walker450
Well-known member
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1969 Mustang Mach One Clone- Please Appraise for Me (pics)
- Thread starter walker450
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z28snksknr
Well-known member
Just my SWAG, I'll say $8-10k as-is. Looks like it will need at least that much put into it as well before you'll see a return on your investment.
Nice car though. I know a guy who has a similar car that's rotting away as we speak. It seems he would rather let it get reclaimed by the earth than part with it for a generous price.
Nice car though. I know a guy who has a similar car that's rotting away as we speak. It seems he would rather let it get reclaimed by the earth than part with it for a generous price.
Falcon67
Well-known member
It's a fastback - $8K~12K would seem a decent number. Even if it is in pieces, it's a stick car and a fastback. From family, you might get it for 5 or 6. That JC Whitney sun roof would be a good bargaining chip LOL. Needs work but a decent collection of parts. A friend bought a 69 driver - 302, worn - paid $8K and got 'em down from 15K.
Ya just gotta hate that.
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Thanks everyone!
I forgot to mention that it has some rust showing through behind the rear wheel well on the quarter panel.
He said a guy offered him $6000 cash a few years ago but he didn't want to sell it then. He will sell it to me for $5000 and even store it for a year or so until I can get my own shop built.
I want to give more like $4000 for it... mainly because the motor is out... Opinions???
I forgot to mention that it has some rust showing through behind the rear wheel well on the quarter panel.
He said a guy offered him $6000 cash a few years ago but he didn't want to sell it then. He will sell it to me for $5000 and even store it for a year or so until I can get my own shop built.
I want to give more like $4000 for it... mainly because the motor is out... Opinions???
1320stang
Well-known member
You need to check for rot in all the typical places, cowl, toe boards, shock towers, firewall, floors, trunk drop offs, rear fender lips, rear lower front fenders. I believe the roof has a cross brace that has been cut out, I'd say the roof fix is around $1000 done right. I think you can get a new roof panel from Dynacorn and maybe even the roof brace, that would be the best procedure.
Do you have a VIN number from the dash? the first 5 digits will do and check the door plate against the VIN and give all the door data as well if it matches. I'm gonna guess on the VIN, 9R02M and the data plate will say 63C A5 3A (date) 65 R 6, lets see how close I get. This will tell us a little more.
Do you have a VIN number from the dash? the first 5 digits will do and check the door plate against the VIN and give all the door data as well if it matches. I'm gonna guess on the VIN, 9R02M and the data plate will say 63C A5 3A (date) 65 R 6, lets see how close I get. This will tell us a little more.
choppintime
Member
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- Aug 4, 2006
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- 7
Although being a clone and the cut in sunroof hurts it $5K is a bargain if that car isn't rusty. It's still a 69 fastback and a four speed to boot.
warmpancakes
Well-known member
for 5k it would be in my garage, what was the original motor? a good bath and some cleaning thats a 8-9 k car all day
willymakeit
Well-known member
IMHO 5k is ok. You will refret not having it later. You could tie up another grand in storage fees
79stang514
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2009
- Messages
- 62
He wouldn't even have to finish saying 5k and I would own it. If any car guys want to shed a tear or two and haven't heard about it yet, check out www.carsinbarns.com. Better have a box of kleenex or two and a few hours set aside.
RonM3
Well-known member
My Mustang sat in a barn for 22 Years before we pulled it out. My brother in Law parked it there and left it. I might just post it on that site.
dcovey
Well-known member
5K..and its all there, go for it. If nothing else and you store it it will only grow in value. Of course it will never be worth as much as those with the killer options (Boss 302, louvers, or even the Mach 1 options). Still it's an early Mustang and they don't make them any more!!
My $.02
EDIT: I forgot, most of the restoration stuff is fairly readily available, Paddock comes to mind.
