scooby074
Well-known member
Torque Test Channel tests them.
Best ratchet wrench? SO, Mac and Icon +more tested.
- Thread starter scooby074
- Start date
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Before watching, I placed my bet on Williams ratcheting mechanism. I was not disappointed.
The Tekton is the same as the Wen reversible ratcheting from Amazon. 7-22mm no skip (16 wrenches) for $108.
Less than $7 a wrench. Not the same easy warranty, but a great set nonetheless.
Less than $7 a wrench. Not the same easy warranty, but a great set nonetheless.
WEN 16-Piece Professional-Grade Reversible Ratcheting Metric Combination Wrench Set with Storage Pouch (WR162) - Amazon.com
WEN 16-Piece Professional-Grade Reversible Ratcheting Metric Combination Wrench Set with Storage Pouch (WR162) - Amazon.com
a.co
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I was surprised at Blackhawk's performance given that they were on the market before ratcheting wrenches were a thing. Happy to see Capri do well. Maybe now Capri will get more of the metric sets in stock 
I'd like to see TTC test Proto, I think this was one of TTC's better videos. 
I'd like to see TTC test Proto, I think this was one of TTC's better videos. Wamsutta
Well-known member
The best ratcheting wrench is the one that sounds the best and if I had to guess, that would probably be Snap-on.
I like the ICON long pattern but the standard open jaw version, used them daily in auto repair shop for probably close to 3 years and they doing great .
First couple years from product release the price was absolute bargain .
The snapon is nicely made and quite nice to use but price is crazy and if you don't have very easy warranty route it not particularly money well spent .
First couple years from product release the price was absolute bargain .
The snapon is nicely made and quite nice to use but price is crazy and if you don't have very easy warranty route it not particularly money well spent .
KnurledNut
Well-known member
There will always be anomalies in any test, but pushy needs some work. The entire test is really inconclusive because of poor methodology. Adding a simple stop block from the get go would have fixed the wrench sliding issue, but instead they keep letting it happen. Dumb. Yes, I expect more for free.
I don't know whether these reviews help... Whats the point of getting the strongest ratcheting wrench, unless youre an idiot and use these to break fasteners. Same with testing the strength of the open end. Why? It would be more useful to check tight fitment of the open end.
I mean as long as a minimum of strength is attained (so no chinesium ****), slimness and fitment is more important and a good ratcheting mechanism... And warranty (which is standard in US but not in Europe).
I mean as long as a minimum of strength is attained (so no chinesium ****), slimness and fitment is more important and a good ratcheting mechanism... And warranty (which is standard in US but not in Europe).
bwringer
Well-known member
The Mac is interesting; I have a set of Craftsman-branded "V Series" wrenches that are visually identical (now discontinued), and visually identical wrenches are sold under the Facom name. I guess I didn't know they were rebranded under a third name. If you buy a set, even the carrier is the same.
In any case, these made in Taiwan wrenches are nice, very damn nice, a real pleasure to use. I got mine on deep clearance at Lowes, and I'm glad to have them.
It's also interesting to see the extent that Snap-On prioritized small size and access over breaking strength; perhaps they can assume their customers aren't the sort of morons who will regularly use the ratcheting end to break loose rusty Ford suspension bolts?
One other piece of context we're missing is how much force your average 200 pound gorilla can actually apply; many of these wrenches were bending before the mechanism or even the open end failed, so unless you're using a hunka pipe or hammering on them, failure in real-world usage shouldn't really be an issue.
Nice to see the Capris do so well; I have several of their other tools and sets, and the brand consistently punches WAY above their price point.
In any case, these made in Taiwan wrenches are nice, very damn nice, a real pleasure to use. I got mine on deep clearance at Lowes, and I'm glad to have them.
It's also interesting to see the extent that Snap-On prioritized small size and access over breaking strength; perhaps they can assume their customers aren't the sort of morons who will regularly use the ratcheting end to break loose rusty Ford suspension bolts?
One other piece of context we're missing is how much force your average 200 pound gorilla can actually apply; many of these wrenches were bending before the mechanism or even the open end failed, so unless you're using a hunka pipe or hammering on them, failure in real-world usage shouldn't really be an issue.
Nice to see the Capris do so well; I have several of their other tools and sets, and the brand consistently punches WAY above their price point.
Noticed that too, they are the same as Facom wrenches in Europe.
And here they are the absolute best, I've laid my hands on every other ratcheting wrench on the market. For one, they are the slimmest. I buy sizes as I need them as they are quite pricey.
