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Old 04-17-2011, 09:37 AM   #1
GirlnAgarage
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Default Reorganization, it's like a renovation


The Original "Reorganization"



Index of Projects

3-17-2014

  • Shelving: Beginning - Post #31
  • Horizontal Wall Stripes: Post #58-59
  • Welders on wheels: Post #77
  • 24"x48" Workbench on wheels: #78
  • 2'x10' Workbench: Post #79-
    - Workbench Top: Post #544
  • 48" Press Brake, 16ga: Post #111-
    - Test Video: Post #228
    - Inside-the-box Jig: Post #226
  • Materials - Drawers & Slides: Post #136-
  • Drawer Folding: #276-
    - 19" Bends 1 & 2
    - 26" Bends 3 & 4 (Inside-the-box) video
    - Drawers Installed: Post #398
    - Drawers Finished: Post #409
  • Delta Homecraft 11-120 Drill Press: Post #350
  • Overhead Materials Rack: Post #615
  • Installing Additional Outlets w/ EMT: Post #622-
  • Sprinkler Box: Post #672
  • Truing Evolution Rage3 CSMS: Post #776
  • Wall Shelf Curtain: Post #800
  • Craftsman Drill Press 103.23130: Post #847
  • We Moved!: Post #890

-------------------------------------------------------------------



We don't have no beer. Just tequila.

What's tequila?

It's like beer.

Is it fattening?

Fattenings?

Forget it. If it's like beer,
we'll have some. Three tequilas.

Sure. Sure, amigos.


¡Three Amigos! (1986)



GirlnAgarage's Garage Reorganization





Ok, so the two terms really aren't the same - reorganization, renovation. Ya, big difference. Our HVAC unit really helped us understand that in this thread HERE. It was $9400 worth of ouch (DH really wanted the heat pump system). It is what it is. We'll make due.

May 25th will mark two years since we closed on this house, our first 'own' home. Prior to we rented as DH was active duty Navy.

Garage Specs
Build year: 1985
Size: 370sqft (18.5’x20’)
18’4”w x 19’10¾”d x 8’3” h
Ceiling: master bedroom & bath, HVAC, guest bath, hallway, one outlet
Front wall (east): entry way door, ½ bath, laundry room, one outlet
North wall: insulated, water pipes, interior & exterior wall
South wall: non-insulated
Garage door (west): non-insulated
Floor: cement slab



As you can see the place really needs to be spruced up. There's crap everywhere, shelves are mismatched and there's just no good flow. It's your normal garage. It is used as the primary pass through to the house. I do a variety of projects here such as woodwork, metalwork, vehicle maintenance, stationary bike workouts and general ‘fixin’ stuff’. It also serves as the only home storage area. The garage could use more outlets and more light. It was going to get new drywall and insulation but that part was chopped for cost. My husband also wants to park his car in here. Oh boy. Let's get started.


(Disclaimer: This thread is to chronicle the work, not to show off accumulated display quality stuff. It will be boring and long-winded. It will take me forever as I'm the one doing the work when I have time in my real life of a self-employed, thirty-something married gal running a house.)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Garage before.jpg (80.3 KB, 1937 views)
File Type: jpg garage dimension.jpg (62.1 KB, 1779 views)
File Type: jpg Garage before 2.jpg (75.4 KB, 1514 views)
File Type: jpg Garage before 3.jpg (89.3 KB, 1615 views)
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My Garage: Reorganization, it's like a renovation

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Old 04-17-2011, 10:07 AM   #2
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

This is what I'm planning for the front shelves



Sunday, April 10


The first step is to get the sprinkler control box off the front wall. It and its PVC tubing take up both front walls. Doing so is a matter of unscrewing the wire terminals for each zone, then unscrewing the box from the wall, then pulling apart the ¾” PVC that houses the 18’ of wiring. When that was done I temporarily mounted the box on the side wall, rolled up the extra wire and will run the system using an extension cord. Not a big deal for now. I also moved the garage door opener buttons from the wall to the door trim. When you've lived with that crappy PVC for as long as we have we can see a difference already.


Cost: $0



Behind the welder you can see the patch covering where the cat door use to be. I’ve already patched the brickwork on the outside. Just need to mud the joints and paint the wall. Don't ask about that gap on the right





After pulling that stuff down I hopped online and asked why paint flakes off walls HERE. Then I took a scraper to the peeling sections. Then I made a hole and pulled a peek patch. Finding no evidence of moisture, old or critters, I had a patch to repair now.



Wednesday, April 13



With two other patches in the garage that needed the same attention I hit Lowes for joint compound, joint webbing and some new paint.

Cost: $72
I bought a $20 Home Wiring book in addition to supplies
Attached Images
File Type: jpg shelf plans.jpg (109.8 KB, 880 views)
File Type: jpg Relocate sprinkler box.jpg (55.4 KB, 851 views)
File Type: jpg patched hole.jpg (73.1 KB, 694 views)
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My Garage: Reorganization, it's like a renovation

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Old 04-17-2011, 10:31 AM   #3
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Friday, April 15


Pulled all the stuff off the front walls, wiped them down and painted them with a couple layers of Kilz Original. Finally got a nice uniform wall and they’re ready for shelves. I also put a layer on the trim around the door. I’m so sick of the ugly brown.

Saturday, April 16



After letting the front wall paint and door trim set overnight I gave it a few layers of some Behr latex green color we had left from painting the den. I figured what the heck. It is a nice change. I also gave the side wall by the cat door it’s coat of white paint. It is awesome to have that ugly thing gone. Though I swear I can still see it through the paint. Guess the horror is etched in my mind.

While I let the paint dry I ran to Lowes to get the lumber for the shelves. With a head of steam I cut twenty 8’ 2x4s to size.

Cost: $79

- 20 2x4x8'
- 5lb 3.5" deck screws
- 1lb box 1 5/8" deck screws
- couple paint rollers





From there I built the first four shelves, marked the walls and got them just about up. It was coming up on 10pm and I was running out of steam. That top shelf is a doozie. It’s time for a shower and bed. Hopefully finish the shelves tomorrow and maybe start the paint. I should have enough green paint left to do the shelves.


Sorry about the blur on some pics. I had the camera settings wrong.
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File Type: jpg green door trim.jpg (73.8 KB, 518 views)
File Type: jpg shelves first part.jpg (48.4 KB, 704 views)
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My Garage: Reorganization, it's like a renovation

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Old 04-17-2011, 10:57 AM   #4
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Slightly off-topic,but tell us about your scooter.
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Old 04-17-2011, 01:00 PM   #5
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GirlnAgarage View Post
We don't have no beer. Just tequila.

What's tequila?

It's like beer.

Is it fattening?

Fattenings?

Forget it. If it's like beer,
we'll have some. Three tequilas.

Sure. Sure, amigos.


¡Three Amigos! (1986)



GirlnAgarage's Garage Reorganization







Ok, so the two terms really aren't the same - reorganization, renovation. Ya, big difference. Our HVAC unit really helped us understand that in this thread

HERE.

It was $9400 worth of ouch (DH really wanted the heat pump system). It is what it is. We'll make due.

May 25th will mark two years since we closed on this house, our first 'own' home. Prior to we rented as DH was active duty Navy.

Specs
Build year: 1985
Size: 370sqft (18.5’x20’)
18’4”w x 19’10¾”d x 8’3” h
Ceiling: master bedroom & bath, HVAC, guest bath, hallway, one outlet
Front wall (east): entry way door, ½ bath, laundry room, one outlet
North wall: insulated, water pipes, interior & exterior wall
South wall: non-insulated
Garage door (west): non-insulated
Floor: cement slab










As you can see the place really needs to be spruced up. There's crap everywhere, shelves are mismatched and there's just no good flow. It's your normal garage. It is used as the primary pass through to the house. I do a variety of projects here such as woodwork, metalwork, vehicle maintenance, stationary bike workouts and general ‘fixin’ stuff’. It also serves as the only home storage area. The garage could use more outlets and more light. It was going to get new drywall and insulation but that part was chopped for cost. My husband also wants to park his car in here. Oh boy. Let's get started.


(Disclaimer: This thread is to chronicle the work, not to show off accumulated display quality stuff. It will be boring and long-winded. It will take me forever as I'm the one doing the work when I have time in my real life of a self-employed, thirty-something married gal running a house.)

Hi GirlinAgarage . I think you figured out the picture posting thing by the second post in this thread . Just incase though you can see the differance here between my quote and your original post . The trick to this is when you get done writing before placing an image tag hit the enter button a couple of times and then again hit it once or twice between image tags . This will keep your post going up and down and pictures lined up one ontop of another instead of them going sideways . Looks like a fun project and not to terribly out of shape to start with . Looking forward to seeing how it turns out .


Rick

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Old 04-17-2011, 01:04 PM   #6
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

what software are you using? I like the 3d of the car that shows how much space it occupies
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:05 PM   #7
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trbomax View Post
Slightly off-topic,but tell us about your scooter.

2001 (IIRC) Kawasaki Vulcan 750...cobra pipes (loud as heck) and a jet kit...drag bars...



Quote:
Originally Posted by rickairmedic View Post
Hi GirlinAgarage . I think you figured out the picture posting thing by the second post in this thread . Just incase though you can see the differance here between my quote and your original post . The trick to this is when you get done writing before placing an image tag hit the enter button a couple of times and then again hit it once or twice between image tags . This will keep your post going up and down and pictures lined up one ontop of another instead of them going sideways . Looks like a fun project and not to terribly out of shape to start with . Looking forward to seeing how it turns out .


Rick
Thanks Rick I think I had the pics tagged centered. And I'm not sizing them down as much as I probably should so they're still kinda big.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMark View Post
what software are you using? I like the 3d of the car that shows how much space it occupies

Google Sketchup. Yup the car is for reference to be certain it'll fit. What I did was take the overall dimensions of the car (minus mirrors) and made a box. Then I downloaded an online version of the car's rendering then scaled it to fit in my box. If you look close there's a rectangle on the garage floor near the door. That's my reference/drag point for the corner of the car's box. Makes moving in and out of the garage in the sketch much easier
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:12 PM   #8
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Yep I removed all the center tags as well in my QUOTE . I will say the picture sizes themselves are fine I am old and my eyes dont work like they used to . I need to get back to work on my garage " been organising" for 4 or 5 years now and I think its almost as bad today as when I first started well ok its not that bad but its not done yet either .


Rick
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:16 PM   #9
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickairmedic View Post
Yep I removed all the center tags as well in my QUOTE . I will say the picture sizes themselves are fine I am old and my eyes dont work like they used to . I need to get back to work on my garage " been organising" for 4 or 5 years now and I think its almost as bad today as when I first started well ok its not that bad but its not done yet either .


Rick
Lol


Cool My laptop screen is a little smaller than my last one and I've got the setting on a high resolution. So, I'm not certain what my stuff looks like on someone else's screen.

Well I better get back to work. I came in for a bite to eat. Got the second set of shelves together and my lines drawn. Just gotta hang them and I can lay some paint if I'm feeling up to it.
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:33 PM   #10
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

hi,

okey, dokey

so here goes my formula --- measure your junk.
How do you measure? - with tape measure, n'book & pen go to your local WalMart.
find the Sterilite (plastic storage bins) aisle. there are 5 basic
shapes & your WMT may not stock sizes as my store. Pick out the shapes
you think will hold the organized & miscellaneous junk you own. now measure
them. write down all of the dimensions (with lids affixed) including inner
depth. go home & start organizing your junk into these dimensions.
Why am I doing this? (u may ask) - quick story . . . i owned a pretty serious hobbyist
machine shop (serious & hobbyist is not an oxymoron phrase). i had all
of my junk nicely organized on shelving 32" from the ceiling & 28" from the
perimeter wall -- basically a perimeter bunkbed hung from the ceiling. my buddy came over
one day & was bored. we talked about my intent to design & build a
geodesic dome (the Fuller variety). on the sly my aspiring engineer minded
friend got a pad & a calculator from my desk. while i am deep into
a machining project he quietly calculated the total square feet of my in use
storage (the bunkbed stuff). 35 minutes later my geodesic dome plan
got nixed ---- why? because my raised bunkbed storage was in
sqare footage equal to my on floor sqare footage. so no geodesic dome for me.

finally, i can't say enough about the Sterilite system for organizing. its
quick, its consistent & its fool-proof. once the dimensions are established
the constructor can easily design a shelving system to meet the objectives
for each bin & the summation for all of the bins. yes, you will say to me --
we are broke! i know. its painful. but the long run will outlive your
emphasis on the short run cost structure.
just have faith . . . .
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:24 PM   #11
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Sunday, April 17


Finished putting up the shelves. The top shelf of each was tough. I decided to call it a day. I'm tired. Next up is to mask off the walls to paint. After paint I'll lay the 1/2" plywood, then transfer over items to start clearing off the plastic shelves and side walls.