My $.02
EDIT: I forgot, most of the restoration stuff is fairly readily available, Paddock comes to mind.
rsanter
Well-known member
sorry but from what I see I would want to give somewhere between $2500 to $4500 pending closer inspection
wrong engine -
mismatch of engine pieces -
4 speed +
needs paint and body -
needs interrior -
hood scoop +
family history +
bob
wrong engine -
mismatch of engine pieces -
4 speed +
needs paint and body -
needs interrior -
hood scoop +
family history +
bob
Thanks again everyone. I like the list rsanter. That is what has been running through my mind.... plus the engine needs to be gone through, which is probably about $1000-2000 alone. (that is above my scope above work, so I would have it done by someone else)
wrong engine -
engine needs rebuilt -
engine not in car -
sunroof - - -
mismatch of engine pieces -
4 speed +
needs paint and body -
needs interrior -
hood scoop +
good wheels and tires +
family history +
wrong engine -
engine needs rebuilt -
engine not in car -
sunroof - - -
mismatch of engine pieces -
4 speed +
needs paint and body -
needs interrior -
hood scoop +
good wheels and tires +
family history +
28HopUp
Well-known member
In terms of looking for rust, I would add the front frame rails and battery tray area. Check the shock towers for cracks too, both inside the wheelwells and from the engine compartment. IMO, $5K seems like it's a decent price, but that would be if the car isn't rusted out. Everything is fixable, for the right price, and rust repairs are expensive.
54FordPanel
Well-known member
That's a good buy at $5k
FoMoCoPower
Well-known member
A`69 Fastback for $5k and your complaining about the engine needing a rebuild??? Seriously??
Yes I'm serious. I know little about Mustangs and thier value; that's why I started this post.
I appreciate everyone's input, I am starting to realize these cars don't go as cheap as I thought.
About the rust: I will look closer when we pull it out of the garage.
About the VIN: I'll get that the next time I see the car and post it.
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Falcon67
Well-known member
You'd leave my shop without the car.
I've seen worse sell for more - fastbacks command top dollar. A Dynacorn body in that same style is $15K plus shipping and you'll put a bunch of time and $$$$ more in it to get it ready for paint. So if you gave $6K for a rusted fastback shell and bought a roof patch, fenders, door skins, floor pans and maybe lower quarter patches you'd be big bucks ahead. People are paying $10K+ to have coupes converted to fastback bodys. Nobody gives a **** that it's the wrong engine. It also comes with a 4 speed - easy $1000 for a used trans plus the bell and other items. This **** ain't cheap no more. I keep the 70 in the garage. It's a race car, notch with a cage - easy $6K car and it needs paint and floor pans. If you score the car for $5K, you got a deal. You could clean it up real good, spend a few $$$ on little stuff, motor may well be good with gaskets, make it run and flip it easy. I'd pay $5K and go get it and the pieces tomorrow. Shawnee ain't that far off
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I don't see what the big deal is with the motor being out. It would need to be pulled anyway if it was still in?
I think if your looking for one of those models in particular then $5000 ain't bad and your helping a family member, but if your only interested because he's offering it and you didn't previously want one, or your not prepared for a $20,000 project to finish it then I'd think on it some more.
Kurn
Well-known member
A 69 Sportsroof in any condition is worth 5K.I've seen rusty shells go for more.
choppintime
Member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 7
I agree with some of your negatives.......but if you think you will find any premium type muscle car from the late 60's to say 1974 with a numbers matching engine for 5K or less your not being realistic. The 69 fastback body style is cool, if that car needs minimal metal work I think 5K is a deal. The only thing that would really bother me if I wanted a 69 Mustang would be the sunroof. Replacing that skin will be some work.
Jay H 237
Well-known member
Repro roof skins are available from any of the Mustang parts suppliers. 5K is a steal for that car, it's got some wrong parts, has sat for quite some time, and needs to be redone...........BUT it is a fairly complete car. I was in the market for a plain 69 Sportsroof (non-Mach or Boss) 1.5 years ago* and I saw stripped shells going for 2-3K! These had no drivetrain, glass, interior or even wiring harnesses left.................but you have some of that with this car. That car is easily worth 5K and a bit more.
(* due to cut back hours and pay cuts at work with the economy I abondoned my search. I'm just sticking with my 68 coupe for now. Can't afford another "toy")
(* due to cut back hours and pay cuts at work with the economy I abondoned my search. I'm just sticking with my 68 coupe for now. Can't afford another "toy")
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
And to think I sold my Real '69 Mach I in 1990 for $1,500. It was my daily driver during most of the eighties. Mine had disk brakes in the front. You will have a real project on your hands.
