General question about air compressors

Parents finally brought my 30 gallon compressor down today and got it all hooked up. My husky vt6315 (Campbell hausfeld) says it's max at 135psi. It didn't shut off until about 145psi? Is this normal or am I reading too much into it.

Also I have a quick disconnect on it now with male threads, What's the best way to drain the tank or air? Pull the safetly valve that is on the regulator? I guess I don't know how to drain it short of putting two on off valves (ball lever) on the output and having one setup as a male ****** so when I need to drain the tank all the air comes out that fitting rather than me pulling/holding the saftey valve open... I take it that you should not keep it filled when not using right? Or is it good to have say 10psi in it or so?

I am surprized at the loudness of this.. all the reviews said it's quiet, perhaps I was imagining whisper quiet but not sure to be honest, this is my first one.. What is considered normal? I will take a video of it tonight and post up.
Also should it vibrate a little bit when on and pumping air into the tank? Perhaps I am just imagined something that didnt' move at all but this does vibrate some what...


Sorry if these questions are very simple/basic but I have found that they don't explain in the manual how it should be done.

Thanks,
-Nigel

No problem leaving the tank pressurized. I actually shudder to think how much time and energy would be wasted filling up a large tank every time it was to be used.

it's a good thing that you even think about these things. in many cases people would likely gloss over them. i'm not familiar with your model personally, but did look on the hd web site. depending on your pressure switch, the shut off may just be out of adjustment. but generally, if it is set for 135 it should shut off there. it's unlikely to cause a problem, but i the switch is faulty, you'd want to get it replaced. it's also possible the gauge is reading wrong and the switch is shutting off at 135.

there's likely not much danger at 145, but there's really no benefit either. higher pressures are harder on the pump and other components for little to no benefit. tools tend to be run at a much lower pressures anyway.

keeping the tank pressurized for long periods or not is personal preference. there are arguments either way. manually emptying it with the safety/blow off valve is not a generally accepted practice. plus it's a pita. i'd suggest loosening up a connection just off the tank so that the pressure bleeds out slowly overnight or whatever period is best for the frequency of use.

i'd also be very surprised if there is not a drain valve threaded into the bottom of your tank. it looks like it in the picture even. if you're inclined you can replace or repipe that valve to make draining easier or more convenient, but you will want to drain from the bottom under no or low pressure. that is where the moisture will collect.

it's also hard to build a quiet compressor at low cost. the reviews may have compared it to comparable models. whisper quiet is definitely overly optimistic though. some vibration is normal. i have no idea what is normal for that pump or motor. what's the motor rpm?

You didn't say, but I'd bet that's an oiless machine right? It also has a thumscrew drain on the bottom - but it won't open unless the pressure is released first. So to drain the water out, you'll have to pull that releif valve, let most of the pressure out, then open the thumbscrew bleeder.

xcgates said:

No problem leaving the tank pressurized. I actually shudder to think how much time and energy would be wasted filling up a large tank every time it was to be used.

Click to expand...

Problem with leaving it pressurized, is that the condensate also sits, leading to rust and possible damage/failure. I'd drain it after every use, but if it's a hassle, then at least every 2 weeks.

Here is what I did:





The left side I am going to leave a male quick connect fitting and then that way when I need to bleed the tank I can lightly turn that on/off and have the air bleed.. The far right connection will be my air tool line.

On the bottom I do have that stupid turn nut to drain the tank of water/moisture.. I do want to get the extended 1/4" NPT with on/off valve, however my tank has wheels and when I kick it over to move (which won't be often) I can see that the pipe would bend on the bottom.. so I am trying to figure out how to do it so it doesn't bend the pipe if you lean the tank over.. since the pivot point would angle it and crush...




-Nigel

I've never had a compressor that couldn't be drained under full pressure using the bottom tank drain valve. To make it less cumbersome you can get a drain valve that opens by pulling an attached cable. http://www.mcmaster.com/#drain-handle-stop-*****/=bickfx

e-tek said:

You didn't say, but I'd bet that's an oiless machine right? It also has a thumscrew drain on the bottom - but it won't open unless the pressure is released first. So to drain the water out, you'll have to pull that releif valve, let most of the pressure out, then open the thumbscrew bleeder.



Problem with leaving it pressurized, is that the condensate also sits, leading to rust and possible damage/failure. I'd drain it after every use, but if it's a hassle, then at least every 2 weeks.

Click to expand...

I have a 22 year old, 30 gallon, 3 1/2 hp (More like 1.5hp but this is before they got sued for lying, I always looked at the amps anyway.) Craftsman oilless compressor and I live in Houston. The cheap drain wing nut drain **** that came with it was a little difficult to unscrew, but I didn't have to release the pressure to do so.

I never release the pressure on it, just drain it each use. No leaks due to rust from the inside yet. I did worry about it though. Time has shown that while it does rust a little as judged by the water that comes out, the process is slow.

Thanks for the info guys! good to know about the air tank being full if I am not used to it.


airdale:

That pull chain that you link does this screw INTO the screw valve or does this actually replace. I see they have 3 things on the link that you posted. Is the last item spring loaded so that when you pull on the attached cable it goes back to the closed position?

Thanks,
-Nigel

When my dad had his compressor mounted under his workbench hidden behind a door we went to the local parts house that also catered to truck mechanic's and picked up one of the bleeder valves that uses a tug of the cable to release the air. it was very handy as the cable was long enough to mount the other end near the underside of the countertop just slightly open the door, grab/tug the cable and instantly drain any water from the lines. Much more convenient than getting down on all fours under the workbench. Especially for my Dad who was approaching 70 at the time.
The valve we used replaces the chintzy winged one the compressor comes with, I think they were both 1/4"NPT thread

Just like Hank said, it replaces the old valve. I use Teflon pipe thread tape when installing. Releasing the cable closes the valve. The one I got is a little fiddly, sometimes I have to give it a little tug for it to reseat completely.

I did this to the oil drain.

Now it's very easy to drain and oil doesn't get EVERYWHERE... Why they didn't install something like this first is beyond me...

Simple ball valve 1/8 NPT with extension and a little cap to make it look nice.



-Nigel

Nigel
I think that's a great idea you have for your modified oil drain plug.I just changed the oil on my new to me Campbell Hausfeld compressor and it was a pain in the rear.So I am going to chaing to your idea when the next oil change is due.
ManyThanks!
scarrylarry