Actually 4 names; MAC, Craftsman, Facom and USAG. All are 4 brands are owned by Stanley Black & Decker.
Not sure of any technical differences between the brands, but they all look the same to me.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
There are differences between the versions. For example, in the picture above, you can see a small circlip in the ratcheting boxed end. This is Facom/USAG's version of a capstop system. Say you have a nut on a long threaded rod, the wrench won't slip past the nut unless you apply pressure. The circlip allows you still use a reverse grip on the wrench with a little applied pressure.
Another difference is that USAG offers anti slip open ends on their ratcheting wrenches. The Craftsman V series ratcheting wrenches don't offer the circlip capstop nor anti slip open ends.
YesIHaveAHammer
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- Jun 1, 2025
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- 780
Let me add some context to these numbers, as I did on another thread here about 1/4" ratchets. There, all contenders, would almost take a 70kg person standing on them.
I'll pick the Mac, just because I have the equivalent Facom.
17mm wrench tested, let's say someone stands on the far opposite end of it. Wrench length is 225mm, take off half the bolt head diameter (8mm), and 4mm for the body and ratchet mechanism, to give a lever length of 213mm.
Scored 118 Nm on the open end. That's a 56kg person before it slips.
Scored 393 Nm on the ratchet end. That's a 190kg person before the ratchet jams.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
I just noticed S-K now has Infar TW making their reversible ratcheting wrenches.
Kind of surprised they chose to outsource these.
Kind of surprised they chose to outsource these.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Oh and if TTC does round two, I'd like to see the B-series USA Proto.
Theronswanson
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- May 13, 2023
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SK really doesn't make anything in the US anymoreI just noticed S-K now has Infar TW making their reversible ratcheting wrenches.
Kind of surprised they chose to outsource these.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Yes, I was meaning more from the perspective that Greatstar has their own ratcheting wrench manufacturing capabilities.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Are the Duratec ratcheting wrenches also Infar sourced? It does seem odd that since most of the new Greatstar SK is rebadged Duratec in Green/Black trim that they would change suppliers.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
They are made by Yiyang Tools, China.Are the Duratec ratcheting wrenches also Infar sourced? It does seem odd that since most of the new Greatstar SK is rebadged Duratec in Green/Black trim that they would change suppliers.
http://ironduketools.com/company/index.html?pos=market
KnurledNut
Well-known member
They only tested reversible ones.
Ah, gotcha.
I would like to see how the Razor wrenches hold up.
Different ratchet mechanisms technically vs reversible, but it will be interesting to see how they compare in testing to thicker wrenches like we saw in the reversible video.
Regardless, can't wait to use my set. I was going to work on the car today, but it's already passed 90* before 8am and hit a high of at least 113* by mid-day... Maybe next weekend?
+1 on the Facom, they might not win on pushy but they a win in real world use of fit function and finish ...Noticed that too, they are the same as Facom wrenches in Europe.
And here they are the absolute best, I've laid my hands on every other ratcheting wrench on the market. For one, they are the slimmest. I buy sizes as I need them as they are quite pricey.
Sets were quite cheap from UK few years back but since covid prices escalated badly ...
Hohn
Well-known member
This was what stood out to me also. To achieve the 100% ASME point on this test would require over 200# of force acting at 250mm from the fastener (for reference the SO is 277mm total length).
I suppose there are people with such incredibly tough hands that the can withstand 200# of force on their hand from a skinny wrench handle. I am absolutely not one of them, even with gloves.
Once you get past the absurd brute strength aspect, what's left? Hmm, package size? Low backdrag? Smoothness?
Gee, which brand has the smallest head, and lightest, smoothest mechanism?
It's almost as if SO designs tools for people who know not to put a 4ft cheater on a 17mm ratcheting wrench.
Brute strength is so rarely relevant to a particular task that it's absurd to weight it as heavily as all the testing videos and guy-to-guy chatter does.
What matters every time that tool touches a fastener, though, is how well it fits the fastener, how well it fits the available space, and can it do the job. Give me the smaller, weaker head every time. I own breaker bars. And there's a reason I LOVE my "low profile" ratchets that use a 3/8 anvil on a 1/4 drive body. THEY FIT AND THEY WORK. Are they as strong? No. Are they strong enough? Always.
Spot the guy who doesn't live in the rust belt.
The point of a strong wrench is you don't break it. That doesn't matter if that's a conventional box end, open end, ratcheting, Saltus, whatever. No one wants to use more tools than necessary. If you can't do the job with X, but can with Y, then you should probably buy Y.
neophyte
Well-known member
The whole point of this style (ie Gearwrench style), of modern ratcheting wrenches, is that the ratcheting box end is “as strong as a regular box end wrench”.
