Vise restoration procedures, techniques, and parts acquisition...

[mjozefow]

Alright, this is meant to be a thread about the general procedures for restoring vises. It is not the only way it is done, but it is the way I feel is most efficient. Perhaps more importantly though, is that people will be able to see how they come apart, so that there will be fewer specific questions in the "General Tool Discussion" forum. A vise can be a great restoration project, due to their relative simplicity. The end result is a beautiful, functional, and rugged tool. This thread is designed to lessen the number of head-scratching moments.

I will organize this into "Types" of vises as I see them. These include the exposed screw vises, the rectangular slide vises, the stamped steel slide vises, and the Wilton's. These are not universal, it is just how they seem to fit into my head.

"Exposed screw" Vises:

I will be using Selkirk's Littlestown vise for this. He has asked me to restore it for him, so I hope he doesn't mind it being used for demonstration purposes.



1. Unscrew the dynamic jaw all the way.



2. There will be either an E-clip, a crimped on ring, or a cotter-pinned washer in a groove on the leadscrew. Remove it. Try to bend things as little as possible, and remove the crimped rings over the rest of the screw, don't pull them straight off.


3. Remove the leadscrew.

4. Remove the swivel base if so equipped.



5. The main nut will either slide right out now, or it may be pinned in. Drive out the pin from below if it is pinned.

6. Remove the jaw inserts. I use an old screwdriver sharpened to a chisel-like point. If they use two screw and a pin like the Shop King pictured, then work the jaws of slowly, concentrating in the center.



7. Blast

8. Polish slide 9. Prime/paint/lube/ reassemble/enjoy!

"Rectangular Slide" Vises:

Perhaps the most common we see in the vise category. These are the workhorses of the industry.

I'll be demonstrating between a Prentiss and a Rock Island. I'll need good Reed pics, so Banjo can bring in some of those.




1. Remove the dynamic jaw assembly. This often is the most difficult step.

1a. Check the rear of the slide for deformation, and file as needed.



Once you are sure it is not binding, you can spread the jaws apart:



Or you can hold the static side static, and hammer the dynamic slide out with a lead/brass/deadblow hammer. A vise helps when restoring vises. So everyone needs at least two. Again, they should separate fairly easily, otherwise, refer to 1a.



Or you can pry/wedge the two apart with 2x material.

If you need more force than this, refer to step 1a. Sometimes they will simply slide apart and none of this is needed.

2. Remove the leadscrew. Some prefer to do this before removing the dynamic jaw. It is your call, sometimes it is nice to be able to pull on the handle A BIT (keep in mind, pulling too hard on the leadscrew is bad, as you will be pulling opposite the direction of greater strength.

The anti-reversal machanisms are usually one of these three.

A front collar, this is an older style favored in most (maybe all?) Parkers and Wiltons. Others too I would imagine. This is A_Pmech's Ridgid 4" swivel vise.



A shaft collar, as this Rock Island has:



A split nut found in most Reeds.


Whatever the mechanism, remove/loosen it and take the leadscrew out.

3. Take the swivel base off if it has one.

This is pretty straight forward. Unscrew everything connected to the swivel base and it should all come right off.



4. Remove the pin holding the main nut by driving it out from the bottom. This pin can be replaced with a roll pin you can get at virtually any hardware store.

(will get pic)

5. Slide the main nut out of it's dovetail.

6. Remove any jaw inserts if they are removable.

7. Blast/prime/paint/reassemble/enjoy

[mjozefow]

"Stamped Steel Slide" Vises:

These vises are an odd cross between an exposed screw and a rectangular slide. Columbian and Desmond-Simplex are the ones that I have seen that use this style of cunstruction. They are considered by many (myself included) to be a medium duty vise (compared to a heavy duty USA/Euro vise, they will outclass a cheap import by a huge margin). I will be using the Columbian 3.5" that Selkirk has asked me to restore for the pics.

The steps for one of these is essentially the same as for an exposed leadscrew vise. The challenge with these is simply getting the crimped anti-reversal ring off of the damn screw.



For this job, I use a screwdriver, wedged into the split in the ring. Then I twist the flat-head driver, and it will give me a bit of room. Then I insert my special tool, and spread it open the rest of the way.



Normal pliers work too, but require more cussing.

I'll show my method for re-crimping when I actually do it tomorrow.

Wilton Vises: To follow within a week or so. Got a nice C-2 for this demo.

[mjozefow]

I hope to list part sources and such here. I have a few leads, but many parts are hard to find.