I'm realizing this reorganizing isn't spectacular or flashy, but it still has to be done to have a fresh look without spending a ton of money. It's more like spending a ton of elbow grease.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:37 PM   #12
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

The shelves look good and even better when you get a little extra money ahead it wont be hard to take some plywood and close them in and put doors on them to hide all the stuff inside .


Rick
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:08 PM   #13
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

You gonna paint all that shelving? That will keep mold at bay. If you still have some Kilz lefy, that could work.

Lookin' good so far.
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:30 PM   #14
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

You're doing good, and fear not.... It has been my experience that reorganization is as good as remodeling. I did the same thing about 6 months ago and my garage is much more comfortable and user friendly since. Keep up the good work and keep it coming.....subscribed.
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:33 PM   #15
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Nice start! You can never have too much shelf space!
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:02 PM   #16
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickairmedic View Post
The shelves look good and even better when you get a little extra money ahead it wont be hard to take some plywood and close them in and put doors on them to hide all the stuff inside .


Rick


Thanks Rick. I'm keeping the options open about the doors. I do like that I can hide everything but they would make getting in there difficult if the car is in. Nothing major, just a consideration


Quote:
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You gonna paint all that shelving? That will keep mold at bay. If you still have some Kilz lefy, that could work.

Lookin' good so far.
Thank you.

I have pretty much a whole gallon of Kilz left. But I don't have a mold problem so I'm not thinking I need to use it on the shelves. I'm planning the green Behr latex.

I will be putting the Kilz on the sidewalls again once I clear out the plastic shelves. I'm going to reinforce the current drywall with additional screws since its pulling away from the studs due to the use of nails. So, I'll have some screw heads to patch. Plus some paint peeling areas to fix.

We're not destitute by any means, but I'm going to try to not buy more supplies than I have to doing any extras.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Submarine_Sailor View Post
You're doing good, and fear not.... It has been my experience that reorganization is as good as remodeling. I did the same thing about 6 months ago and my garage is much more comfortable and user friendly since. Keep up the good work and keep it coming.....subscribed.
Thanks! I'm looking forward to more user friendly. What we have isn't bad and I've done a lot in there. Just one of those 'would be nice if' kinda things. I appreciate the encouragement

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Nice start! You can never have too much shelf space!
Agreed!
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:41 AM   #17
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

I had a similar access issue for some shelves I built and ended up using coated canvas drop sheets intended for painting as curtains to keep stuff hidden and reduce dust build up. They've worked great and being coated they are somewhat stiff and don't move around too much.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:45 AM   #18
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I had a similar access issue for some shelves I built and ended up using coated canvas drop sheets intended for painting as curtains to keep stuff hidden and reduce dust build up. They've worked great and being coated they are somewhat stiff and don't move around too much.

I'm so glad you mentioned that. I was seriously considering curtains but didn't want to say it

Any pics of your setup?
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:14 PM   #19
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Looking good so far. You do one hell of job in sketchup too. How long did it take to do all that.
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:27 PM   #20
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Looking good so far. You do one hell of job in sketchup too. How long did it take to do all that.
Thanks

Hard to say how long I've spent on the garage drawings. I go back and doodle when I get an idea. Before I got started I took a couple of dedicated days to learn sketch up with the tutorials. It was painstakingly slow. Since doing that I can work up a sketch fairly quick.

To draw up a room I take the laptopto where I'm measuring and input everything on the spot. Keeps me from having to take a note pad and write down everything twice.
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:32 PM   #21
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Monday, April 18


Painted the shelves. I had enough paint to do the inside of the boards but I decided to leave them bare. I'll be leaving the top plywood bare and I kind of like the color contrast between the dark green, the bare wood and the white walls. I'm suspecting I'll do my workbench with this green when that time comes.

Well, doesn't look like much yet until I can start clearing the floor. I'm gonna let the paint dry while I figure out how much plywood I need.
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:02 PM   #22
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

You are doing an excellent job! Keep it up.

Close in the ends of the shelf units with plywood and use old school roller shades. If you want to get fancy, you can even put facer boards on your upright 2x4's to keep them from flapping in the breeze when the garage door is open
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:21 PM   #23
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

It was a pain in the ass, but I painted all my shelf board white latex... it seals the wood and keeps them from absorbing grease and oil (I store a lot of car parts), but it also reflects light making the back wall of the shop seem a little brighter.

I painted both sides of my shelves in Florida (top and underside), and it made a really big difference.

Just something to consider.

Project is looking really good!

-Brad
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:22 PM   #24
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

April 18...a little later...


I went out and painted the rest. I couldn't stand it



I'm gonna go grill something. Time for supper.
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:34 PM   #25
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Quote:
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May 25th will mark two years since we closed on this house, our first 'own' home. Prior to we rented as DH was active duty Navy.

[/I]
Give my thanks to DH for his service, and my thanks to you for putting up with it!
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Old 04-18-2011, 08:02 PM   #26
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Give my thanks to DH for his service, and my thanks to you for putting up with it!
What he said
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:19 PM   #27
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Thanks guys for the ideas!

I will also pass on the message to DH. I'm sure he will appreciate it!
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:23 PM   #28
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Looks good! Keep the updates coming.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:30 PM   #29
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Great simple design. Looking forward to seeing more updates.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:58 PM   #30
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Tuesday, April 19

Added up the plywood and I figure on four 4x8' sheets to get my eight 20"x70" shelves. While I was reviewing the options (and reading about sagging) I felt I better add a center support. The 70" span is wide. I shoulda built those in when I framed the shelf but I figured the 20" width wouldn't have me worry. I always end up second guessing myself But, better be safe than sorry...man I'm a slow DIYer. I had enough leftovers from the original lumber plus a few pieces from a previous project to get the cross supports together. I was crawling around on those shelves like a monkey in a jungle gym. I figured I'd fall off for good measure but that never materialized.

I meant to go get the plywood but eh, maybe tomorrow. I had some other stuff to take care of. But the sooner I get the plywood cut and installed the sooner I can move stuff!

Look. Now I have more stuff to paint.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:31 PM   #31
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Wednesday, April 20

Finally feels like some progress.

Went to Lowes and picked out four 19/32" 4x8' plywood sheets. The guy there said he could rip cut the lengths I needed so I said 'let's do it' as it would save me some time and work. I had the guy cut each whole sheet to 70", then rip cut two 20"s. That left me with two 8x70"s (no clue what I'll use those for) and four good sized 26x48" which will be good tops for the workbench(s?) I'll build later.

Cost $62


I screwed the tops and got started moving some things over. Only the stuff I knew was staying. Now is a good time to sort crap from the shelves and throw out, sell or donate stuff we don't need. Heck, I'm even gonna sell the shelves


Oh six boxes of Christmas stuff. MIL has got to stop sending us decorations she goes crazy buying at those after Christmas sales
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:50 PM   #32
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great job im going to build some shelfs as well looks like you still have lots of room left on them shelves.but im sure that wont last long never does
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:22 PM   #33
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Good 4 u! And I love the paint on them too!
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:47 AM   #34
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

As far as doors go, if you decide to, make the doors where they are bypass doors instead of opening out. The shelves turned out great. Looks like it is really going to open up the garage floor space now.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:15 AM   #35
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Lookin good! Way to take the bull by the horns and do it yourself!
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:43 AM   #36
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great job im going to build some shelfs as well looks like you still have lots of room left on them shelves.but im sure that wont last long never does
Thanks! And that's what I'm afraid off.


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Good 4 u! And I love the paint on them too!
Thank you.

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As far as doors go, if you decide to, make the doors where they are bypass doors instead of opening out. The shelves turned out great. Looks like it is really going to open up the garage floor space now.

I hadn't thought of bypass doors - thanks You're right, it really does open up floor space. I've got 3 of the 4 floor shelves cleared, the last being one that holds yard stuff. I'm holding onto the shelves until I get the shed built. Might need one or two of them in there.

Things are moving along.

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Lookin good! Way to take the bull by the horns and do it yourself!
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:28 AM   #37
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looks good.
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:55 AM   #38
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looks good.
Thanks petee



Feels like it has been forever since I had a chance to work on this. The last few weeks I've been burning $4/gal diesel across the state and it isn't over yet. I'll head out next week to run a team marathon on the weekend. I sure hope it rains, otherwise it'll be killer hot. Should be the last run (pun intended) for a while, thank goodness.

Before this last trip out I got one side of the garage cleared out and DH did get his car in. "Yay, it fits - but you don't get to park inside until your motorcycle is out. That's still my half buddy".

I'll be working my way down the side walls and getting the sprinkler box set once and for all. I'm also debating a color scheme.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:58 AM   #39
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Look’n good!

Some ideas:

Extension ladders are needed but seldom used. Hang it from the ceiling; hang the step ladder on the wall under the ext. ladder – for convenience when you need to get the ext.

Garage sale the rest of the sagging plastic shelving and build more of the wooden units. They look like crap next to your construction. Great job on them BTW.

Hang the mower on the wall (spark plug up) high enough to keep from bumping your head. Or…on your next shelving module, build the bottom shelf high enough for the mower to fit under with the handle folded. Mowers are a bitch to store and consume considerable floor space.

Cabinets on the side walls against the ceiling would take the seldom used (Christmas stuff etc.) items out of your way and they don’t consume floor space (build them high enough so you don’t bump your head.)

I don’t know if we’re neighbors or not. I’m in Eastland – but Texas is a pretty big country!
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:32 AM   #40
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Look’n good!

Some ideas:

Extension ladders are needed but seldom used. Hang it from the ceiling; hang the step ladder on the wall under the ext. ladder – for convenience when you need to get the ext.

Garage sale the rest of the sagging plastic shelving and build more of the wooden units. They look like crap next to your construction. Great job on them BTW.

Hang the mower on the wall (spark plug up) high enough to keep from bumping your head. Or…on your next shelving module, build the bottom shelf high enough for the mower to fit under with the handle folded. Mowers are a bitch to store and consume considerable floor space.

Cabinets on the side walls against the ceiling would take the seldom used (Christmas stuff etc.) items out of your way and they don’t consume floor space (build them high enough so you don’t bump your head.)

I don’t know if we’re neighbors or not. I’m in Eastland – but Texas is a pretty big country!

Thanks Mike for the ideas. We are neighbors. You're only an hour or so away. I'm in Grapevine. Isn't it funny that here in TX we count distance by hours and one is close???

I will be heeding that advice on the ladders. Ladders are great to have when you need them, but the rest of the time they can be cumbersome to move and store in smaller spaces.

For the lawn equipment I'll be building a shed in the back yard. I'm excited at the prospect of clearing some more room. But the fruits of that labor are farther away until I get the shed built. When I don't have time I have the energy. When I have the energy I don't have time.

I'm trying to coincide the shed build with this garage work so I can shuffle stuff around as I go. It is the shuffling of stuff that takes the energy right out.


