Are these recepticles a good choice?

[Motown 454]

I'm going to use all 20 amp circuits (unless more is needed) Are these a good choice of receptacle to use? Has anyone heard of this company ? Good or Bad?
2 pole, 3 wire 20 amps, 125 VAC Orange Isolated Ground Duplex Receptacle - Hospital Grade.
Manufactured by Cobra Electric
All opinions welcome!!
Thanks

[Charles (in GA)]

Hospital grade will be good quality. You do not have any need for the isolated ground, and if these are cheap, or free, go for it, if you are paying going rate for them, I'd pick another receptacle. My personal preference is a Leviton Pro-Grade with back wire capability (not push in, its insert the wire and tighten the screw, very secure). Hubbell and Cooper also make about the same receptacle. Hubbell is expensive.

Charles

[Norcal]

Cobra is a no-name brand that is prob. of Chinese origin.

[bjcouche]

Charles is on the right track as usual. I'd skip those hospital grade ones. What should also be mentioned is that if it's new construction you may have to use tamper resistant outlets as well per 2008 NEC. The "commercial" grade in a Leviton would be TBR20 with the back wire method as Charles describes. For a high use outlet in a garage I would not use the "residential" grade T5820. The commercial ones add more cost, and then the addition of the tamper resistant feature adds even more cost. Whether it's a 15 or 20A outlet, the commercial ones really do have a better electrical connection than the residential ones. Whether it's worth the extra $5.00 per outlet is your decision.

Brian

[bjcouche]

I should also point out that the Leviton 5352 is also better than the residential grade units and has the back wired connections. The 5352 is considered a "Specification Grade" unit and can be located at the Depot...

Brian

[Stuart in MN]

Specification grade is a good quality receptacle. Also, you can use 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit as long as there are more than one, and a duplex receptacle counts as two. Most people don't have any tool or appliance that has a 20 amp plug on it anyway.

[Motown 454]

I found these for $4 ea. Mfg. Part #: 5362-SR
Leviton 5362-SR red duplex slim receptacle. Slim body design for easier installation in tight wallboxes. The bright red color is great for locations where you want to call attention to your outlets: workshops, offices, computer rooms. Industrial Specification Grade, 2-pole, 3-wire, NEMA 5-20R, grounding, back and side wired, rated 20A 125VAC. Bulk packed loose with no individual packaging or instructions. Features include:

Impact-resistant thermoplastic nylon cover and body
Large, triple-wipe, brass "T" contacts for superior contact and conductivity
Back and side-wiring options
Brass terminal screws to reduce conductor oxidation
Break-off tabs for easy two-circuit conversion
Apron barrier to prevent accidental contact between terminal screw heads and metal box
Exclusive V-shaped, serrated back-wiring clamps for superior contact and conductivity
Smooth face does not collect dirt
Four corner latches securely fasten face
Locked-in mounting strap

Let me know what you think.
Thanks Again Wayne

[mrb]

remember, you dont need 20 amp receptacles unless you have something with a 20a plug. You can put 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuit (except for one single receptacle). The contacts inside are the same for both, so there is no additional current carrying capacity in a 20 amp receptacle. Big thing is to make sure you use quality receptacles.

i have these if they are of any help http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...hlight=hubbell

[Milton Shaw]

Pay a few cents extra and get the unbreakable nylon cover plates, don't waste your money on cheep plastic plates that break the first time you push a plug in the new tight tamper proof outlets.

[Gooch]

Is there a reason you are buying red receptacles? If it were me, I'd be buying the Leviton/cooper/P&S Spec grade outlets, should be less than $2 per device.

[Charles (in GA)]

Originally Posted by Gooch

Is there a reason you are buying red receptacles? If it were me, I'd be buying the Leviton/cooper/P&S Spec grade outlets, should be less than $2 per device.

You won't get the back wire ones for that. And you won't get ones with nylon faces for that either. The ones he is describing are a good price for the nylon face (perfectly flat on a Leviton) and the nylon won't break out at the ground pin the first time you pull a cord out crooked. I think I paid over $5 at HD for the nylon face, back wire Leviton Pro Grade. I installed these throughout the house.

Charles

[Gooch]

Originally Posted by Charles (in GA)

You won't get the back wire ones for that. And you won't get ones with nylon faces for that either. The ones he is describing are a good price for the nylon face (perfectly flat on a Leviton) and the nylon won't break out at the ground pin the first time you pull a cord out crooked. I think I paid over $5 at HD for the nylon face, back wire Leviton Pro Grade. I installed these throughout the house.

Charles

I guess if thats where someone wants to spend their money, that's their choice.

I've never had any problems with your run of the mill sub$2 spec grade's.

[Motown 454]

Is this the back wiring you talked about Charles?

[thrifty bill]

FWIW: I hate the back wiring outlets. I have removed too many where a wire came loose. I stick with the old fashioned screw terminals.

+1 15A outlets are fine on a 20A circuit, unless you have a tool/appliance/whatever with a 20A plug.


YMMV.

[mrb]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

FWIW: I hate the back wiring outlets.

dont confuse backstab type receptacles (the cheap ones where you stick the wire in a hole) with commercial, specification, and industrial grade receptacles with a pressure plate type clamp where you insert the wire in the back and tighten the screw on the side which pulls a plate against the wire. These are the best.

[Motown 454]

Thats what these are industrial with the pressure clap. I picked them up. Thank you everyone for your help.
Wayne

[Charles (in GA)]

Originally Posted by Motown 454

Is this the back wiring you talked about Charles?

Thats a Cooper (formerly Eagle) and I've never seen them with the covers over the side screws. I have the same receptacles (sans the side covers) on one side of my shop, the other side is done with Leviton (same back wire type) and one box has Hubbell back wire. Only downside to them is the force necessary to insert and remove plugs, its alot of work, pulling or pushing and wiggling to get them in/out.

Charles

[Greatbear]

The advantage of the pressure plate backwire receptacles is you can "legally" put two wires under a screw, making life easier when you have unusual wiring layouts and a lot of wires in a box.

[thrifty bill]

Originally Posted by mrb

dont confuse backstab type receptacles (the cheap ones where you stick the wire in a hole) with commercial, specification, and industrial grade receptacles with a pressure plate type clamp where you insert the wire in the back and tighten the screw on the side which pulls a plate against the wire. These are the best.

Yep. you are right. Those look a lot beefier than the crappy ones they sell at the big box stores.

[Charles (in GA)]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

Yep. you are right. Those look a lot beefier than the crappy ones they sell at the big box stores.

They sell these at the big box stores also, you just gotta look for them. The ones with the push in wire in the back should be avoided at all costs, they are cheap junk. By code they (the spring push in type) only accept 14 gauge wire also. The ones with the screws you tighten to capture the wire with a serrated or V plate inside the receptacle are a very positive contact/wire retention method.

Charles