That was literally the design intention of the “modern” wrench, over the older sheet metal design made by Stride/Imperial.
I bought a set of ratcheting combination wrenches from my snap on guy in 2004, at the same time as a couple other guys in the shop. (It must have been in the sale flyer or some other promotion.) Someone asked if they were supposed to use them for breaking stuff loose. Snappy said "If I said 'No', would it stop you?". I've used them the same way I use a regular combination wrench for 20 years, anywhere they fit. I wore the ratchet out in the 10, and I spread the open end of another[1], but I've never broken the ratchet end. Broke lots of bolts, though.
[1] I don't think putting a pipe over it, and then hitting the pipe with a hammer had anything to do with that, though.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
I agree on the price for Icon. They were great at first, but the price kept creeping up and the cost benefit wasn't as good as it had been. With the right coupons or shopping open box stuff it's not too painful, but everyday price is nothing to get excited about.
Yup. Here in Greece the underside of 20 year old cars looks like a 1 year old American rustbelt car.
Exactly
Is the best ratcheting wrench the one that gets the job done? I bought a set of hyper tough flex head ratcheting wrenches at a garage sale a year ago for $7.00. Haven’t broken one yet. The 14mm gets used on break jobs all the time to remove caliper pin bolts.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I actually saw one of those snap ons broken like that in real life. Can't image what had to be done with it.
I had a bad 10mm out of the box but the slim ring on those are fabulous. I break stuff free with them just like I break things free with a ratchet.
I have a set of Gearwrench XLs and have beat the hell out of them with barely any issues over 10 years. Whatever gets the job done is always a good option.
Gangly
Well-known member
I have the Milwaukee Flex Head ratchet wrenches, and they get put through the ringer. I've tried the Craftsman and wasn't impressed, but I haven't tried the others so I can't really add anything to the conversation other than the Milwaukee flex head ratchet wrenches are tough as nails and you can put A LOT of "ooomph" on them without having to worry.
The failure tests are certainly fun to watch and have some value, but backdrag is much more important, IMO, than showing that you need to weigh 500 lbs, and not 400 lbs, to stomp on something to break it.
Saying that, FFS TTC, stop with the ASME comparison torque failure rating being the primary failure test unit and giving a percent. Yes, I can do the math, but just say failure was at X lbf-ft as a primary value, and this is Y% of the ASME value as a secondary if you want to include that.
People need to have an easy to relate to number that directly shows them that, "Oh, I'd need to weigh 500 lbs to break this, so this failure value isn't that important, and I should focus on other parameters...." instead of, "I need to get out the calculator and do two conversions to figure out WTF torque this failed at". Because people want to primarily know the failure torque as the primary unit.
Saying that, FFS TTC, stop with the ASME comparison torque failure rating being the primary failure test unit and giving a percent. Yes, I can do the math, but just say failure was at X lbf-ft as a primary value, and this is Y% of the ASME value as a secondary if you want to include that.
People need to have an easy to relate to number that directly shows them that, "Oh, I'd need to weigh 500 lbs to break this, so this failure value isn't that important, and I should focus on other parameters...." instead of, "I need to get out the calculator and do two conversions to figure out WTF torque this failed at". Because people want to primarily know the failure torque as the primary unit.
I see very little value in destroying a tool. How many people can destroy a ratcheting wrench in their hand? People are using the wrong tool if they have to put a cheater on a tool to get the job done. There are tools for breaking fasteners loose. I have a Pittsburgh ratchet I’ve had for years, it happens to be my favorite ratchet. I don’t use a cheater on it. Tool companies make breaker bars for a reason.
Not this again…
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Breaker bars and fixed wrenches don't fit in a lot of places. Just buy longer ratchets and ratcheting wrenches. If the only way to hold the fastener from spinning is clocking a ratcheting wrench one tooth at a time until it fits, so be it. Sometimes the tools take one for the team. I've had enough cuts, bruises, and calloused hands to have taken my fair share - it's the nature of the beast sometimes.
I'm one to prefer a fixed tool, if I can use it. Isn't always possible.
Hohn
Well-known member
Did the tool get the job done? If so, it was the proper tool for the job.
Did it break something or itself? It was the improper tool for the job.
Did it break something or itself? It was the improper tool for the job.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
I thought Gearbox was a trademarked Gearwrench name. I wonder if they are sourcing those from ATG. Thanks for the pic. Good comparison.