Oh, the last thing I'm thinking I'll do is a nice long workbench with some storage underneath. I'll put that on that left side where the water heater nook creates that extra 30" width on that side of the garage. It seems it would fit better there. Plus my husband can park nose in on the right side. He's not very good at backing up vehicles especially to park
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:48 PM   #41
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I wouldn't hang a mower on the wall unless it was electric. They don't tend to like it much. But you can loosen the bolts securing the handle and fold it over on itself. Is it easier to store under things.
Over head cabinets on the side walls are great ways to add additional storage, but I see overhead space is limited. You can run them between the back wall and the garage door rails. They also provide a convenient place to hang a light over a workbench or frame a pegboard backing above the workbench.
Personally, I would move the decorations into the attic. I am a firm believer that the only things that belong in a garage are things used in the garage. The scrap plywood could be used to make a flooring over the joists up there. It would also give you twice a year to go into the attic and checking things up there. Making sure the insulation is adequate and no critters have moved in. While you are up there, you could drop a a few more outlets for use in the garage. Place one for the sprinkler system and a few on the wall for your workbench.
When do you plan on starting the shed? Also, always go bigger than you think you will need. It will always get used and appreciated. I don't know anyone who ever said they wish they built a smaller shed, but I hear it the other way around.
And it seems we are practically neighbors as well. I am down in the Waxahachie area. If you find that you need help with anything, let me know.
And that is a tough choice between the bike and the car in the garage. Ultimately, I would choose the bike.
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:33 PM   #42
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I wouldn't hang a mower on the wall unless it was electric. They don't tend to like it much. But you can loosen the bolts securing the handle and fold it over on itself. Is it easier to store under things.
Over head cabinets on the side walls are great ways to add additional storage, but I see overhead space is limited. You can run them between the back wall and the garage door rails. They also provide a convenient place to hang a light over a workbench or frame a pegboard backing above the workbench.
Personally, I would move the decorations into the attic. I am a firm believer that the only things that belong in a garage are things used in the garage. The scrap plywood could be used to make a flooring over the joists up there. It would also give you twice a year to go into the attic and checking things up there. Making sure the insulation is adequate and no critters have moved in. While you are up there, you could drop a a few more outlets for use in the garage. Place one for the sprinkler system and a few on the wall for your workbench.
When do you plan on starting the shed? Also, always go bigger than you think you will need. It will always get used and appreciated. I don't know anyone who ever said they wish they built a smaller shed, but I hear it the other way around.
And it seems we are practically neighbors as well. I am down in the Waxahachie area. If you find that you need help with anything, let me know.
And that is a tough choice between the bike and the car in the garage. Ultimately, I would choose the bike.

I'm definitely looking at the attic to get those seasonal boxes out of the garage. The problem we have is the attic is so small that it's virtually unusable for storage. We also just had more insulation blown in. I read on another thread that it's not a good idea to compress that stuff as it pretty much makes it useless. DH said they made it a foot deep. So I wouldn't be able to lay down plywood sheets if that's the case. I still need to have a look again (cumbersome as I have to drag the ladder upstairs). There might be a way to get at least a couple larger boxes out of the way.

I want to start the shed in the next couple weeks before it really starts getting hot. Since I'm on the wall phase of the reorganization it would be nice to get the rest of that yard stuff out so I don't have to keep pushing it around the garage. I need to decide on how I want to build it and which piece of the yard. I have two spots in mind along the same wall. I also have to cap a couple sprinkler heads.

I also would have chosen the bike to be in the garage. I don't blame DH though, he loves his car and is not that fond of this bike. He doesn't ride it much and is wanting to sell it. He wants an ST2 again. We're just bored of the riding here though. I haven't even gotten another bike for myself. We came in from Japan where we were on mountain roads in 20 min from the house. Here though, it just ain't the same

Ah well, we'll see. The M stays on the license and we can jump back in when we feel like it
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:46 PM   #43
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I cruise a few back roads around here. Able to make a few hour trip out of it with good twistys. And that leads me back to the highway I live off of and can head straight back at a faster pace.

I was going to mention trying to get the shed up before the heat comes.

Do you not have a pull down ladder for the attic? I could see how that could make it a bit more difficult.
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Old 05-15-2011, 05:19 PM   #44
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I cruise a few back roads around here. Able to make a few hour trip out of it with good twistys. And that leads me back to the highway I live off of and can head straight back at a faster pace.

I was going to mention trying to get the shed up before the heat comes.

Do you not have a pull down ladder for the attic? I could see how that could make it a bit more difficult.

Our attic does not have a pull down ladder. The access is located in the upstairs hallway and it is turned the long ways across the short width of the hallway. They were short on head work when they built that. We drag out 6' folding ladder up there when have to get up there (service only up to this point).
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Old 05-15-2011, 05:32 PM   #45
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Today I grabbed the stud finder, pencil, level and got to work finding studs. I screwed the dry wall on the lower half of both walls to secure it better. Those nails they use are terrible for the long term hanging drywall. In most sections the screw snugged the drywall back down to the studs that the nails popped out of the surface. Many ~1/8th", some even a 1/4".

Really I should have torn down all the drywall so I could insulate but that's not in the cards now. Maybe sometime when a little extra $ is around I'll rent the machine and blow some stuff in the wall cavities. Or rip it all down and spray. Still need to screw the upper half. Those are a hard reach for me applying enough pressure to the drill & screw so the had doesn't spin. Working with one hand sucks sometimes.



I did open a section near the water pipe. My stud finder was going crazy and I had to figure it out. This is what I found.




Whoever worked on this left their Slice bottle. It's glass its so old. I also found that the exterior walls are not insulated.

What you see there is the north wall. Before I close this up should I be thinking about insulation?



Some how during the day I managed to break the garage door. The opener doesn't work. The sights are aligned everything is on track. But the thing just doesn't want to work. Ehhh...

I'm going to eat some dinner. But glad to be making a little more progress.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:24 PM   #46
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THAT'S where I left my Slice!

If it's the beam sensor, try unplugging the unit and plugging it back in. Then start checking connections at the sensors and the main unit, then start checking the thin wire that runs to the sensors.
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:06 PM   #47
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Also make sure you wipe the lenses on the sensors. Ask me how I know this, go ahead, ask.

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Old 05-15-2011, 10:21 PM   #48
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THAT'S where I left my Slice!

If it's the beam sensor, try unplugging the unit and plugging it back in. Then start checking connections at the sensors and the main unit, then start checking the thin wire that runs to the sensors.

Some poor guy was thirsty all day long cause he lost track of his soda

I tried unplugging the unit but that didn't seem to make a difference. I did get the door to slowly close if I held down the button, but when it got to the sensor level it would bounce back up again. If I press the button too any times the door completely stops responding, not even a click from the motor that it's trying. It reminds me of cranking a car so many times the battery starts wearing down and eventually quits.

For the night we released the arm from the track and shut it manually.


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Also make sure you wipe the lenses on the sensors. Ask me how I know this, go ahead, ask.

Steve
Steve, how do you know to wipe the lenses?? I"ll take a good cloth and cleaner to them in the morning. I wiped them but it was with my dirty fingers. Probably smudged them worse.


I appreciate the suggestions. If it doesn't work in the morning with those troubleshoots I'll go online and start searching.
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:36 AM   #49
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Also make sure you wipe the lenses on the sensors. Ask me how I know this, go ahead, ask.

Steve
Nice avatar Steve V...

Did you get the door working? If its not an "eye" problem, did you bump something that made it stop working?
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Old 05-16-2011, 07:22 AM   #50
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Nice avatar Steve V...

Did you get the door working? If its not an "eye" problem, did you bump something that made it stop working?

Having some coffee now but I'll be out there in a while. I did bump the sensor when I was putting in the first column of screws on the drywall at the very front of the garage. I was kneeling/squatting right beside/front of it. I had the door open all day long and was in and out as I scooted items off the wall. I attempted to close it for the evening and that's when I discovered the problem. The only work I did in the garage was put screws in drywall. I'm scratching my head how I broke the door by doing that
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:10 PM   #51
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Went out and sprayed the sensors with windex and cleaned them off. That helped. I guess all the dust from sanding the repaired holes blocked vision. The sensors connected. So I hooked up the arm and pressed the door button. The door twitched then stopped. I noticed the connectors broke connectivity (from the indicator lights). I went down and adjusted the sensors, tried again and it worked. I'm thinking I knocked one sensor enough yesterday that any movement of the door would move the sensors out of alignment so it would quit.

I appreciate the help on this guys. Glad it was just the sensor alignment and not the unit. I'm headed outside to finish up the walls and start patching screw heads.
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:56 PM   #52
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I'm scratching my head how I broke the door by doing that
As others have said, those things can be a pain the butt when they're not working right. Glad you got it working!
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:21 AM   #53
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Went out and sprayed the sensors with windex and cleaned them off. That helped. I guess all the dust from sanding the repaired holes blocked vision. The sensors connected. So I hooked up the arm and pressed the door button. The door twitched then stopped. I noticed the connectors broke connectivity (from the indicator lights). I went down and adjusted the sensors, tried again and it worked. I'm thinking I knocked one sensor enough yesterday that any movement of the door would move the sensors out of alignment so it would quit.
Our garage door opener (a Hormann) - the sensors are very sensitive to direct sunlight (love those blue Alberta skies). There is a certain time in the day when the sun is basically shining full bore right into one sensor. So it will "twitch then stop" and you either have to go stand outside and make a shadow over the sensor and close it, or put something that casts a shadow. Such a stupid system.

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Old 05-17-2011, 11:38 AM   #54
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It just occurred to me. You should check out wBrian63's solution to these sensors. The post is on page 5 of his thread. You can put your woodworking skills to further use:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...t=60859&page=5

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Old 05-18-2011, 08:48 AM   #55
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It just occurred to me. You should check out wBrian63's solution to these sensors. The post is on page 5 of his thread. You can put your woodworking skills to further use:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...t=60859&page=5


Excellent - thank you. Those sensor protectors would certainly keep them in place
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:27 PM   #56
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Today I sanded the compound spots I put over the screw heads. I also scraped the flaky paint on the north wall. Should have reversed the two processes but I wasn't thinking.


Do I want to know why the drywall looks like this?

I'm starting to think I am spinning my wheels.
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:55 PM   #57
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

After a good long break I did a little work today. I need my garage back. Nothing too strenuous today, just the white coats of paint. Previously I repaired holes and prepped the walls. I started to get a little burnt out working in there. I needed to get outside. Working in the garage only is very narrow scoped. Also the timing is perfect for my west facing garage and 100* weather.

Cost $70


Anyway, the paint I grabbed was some Valspar exterior latex semigloss. I was impressed at the thickness and consistency of the paint. It went on real easy and clean up was a cinch. For the rest I plan on dark green on the bottom (that matches the shelves) and a black dividing strip. Not 100% decided but pretty close. No pics today because it's nothing spectacular. Maybe next time. Still gotta build that shed and start clearing the floor.

Time for chinese takeout and a cold beer. Until next time.
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Old 07-23-2011, 05:01 PM   #58
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Got the stripes on the wall. I went with a green on green. Who'd have thought, fashion people are right about horizontal stripes making things look wide They actually do the garage walls some good. Since on my walls you can see a lot of the imperfections, mainly the big 48" drywall seam running door to front wall from the POs crappy mud job, the stripes attract the attention now.

I'm a bit rashed, in three small areas the blasted paint came off when I pulled the tape. After I busted butt scraping the paint until it wouldn't scrape anymore. Next time I think I'll just put sheets of contact paper on the walls and peel it off. Sorta give the walls a Brazilian wax job.

Getting a cold beverage now.
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Old 07-26-2011, 05:47 PM   #59
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I rearranged junk again. Got the sprinkler box mounted on the wall and trimmed the wires from like 15' to 3'. Still need to put the away in a loom or tube. I also pulled my work bench and got it painted.

Here's where I'm at:
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:22 PM   #60
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The bench looks great. I like the stripe, too.
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:52 PM   #61
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The bench looks great. I like the stripe, too.

Thank you Jack
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:28 PM   #62
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WOW!

NOW it's looking really amazing with the paint work. I like it!
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:22 PM   #63
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Looking great. Painting in this heat is not fun!
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:24 PM   #64
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WOW!

NOW it's looking really amazing with the paint work. I like it!
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Looking great. Painting in this heat is not fun!


Thank you thank you Nighttrain ain't that the truth. Its been brutal. 105, 106...it's all the same after 100*. I guess what is hard is it doesn't even cool off at night. Been 86* which I believe set the record for the highest low temp ever for the area.


I'm happy about the paint. Really happy. It's nice to have a different view in there and not the same old boring walls. Refreshing. I did have to giggle a little bit after I was finished. The stripe and color reminds me of a pair of old school athletic socks my dad had from his high school football days - go Greyhounds!


I still have a ways to go but getting the walls done was key so I can start arranging things. Still gotta build a shed.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:03 PM   #65
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I might steal your White Walls and stripes idea - except the stripe in red.
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:20 AM   #66
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I might steal your White Walls and stripes idea - except the stripe in red.
Go for it then post them pics!
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:44 AM   #67
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very nice project! can't wait to see it finished......
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Old 07-28-2011, 05:21 PM   #68
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Looks great!

