Eklind Is Closing Its IL Plant

[KnurledNut]

What did snap on source from elkind?

Check out their hex and torx keys and folders. It's pretty obvious. They source from Bondhus too.

 

[neophyte]

Eklind has long been a widely-stocked brick and mortar item, made in America, and sold at a very affordable price.

Maybe Snap-on will start manufacturing the tools they were sourcing from Eklind.

One of the better local hardware stores in Philly has a full Eklind display, or they used to.

 

[Hakeem]

Anyways, as a fellow Chicagoan this news was like a punch to the gut. I’ve driven on 294 past that factory so many times, and each time i marveled at the thought that the tools I used were entirely made in that building, so close to home. Same feeling I get with AJ manufacturing & Matco ratchets.

I’m guessing casual hex key users buy the cheapest foreign option, tradesmen buy Klein or Milwaukee, and heavy users like machinists buy higher end hex keys like Wera or some other boutique brand.

Check out their hex and torx keys and folders. It's pretty obvious. They source from Bondhus too.

The black finished hex keys look like Bondhus/Eklind, right down to the holders:




Are their zinc finished hex keys are made in house ? I’d assume so, based off the resemblance to their hex bit sockets

 

[American Locomotive]

So is the company dead, off-shoring everything, downsizing?

 

[drokihazan]

Do we know if Snap-On sourced the Williams US made L key sets from Eklind or from Bahco? I've used those for years and they've been great

 

[Ohio Andy]

For mechanical stuff, I’ll take SAE & metric sets to the fastener and see which fits best. Once I know the size, I usually switch to a bit socket + ratchet. L keys get the job done but I don’t really like using them for some strange reason

I did exactly that last week.... But I switched to a screwdriver style with a ball head.

I used to use L keys most of the time. Now I use them far less often.

 

[KnurledNut]

Are their zinc finished hex keys are made in house ? I’d assume so, based off the resemblance to their hex bit sockets

I have the metric set. I believe the keys are Eklind. Mine have the signature undressed shear cut ends, except for the 12mm which was lathe finished.
It came in a metal case that I think is made in Germany. It's unique in that it folds and stands up for easy access to the keys.

These are all different versions of Snap-on:
Bondhus Prohold ball end
Bondhus Stubby short arm ball end
Long zinc plated, silver for SAE
Long zinc plated, gold for MM
Short pattern zinc plated

Do we know if Snap-On sourced the Williams US made L key sets from Eklind or from Bahco? I've used those for years and they've been great

Eklind

 

[whateg01]

It's as if it was 1900 and interchangeable parts hadn't been popularized yet.

One of my best friends retired from aircraft manufacturing. It's amazing to me how much "hand fitting" they had to do to build run of the mill planes. His job the last several years was to fly to the company's various factories and show them how to make parts fit or how to make parts that fit. When I hear aerospace quality, I laugh. The tech, precision, and accuracy that goes into a turbine engine does not go into the rest of the plane

 

[whateg01]

For handyman type stuff, the fold out sets are great as they don’t get lost and access usually isn’t an issue.

For mechanical stuff, I’ll take SAE & metric sets to the fastener and see which fits best. Once I know the size, I usually switch to a bit socket + ratchet. L keys get the job done but I don’t really like using them for some strange reason

I despise the fold out sets. I know they are good for travel since there's no little pieces to lose, but they are awful to use.

 

[KnurledNut]

I despise the fold out sets. I know they are good for travel since there's no little pieces to lose, but they are awful to use.

I believe Eklind makes the one for Snap-on that is a combination of torx and hex sizes for Harley Davidson. An application that makes sense since its motorcycle kit friendly and you'll probably be needing it.

 

[RoninB4]

What did snap on source from elkind?

-While I was a die maker there in the mid 90's the fold-up sets for SO were sourced from Eklind. I changed the stamp for several brands sourced from Eklind. It's a rather common practice in manufacturing, it's sometimes called "house branding". The "L" keys for others used to have an "ET" stamped on the body instead of the full Eklind Tool logo. Don't know what they did after I left but I suspect that remained.

 

[cody1325]

I'm curious all you hex key users, what do you grab first?

An L, fold out set of keys , regular screwdriver shape, T shape, or bits?

For portability (like a set to carry on a bicycle ) I'll probably grab fold out set of keys. If portability is my concern more often than not. If I'm around my tools, I probably just grab a screwdriver shape. I have a couple T handle sizes when I know I'm going to want more torque.

That said, if I'm pulling tools to the work and I don't really know I'm going to need. I grab one of those big bit sets I put together that has ball hacks and regular hacks and then a couple adapters and allowed. We can get links and then I can throw it in either one of my ratcheting screwdrivers or use a battery powered driver.

I think almost all of my hex drivers that are not bits are bondhus.

Sorry to see them close though

3D printer is a fairly good chunk of the times in a month I need hex keys--I have a Hyper Tough version of the Hoto precision screwdriver set I use for tiny stuff, it included. When I can't find those, the L-keys Bambu supplied.