Chris
Chris
The sun roof hurts the value badly
It's got a '70 hood on it and the floor had to be cut for the vertical gate and why is the t-handle on backwards??
Has standard front fenders and the emblems are missing from the sail pillars
It's got a a/c dash but is it an a/c car??
Disc Brakes?? Wrong wheels but that's minor
In Elroy's book those pictures show a $3 grand car MAX.
Now if it had big block shock towers with staggered rear shocks and a 31 spline nodular that would be a good thing. Highly doubtful.
The quarters look good from here and if the floor and torque boxes are good maybe. Lots of work and money. Are you ready for that??
It's got a '70 hood on it and the floor had to be cut for the vertical gate and why is the t-handle on backwards??
Has standard front fenders and the emblems are missing from the sail pillars
It's got a a/c dash but is it an a/c car??
Disc Brakes?? Wrong wheels but that's minor
In Elroy's book those pictures show a $3 grand car MAX.
Now if it had big block shock towers with staggered rear shocks and a 31 spline nodular that would be a good thing. Highly doubtful.
The quarters look good from here and if the floor and torque boxes are good maybe. Lots of work and money. Are you ready for that??
1969
Well-known member
Buy the car. Don't use the 302, if you can afford it , have a stroker built. Take a 351 windsor and build a 427. No one knows what your running and a 427 is just plain nasty. If $$$$$$ is no object, get yourself a Lentech AOD and a good rear gear. I like the 4 speed also, especially if its a toploader.69 mach1 is one of the best looking Mustangs ever built.......IMO.
If money was no object he wouldn't be looking at that sun roof turd POS
No argument there
1969
Well-known member
ReIf money was no object he wouldn't be looking at that sun roof turd POS
I suppose you are correct, thank you for bringing that to my attention.
I suppose you are correct, thank you for bringing that to my attention.
1969
Well-known member
I have a 69 Mach 1 fastback that I hope to have done shortly. It's about 98% done at this time. If I can get my daughter-in-law to show me how to post pictures, I will do so when completed. I'm not real good with some of this computer stuff. Too old I guess.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
Cant wait to see pics of your Mach I. Did you put a one piece export brace on it? Mine used to be really loose in high speed turns with the two piece thin factory export brace.
That unibody car would really flex. Don't think his sun roof will help
Chris
1969
Well-known member
Re:Cant wait to see pics of your Mach I. Did you put a one piece export brace on it? Mine used to be really loose in high speed turns with the two piece thin factory export brace.
No, I hardly ever drive the car. The car has been in my family since 1986, My son was born in 1969 and I bought it for him. The car is candyapple red.I just have a few finishing touches left to do. Car has a 351 Windsor, modified a bit, FMX auto with a stage 2 shift kit and a 3:91 traction lok rear gear. I will post pictures when I learn how.
No, I hardly ever drive the car. The car has been in my family since 1986, My son was born in 1969 and I bought it for him. The car is candyapple red.I just have a few finishing touches left to do. Car has a 351 Windsor, modified a bit, FMX auto with a stage 2 shift kit and a 3:91 traction lok rear gear. I will post pictures when I learn how.
38Chevy454
Well-known member
I am not a Mustang guy, but knowing what they bring when finished and the fact it can make a great driver, I think $5K is a good price. The engine would be easiest to replace with a 347 (302 stroker) or 351 or 351 stroker. The 289 block and 302 crank just means you have a 302, same bore on both. The 351 heads were the older way to get better performance until the aftermarket heads available now which are better flowing and performance potential.
Since the car is mostly complete and intact, you are way ahead. Get an engine, rebuild the brake system, flush the fuel system, go driving. Have fun driving it for a while and then you can get serious with the body work. 69 Fastback is one of the best looking of the Mustangs for sure.
Since the car is mostly complete and intact, you are way ahead. Get an engine, rebuild the brake system, flush the fuel system, go driving. Have fun driving it for a while and then you can get serious with the body work. 69 Fastback is one of the best looking of the Mustangs for sure.