Is that a Charger and Ram I see?
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Old 07-28-2011, 05:50 PM   #69
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Nice Job....
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:18 PM   #70
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very nice project! can't wait to see it finished......

Thank you. Makes two us!


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Looks great!

Is that a Charger and Ram I see?
Thanks! It is...both 06s - a 5.7 Hemi and a Cummins. I see you're a Dodge man? Calibers?



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Nice Job....
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:13 AM   #71
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I'm typically not a fan of green - but it sure works with the white. The stripe ties the elements together.

Look'n good!
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:58 AM   #72
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I'm typically not a fan of green - but it sure works with the white. The stripe ties the elements together.

Look'n good!


Thanks Mike
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:07 AM   #73
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I was screwing around the garage last week. I needed to build something and have a finished project for my sanity (I may have a problem). I built my yard a little decoration out of the wood slats from the old bench that use to be in the backyard.


A couple deck screws and some spray paint, and viola.



Before sticking it on the fence I used it for a beefcake shot of my leather.


Yall like the yard? That's 38 consecutive days of 100+ temps. Rain please.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:19 AM   #74
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I don't know 'bout you - but I kinda like the statement that leather on a Texas flag makes!

Galco?
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:26 AM   #75
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I was reading through a site last night and ran across this article, The Philosophy of Storage. It gave me an idea to try in my garage, the suggestion of the perpendicular-to-the-wall shelf arrangement.




I had the black Rubbermaids then moved them over for the white pair. I think they blend better with the walls and don't close off the space. Between the two shelves I can run a 10' workbench which I believe I will do (with casters). This will be a taller bench so I can store my welders and the shop vac underneath. I'm thinking I can run peg board up there as well to get a lot of those saws and other hand tools into a place of their own.

The deal with this north wall is two cavities contain water lines. I'm hesitant to permanently attach studs or shelving to the wall in case those lines need maintenance and wall access is required. Whatever I stick up there has to be reasonably (re)movable. Which is why casters are considered for the 10' workbench.

Anyway, just brainstorming. I got real work to do but I really don't want to be working on it.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:38 AM   #76
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I don't know 'bout you - but I kinda like the statement that leather on a Texas flag makes!

Galco?

It is a very bold photo.

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Old 08-10-2011, 05:23 PM   #77
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Got tired of dragging the Lincoln Tombstone around on its wood skids. I built a dolly from the metal frame of that old desk I stole the top from and put there on my bench. Might eventually add a exoskeleton so I can hang the cords better. It'll do for now. It makes moving this around much easier, especially now where I rearrange things a lot to get it right (yeah, think of your wife moving the furniture around the living room in twenty different configurations).

I still need a chop saw.

Cost $15
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:25 PM   #78
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Installed some casters on my 24x48" workbench. Makes rolling this thing around a piece of cake. I don't like that I can't use this as a stable base for clamping workpieces to saw/cut on (brake locks are kind of weak and the wheels swivel). I'll remedy that with the 8-10' bench I'm planning. If I get enough umph maybe I'll install some lever activated rubber stops...if I'm bored and really have nothing else to do. The additional height to the bench is good too. Helps relieve the stress on my neck and shoulders. And with a titanium plates and screws in my neck, it helps considerably.

Cost $32
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:49 PM   #79
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Started getting my big workbench together. Still pretty hot around here. Not really much of a plan on the bench, just winging it.

It's 10'x2'


I'm kinda stuck and thinking on what I need to do next. I'm thinking a drawer in the top center for my writing utensils. The main center section I'm anticipating these being my tool drawers. On either side I'm thinking maybe shelves And maybe I can squeeze a wide narrow "cookie sheet" type storage drawer under the right and left sections.

I don't know how I feel about making drawers out of wood. I kind of wanted to use sheetmetal.


Going to layer the top - .5" plywood then topped with 3/4" birch top




As usual it isn't square or level - my trademarks.
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:08 PM   #80
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Ok saw something abput the garage door sensors and a trick Ive been doing for alot of ppl is whatever veichle you plan on putting in garage set them to the height of thr rear bumped and serve 2 purposes 1 youll never close garage down on car and 2 tells you when your in far enough so you can have the maxium amount of room in front of car. Other thing for selfves if you dont like look make sliding doors like youll would see for a closet. I see them done with pegboard and like it. Looking good
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:12 AM   #81
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Ok saw something abput the garage door sensors and a trick Ive been doing for alot of ppl is whatever veichle you plan on putting in garage set them to the height of thr rear bumped and serve 2 purposes 1 youll never close garage down on car and 2 tells you when your in far enough so you can have the maxium amount of room in front of car.
It seems to me this makes practical sense to me. Is there a safety issue involved?
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:21 AM   #82
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Ok saw something abput the garage door sensors and a trick Ive been doing for alot of ppl is whatever veichle you plan on putting in garage set them to the height of thr rear bumped and serve 2 purposes 1 youll never close garage down on car and 2 tells you when your in far enough so you can have the maxium amount of room in front of car. Other thing for selfves if you dont like look make sliding doors like youll would see for a closet. I see them done with pegboard and like it. Looking good


I'll have a look at moving the sensors. Thanks for the idea. The car in there is a tight squeeze front to back. I figure DH will hit my shelves at least once as well as scrape the bumper with the door.

In Japan our garage had the cement bump stops on the floor similar to those in parking lots. They did awesome for parking placement. What I didn't like was constantly tripping over the things. I might stick a couple dune buggy flags (cut to ~3' or 4') in a little base material and place them along the car body lines as it sits in the garage. Maybe one on the right front quarter and one at the mirror. Draw the location on the floor with a Sharpie so the flags are moveable and they're light enough they won't damage the car. These will be parking aids. Of course, I have a better solution but it would start an argument
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:00 AM   #83
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

You could solve the parking situation the way I did " although it might start a fight " . I simply stated " if it runs and drives it goes in the " driveway " " .


Rick
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:29 AM   #84
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You could solve the parking situation the way I did " although it might start a fight " . I simply stated " if it runs and drives it goes in the " driveway " " .


Rick

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Old 08-31-2011, 04:18 PM   #85
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Park the vehicle in the garage positioned exactly where you want it. Then suspend a tennis ball on a string so that it just touches the windshield at a convenient point - bottom center, or at rear view mirror mount, etc. Next time just pull in and drive up to tennis ball. Presto - instant position.
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Old 08-31-2011, 06:04 PM   #86
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Park the vehicle in the garage positioned exactly where you want it. Then suspend a tennis ball on a string so that it just touches the windshield at a convenient point - bottom center, or at rear view mirror mount, etc. Next time just pull in and drive up to tennis ball. Presto - instant position.
I did this for SWMBFAO with a twist. I put an eye bolt in the ceiling and tied the tennis ball to a piece of string with a washer on the UP side of the eye bolt. Then I closed the garage door and tied the other end of the string to another eyebolt on the top of the garage door (with the ball pulled ALL THE WAY UP). Now when the garage door is OPEN the ball can help place the car. When the door is CLOSED the ball is out of the way.

The inspiration was getting tired of running into the tennis ball with the garage door down and no car in the garage.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:59 PM   #87
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I did this for SWMBFAO with a twist. I put an eye bolt in the ceiling and tied the tennis ball to a piece of string with a washer on the UP side of the eye bolt. Then I closed the garage door and tied the other end of the string to another eyebolt on the top of the garage door (with the ball pulled ALL THE WAY UP). Now when the garage door is OPEN the ball can help place the car. When the door is CLOSED the ball is out of the way.

The inspiration was getting tired of running into the tennis ball with the garage door down and no car in the garage.
I need a picture of this! What I'm thinking of as how you did this would require 16' of string for an 8' door.

Help!

FD
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:50 PM   #88
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I need a picture of this! What I'm thinking of as how you did this would require 16' of string for an 8' door.

Help!

FD
No pics. ...and I took i down a few years ago. We had too much junk stacked in the garage to get the cars in there. I'm slowly getting to the point where I can get a single vehicle back in there (two car garage).

Mike's steps to a mobile car stop....
1. Get a tennis ball.
2. Put a nail or piece of metal through the tennis ball and make a loop on one end.
3. Figure out where you want the tennis ball to contact the vehicle windshield
4. Place a eye bolt above the point on the ceiling (affix appropriately).
5. Run a piece of string through the eye down to the tennis ball and tie it to the tennis ball.
6. Tie a washer to the string so that the tennis ball hangs at the right place.
7. Affix a second eye bolt to the top of the garage door.
8. Close the garage door
9. Tie the string to the washer (again)
10. Run the string through the eye bolt installed in step 7 and pull the tennis ball up until it almost touches the eye bolt in step 4. Tie the string off.
11. Open the garage door and watch the ball come down.
12. Close the garage door and watch the ball go up.
13. Have a beer and repeat steps 11 and 12 until you feel good (you might even pull the car in (but not with the beer close by)).
14. Show the new mobile tennis ball to SWMBFAO and watch her roll her eyes at you (but she will use it).

I hope this helps...

...and YES it will take 16-30 feet of string. Basically the distance from the windshield to the garage door.
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:55 PM   #89
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Thank you. Makes two us!




Thanks! It is...both 06s - a 5.7 Hemi and a Cummins. I see you're a Dodge man? Calibers?





Nice. Yeah i have a Caliber (my sig is an old photoshop pic i made) My parents have a new caravan too. We've been Chrysler vehicles since 1990. I'm looking at a new charger now actually.


Like your progress so far.

I'm thinking about re-building my garage soon. And doing a couple (or more) dump runs. What better way to test out the new van?
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:58 AM   #90
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I ended getting a laser-guided garage parking aid. I think it was $15 on Amazon. There are a ton of them online for diff prices. Works perfectly, and c'mon.. it's a LASER in your garage!


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Old 09-01-2011, 05:15 PM   #91
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Your garage project is coming along nicely! What kind of work do you plan on doing at the work bench? you mentioned writing, I'm assuming that would be at the center dropped section?

I got in the habit of topping my work shop benches with Formica kitchen counter top. even new it's not expensive, but you can also watch C-List for a remodel cast off. It is smooth, reasonably flat, normally has a "drip edge" bump in the front that helps keep things from rolling off too much, and it has a back splash to keep you from losing thing down the back side of the bench.

Ladder storage was mentioned, I second hanging the extension ladder near the ceiling next to a wall. if the wall space is at a premium, you can also do it near the center (Mine is, along with several fascia boards I permanently mounted my Xmas lights to and all I have to do is hang 5 of these boards and plug them in together...)

I think the 6 ft folder might hang on the end of the left most shelf where the wall sticks out; handy, but out of the way and you lose no wall space.
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Old 09-01-2011, 05:56 PM   #92
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Your garage project is coming along nicely! What kind of work do you plan on doing at the work bench? you mentioned writing, I'm assuming that would be at the center dropped section?

I got in the habit of topping my work shop benches with Formica kitchen counter top. even new it's not expensive, but you can also watch C-List for a remodel cast off. It is smooth, reasonably flat, normally has a "drip edge" bump in the front that helps keep things from rolling off too much, and it has a back splash to keep you from losing thing down the back side of the bench.

Ladder storage was mentioned, I second hanging the extension ladder near the ceiling next to a wall. if the wall space is at a premium, you can also do it near the center (Mine is, along with several fascia boards I permanently mounted my Xmas lights to and all I have to do is hang 5 of these boards and plug them in together...)

I think the 6 ft folder might hang on the end of the left most shelf where the wall sticks out; handy, but out of the way and you lose no wall space.

Thank you.

This is a garage workbench so it'll see home projects, truck stuff and random anything. I'm definitely not a writer. I mentioned "writing utensils" because I normally have a pencil, Sharpie, pen, scissors, tape and those kind of desk type tools as my first reach.


The top of my workbench is going to be layered to ~1.5" with the top being birch like I have in my work work room. I was watching a show late night and got the bright idea to do a dark stain on my wood tops. So I might do a test spot and see how it comes out. The bench frame I'll paint to the dark green to match the rest. With my colors I think I'll have an Irish pub soon
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:10 AM   #93
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I think I've decided that I want sheet metal drawers on my bench here. Looks like I'll be building a table top press brake. You know, this garage thing is a scam. I'm creating my own expenses. Buy the time I'm done with this bench I'll have probably close $300 into it. (I'm at $113 now). What's allowed me to splurge a little bit is in the past month or so our income has seen a few big promotions and bonuses which are taking care if that big HVAC cost that happened at the beginning of this build and we'll be taking off both vehicle payments early. Talk about blessings!