Fold-ups for most larger stuff. In fact, I had to use my old Powr-Kraft reciprocating saw recently, and had to use an Eklind set to change out the blade from wood to metal (and this one takes two screws).

But, bits in my bit drivers with storage in the handle are starting to take over.

 

[Aaron_W]

Well I did my part, but I'm one guy and I only need so many hex keys.

 

[Gmonkee]

At one point I had a dozen or so folders by Eklind. The only market I had to move them in was heavy equipment mechanics. They were not metric sizes.

I still have the 3/8" down big folder and bought Autozone ball tip in SAE and metric because it gets into spaces better.
A long time has passed and those AZ folders still haven't failed. I barely use them anymore retired but they are proven.
Torx, those I used to death in GM cars and the lessor ones wore faster. A Chesko torx folder had been in my kit since 2007 and still fits like new. Despite me using them in hex bolts that were damaged among other " git er dun" abuses.


Why folders? Bulky, heavy compared but in a mobile bag I never lost any. The only loose key i carried was a 9mm square for Renault drain plugs. That was a rusty old whatnot I ground to a square point myself. Nobody sold them.

 

[William Payne]

Can't say I have heard of this brand. I like my Bondhus, though they always annoyed me not selling a long series. We used allen keys all the time in the tool and die shop.

Never had any issues. I broke a few but that was because I was swinging on them on something way too tight. So I would just shrug my shoulders, say "it had a good life" and would buy another one. Have never had an issue with replacing tools that broke after giving me many years of good use.

 

[ecotec]

What did snap on source from elkind?

Snap-on folding Allen and Torx sets and Blue Point L-keys for staters. There were probably a few other things.

 

[Zewnten]

Check out their hex and torx keys and folders. It's pretty obvious. They source from Bondhus too.

All I own or have looked at are the L wrenches and bit sockets, which are clearly Bondhus. Never had interest in the folder sets but looking at th catalog yeah they're probably elkind.

 

[Gmonkee]

Eklind, Chesco, cheap import and Wilson from AutoZone.The dimple on Eklind is deeper than the Chesco. That tells me maybe not a rebrand, but another maker. The cheap import is similar but thinner tin and less dimensions.

The Wilson loosen up a lot but won't break. Kind of a problem but not fatal.

 

[Gmonkee]

Torx, my little helper as a mechanic. The Chesco is old and well used. The cheapo is security Torx and less used but so great in that one situation.

The yellow is a common import here and affordable. This one is new, unused. I always had a spare like this for temporary misplacement or a loaner. I have worn several of these to where I had to grind them back over time. They are inexpensive so it was cheap insurance to a finish.
I would give away the old ones to frequent borrowers.

That Chesco has barely worn in 20 years., I don't dare test the cheapos. The yellow were expendable. Perfect for infrequent use but industrial, no.

 

[neophyte]

-While I was a die maker there in the mid 90's the fold-up sets for SO were sourced from Eklind. I changed the stamp for several brands sourced from Eklind. It's a rather common practice in manufacturing, it's sometimes called "house branding". The "L" keys for others used to have an "ET" stamped on the body instead of the full Eklind Tool logo. Don't know what they did after I left but I suspect that remained.

Did Eklind produce keys for Chesco? Or might that have been one of the competitors?

 

[whateg01]

. The cheap import is similar but thinner tin and less dimensions.

Doubtful it's plated in tin.

 

[Gmonkee]

Did Eklind produce keys for Chesco? Or might that have been one of the competitors?

Look at the side profile of the handle. 90 degree on Eklind, curved on Chesco. The yellow imports copy Eklind.
Probably competition.

 

[Gmonkee]

Doubtful it's plated in tin.

That's thin metal, like very thin for this tool. I call it tin as in tin can thick.

 

[JerseyBoatBuilder]

-While I was a die maker there in the mid 90's the fold-up sets for SO were sourced from Eklind. I changed the stamp for several brands sourced from Eklind. It's a rather common practice in manufacturing, it's sometimes called "house branding". The "L" keys for others used to have an "ET" stamped on the body instead of the full Eklind Tool logo. Don't know what they did after I left but I suspect that remained.

Do you know if they made the socket bits for the gold Hd hex and torx bit sockets?

 

[Firebrick43]

Can't say I have heard of this brand. I like my Bondhus, though they always annoyed me not selling a long series. We used allen keys all the time in the tool and die shop.

Never had any issues. I broke a few but that was because I was swinging on them on something way too tight. So I would just shrug my shoulders, say "it had a good life" and would buy another one. Have never had an issue with replacing tools that broke after giving me many years of good use.