[mjozefow]

Ok, I actually got around to writing this up. I have a lot more to do. If this helps even one person I will consider it time well spent. Go restore those vises!

[autopts71045]

Again, another great thread for the millions of guys that want to restore, but just need to get their feet wet. They will thank you for your time, knowledge and the simple way you explain and show the steps visually. Show and tell on all restores, on any equipment, I think is alot of what GJ should be about.

[BanjoSavesTheDay]

What brand is that steel slide vise? I've never seen a picture of that style from the bottom. Pretty cool.

[mjozefow]

Originally Posted by BanjoSavesTheDay

What brand is that steel slide vise? I've never seen a picture of that style from the bottom. Pretty cool.

It is a Columbian. Pics of the restored unit will be up soon.

[mjozefow]

Originally Posted by BanjoSavesTheDay

What brand is that steel slide vise? I've never seen a picture of that style from the bottom. Pretty cool.

[reinhardt]

what primer/paint are u using for your vise(s)? i have a mammoth wilton vise, how do i i.d. it? model #, year built, etc.... thanks!

ben

[whelenfan]

mj,
I love all of the work that you do here on the forum. Thank you very much. I plan on cleaning up my desmond simplex very soon.

[mjozefow]

Originally Posted by reinhardt

what primer/paint are u using for your vise(s)? i have a mammoth wilton vise, how do i i.d. it? model #, year built, etc.... thanks!

ben

See the link in my sig on vises. Your Wilton will have a number stamped on the bottom of the round slide, in the keyway. Check out the Wilton video in the same article.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAuUioT5IdA

skip to the end

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9xPM...eature=channel


I use Rustoleum self-etching primer. The reasons are twofold. One, it is a good primer. Two, it is in a can that will spray in any direction. It is $1/can more but it is worth it in my book. It dries quickly too. Top coat in 1/2hr.

If I don't sandblast I'll use Rustoleum Stops Rust primer and paint.

[reinhardt]

i found the date on the bottom 5 85. i'm just trying to figure out the model number. here is a picture of it. the jaws are 6 inches wide.

this vise has seen some use, but seems to work good, the handle rotates smoothly. what kind of 'tire kicking' do u do w/ a vise? if this were a sbc, i would know what to look for, but this is the only vise i've looked into. prior to this i had a columbian from lowe's. i killed that one, and found this one on cl. what would u expect to pay for this thing?

after reading your post on vise restoration, i want to restore this one. i look forward to u posting how to resto a wilton. btw... how did u get into vise resto?

[old salvage]

Originally Posted by reinhardt

.... what kind of 'tire kicking' do u do w/ a vise? if this were a sbc, i would know what to look for, but this is the only vise i've looked into. ........

Make sure the jaws close parallel . Make sure there are no cracks or missing pieces (like the mounting ears on the base). Make sure nothing has been hammered so bad the vise is deformed. Open it all the way and close it all the way. It should be smooth. If it binds up a bit every rotation then the screw is probably bent.

[DavidB]

Mjozefow posted a youtube video of things to look for in a used vise. Link can be found here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...25&postcount=5

[JC23]

Mjozeflow - Thanks for all the solid info on vises. It's a big help. I was just going to give mine a light cleanup when I rebuilt my main work bench. But your thread and all the great input that followed convinced me to do it right. Well, that and the fact that I've had it over 20 years and I know it's never been treated to some basic maintenence.

In doing mine, I have used many of your tips. I'm at the cleaning stage right now and will use the ecthing priimer you spoke of. One thing I either missed or wasn't in this thread is about the lube. What kind do you suggest? And does it make any difference what kind of vice and lead screw?

Thanks again!

[tonydanzah]

that wilton next to the coke can is deceivingly large.

[mjozefow]

Originally Posted by JC23

Mjozeflow - And does it make any difference what kind of vice and lead screw?

Thanks again!

I use Permatex anti-seize that comes in a silver can.

[JC23]

"I use Permatex anti-seize that comes in a silver can.

Ah yes, Anti-Sneeze! Any good shop will have a jar of that!

Thanks and continued good luck!

[reinhardt]

Originally Posted by tonydanzah

that wilton next to the coke can is deceivingly large.

no deception involved... it is that big.. sometimes it's the size, and how u use it...

[boybacon]

How do you decide what color to use in a resto? I just picked up an old Wilton 6" and am thinking about attempting a resto. Just need to find a sandblaster nearby!