I might go grab some angle iron today. I'm thinking a 4'er on my small bench.
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:49 PM   #94
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Well how sad is that? My metal supply place shut down. I pull in and there was 'we're closing' sign on the door. I go inside and chat with a guy there. He said they were in the process of liquidating and then they'd be shutting doors. I asked if they were liquidating to anyone that walked in the front door? The guy chuckled and said they sold to a liquidation company.

Now I gotta find another supply shop. That sucks, I liked that place. No angle iron for me today. Instead I got to burn diesel, fight lunchtime-of-a-holiday-weekend-plus construction traffic
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:43 PM   #95
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I think I've decided that I want sheet metal drawers on my bench here. Looks like I'll be building a table top press brake. You know, this garage thing is a scam. I'm creating my own expenses. Buy the time I'm done with this bench I'll have probably close $300 into it. (I'm at $113 now). What's allowed me to splurge a little bit is in the past month or so our income has seen a few big promotions and bonuses which are taking care if that big HVAC cost that happened at the beginning of this build and we'll be taking off both vehicle payments early. Talk about blessings!

I might go grab some angle iron today. I'm thinking a 4'er on my small bench.
A scam it is. I originally just wanted to put up paper-backed insulation. Next thing I know I join GJ and go crazy.

You are very innovative seem to have a wide range of talents! I have yet to get into the metalworking/welding thing but I'm trying to avoid it as long as possible for my budget's sake. But I guess some would say why delay the inevitable? That workbench is also looking good. Will be one of the next project I attempt in the 1950s Craftsman Garage.

Can't believe I haven't commented in this thread before. Keep up your great work!
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Old 09-02-2011, 04:47 PM   #96
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Well how sad is that? My metal supply place shut down. I pull in and there was 'we're closing' sign on the door. I go inside and chat with a guy there. He said they were in the process of liquidating and then they'd be shutting doors. I asked if they were liquidating to anyone that walked in the front door? The guy chuckled and said they sold to a liquidation company.

Now I gotta find another supply shop. That sucks, I liked that place. No angle iron for me today. Instead I got to burn diesel, fight lunchtime-of-a-holiday-weekend-plus construction traffic

Well if it makes ya feel any better I swung by one of my steel suppliers a little after 3PM today to grab a small piece of steel rod ( their hours are M-F 8-5 ) . Sign on the front door says we bolted at 3 today see ya on the 6th . Now I have to wait till tuesday for that project.


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Old 09-03-2011, 09:25 AM   #97
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A scam it is. I originally just wanted to put up paper-backed insulation. Next thing I know I join GJ and go crazy.

You are very innovative seem to have a wide range of talents! I have yet to get into the metalworking/welding thing but I'm trying to avoid it as long as possible for my budget's sake. But I guess some would say why delay the inevitable? That workbench is also looking good. Will be one of the next project I attempt in the 1950s Craftsman Garage.

Can't believe I haven't commented in this thread before. Keep up your great work!

I appreciate the kind words. Yup, it all started with I just followed a link from another site and then I found another expense.

I completely abuse the DIY thing. I look at it as investing in my education. If I never jump in and try it I won't ever learn or get skilled at it. I want to say I'm a jack of all trades but I don't because the follow up is of 'master of none'. I refuse to believe a person can be so varied in skill that they can master none. It just doesn't work that way in the body's cognitive and physical skills department. I'd like to b an example of that.

Metalworking is another money pit (you should try it). I'm not even in deep and I have a handful of things I need to get done (you probably do too. You should try it). All in good time (Now. You should try it). Oh, I also want a third welder = $$$$ (you should get one)


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Well if it makes ya feel any better I swung by one of my steel suppliers a little after 3PM today to grab a small piece of steel rod ( their hours are M-F 8-5 ) . Sign on the front door says we bolted at 3 today see ya on the 6th . Now I have to wait till tuesday for that project.


Rick

Dang Rick, I figured that would be me. It would have been nice if that were the case, closed early instead of closed for good. No. It does not make me feel better! What are you working on?
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:02 PM   #98
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Howdy Girl actually I only needed a 6" piece of 2" round bar to make a die holder for my lathe ( in order to finish another project ) funny how one little project can morph into multiple projects aint it . Your place is looking great by the way . I agree we need to get RL into some metalwork . I do have several metal suppliers here in town but the one I went to is pretty good about having small drops available " cheap " the other main yard I go to prefers to sell full 20+ foot sticks .

Rick

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Old 09-03-2011, 05:44 PM   #99
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Howdy Girl actually I only needed a 6" piece of 2" round bar to make a die holder for my lathe ( in order to finish another project ) funny how one little project can morph into multiple projects aint it . Your place is looking great by the way . I agree we need to get RL into some metalwork . I do have several metal suppliers here in town but the one I went to is pretty good about having small drops available " cheap " the other main yard I go to prefers to sell full 20+ foot sticks .

Rick
Definitely the way projects grow branches. My DH said he sees right through it. He knows what I'm up to

I'm kind of nervous about going to a different supplier (both I'm looking at are bigger). Like yours mine was a smaller outfit and I could dig through their scrap bins. Guess I'll have to turn on the girl charm and get a little gussied up before heading over so I can make a good first impression
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:39 PM   #100
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My bigger supplier does have a drop rack in the back that I have gotten some good deals off of . I usualy go to the smaller outfit for small pieces or odball items such as the 4' of 1/2" brass hex I picked up over there a few weeks ago . The larger supplier would not have had a drop like that just laying around.


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Old 09-04-2011, 05:50 PM   #101
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Worked a little yesterday and today just to do stuff. I wanted leg levelers on my table so I decided to make them. I know, spent more on time than it would cost to buy them, but sometimes you got to practice fabbing and building if you ever want to get good at fabbing and building. I enjoy the work so I do it.

The leg levelers are just a bolt screwed into a nut welded to a modified washer. Pretty simple. I have several bins and buckets full of nuts, bolts and washers that I save 'just in case I can use them for something later'. Well this is one of those somethings later. Use them or get hoarded out.

Anyway, pics...

Pieces, put together, and nut welded

This how I set up to weld the nut. Clamping small items to ground is easy this way. Look! I got the small vise mounted.



Hole drilled and leveler in place. Hammer it in and it's good to go.


I only got three out of eight done. I ran out of fluxcore wire. I can either go buy a new 2lb roll or try to transfer some fro the big 10lb roll I've been hoarding (that my machine won't run). The projects grows more arms. Only went with two barbs instead of three or four. Eh, if they fall out I'll redo it.


For goofs I built a straight line jig for my circular saw. Got the line for the motor side. The blade side jig was done in anticipation for cutting sheet metal. Since I have one hand to use the circular saw it must apply pressure down, forward and laterally against the jig while trying to keep the blade straight and flat. With both jigs in place I only have to focus on forward and down. It's just a little safer and makes my cuts straighter. I'll have a bottom piece to serve as the blade track. This will let me cut full sheets of material on the floor instead of doing a balancing act on tables or saw horses and such.

This was put together with leftovers from the wall shelves so, no cost here.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg LL2.jpg (76.4 KB, 342 views)
File Type: jpg LL3.jpg (54.1 KB, 335 views)
File Type: jpg ccjig.jpg (54.4 KB, 306 views)
File Type: jpg ccjig2.jpg (67.3 KB, 283 views)
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:45 PM   #102
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Worked a little yesterday and today just to do stuff. I wanted leg levelers on my table so I decided to make them. I know, spent more on time than it would cost to buy them, but sometimes you got to practice fabbing and building if you ever want to get good at fabbing and building. I enjoy the work so I do it.

The leg levelers are just a bolt screwed into a nut welded to a modified washer. Pretty simple. I have several bins and buckets full of nuts, bolts and washers that I save 'just in case I can use them for something later'. Well this is one of those somethings later. Use them or get hoarded out.
Good for you...

Those look like the "T-Nuts" that you can buy commercially.

I made some "leg levelers" years ago. Took some short pieces of 1/4" plate, drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 in the center and added two 1/4" holes on the outside. Then I could just bolt them into those pesky 4X4 legs....


Quote:
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This how I set up to weld the nut. Clamping small items to ground is easy this way.
Good idea. I wouldn't have thought of that one...


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For goofs I built a straight line jig for my circular saw. Got the line for the motor side. The blade side jig was done in anticipation for cutting sheet metal. Since I have one hand to use the circular saw it must apply pressure down, forward and laterally against the jig while trying to keep the blade straight and flat. With both jigs in place I only have to focus on forward and down. It's just a little safer and makes my cuts straighter. I'll have a bottom piece to serve as the blade track. This will let me cut full sheets of material on the floor instead of doing a balancing act on tables or saw horses and such.

This was put together with leftovers from the wall shelves so, no cost here.
A minor suggestion.... Either make a guard to run on the cutting edge of the jig (to keep the saw from cutting the jig) OR put a thin board on the off-side to keep the saw from cutting your jig. I've found that makes working full sheets easier. ...oh, and I do my plywood cutting on sawhorses... Just put three 2X4s UNDER the plywood. Yeah, the boards may get cut but I don't have to walk around on my knees on the ground.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:12 AM   #103
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That's a pretty solid idea for the leg levelers you did. I've got some 1.5" and 2" wide 3/16" strap that I'll tap if these Tnuts don't cut it. KISS

This is the first time I welded standing up at a table. Since I don't have a welding table I'm always on the floor. I figured out really quick why I wear the nomex suit when I weld. Also why its important to wear pants with pull on work boots and not shorts
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:35 PM   #104
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theres no safety issue with moving sensors this just allows you to pull in just far enough to clear the bumper of car and keeps you from closing door on car.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:07 PM   #105
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theres no safety issue with moving sensors this just allows you to pull in just far enough to clear the bumper of car and keeps you from closing door on car.
The safety issue I can think of would be that a small child or pet might not block the beem and be hurt by the door closing on them.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:09 PM   #106
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No kids and the dog is taller than the car bumper
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:25 AM   #107
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Pretty cool idea with the washers! I can think of lots of uses for that.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:28 AM   #108
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Your not down in the fire area near Bastrop are you? I kinda remember thinking you are in that area? Hope all is good there. This morning they have reported ove 1100 homes lost so far.
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:01 PM   #109
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Your not down in the fire area near Bastrop are you? I kinda remember thinking you are in that area? Hope all is good there. This morning they have reported ove 1100 homes lost so far.

We're good. I'm up in DFW so we're getting residual haze and smoke from the fires east of us. Yesterday I had to stop and remind myself, I was mumbling about the haze and having to close the windows I opened up on the house to enjoy the cooler air. Sadly, there are people right now losing their homes and I'm fixin' to gripe about a little haze.

Anyway, our friends down around Austin/Bastrop and San Antonio/Boerne are all on alert. Fires are close.







Metal is here. Somebody get to work.

$58 Drawer slides (in shipping)
$208.34 16ga sheet metal and angle iron (for press brake)


Going to get the brake setup on my bench before I draw out my drawers. Then it'll be cutting for a while. Now though I need to eat some lunch.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:33 PM   #110
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16 ga.! Those will be some heavy duty drawers!
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:43 PM   #111
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16 ga.! Those will be some heavy duty drawers!

Yessir! If they fall apart it'll be from my workmanship.




Got the base of the press brake bolted on. Took a little bit to drill the pilot then work up to 1/2". Kind of disappointed with them drill bits. They need a sharpen. I used the set I recently acquired in that lot. I ended up finishing it out with my cheapo black and decker set. Called it a day and cleaned up.


Clamped up


Used 1/16" bit to get the edge space

Closer look


Bolted up, ready for the hinge and third piece
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File Type: jpg Press Brake4.jpg (55.6 KB, 353 views)
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:59 PM   #112
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Where you at grab the laptop and get back out here we gots work to do . Looking good should be a nice brake when you get done with it .


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Old 09-09-2011, 08:09 PM   #113
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Where you at grab the laptop and get back out here we gots work to do . Looking good should be a nice brake when you get done with it .


Rick

Rick, let's go. I need some extra hands today.