66HertzClone
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That will be a project, but for that kind of money I would grab it up. Here is what an open checkbook can do if you really have the desire. Not a 69, and a clone like yours, but a head turner anyway.
warmpancakes
Well-known member
wow I cant believe some of the low ball prices here, some people are saying 3k???? Ill take every single 3k 69 fast back you can find that are as close to complete as this one, because ill resell them for 8k all day
Falcon67
Well-known member
Be kind to yourself and do NOT look up what they sell for these days. It's nuts.
DO NOT store it! You either buy it and take possession of it or forget about it. Very Very bad business to trust the seller to store anything for you.
darkbuddha
Well-known member
I'll admit that I may be a bit out of touch on prices these days, but here are a few of my observations:
1. The car isn't worth restoring. Sure, it's a sportsroof, sure it's a 4 speed, and it was even probably an original V8 car. But beyond that, it's got very little "collectibility" compared to a real Mach, Boss, or big block or CJ/SCJ car (unless it turns out to be something exceptional, like the first '69 sportsroof produced or similar). So, if you're going to build it, it makes sense to do so as a driver or racecar/pro-touring/hotrod/etc. And remember, on a fundamental level, it costs the same to restore a basic no-option car as it does to restore a rare/highly collectible car, so it only makes sense to do so on a collectible car.
2. Assuming you just want a nice, but modest, driver, I'd guess there's $8k minimum (probably more like $10k+) in work to do on that car, assuming you do most of it. And what will it be worth after that? Take a look through what has actually sold on eBay. I'd bet a driver quality '69 sportsroof is probably around $12k. Now subtract the difference and you'll have an idea of a "break even" price... maybe $4k max.
3. The question is what would you want out of the car? Are you worried about it being an "investment"? What are you willing to do and spend to bring the car to the level you'd want? Are you worried about being able to get your money back out of it? The reality is that most people lose money on amateur restorations, especially if they start with a less collectible car.
4. A running project car is probably under $4-5k. As it sits, this is a non-running, total resto project car, and it's been sitting a long time, which means every part that uses a fluid or needs lubrication is going to require a rebuild/replacement. That means more work and more expense than if you started with a slightly more expensive car. In fact, it's been proven over and over that you're much better off starting with the best car you can afford rather than "the deal".
In any case, I could say more but IMHO it's a $3500 car. That would ensure you're not going to lose money if the project stalls/dies on your end. It also leaves more budget for the restification.
1. The car isn't worth restoring. Sure, it's a sportsroof, sure it's a 4 speed, and it was even probably an original V8 car. But beyond that, it's got very little "collectibility" compared to a real Mach, Boss, or big block or CJ/SCJ car (unless it turns out to be something exceptional, like the first '69 sportsroof produced or similar). So, if you're going to build it, it makes sense to do so as a driver or racecar/pro-touring/hotrod/etc. And remember, on a fundamental level, it costs the same to restore a basic no-option car as it does to restore a rare/highly collectible car, so it only makes sense to do so on a collectible car.
2. Assuming you just want a nice, but modest, driver, I'd guess there's $8k minimum (probably more like $10k+) in work to do on that car, assuming you do most of it. And what will it be worth after that? Take a look through what has actually sold on eBay. I'd bet a driver quality '69 sportsroof is probably around $12k. Now subtract the difference and you'll have an idea of a "break even" price... maybe $4k max.
3. The question is what would you want out of the car? Are you worried about it being an "investment"? What are you willing to do and spend to bring the car to the level you'd want? Are you worried about being able to get your money back out of it? The reality is that most people lose money on amateur restorations, especially if they start with a less collectible car.
4. A running project car is probably under $4-5k. As it sits, this is a non-running, total resto project car, and it's been sitting a long time, which means every part that uses a fluid or needs lubrication is going to require a rebuild/replacement. That means more work and more expense than if you started with a slightly more expensive car. In fact, it's been proven over and over that you're much better off starting with the best car you can afford rather than "the deal".
In any case, I could say more but IMHO it's a $3500 car. That would ensure you're not going to lose money if the project stalls/dies on your end. It also leaves more budget for the restification.