-post can, less dropping a complete stub frame of a modern car. The major advantage of the four-post lift is that it doesn’t need to be bolted down. And can even be rolled around on wheels. Plus you don’t need to get down on all fours to set the arms. This becomes far more important as one ages.... Take it from me! BTW, I highly recommend that you purchase the aluminum approach ramps over the standard steel ones. I keep the steel ramps stacked in the corner and only use the one set of aluminum ramps. You'll get real tired carrying the steel ramps...

Here’s what the door clearance looks like on a full size truck on a true asymmetric BendPak lift.

Gunslinger99 · Apr 9, 2010

keflaman said:
Gunslinger,

If I were to recommend one over the other, I'd say 2-post based on your statement, "I'm a DIY'r and will be using this at home, light auto repairs."

If oil changes, brake and basic exhaust work is all you'll be doing I think the two post will suit you fine.

Like everything else, once you have a lift you may be inclined to venture beyond routine maintenance and then...well, you know the rest.

Based on personal experience I am getting ready to buy a four-post lift, but another thought just came to me: I'm in my early fifties and looking twenty-plus years down the road I may not be as spry about getting down on my hands and knees to set up the arms on a two-post!

I hear ya there. I took some auto repair classes back in college and hated getting down under the car not to mention trying to figure out the best place to position the arms. The age thing didn't occur to me until you brought it up. That's a great point, thank you. I'm not far behind you in age, I think I am going to go with a 4-post.

One other thing that has always bothered me about a 2-post is my fear of the car falling off. I've never seen it happen or had it happened to me but I know it can happen. Didn't mention that to begin with and probably not a big concern in reality just has been kind of a phobia with me.

Man I love this forum!!!

Busted_Knuckles · Apr 9, 2010

Hey Gunslinger, yes it does happen, two guys working for me, dropped a 72 Buick Centurion Convertible. I wasn't present for the "drop" but some how they did not place the pads right and it fell from left to right side and then onto the one post while it was on its way up. It never really hit the floor because it was wedged from side to side. So it was not a conventional fall, like you would expect, which would be the front or rear falling. And it was only just off the floor when it happened (so I was told).

It damaged the bottom of the door and the rocker panel. It wasn't a big deal, it was my "summer cruiser" and I think I only paid $2k back in the late 80s. Fortunately it was mine.... and not a customers car, although I did have a tech drive a Taurus off the front of the 4 post and into the shop work bench. He had the trans out, put it back in, not sure I remember why it was on the 4 post. I think maybe he had a remote start switch on it, and forgot it was in gear, it started up and it drove itself off the rack and into the bench. The rack was on the floor, but it was still a problem (high centered on the "stops" at the end of the runways). I remember that needing repair to the bumper, grille and hood, the car folded up a shop "high chair", before striking the bench.

Good times! :thumbup:

mat_GTI-R · Apr 10, 2010

Anyone know about the 2 post Triumph lift distributed by National Auto Tools?

http://nationalautotools.com/nto9a-9000-lb-two-post-asymetric-automotive-lift-p-145.html

sberry · Apr 10, 2010

I just glanced at it, great price for light car work but I dont recall seeing it certified?

JerseyJim · Apr 11, 2010

It certainly is a topic that's been discussed a lot here. I gave it a lot of thought and bought a 4 post. My rationale being that I primarily wanted to store a car and being able to work on one as well would be a bonus.

A two post certainly provides better access to the bottom of the car. But a sliding or rolling jack makes the 4 post an acceptable alternative for the an amateur mechanic such as myself. I bought a single sliding jack because of something I read here. The jacks take up a lot of room under a car. You can remove a jack tray when it is in the way. But the sliding jack is too heavy to remove. I seldom have to lift both ends at once. When I do, I lift the back first then use the jack tray and jack stands and move the sliding jack to the front.

Four posts do take up a lot of room. It is a pain to walk around them. But if storage enters the equation, I think they are the only good answer. I've seen people use two posts for storage. Not a good idea. Especially with unibody cars. I had a couple Mustangs. The front ends would sag fairly quickly with the tires off the ground. If I had the room and the money... I definitely would have one of each.

Either way you decide to go... Enjoy your lift!

mat_GTI-R · Apr 11, 2010

sberry said:
I just glanced at it, great price for light car work but I dont recall seeing it certified?