Didn't work too long but started on the hinge. Arm, neck and shoulder got tired and I'm pacing myself. I came to realize building a press brake "real quick" isn't going to happen. They're not one of those real quick projects. It's simple, but still requires time. Anyway, would go much quicker if I had a chop saw, but I don't so cutting with a hack saw & recip saw with bimetal blade. F-O-R-E-V-E-R.

Decided to build the hinge with a 5/8" bolt and pipe. Overkill is fine for supporting the 20lbs piece of angle iron over my toes. Pipe is just a 10" piece of black iron pipe from Lowes. I think I went with1/2".



Had to smooth out the seam weld inside the pipe for the bolt pin to slide in. Used a dremel for that.



Quit after this on was done. Tired of cutting. Will do the same for the second bolt pin then next order is to notch both pieces of angle iron to place the pin on the pivot point. Then weld it up.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:37 PM   #114
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...
Had to smooth out the seam weld inside the pipe for the bolt pin to slide in. Used a dremel for that.

...
How about speeding up the "smoothing out" process of the inside of these pipes by putting them in a vice and reaming it with a drill bit? You can finish the process with the dremel.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:45 PM   #115
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How about speeding up the "smoothing out" process of the inside of these pipes by putting them in a vice and reaming it with a drill bit? You can finish the process with the dremel.

That's a pretty good idea. That would speed up the process to do the entire piece at once. I'm only able to reach the dremel in after each piece is cut to size.

I'm gonna owe you pizza and beer. I like you're thinking on this stuff.



What's your take on notching out the angle iron corners to set the tube??
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:54 PM   #116
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Well first your gonna need a big compressor . Then your gonna need an air pneumatic cut off tool and of course some cut off discs . Course you could just get a plasma cutter but they are expensive . Ok we will do it the cheap way 4" angle grinder with a cuttoff wheel .Then of course unless your really good a file to clean up the cuts .


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Old 09-09-2011, 10:02 PM   #117
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That's a pretty good idea. That would speed up the process to do the entire piece at once. I'm only able to reach the dremel in after each piece is cut to size.

I'm gonna owe you pizza and beer. I like you're thinking on this stuff.



What's your take on notching out the angle iron corners to set the tube??
1. Paint the metal. Dark blue or black works well.
2. Mark the edges of your notch with a scribe (if you don't have one use an awl or a nail). Now you should be able to see it well.
3. Since you don't have a chop saw it will be harder. If you have a hand grinder with a cutoff wheel you can put it in the vice and use it. Cut the shallowest cut (I'll call it the "depth"). If you're using a cutting blade I'd then cut the "length". Otherwise I'd take it over to the bench grinder and simply grind the metal out. Use the side of the grinder stone to make sure you get a fairly smooth notch.
3b. If you don't have the grinder and cutoff wheel I'd use a sawzall to get close and then grind it down on the bench grinder.
3c. If all else fails drill a series of holes in the waste area of the notch and then cut it out with a sawzall or hacksaw. Then clean it up with a bench grinder or a hand grinder.

NOTE: Step 3 might not be the safest method and you might want to put the metal in the vice and cut it with the grinder and cutoff wheel.


The most important thing when doing this type of work is to think it out before you start. Try to be safe. If you don't feel safe doing a step figure out a better way to do it.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:28 PM   #118
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Thanks guys. Here's what the end view looks like



hehe Rick, a cutting disc is what I was thinking too. I was gonna use the EZ lock disc on my dremel. Should be able to just run the disc up to the mark, then do the same on the other edge.

Guess yall might have figured my dremel is my angle grinder. Since I'm one handed an angle grinder is a bit of a stretch for me to work safely and for long periods, unless it's modified (which I haven't gotten the patience and umph to do).

I can't forget to notch the top piece too.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:32 PM   #119
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

I am not sure how many guys on here realise you are doing all of this with one hand . Honestly with what you get done I forget from time to time that your doing these things " single handedly " litteraly . I think the dremel will do the job but your gonna go through quite a few discs on it .

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Old 09-09-2011, 10:47 PM   #120
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

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I am not sure how many guys on here realise you are doing all of this with one hand . Honestly with what you get done I forget from time to time that your doing these things " single handedly " litteraly . I think the dremel will do the job but your gonna go through quite a few discs on it .

Rick
Yeah, I kind of forgot about that too. That view kind of looks like you need to trim PART of the metal out. I'd say hit it with a bench grinder or an angle grinder but with your limitations....

You need to look into a cross vice (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...ise-32997.html) and mount it to a stationary tool (like a combination belt & disk sander??? (http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...der-93981.html)). That would let you set the metal where you want it and then you could get some fairly precise removal of the materials.

How it would work. The cross vice would be solid mounted (bolted so you could move it further away or to a different tool) on the table in front of the tool or on the plate of the tool. Then you place the metal in the vice and you can turn the handles at the X and Y positions to move the metal back and forth and in and out. That would let you control how much material is removed and for how much length.

NOTE: I own the HF cross vice listed and it's got a LOT of play in it so it doesn't give really accurate distances. It works okay on my drill press to get the drill bit lined up with the rough center of stock.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:48 PM   #121
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My trademark is a snail's pace lol

The EZ lock cutting discs actually last a reasonable workload. I first used them cutting a couple pieces of 1/4"x4" C-channel on another project. They definitely hold up better than those thin abrasive discs that come with the starter dremel kit.

These ones



I've been using and abusing my dremel and my craftman rotary and knock on wood they've survived. I think they key is to stay patient and let the blade/disc/drum do the work instead of cranking down pressure. Keeps the dremel from overheating or dying a quick overtorqued death.
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:03 PM   #122
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My trademark is a snail's pace lol

The EZ lock cutting discs actually last a reasonable workload. I first used them cutting a couple pieces of 1/4"x4" C-channel on another project. They definitely hold up better than those thin abrasive discs that come with the starter dremel kit.

These ones



I've been using and abusing my dremel and my craftman rotary and knock on wood they've survived. I think they key is to stay patient and let the blade/disc/drum do the work instead of cranking down pressure. Keeps the dremel from overheating or dying a quick overtorqued death.
Hmmm... I might have to get some of those... I don't use the dremel too much because the little metal disks either break or wear out too quick.

thanks.
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:13 PM   #123
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I think they're worth having in the dremel box. I grabbed the little $12 pack with about 5 discs and the spindle.

The discs are a little more tolerant when they get off perpendicular, they stay straighter and don't flex near as much. I don't know how many of those thin abrasive discs I shattered. Knock on wood, I haven't broken one of these yet.

Supposedly there is an EZ ock grinding disc that I'd love to use with the 90* attachment. I'd essentially have a mini right angle grinder. But that 90* gets terrible reviews so I have not purchased it.
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:55 PM   #124
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GirlInAGarage,

That whole last page, I have to be honest, I had no idea what the heck you were doing

I had to look up what a 'press brake' was...and then everything clicked...'Oh, a metal bender thing!'

That is quite an ambitious and cool project. And of course now I want to build one too

Nice work
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:19 AM   #125
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

You know I considered building a brake until I ran across this one (http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...ake-39103.html). I almost immediately wanted a larger one but "made do" with the one I had bought.

Have you considered just purchasing one?
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:54 AM   #126
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GirlInAGarage,

That whole last page, I have to be honest, I had no idea what the heck you were doing

I had to look up what a 'press brake' was...and then everything clicked...'Oh, a metal bender thing!'

That is quite an ambitious and cool project. And of course now I want to build one too

Nice work


Thanks.



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You know I considered building a brake until I ran across this one (http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...ake-39103.html). I almost immediately wanted a larger one but "made do" with the one I had bought.

Have you considered just purchasing one?

You know I did think about buying one but I was on the fence a little bit because of the size of my pieces and them being 16ga. My bends on the drawers are between 20-26" wide. I was kind of at the cutoff point where I needed to jump up to the 36" or 48" press brake (depending what width was available). After reading some of the luke warm reviews and looking at the price I decided to go ahead and build a unit that should do the job. I've got some time and $78 in it now and I'm really enjoying working on this stuff. I've never built bigger metal projects on my own so this is new territory for me. It's a simple tool but still needs attention to detail. I realized that yesterday as I was looking at the first bolt and pieces of pipe that will become the hinge. I kept thinking, all this work for four little pieces. I'm eating up the challenge. Last night I didn't sleep a wink. All that kept running through my mind was how I'll notch the pieces today


Besides if it just doesn't work I got some great legs for a welding table
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:06 AM   #127
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Been following this since your first post & really impressed with one bite at a time & steady progress you are making.

Ok, I'm going to bite on the hook from a few posts back -" titanium plate & screws" you have me intrigued...?
If it is not something you care to talk about, I will understand.
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:23 AM   #128
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Been following this since your first post & really impressed with one bite at a time & steady progress you are making.

Ok, I'm going to bite on the hook from a few posts back -" titanium plate & screws" you have me intrigued...?
If it is not something you care to talk about, I will understand.

Thanks 51rider. The plate and screws are hardware from a cervical fusion. I broke c5-c7 among other injuries from a single vehicle rollover when I was in college. I've got a handful of interesting permanent affects (when the vertebral horns were pulverized) but the worst was losing use of my left arm. Nerves weren't severed as far as they could tell, but the trauma was enough to render them done. I had to learn to walk again too. Talk about tough. Learning the first time around is easier, plus you don't know any curse words at that young age


I'm still waiting for the bionic nerve stuff to come out. I just need a new wire run from my spinal cord out to my arm. Should be pretty simple right?
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Old 09-10-2011, 09:06 AM   #129
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Thank you for sharing-it does make your achievements even more impressive although from other comments I don't believe you are one to sit around feeling sorry for yourself.

As I said earlier I admire your achivements, which If I am honest, put others with full use of all limbs to shame.

Again, a few posts back you mentioned marathon running, I think. Is this for fun, fund raising or should I look foryou in the Paralympics here in London next year?
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:24 AM   #130
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hehe no big contests for me. I run to stay in shape. I've been an athlete all my life so I try to stay active. I got good genes, thanks goodness, and I believe that helped me through the tough times.





Hinge pins and pipe are done. Going to measure and start notching angle iron...after I eat something.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:00 PM   #131
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When you get your brake done you are going to have fun with it. I just started sheet metal work I started making a few socket boxes then bent up some open top boxes for storing cut off wheels and sanding discs. It is a lot of fun. Btw do you make the wrench rolls and wraps you are using as your avatar they are nice.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:11 PM   #132
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When you get your brake done you are going to have fun with it. I just started sheet metal work I started making a few socket boxes then bent up some open top boxes for storing cut off wheels and sanding discs. It is a lot of fun. Btw do you make the wrench rolls and wraps you are using as your avatar they are nice.


You just said what I had been thinking about socket boxes. I'm hoping to add a few sheet metal items to my repertoire. Today I worked a little more on my press brake, a bit, not too much on this special day. These cuts take forever without a band, chop or metal saw. Anyway, the recip saw with metal blades is doing better than the cutting wheels. I'll cut the rest in the next couple days then weld on the hinges. I'm excited

Yup, I put together that wrench roll this evening It's for a metric set I'm sending out. Putting together an SAE wrap to go with.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:46 PM   #133
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Have you posted your leather work any where else I'd like to see more. The skills of the members on G/J just amazes me. Nice job on your renovation/ reorganization.
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Old 09-12-2011, 12:02 AM   #134
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As usual it isn't square or level - my trademarks.
now thats funny!
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:17 AM   #135
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Have you posted your leather work any where else I'd like to see more. The skills of the members on G/J just amazes me. Nice job on your renovation/ reorganization.

Thank you. I'm actually in leather work; got a business and website. But here on the forum I'm just GirlnAGarage



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now thats funny!

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Old 09-13-2011, 09:39 AM   #136
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Haven't really worked on the press brake in the last day or two. Took it easy on Sunday and yesterday I sort of killed the day digging through a new CL acquired tool box then had a soccer game at night. My drawer slides were sitting on the door step when I got home. The first thing I think is "Oh no, I need to hurry up and get to work!".

Drawer slides $58 This was a heavy little package.


I have crap all over the garage


Went to get this


Came back with all this

I'm getting all this organized and cleaned up so I can get this stuff out of here! I need to focus on my drawers and playing with tools doesn't allow me to do that.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:54 AM   #137
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I need to focus on my drawers and playing with tools doesn't allow me to do that.
I feel like we all have the same issue. I'd almost go as far as calling this forum a focus group, except things never seems to get better
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:58 PM   #138
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Hey now...you can't just drop the hint on the leatherwork and leave us hanging!