Machine and weld up some allen cheaters. I always cut the tube at 30 degrees for the end but some do it a little steeper. Makes using keys a lot more comfortable, especially tight cap screws when they break free, your hands wont smart from it. I made them out of 3/8" tubing for smaller keys and 1/2". Some guys made them from larger tube as well but I never had issues getting a 1/2" drive or 3/4" drive ratchet in the places needed for the large 17mm and 19mm allen cap screws. The smaller sizes many times you couldn't get a ratchet head into place especially around ball screw nuts so the cheaters helped tremendously

 

[whateg01]

Machine and weld up some allen cheaters. I always cut the tube at 30 degrees for the end but some do it a little steeper. Makes using keys a lot more comfortable, especially tight cap screws when they break free, your hands wont smart from it. I made them out of 3/8" tubing for smaller keys and 1/2". Some guys made them from larger tube as well but I never had issues getting a 1/2" drive or 3/4" drive ratchet in the places needed for the large 17mm and 19mm allen cap screws. The smaller sizes many times you couldn't get a ratchet head into place especially around ball screw nuts so the cheaters helped tremendously

I just use whatever box and wrenches handy. A cheater pipe would feel nicer on the hand and easier to set up, but I never want to go get another tool.

 

[RoninB4]

Did Eklind produce keys for Chesco? Or might that have been one of the competitors?

-I don't recall seeing a Chesco stamp but that doesn't mean they didn't before or after I left. The Eklind made hex keys had a somewhat distinctive black(ish) color from heat treating that was purposely done (so I was told) to provide a visual difference from the other brands.

 

[RoninB4]

Do you know if they made the socket bits for the gold Hd hex and torx bit sockets?

-Photos help so I know what you're referring to.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Can't say I have heard of this brand. I like my Bondhus, though they always annoyed me not selling a long series.

They have a 12" long set, albeit only in the SAE sizes.

 

[William Payne]

They have a 12" long set, albeit only in the SAE sizes.

Thanks! Looking at their website they do in fact have long versions. I have always used the L shape ball end sets. I could have sworn they never used to but it makes my day knowing they do have them.

 

[William Payne]

Machine and weld up some allen cheaters. I always cut the tube at 30 degrees for the end but some do it a little steeper. Makes using keys a lot more comfortable, especially tight cap screws when they break free, your hands wont smart from it. I made them out of 3/8" tubing for smaller keys and 1/2". Some guys made them from larger tube as well but I never had issues getting a 1/2" drive or 3/4" drive ratchet in the places needed for the large 17mm and 19mm allen cap screws. The smaller sizes many times you couldn't get a ratchet head into place especially around ball screw nuts so the cheaters helped tremendously

We made our own T Handles like that for getting into deep areas. Out of curiosity what software are you using?

 

[Firebrick43]

We made our own T Handles like that for getting into deep areas. Out of curiosity what software are you using?

I use fusion 360 but that is just an internet image that I found so I didn't have to go out to the shop and dig mine out.

 

[William Payne]

I use fusion 360 but that is just an internet image that I found so I didn't have to go out to the shop and dig mine out.

Ah ok. Thanks.

 

[Farmall450]

Where is (was) their market?

I just bought 2 new sets from Menards on sale a few months ago. They're hardly any more expensive than HF, and way better.

 

[tarbellb]

huh..... the guys that made the most basic *** hex keys with zero innovation for the last 3 decades went out of business????

Whaaaaaa?

 

[William Payne]

I just wish people would go after the right people when these things happen. Every man and his dogs will go after china and foreign countries. But nobody goes after the domestic corporate executives and shareholders. I’ll never understand that.

Its like when businesses get sold and people blame the buyer. Ummm, someone had to be selling for someone to buy. Nobody goes after the seller, but are happy to attack the buyer.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Has this company essentially been run down by the management, or just didn't have the scale to afford investment?

Looking at the product range and website, I don't get the impression they planned to be here tomorrow.

Contrast with Bondhus who have a much wider range (e.g. bit sockets) and many innovations (e.g. holding function, various finishes). There's stuff here for all kinds of buyers. They're well known and readily available here in Europe too, unlike Eklind.

 

[RoninB4]

I believe the keys are Eklind. Mine have the signature undressed shear cut ends, except for the 12mm which was lathe finished.

-The "signature undressed shear cut ends" are not always indicative of Eklind. IIRC there were/are a few other brands that had shear cut ends. It's only in the last two decades or so that makers began to finish the ends for the sake of visual appeal that the marketing dept. likely advocated. The appearance of the end is due to the type of steel the hex key is made from, how sharp both top/bottom are in the parting station, and the die clearance used. Even the timing of the die, stripper and spring preload can make a difference in clean the end looks. Just FYI, not a critique or disagreement with your evaluation.

 

[RoninB4]

The dimple on Eklind is deeper than the Chesco. That tells me maybe not a rebrand, but another maker.

-Not necessarily, the "dimple" is a die component that can be easily changed/replaced during routine die maintenance. Dimple punch gets re-made or the set height is changed for various reasons. Furthermore, the two examples you've used are completely different handles made with completely different dies, even the profile of the dimple is different. You cannot scale down one for another and expect them to be identical for several reasons. You have a good eye for detail but a lack of knowledge with how stamping dies are designed/constructed.

 

[RoninB4]

Look at the side profile of the handle. 90 degree on Eklind, curved on Chesco. The yellow imports copy Eklind.
Probably competition.

-If you're referring to the bend radius of the sides that doesn't mean what you're suggesting it does.