Researching this lift... all im seeing is ISO 9001

Debating on a MaxJax or a Triumph

jpoint · Apr 12, 2010

Don't know if price would push you but American Automotive has their SS8000 4 posts for $1595 one day (they say) Monday April 12th. I do light repair and track prep on my 4 posts.

TireTracks · Apr 12, 2010

sirsloop said:
sigh.... Why not get another 4 post with rack jacks. You'll have room for a new aston martin and a maserati then...

I wish i was rich.

mat_GTI-R · Apr 12, 2010

jpoint said:
Don't know if price would push you but American Automotive has their SS8000 4 posts for $1595 one day (they say) Monday April 12th. I do light repair and track prep on my 4 posts.

Thanks for the info, but in my case, a 2 post would better meet my needs.

dawg · Apr 12, 2010

sirsloop said:
Why can't you stack cars with a 2 post?

oh yes you can if you have a good one!!!!!

wormwood · Apr 12, 2010

I bought a Backyard Buddy (goofy name, I know).

It is strong, well engineered and American made.

I'd recommend it highly.

<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/862309/dm1.jpg">

69daytona4me · Dec 30, 2013

I’ve been doing some research on getting a 2 post versus a 4 post lift and I found this thread. Very good information. For my purposes, I am going to go with a 4 post. I like the stability of the 4 post – especially since I have a F350 diesel Crew Cab that will be on the lift from time to time. I also like having the option of moving it if necessary. Additionally, I have an in floor heating system. I’d likely drill into one of the heating tubes if I put in a 2 post.

Now I have to decide on size of lift (the F350 is the largest vehicle that will be serviced) and the manufacturer. In the limited research I’ve done, I’ve noticed that most lifts require 220 power. I only have 220 in one spot of my garage currently. I could have it wired for 220 where I plan to put the lift, but it would be really nice if there was a manufacturer that used standard 110. I expect the lift would be slower, but this is for hobby use – speed is not a real concern. My primary concerns are safety, durability, access to parts 10 years from now when something breaks, and optional equipment (I’d really like to get a rack jack and casters so it can me moved).

Any input on what size I should get and manufacturers I should consider would be appreciated.

LWW · Dec 30, 2013

The BendPak HD9 and it's variants have a 110v Power Unit as a no-charge option.

http://www.asedeals.com/car-lifts/f...ra-wide-long-runway-9-000-lb-capacity-hd-9xl/

Jagmandave · Dec 30, 2013

Well, like a couple have posted.....a lot depends on what you're going to be working on.

4 post lifts are of little use on modern front drive cars, where two posts or even a good scissor lift will do well.

But it you're going to be working on large pickups, the stability of a 4 post might be better.

I teach automotive courses at the local college, and we have a full complement of all types - scissor, 4 post, two post asymmetric, two post in ground and so on. The two post in ground and 4 post are designated for large trucks, all the others are used on anything else.

We have two Rotary scissor lifts and they work well on unibody cars, not worth a damn on Explorers, Blazers, small pickups and the like where the two posts are the right call.

In my garage I'd be fine with a two post asymmetric as most of what I work on are smaller imports, a four post would be in the way and of no advantage.

nehog · Dec 30, 2013

sirsloop said:
Why can't you stack cars with a 2 post?

You can. Some people don't like to, but it works OK for those of use who do it. My VW spends much of its winter on top, with the Saab under. There are claims that suspension droop will distort bushings, etc, however my take on that is that bushings get just as distorted with the vehicle's weight on them as they do with the weight of the suspension on them (and a suspension weighs much less than a vehicle.)

69daytona4me · Dec 31, 2013

I appreciate the input regarding the 2 post, but I really think a 4 is the best option as I have in floor heat. I know I would drill into a heating tube with a 2 post. That would be a disaster. Having the option of moving it would be helpful in my shop too. Not worrying about it tipping with my F350 diesel on it is the clincher.

Outside of Bend Pak, are there any manufacturers I should consider? Bend Pak's rack jack costs nearly $1000. That seems really pricing, but I've never seen one. Is it worth that kind of money or are they making their money on the options more so that the lift itself?

2 Post Lift vs 4 Post Lift

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