So was that your holster that I guessed as Galco?
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:10 PM   #139
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I'm getting all this organized and cleaned up so I can get this stuff out of here! I need to focus on my drawers and playing with tools doesn't allow me to do that. [/QUOTE]

Yeah, get goin' on that brake. As a life long sheet metal man I'm curious to see how it turns out. 16 ga. is a workout. A few years ago I picked up a Milwaukee Porta-Band saw for $140. I makes cutting heavy metal a breeze. Just a thought.
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:13 PM   #140
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Paul a portaband would be quite a handfull with the use of only one hand . Now a nice little 4X6 unit from harbor freight on the other hand cound be used single handedly pretty easy .

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Old 09-13-2011, 01:59 PM   #141
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I feel like we all have the same issue. I'd almost go as far as calling this forum a focus group, except things never seems to get better

You hit the nail on the head. I didn't have a problem, well this problem (I have others) until I came to GJ.


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Hey now...you can't just drop the hint on the leatherwork and leave us hanging!

So was that your holster that I guessed as Galco?

Yeah Mike, you totally insulted me. Mom always said if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all. JK Yeah, that was my work.


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Yeah, get goin' on that brake. As a life long sheet metal man I'm curious to see how it turns out. 16 ga. is a workout. A few years ago I picked up a Milwaukee Porta-Band saw for $140. I makes cutting heavy metal a breeze. Just a thought.
Oh I heard about the workout so I'm interested to see how much I can get done. If I'm really fighting it, I might score a fold line to give me a cheat. Luckily my garage is wide enough I can put a real long handle on it


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Paul a portaband would be quite a handfull with the use of only one hand . Now a nice little 4X6 unit from harbor freight on the other hand cound be used single handedly pretty easy .

Rick

Rick, I looked a while back at horizontal band saws. They look pretty handy and something I could use. It's an item I need when I need it, but I never have a time where I put extra money towards it when nothing is going on. The project is already in full swing taking up resources when I remember I need one. D-oh!



Ok, off to the PO. The better get something done.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:02 PM   #142
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Sorry Garage Girl, I forgot you have to do everything one-armed when I suggested the Porta-band.

One thing to keep in mind. You need the bending part of that brake REALLY beefy. The 16 ga. is going to want to "roll" in the middle so maybe some reinforcement there, especially for the clamping part.

The scribing idea might just be the ticket. You'll get a nice sharp bend. We used to do that on 1/8th" aluminun wall panels. Came out nice. Of course we had a CNC router table to "scribe" them for us. But hey, no reason we can't do what a 100K machine can do. Just takes longer.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:21 PM   #143
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Sorry Garage Girl, I forgot you have to do everything one-armed when I suggested the Porta-band.

One thing to keep in mind. You need the bending part of that brake REALLY beefy. The 16 ga. is going to want to "roll" in the middle so maybe some reinforcement there, especially for the clamping part.

The scribing idea might just be the ticket. You'll get a nice sharp bend. We used to do that on 1/8th" aluminun wall panels. Came out nice. Of course we had a CNC router table to "scribe" them for us. But hey, no reason we can't do what a 100K machine can do. Just takes longer.

No worries For my brake I'm using a 4' long 3x3x1/4" angle. And my pieces I need to bend are between 20 and 26" long. I was thinking if I started having trouble with the sheet metal moving on me I'd drill another hole somewhere in that length and add another bolt (of course placing it so I can fit the width of my pieces in between the bolts).

I'm interested to see how this goes. Never worked with sheet metal.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:30 PM   #144
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Girl take a look at the harbor freight brake and you will see the bracing that Paul is talking about on the upper part of the brake which stiffens it up .

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Old 09-13-2011, 10:44 PM   #145
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Girl take a look at the harbor freight brake and you will see the bracing that Paul is talking about on the upper part of the brake which stiffens it up .

Rick

Ahh ok, I see. If I notice any problems I'll brace up that top piece.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:20 PM   #146
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Yeah Mike, you totally insulted me. Mom always said if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all. JK Yeah, that was my work.
Hmm, must have missed the picture. So what stays in the holster?
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:32 PM   #147
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Ahh ok, I see. If I notice any problems I'll brace up that top piece.
If the brace you are talking about is that flattish inverted "V" with a post, make it so the post is a bolt, (About 1/2" coarse thread) and get an all thread coupler (Looks like a long nut about 2-3" long...) and then you can add or remove tension from the brace. A jam nut is optional, but probably a good idea.

Weld the bolt head to the apex of the "V" and rest the long nut (Start with it almost fully engaged to the bolt) on the Angle.

You can take a 3/8" fine thread bold and cut the head off leaving just 1/4" or less and use that as a "Post" threaded into the angle to keep the long 1/2" nut from wandering on the angle. Just cut off and file smooth any remnants of the 3/8 bolt shank.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:03 AM   #148
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Hmm, must have missed the picture. So what stays in the holster?
Built for an M&P 9c


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If the brace you are talking about is that flattish inverted "V" with a post, make it so the post is a bolt, (About 1/2" coarse thread) and get an all thread coupler (Looks like a long nut about 2-3" long...) and then you can add or remove tension from the brace. A jam nut is optional, but probably a good idea.

Weld the bolt head to the apex of the "V" and rest the long nut (Start with it almost fully engaged to the bolt) on the Angle.

You can take a 3/8" fine thread bold and cut the head off leaving just 1/4" or less and use that as a "Post" threaded into the angle to keep the long 1/2" nut from wandering on the angle. Just cut off and file smooth any remnants of the 3/8 bolt shank.

Ok, I will get that together. I appreciate the details on that. I didn't think of the support having adjustable tension (though I saw the bolt in the pics I didn't put two and two together ).
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:29 PM   #149
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Hey now...you can't just drop the hint on the leatherwork and leave us hanging!

So was that your holster that I guessed as Galco?
Quoting oneself is weird but...you still haven't addressed the first part!

I see you're busy with the garage, but I'm surely not alone in my interest in good holsters. If applicable, and if you want to, show us what you do in leatherwork.

BTW: The saw guide is a great idea.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:33 PM   #150
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Quoting oneself is weird but...you still haven't addressed the first part!

I see you're busy with the garage, but I'm surely not alone in my interest in good holsters. If applicable, and if you want to, show us what you do in leatherwork.

BTW: The saw guide is a great idea.

I'm being evasive intentionally. As I said to c/o, I do leather work, I have a site, I have a business. But on GJ I would like to just remain GirlnAGarage
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:30 PM   #151
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I'm being evasive intentionally. As I said to c/o, I do leather work, I have a site, I have a business. But on GJ I would like to just remain GirlnAGarage
So why not PM him the link to you're site and see what he has to say? I'll bet it won't be anything bad. That wrench roll (?) in your avatar is kind of different.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:53 PM   #152
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Wooo! Got the sucker cut up and welded. Took a few days working a couple hours, little by little. But, it's about ready to go. The recip saw and metal blades worked well. The thing that slowed me down was me. I'd get tired holding/working the saw so I had to pause a lot.




Getting the hinges on was a trick. It involved spacers, washers, screwdrivers, hammers, luck... but I got my ugly welds on there and was able to keep things mostly straight.



Missed it by just a little bit. Gap on the left is .020"ish and the right is .070"is at 90*




Need to notch a little more off the top piece. I didn't account for my welds. Then it's in service. Well, after I cut my drawers.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:01 PM   #153
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Looking good almost ready to fold some sheet there .



Rick
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:42 AM   #154
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Now I see hiow that goes together. I was having a brain fart and couldn't understand what you was doing. Looks good. Guess I need to make one myself now. Thanks. Love the rehab you are doing in the garage.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:56 AM   #155
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Here's the set



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Looking good almost ready to fold some sheet there .



Rick

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Now I see hiow that goes together. I was having a brain fart and couldn't understand what you was doing. Looks good. Guess I need to make one myself now. Thanks. Love the rehab you are doing in the garage.


haha yeah, this one is fairly simple. Ive seen more complicated designs.
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:53 PM   #156
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Nice work!!!
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:38 PM   #157
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Curse you girl now I want a set of wrenches in there own wrench roll don't need em but damm now I want em. They look sharp. Nice job on the brake looks good.
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:40 PM   #158
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Curse you girl now I want a set of wrenches in there own wrench roll don't need em but damm now I want em. They look sharp. Nice job on the brake looks good.

Just giving back to GJ as GJ has given to me

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Old 09-15-2011, 02:16 PM   #159
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:09 PM   #160
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Press Brake is operational. Excellent.



I know the 16ga will be a heckuva lot more work but this old blade was all I had to stick in there. It'll go a hair past 90* but if I wanna do a little more I'll need to bevel the lead edge on the top piece. Not necessary but something I can do later down the road. I already want to find a few ways to mod this to make things quick and easy but that'll come with time. For now, looks like it'll work as needed.
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:54 PM   #161
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Looking good Girl.

To have leverage for the wider stuff, you will need some handles. about 30" (How much room from the angle to the floor?) of 3/4 inch pipe on each end at the hinges, so they don't interfere with the materials being bent should do it. On heavy bends you often need two people, one on each side. Otherwise the angle can actually flex and give an uneven bend to the metal.
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:14 PM   #162
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Good catch. I still need to to put the big handle on there. The table is about 36" tall. I wasn't sure which leg of the angle the handle should be on, the vertical or the horizontal? I was initially thinking the vertical so I have good leverage throughout the bend. I'm a shorty at 5'3" so a lower angle of attack would do me well. Allows me to bend my knees and get my legs under it so I can apply my bigger power. Plus I think applying the torque to the vertical would keep the angle more in tact and not distort it at the attachment point.


What do you think? Am I on the right track?

Oh thinking about a bend in the center of the angle under high stress, do you think a couple gussets would be beneficial?
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Old 09-17-2011, 07:39 PM   #163
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Good catch. I still need to to put the big handle on there. The table is about 36" tall. I wasn't sure which leg of the angle the handle should be on, the vertical or the horizontal? I was initially thinking the vertical so I have good leverage throughout the bend. I'm a shorty at 5'3" so a lower angle of attack would do me well. Allows me to bend my knees and get my legs under it so I can apply my bigger power. Plus I think applying the torque to the vertical would keep the angle more in tact and not distort it at the attachment point.


What do you think? Am I on the right track?

Oh thinking about a bend in the center of the angle under high stress, do you think a couple gussets would be beneficial?
In the 'unbent" position, the handles should point down as you suggest. That was why I asked about bench height. Longer is better, (Archimedes lives!).

The gussets are of less issue, and won't really affect twisting. If that is a problem, and you cant get someone to help, boxing in the angle to a full triangle will do more. you don't even have to weld it full length, and inch or weld at each end and about every 8-10 inches or so should do fine.

Watch the angle as you work with it. the twist is a concern if all the leverage is from one side or the other. (So if bending something narrow, place it nearest the handle you are using)

The other possible issue is the center "bowing" while you bend. That is what the Flat "V" and bolt tensioner we discussed earlier is for. You can also stiffen it with a flat plate, if the flat plate in the same plane as the handles, it will resist the bowing effect.

Here is an industrial SM brake; notice the structures we already discussed. The big weights on the upper arms are s to counterbalance the weight of the bending arm structure, and are adjustable up and down so it can be "Tuned" for near static weight for the operator. In use an operator actually pushes on the weight, and not the handles found on smaller brakes. A small brake like yours should not need this unless you get steel crazy on the bending bar.

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Old 09-17-2011, 08:25 PM   #164
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Since it's only me out there working I'm leaning towards a handle shaped like this: \_/

I can grab the bar in the center and it will apply the force to both ends of the bending piece. It's a little more material for the handle, but that is what'll do the job right for me. I've got some 3/16" flat strap that I'll put to use if I pin point any twisting in the bender. Hopefully it won't be the case but, nothing that can't be adjusted.

I need to go look at a top tensioner support up close. I understand why its there but I need to go see the little details up close.


I appreciate the thinking on this
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:44 PM   #165
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you are very welcome. Whenever I see someone that really tries, and is willing to work at something, If I can help them with any knowledge I might have on the subject, I like to help them. After all, I learned from others often, or from resources others have documented.

