2-POST LIFTS: Asymmetric or Symmetric?

PBSS-garage · Dec 8, 2010

Santa might be getting me a lift for Christmas. I'm pretty sure its a 2-post, around 9ton lifting capacity. I am just a hobbyist and probably the biggest thing I will lift is a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. I have a 12 foot ceiling in the garage and 6 inches of concrete underneath the bay that will have the lift.

I'm trying to decide on the Asymmetric or the Symmetric styles. I have this phobia about lifting something high enough to hit the bar on the Asymmetric but don't really like the bar across the floor on the Symmetric. The marketing for the Asymmetric makes it sound like its easier getting in/out of the vehicle on those models as compared to the Symmetric. I honestly won't be in/out that many times to care too much about that.

Thoughts or preferences?

Thanks and Merry Christmas! :beer:

Jeff

Red Green · Dec 8, 2010

The guys will correct me if I am wrong but the cross bar at the top should have a automatic shut off/kill switch deal so you can't crush the roof of the truck on the cross bar.

My buddy has a 4 post and I had to stand on top of it as it was going up to watch so we didn't run the light bar on top of the tow truck into his celling lights. :lol_hitti

m.james · Dec 8, 2010

I think a symmetric might be better for your preferences however do some research. Find out how much space you have. Look for a place where you can walk around the entire car. Then choose a lift based on your garage and preferences.

Possum · Dec 8, 2010

You are getting your terms confused. Asymmetric and symmetric have to do with the lengths of lifting arms and the position of the car when lifted. Asymmetric have unequal length arms front and back and are more common for FWD cars that tend to be front heavy with the balance point near the front door hinge. Symmetric have equal length arms front and back and are more for trucks and RWD cars that tend to be closer to neutral in balance - lifted from the center point of the wheelbase on the lift. Asymmetric commonly have the posts angled to allow for the car door to open, and symmetric tend to have wider openings between the post. You are referring to the difference between a top plate and a bottom plate lift when you talk about the horizontal member. Top plate lifts do have a cable that connected to a shutoff or limit switch to prevent contact with the horizontal member.

Nutty 5.0 · Dec 8, 2010

I've used and worked with both and Assym. is just so much easier to use. It won't take you long to get used to it at all. Others have answered your questions about the safety bar in regards to clear floor ones.

Also, I had 12' exact height ceiling so make sure the lift you get will fit as many like Bend Pak are a few inches taller than 12'0". My trusses go the same direction as the safety bar up to so I was able to postion it between trusses. If yours go the opposite way and the lift is taller, you'll be limited to what lift you can use. Hopefully this helps and makes sense.

PBSS-garage · Dec 9, 2010

Thanks for the feedback guys! I appreciate it.

Jeff

eclou · Dec 9, 2010

Challenger's top post lifts are marketed as "Versymmetric" meaning the 3 stage arms front and rear allow you to load a car either symmetrically or asymmetrically. I think any lift with front and rear 3 stage arms would do the same

Ironcrow · Dec 9, 2010

If you are a tight fit, be careful with the spec sheet. My lift is actually 1 inch taller than listed on the spec sheet. They did not consider the bleed ******* on top of the rams when the lift was all the way up. Idiots.

saabman · Dec 9, 2010

The terms Asymmetric and Symmetric are used to define two different but related configurations. 1) The lift arms telescope (2 or 3 stage) allowing the car to be positioned asymetrically (the columns however are parallel to one another 2) same arm configuration as 1 but the columns are rotated 30 or so degrees.

I am very happy with a parallel column bendpak with 2 stage front and 3 stage rear arms.
I lift a mix of FWD and RWD with no issue.

hilld · Dec 9, 2010

9 Ton would be a huge lift. I guess you meant 9000 lbs. Buy the lift that works best with your types of vehicles you will be lifting most. I personally would only buy a certified lift, but YMMV.

Aberdale · Dec 9, 2010

My understanding of symmetric vs. assymetric is the placement of the center of mass of the vehicle. On a symmetric lift, the center of gravity is placed roughly between the columns (50% of the vehicle in front of the column and 50% behind the column), and the columns are square to each other. On an assymetric lift, the columns are canted about 30 degrees, with the vehicle center of mass roughly at the intersection of the normal faces of the posts. (This leaves about 30% of the vehicle in front of the columns, and 70% of the vehicle behind the columns.)

It is necessary to place the columns farther apart on a symmetrical lift to allow the driver's door to open far enough to enter and exit the vehicle.

The biggest advantage of an asymmetrical lift is the columns can be placed closer together while still allowing good access for entering and exiting the vehicle. The disadvantage to asymmetrical lifts is the load is cantilievered, providing more stress at the floor plate attachments and concrete. Not a big deal if the concrete and attachments are installed per specification from the lift manufacturer.

This provides a pretty good explanation:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Articles.asp?ID=140

Dale

JD in DFW · Dec 9, 2010

Aberdale said:
My understanding of symmetric vs. assymetric is the placement of the center of mass of the vehicle. On a symmetric lift, the center of gravity is placed roughly between the columns (50% of the vehicle in front of the column and 50% behind the column), and the columns are square to each other. On an assymetric lift, the columns are canted about 30 degrees, with the vehicle center of mass roughly at the intersection of the normal faces of the posts. (This leaves about 30% of the vehicle in front of the columns, and 70% of the vehicle behind the columns.)

It is necessary to place the columns farther apart on a symmetrical lift to allow the driver's door to open far enough to enter and exit the vehicle.