Here is maybe a better pic of the tension adjuster. All it is doing is applying tension to the center and making it so the bending force is in effect, transferred to the corners.


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Old 09-17-2011, 11:07 PM   #166
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Built for an M&P 9c
Very nice
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:08 PM   #167
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The press brake looks so cool...but I have a question...can you stick the piece that you bent in it back in it and take a picture with it? I am SO trying to wrap my head around how you did it, but all I keep thinking is that the hinged part gets in the way of what your trying to bend. I'm sure it works fine, but I'd love to see an action shot.

Sorry...totally selfish posting/question
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:25 AM   #168
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Ok Dave just for you . You slide the sheet metal under the top piece of angle iron and clamp it down . The bottom piece of angle iron ( with the swoopy handle ) gets lifted up against the sheet metal and as it does it creates the bend in the metal. On these brakes as much as a 90* bend . There are brakes out there that will go past 90* but for simple drawers " boxes " 90* is all you need. Put your left hand pointing up and your right hand pointing out at 90* ( or as close as you can get ) . put your wrists together like this . Then bring your right hand up towards your laft " unbending your right wrist and you will see how these brakes work .

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Old 09-18-2011, 12:31 AM   #169
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Ok Dave just for you . You slide the sheet metal under the top piece of angle iron and clamp it down . The bottom piece of angle iron ( with the swoopy handle ) gets lifted up against the sheet metal and as it does it creates the bend in the metal. On these brakes as much as a 90* bend . There are brakes out there that will go past 90* but for simple drawers " boxes " 90* is all you need. Put your left hand pointing up and your right hand pointing out at 90* ( or as close as you can get ) . put your wrists together like this . Then bring your right hand up towards your laft " unbending your right wrist and you will see how these brakes work .

Rick
haha you're a jerk

Actually on wikipedia, they have a neat little animation of it. That's when the light bulb went off. But from the pictures, I couldn't tell where you slide the work piece in on her design. I know, totally my issue here

EDIT: after looking at her press brake, do you slide the work piece through that little slit where they hinge together?
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:45 AM   #170
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Ok look back at the first picture in post 152 . Theres an extra piece of angle iron laying on the table . Now look at the last picture in post 160 . That extra piece of angle iron gets bolted down ontop of the other one thats already bolted to the table . In the case of this brake once you have the metal where you want it between the two pieces bolted to the table . The third piece thst is hinged to the lower piece bolted to the tsble is lifted and makes your bend . I see some spring clamps in Girlngarages future as tightening and loosening those bolts to move the metal is goingto get old quick .


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Old 09-18-2011, 01:00 AM   #171
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Ok look back at the first picture in post 152 . Theres an extra piece of angle iron laying on the table . Now look at the last picture in post 160 . That extra piece of angle iron gets bolted down ontop of the other one thats already bolted to the table . In the case of this brake once you have the metal where you want it between the two pieces bolted to the table . The third piece thst is hinged to the lower piece bolted to the tsble is lifted and makes your bend . I see some spring clamps in Girlngarages future as tightening and loosening those bolts to move the metal is goingto get old quick .


Rick
A nice thought, but it won't work as spring clamps don't have the force required. Even vise grips might be iffy. The metal being bent has to be held vise tight. They use a cam clamp with long handles on "real" brakes, and those have adjusters for different thicknesses of metal.
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:03 AM   #172
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EDIT: after looking at her press brake, do you slide the work piece through that little slit where they hinge together?
Not exactly sure what you are describing but the metal goes in flat (horizontal between the two angles on the bench. The bolts then tighten down on them to clamp the metal. When she lifts on the hinged front angle, it swings the metal up and bends it in the process.
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:03 AM   #173
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I didnt really mean spring clamps so to speak as they wouldnt get things tight enough more like a spring under the bolt heads and permanent handles on the bolt heads so you didnt need a wrench to tighten or loosen them .


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Old 09-18-2011, 01:22 AM   #174
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I didnt really mean spring clamps so to speak as they wouldnt get things tight enough more like a spring under the bolt heads and permanent handles on the bolt heads so you didnt need a wrench to tighten or loosen them .


Rick
Now you are on the right track, only there is no place under the bolts to put a spring.

If there is space, a hole could be drilled outside the bolt and a "spring cup" welded in place capture a spring to do the job, or a larger spring cup could be made so the bolt cleared the ID of the spring and there was a hole in the cup for a longer bolt.
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:25 AM   #175
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I must be a big dummy haha. I understand the concept but I think everything 'clicks' when I see the picture.

Sorry GirlinAGarage for littering your thread with my lack of understanding
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:02 AM   #176
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you are very welcome. Whenever I see someone that really tries, and is willing to work at something, If I can help them with any knowledge I might have on the subject, I like to help them. After all, I learned from others often, or from resources others have documented.

Here is maybe a better pic of the tension adjuster. All it is doing is applying tension to the center and making it so the bending force is in effect, transferred to the corners.



Thank you. I guess since I used angle iron sitting on a flat instead of upside down V, I'm not certain where I need to place the support. Does it need to be on the flat? That sounds like a dumb question. But I drew a picture



Quote:
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The press brake looks so cool...but I have a question...can you stick the piece that you bent in it back in it and take a picture with it? I am SO trying to wrap my head around how you did it, but all I keep thinking is that the hinged part gets in the way of what your trying to bend. I'm sure it works fine, but I'd love to see an action shot.

Sorry...totally selfish posting/question
Sure!




Quote:
Originally Posted by rickairmedic View Post
Ok look back at the first picture in post 152 . Theres an extra piece of angle iron laying on the table . Now look at the last picture in post 160 . That extra piece of angle iron gets bolted down ontop of the other one thats already bolted to the table . In the case of this brake once you have the metal where you want it between the two pieces bolted to the table . The third piece thst is hinged to the lower piece bolted to the tsble is lifted and makes your bend . I see some spring clamps in Girlngarages future as tightening and loosening those bolts to move the metal is goingto get old quick .



Rick

Rick, it's scarey how much you can figure out how I'm thinking before I post I have been thinking of a method to lift the top plate as a whole to easily and quickly adjust the workpiece underneath. I did think about springs like on a hydraulic mounted brake but like Outlaw said there's not space underneath to do that. So I'm still throwing around "maybe I's" until something sticks as viable. There is room behind the top piece against the vertical leg. I wonder if it would work to use a piece of C channel with the C opening facing the vertical of the top. The Cs would be placed at the ends to correspond with the space already used by the hinges so it doesn't take away useful space). The bottom of the C I'd butt weld to the bottom plate. The top of the C I'd weld to the top plate. In the middle I'd put a guide and a spring like on a hyd. press. IF The top plate actuated up and down smooth and straight it would work. If it does not, no good.


"Hi my name is Simon, and I like to do drawrings."

I think I'm also going to install a second set of threaded bolts to the bottom plate and have them point up and go through the top plate. I can plug weld them to the bottom plate so they don't interfere with the table mount or flatness of the top plate. That way I only need one nut/ratchet on each end instead of a ratchet and a wrench to undo the top plate each time. I also need to modify the bolt holding the plates to the table. One option is to cut the bolt head off and plug weld the bolt in the existing hole, grind it smooth and I'm in business. If I'm creative enough I might be able to use one threaded bolt in each existing hole and not have to drill another set. Think think think think think...

It's likely I'll eventually move this to a stand of its own. Probably when I'm tired of tripping on it, or it taking up an edge of my table or smash my fingers one time to many as I move it around.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:18 AM   #177
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Girl, I think the spring mounted in back like that won't hold the weight of the angle up (Unless its and incredibly powerful spring...) you need a more centered lift. The weight of the angle will lean down and interfere with loading material.

Below is the bolt mounted spring cup I had in mind. some pipe or heavy tubing (check the black pipe nipple rack at the hardware store) a heavy duty washer (you can make your own using a metal cutting hole saw and a drill press. surely you can borrow the use of one?) and whatever piece of scrap the appropriate thickness.

You might also make do with a couple of washers stacked, but if they are galvanized, use some muratic acid (swimming pool acid) to remove the galvanize. (Welding galvanize produces poisonous/toxic gas, and grinding it is not much better...) the resulting remaining acid will be a mix of muratic, and zinc chloride. if you complete the "process", in the acid, (keep aiding galvanize (Parts) until the acid stops reacting) you get only zinc chloride, which is a great soldering acid for copper and brass. (learned this repairing radiators from an old friend)



No need to get fancy for the nut below. make two more of your "leveler" nuts, and use those, down below.

A pair of springs need to be found. I'm assuming your bolts are 1/2" and this is what I have to give as an example. you want the springs to be in tension in the "Clamp open" state, and I'd estimate about 3/8" compression or so should do it, using my springs as an example. If you can't find any locally, and your bolts are 1/2", I'll send you these if you want. They are out of my "spring bin" so won't cost you anything, as they didn't cost me anything either.



For the tension bar, your yellow markup is correct, but do lean it back to the top of the angle as well, and you can tack the tension bolt assy to the angle.



After looking at the other pic I posted, you can use a long bolt with the head cut off, a piece of pipe that is a slip fit to the bolt, threads, and a simple jam nut.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg tension bolt.jpg (9.3 KB, 2539 views)
File Type: jpg Tens for brake.jpg (48.3 KB, 2546 views)
File Type: jpg Clamp for brake.jpg (49.7 KB, 2547 views)
File Type: jpg springs.jpg (67.2 KB, 2544 views)
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:41 AM   #178
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Ok how about a set of these to take the place of the bolts . This is what I was thinking originaly.


http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...amp-36221.html



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Old 09-18-2011, 04:12 PM   #179
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Outlaw, the spring and cup looks like a viable idea. I'll go through my garage buckets in the coming days for usable pieces and see what I need to get this implemented. Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:35 PM   #180
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickairmedic View Post
Ok how about a set of these to take the place of the bolts . This is what I was thinking originaly.


http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...amp-36221.html


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As I mentioned before, I'm not sure you can get enough pressure with Vise Grips. The lever on those is in the 6" range; the cam clamps a commercial brake uses has 1-1/2 to 2 feet, and take some effort even then. GirlnAgarage mentioned using a ratchet wrench. Once those nuts are captured, and there is something lifting the top clamping bar, one to one and a half turns should provide enough clearance assuming a 1/2" bolt with coarse thread.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:57 PM   #181
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Worked on the handle today after running to Lowes for some stuff. I used 1/2" black pipe. Maybe should have gone to 3/4" but think this should work. I went with a 24" length as I just didn't want to reach all the way down to the floor.

Cut and welded up the center piece first. I mitered the corners to 45* and stuck them together. It was my first work with pipe so it was nice to get the corners fit like they did. Welding it was ok, I was hoping for a bit better but it'll work. I'll grind the welds all down once my other stuff from Amazon gets here

Next I welded the handle to the bender angle. This was tricky getting in there on the backhand. I think that's the term. But I kept the nozzle stuck in there was able to get the bead complete. They look better than the other two. I got a little undercutting on those. I didn't weld the threaded area because I didn't/couldn't clean out the oil coating in the threads. Didn't want to contaminate that weld so I left it out.




Next I'm working on the piece of strap to run the length of the bender. This will box the angle so it does not twist. Should be strong in conjunction with the four point attachment. I'll stitch weld this in place.

The two outside diagonals need to be mitered and welded into place. Just placed them to show where they'll go.



I had to run out in a hurry, I forgot the dog had a vet appointment. Lost an hour of good work time. But things are coming along.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg handle1.jpg (82.6 KB, 237 views)
File Type: jpg handle2.jpg (72.3 KB, 212 views)
File Type: jpg handle3.jpg (70.0 KB, 203 views)
File Type: jpg handle4.jpg (69.4 KB, 193 views)
File Type: jpg handle5.jpg (74.4 KB, 199 views)
File Type: jpg handle6.jpg (82.5 KB, 248 views)
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My Garage: Reorganization, it's like a renovation

Last edited by GirlnAgarage; 09-26-2011 at 08:55 AM. Reason: pics
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:45 PM   #182
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Default Re: Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

Looking good . On the threads just hit them with a little brake cleaner " outside " and then rinse them off and dry before bringing them inside to weld . Brake cleaner and welding dont mix thats why you want to rinse them off with water and dry before bringing them inside .



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