The biggest advantage of an asymmetrical lift is the columns can be placed closer together while still allowing good access for entering and exiting the vehicle. The disadvantage to asymmetrical lifts is the load is cantilievered, providing more stress at the floor plate attachments and concrete. Not a big deal if the concrete and attachments are installed per specification from the lift manufacturer.

This provides a pretty good explanation:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Articles.asp?ID=140

Dale

Dale is correct here, all others are a bit off. Arm position or 2 Stage/3 Stage arms have nothing to do with Asym/Symm 2-post lifts. It comes down to the degree or position of the columns. If they are turned at a 30 degree it's a Asymm, if not then Symm. The latter will be the best best for a home use and will accommodate many more longer wheel base cars and trucks then a Asymm lift will. Dealers and shops love the Assym becomes the techs bang up less doors with them, you can put more of the assym lifts in a shop and they take up a smaller foot print over all. Plus they increase the turn in radius in a shop. Go with the symm lift if you plan to lift any longer bed trucks or extended wheel based cars. For me I always feel more at ease under a symm lift....but that's just me.

Oh And the challenger lift with it's Versametric arms is not a bad lift, has taken it a while to catch on. Most dealership though are still requesting and putting in Rotary Lifts for new builds as well as shop remodels from my experience.

best of luck with whatever lift you decide to go with.

JD

dankicksass · Dec 9, 2010

Symmetric lifts are a pain, I'd rather have an in-ground than a door basher if an asymmetric weren't available.

Ironcrow · Dec 10, 2010

I'm not sure the Greg Smith Equipment description is really very good at all:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29183&highlight=asymmetric

foobunny · Jan 28, 2014

The true difference is the way the arms fold back asymmetrical lifts fold together one direction so they are easier to get small cars on with out having to roll the car after you get the first two arms under it. symmetrical lift arms fold in towards each other so if you have anything with a short wheel base they are a pain cuz you have to set your front arms then roll the car to get the rears under the vehicle. all of you lift arms telescope anymore also check the ANSI web site and make sure they are certified be carefull of bend pak because not all of them are but the site will tell you which ones are and which aren'tby model number of the lift. also if u are lifting trucks get a 12k minimum a 9k will work but consider this most lifts are rated a certain weight but some vary a little if your truck weighs 9k your lift is 9k that variation could be your life always pick one that exceeds what you are doing if you have the option go asymmetrical theyre much more versitile

onewheat · Jan 28, 2014

foobunny said:
The true difference is the way the arms fold back asymmetrical lifts fold together one direction so they are easier to get small cars on with out having to roll the car after you get the first two arms under it. symmetrical lift arms fold in towards each other so if you have anything with a short wheel base they are a pain cuz you have to set your front arms then roll the car to get the rears under the vehicle. all of you lift arms telescope anymore also check the ANSI web site and make sure they are certified be carefull of bend pak because not all of them are but the site will tell you which ones are and which aren'tby model number of the lift. also if u are lifting trucks get a 12k minimum a 9k will work but consider this most lifts are rated a certain weight but some vary a little if your truck weighs 9k your lift is 9k that variation could be your life always pick one that exceeds what you are doing if you have the option go asymmetrical theyre much more versitile

A pickup truck is nowhere near 9000 lbs unless it is loaded with a lot of ****. Curb weight of a 2013 Chevy Crew Cab 2500HD 4WD is 6600 lbs with a 6 liter gas engine - heavier with a diesel but not by anything near 2400 lbs more.

ScaldedDog · Jan 28, 2014

onewheat said:
A pickup truck is nowhere near 9000 lbs unless it is loaded with a lot of ****. Curb weight of a 2013 Chevy Crew Cab 2500HD 4WD is 6600 lbs with a 6 liter gas engine - heavier with a diesel but not by anything near 2400 lbs more.

My PSD Excursion weighs over 8000lb empty on a CAT scale.

Mark

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

mrobins297aaa · Jan 28, 2014

my 2000 f250 super duty ext cab w/8' bed & the 7.3 diesel is 7400#

BIMMERBOYZ · Jan 28, 2014

GM owners forget that Ford's front axle weighs a lot more than what they consider a front axle. Also consider the leaf springs. My 02 7.3 crew cab long bed is over 8000lbs.

onewheat · Jan 28, 2014

All of these 8000 lb vehicles STILL work on a 9000 lb lift and unless the OP is going to exceed that - he will be OK.

75toolman · Jan 29, 2014

I have 7 lifts in my shop.Only one is an assymetric which is a 10,000# rotary.Overall It works good for cars and small trucks/suvs.I absolutely HATE using it for 3/4s and 1tons.No matter how the vehicle is positioned it lifts like ****.When the truck is in the air it looks like a deathtrap.I would never buy another asymmetric again.For the odd time you can actually open your door wider then a normal lift its just not worth it.

aussieracer · Jan 29, 2014

75toolman said:
I have 7 lifts in my shop.Only one is an assymetric which is a 10,000# rotary.Overall It works good for cars and small trucks/suvs.I absolutely HATE using it for 3/4s and 1tons.No matter how the vehicle is positioned it lifts like ****.When the truck is in the air it looks like a deathtrap.I would never buy another asymmetric again.For the odd time you can actually open your door wider then a normal lift its just not worth it.

Agreed.

A few lifts these days have "super" symmetric, which is really just a symmetric lift with shorter front arms compared to the rear arms (doesn't have to be front, but basically one set of arms is shorter than the other). This allows the car to be loaded in a asymmetric position, but also a symmetric position when you need to get the balance better.

I have one like that. It's ok, but the longer rear arms do make it harder to find a sweet spot compared to a pure symmetric (bit of rolling around needed).

2-POST LIFTS: Asymmetric or Symmetric?

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